ptjones

This screws into the block and heats up the coolant, this is the actual FORD Part. I'm working on enlarging the pictures and will post them when I figure it out. First I don't recommend doing this because it is almost impossible to do. Instead I would attach another Oil Pan Heater to the back side of the Block and can be done in 15-20min. instead of a whole day! I wasn't sure I would get it done at all. 1. Removed lower ICE cover.(8 star head screws) 2. Removed right half shaft skid plate (3 bolts) 3. Removed exhaust manifold brace (4 bolts) 4. Removed 14mm allen socket freeze plug with 3/8" to 1/2" adapter where 1/2" side is ground to fit freeze plug. I could loan this out if someone is crazy enough to try this. 5. Install Freeze Plug Block Heater, this is very hard to do for the lack of space between Exhaust Manifold and Block. I tried to loosen Exhaust Manifold but that wasn't going to happen. Check to make sure it works. 6. Install Exhaust Manifold Brace. 7. Install right half shaft skid plate. 8. Pore Coolant back into radiator reservoir, be careful not to pore in to fast and over flow. 9. Check for leaks. 10. Install lower ICE Cover. :) Paul

There are at least a couple dozen CMAX's and dozen FFH that I know of that use Grill Covers and probably many more that don't Post on these Forums, not just me. FORD could have done much better job if they had the money to spend, cars are always compromises, price vs features. :) Paul

So 99% of the time I don't even think about Grill Covers and the other 1% it comes up when I have long uphill grades. A lot of people would never even have to think about this, because where they drive. FORD could have made an aerodynamic Grill Shutter system that closed tightly that would have solved the ICE Temp problem. IMO I think it is crazy not to have Grill Covers for improved MPG's and quicker heat up times in the winter. :) Paul

I will let you know what the right way is when I get finished. Still work in progress. LOL :) Paul

fbov "I check coolant temp in MyView, and with full grill blocks, have yet to see it above the middle (presumed thermostat setting). but then I don't drive up mountains in the desert in summertime" Thermostat is fully open at 202*F, but I have to go through my Grill Cover Posts to find the correlation SmartGauge Temp and actual temps. If I remember right SG temp doesn't come off middle area until 226*F and comes up with overheating message at 247*F. Coolant boils at 262*F at these pressures. Operating temps are 202-212*F and I think you are fine to 230*F at which point I would remove lower Grill Cover. IMO :) Paul

Last I heard was that it didn't happen, I believe someone checked Part#'s and they hadn't changed. I checked out FORDPARTS.com and all 2013-15 have the same Part# 7000 for the transmission. :) Paul

Keep us Posted. :) Paul

It would appear that FORD built the cooling system for worst case scenario and they didn't have the money to do a perfect job. It would seem most people over think the overheating problem, because the ICE Smart Gauge will tell you if there is a problem. I have been driving for 2 years with the Grill Covers on all time with no problems. Plus there is a temp gauge in MyView if that will make you feel better, as I have said before the only time you need to remove the lower cover is on long uphill climbs. The Middle stays on all the time. For you I would close off all Grill openings to conserve heat. I don't know how far you are driving for each trip you make, but Grill Covers and Oil Pan Heater(if can plug it in) make a big difference during the Winter. I'm currently installing FORD ICE block Heater to improve MPG's more. IMO :) Paul

I'm in the process of installing a FORD ICE Block Heater and have got to the point of screwing in the block heater. I will try to take pics to try to show how to do it. The steps required are first remove ICE lower cover. Remove three bolts from brace under exhaust system and remove. Make 14mm allen socket for removing Freeze Plug Remove freeze plug, big mess coolant draining out of block. :sad: Loosen 7 nuts on exhaust manifold and remove two nuts from catalytic converter, tilt manifold up to make more room to Screw in ICE Block Heater and attach power cord. Reinstall all parts and fill coolant back in reservoir. :) Paul

CR doesn't have a very good rep with this forum. I suppose we could average several Magazines numbers and get a more accurate number. Hydrid Energi Edmunds 8.1sec 7.8sec Car & Driver 7.9sec Motor trend 8.2sec 8.5sec Motor Week 8.5sec Adding these numbers with CR you get 8.15sec Hybrid and 8.22sec Energi, pretty much a tie. :) Paul

Maybe it is because you are caring around extra 300lbs you think? Looking at the reviews it looks like NRG is a .5sec. slower than Hybrid. All I know my CMAX gets up to speed very quickly when you stomp on the gas and the tires start to break loose at the start. :shift: :) Paul

kaptnk228 you already posted this info in other dead battery Threads. You seem to be the only person to have this happen too and a few thousand have visited this Forum. As you have mentioned before and as I have done, got a plugin voltmeter for $5 so I can monitor 12v battery. It sounds like your FORD Dealer fixed your car so I don't know why you are still complaining about it. Also you putting out miss information, My battery voltage is rarely above 12v, sometimes below 12v and it has started for 2yrs/77kmi. without a problem. We just don't know how low it can be and still work. When the car is on it reads 14.7v. The CMAX has temp. gauge in MyVeiw . :) Paul

I looked up the 0-60 time for CMAX and Passat TDI and the CMAX was 7.8 vs Passat 8.2 sec. and given the HWY MPG#'s the CMAX is still cheaper to operate. Gas is about 15% cheaper than Diesel. IMO :) Paul

I'm talking about tank MPG#s and I don't use A/C or Heater unless I have too (better half in the car).LOL I'm amassed you get the mpg's you do, good job! BTW I have gotten 49.9mpg for 100+miles going 80mph(west Texas) drafting some and 20-30mph tailwind, don't think it means much, but it was fun while it lasted. :yahoo: :) Paul

Welcome into the CMAX Owners Family. :yahoo: Paul

Can you use a Oil Pan Heater? In your cold situation I would close off all the openings at the front of your CMAX. IMO :) Paul

I edited my Post. TDI owners are claiming 47mpg and Husker4theSpurs was thinking Diesels. I'm getting around 47mpg at 70mph with my aeromodded CMAX and probably get 43-42mpg at 80mph. I only go 80mph if the speed limit is 80mph and I have a drafting partner. For the gas money CMAX does as good as TDI HWY. :shift: :) Paul

That is good to know that computers won't run at 7.7volts, it would have been interesting to know if you could jump start it with charger. I was able to do this the only time my battery was from me leaving ACC on , but I didn't check the voltage of the battery. My small additional battery solution might have saved the day.IMO :) Paul

Because it uses the hot coolant to heat the heater core to harm up the car. Once the ICE is harm it can run without the ICE running for short time. It is a real MPG killer. Use seat heaters instead, them don't hurt MPG's much. That is why Block and Oil Pan Heaters really help MPG's on short trips. Also Grill Covers allow the ICE to harm up quicker also improving MPG's. :) Paul

Hybrids aren't designed for high speed driving and you would be better off with a WV Jetta TDI, on the down side CMAX gets 10-15mpg better in the city. BTW you can increase 2-4mpg by adding Grill Covers and Oil Pan Heater to CMAX. BTW if you have 50K miles and haven't had a battery problem you probably aren't going too. I have 77.6K miles and no battery problems. Keep in mind very few people have battery problems percentage wise. IMO :) Paul

I don't think so or you would have heard about it from other people. What model do you have, SE or SEL and do you have a jumper battery? When was it built? My SYNC system did do a system maintenance today which I was surprised to see. :) Paul

I took cover off battery compartment and there is no difference any voltages measured anywhere with a voltmeter. I measured across the batt. terminals, batt. ground to car and power point. With lights shutting down I got a high of 12.2v and with lights on and door open 11.8v. Obviously there is no problem, but it isn't what you expect. I wonder about the size of the 12v battery? :) Paul

Maybe I should go ahead and get the one they have then. Here are the Pics: :) Paul