mtb9153

Any lower and you run into problems with the louvers if using the 30 degree angle product like mine which I don't suggest. A flat LED light unit of any number of LED's is much more desirable and offers better mounting locations. I like your choice of location for sure but wasn't possible with the unit I bought. I've seen others modify a photo I have posted, wonder how it is done? What software?

I started a new thread because I thought since the project was complete that a new subject title was in order. I'm sorry I just made things harder to follow, honestly I didn't think there would be much interest in what I was doing. If anyone is considering doing this? Just be sure to not buy what I did, the 30 degree angle models which require mounting the lights at 30 degree's to allow the LEDS to be seen at their brightest. The straight on models will mount much better in the openings of the upper grille.

Titanium? Are you saying this is coming to CMax in the future?

Rachel, Sonic I love that place. Enjoy my friend.

DRL daylight pic

REALLY, thanks for sharing, there is always something new to learn about iPhone5

I'm sorry I've done it again multiple threads about the same thing, forgive me I'm human

bought the whole kit from Tire Rack Hella www.hella.com $127 and some change

Finished the installation with modification required to the top center grille opening, had to enlarged the openings to allow LED's to shine through from behind the grille. Finally got the engine compartment fusebox open, but not without breaking the poorly designed and troublesome latch. Even so the cover stays on securely and it allot easier to remove as a result. I found a wire to tap into to supply power only when the start button is on. DRL's stay on with headlights on or off. Sweet! and now I'm being seen better in the daytime. In my opinion this should be a requirement in the US for all new cars, not left at the manufacturer's discretion. Sorry the picture is over exposed, my iPhone couldn't deal with the ultra brightness of the LED's. I will take some daytime pics tomorrow. The amber lights on either side are the factory running lights. I took this picture with the headlight switch set to turn off the headlights.

Yes I agree I think Ford is doing an exceptional job supporting the CMax and it's owners the way they have in it's first year of production. Bugs are expected in a new model especially one as high tech as this. Frankly I'm thrilled that in the first year of ownership, Maxus as not had to spend the night once at the dealership. That is many times better than I could say for my other cars including GM, Dodge/Plymouth, Datsun (Nissan) AMC. They all spent several days and weeks at the dealership some with major drivetrain issues/repairs

Good thoughts Jus, I second the motion :judge:

I think he has added an accessory and that was the quickest way to get 12VDC

Jus according to what Suzanne told me those little wings or what ever you want to call them on the tail lights are aerodynamic attempts Ford added to smooth out the air flow off the rear end. Whether they work is anyone's guess? I'm routing for you to pocket the $5, sorry wifey.

Found it but what a BI**H that is to loosen and get the cover off. Could Ford make it any harder?

OMG! TMI, that description was certainly more than I bargained for, but thanks.

Can I connect the red wire coming from a 3amp fuse block on my DRLs to a power connection inside the under hood fuse box in my engine compartment? If so how do I remove the cover to the fuse box?

I have replaced the factory lug nuts with racing style longer red anodized nuts with open ends allowing you to see the end of the threaded stud inside the nut. Why you might ask? For looks mostly, they look cool in my opinion. I have told my dealership when they to the visual inspection of the tires and brakes, too not re-torque the nuts with an air wrench because the manufacturer of these nuts says not to air torque them. But the dealer still has done it which pisses me off. I recently bought new racing style nuts with a hard red anodize coating so they don't fade from the sun like my cheaper first set did. The old ones were on so hard that I thought I'd never break them loose because they got galled up in the aluminum by over torquing them. So I applied bearing grease to minimize this in the future.

Ok I got the passenger side DRL installed but not yet wired. I was able to fabricate a shelf for the Hella 30 series to mount at the required 30degree angle yet still behind the upper grille. It required cutting up my front grille to enlarge the factory opening on either side of the Ford Blue Oval to allow the to allow the light to be seen through the grille opening since it is mounted behind the grille. There still is a black plastic support standing vertically in front of a portion of the DRL lens which might mess up the light beam once they are turned on. I won't know how much this might affect the overall look until I can wired them and turn them on. This support is a body panel which is sandwiched between the front bumper facia and the radiator shutter assembly. I could cut out the support bracket and I think it would not affect the integrity of the front facia. But right now that is more customizing which can't be reversed without buying a whole new front facia assembly at great cost.

I'm not looking for tires for awhile I hope but when I do, I'm going back with the factory tires from Michelin. I looked at them on Tire Rack and so far they are wearing well and I have no qualms with getting them again as my first replacement tire set. Realistically getting wider or more performance rated tire seems a waste cost wise on a car I will never use them on. Don't see myself ever getting enough speed up to warrant a Z-rated tire. I like the lower profile and more aggressive looking tread design on a Z-rated tire, but feel the extra cost to get them would be a waste on a CMax.

Very nice CG picture of the headlight assembly removal

I was able to pull my drivers housing out. It wasn't easy but the only way I found how to do it was by removing of course the two Torx screws at either end. Plus I removed the Torx screw on the end of the drivers side which holds down the long black plastic panel which contains the air vent openings for fresh air intake to the cabin. The cowling at the base of the windshield in other words. Once that screw was removed while wiggling the headlamp housing and a strong upward tug I was able to remove it with out first disconnecting the wiring harness. There was enough play in the harness to pull up while twisting the housing so I could clearly see the wiring harness and release the locking pin which holds it in place to the Headlamp. One word of caution when reinstalling. I would cover the edges of the clear plastic lens with tape since I scratched my lens on the edge of the fender while trying to reposition it. Have fun...

I was at PepBoys last week and noticed they are now stocking Plasti-Dip spray cans in black, white, also white pearlizer top coat. Also the new Blaze fluorescent colors in hot pink, blue, green. Just wanted to share if anyone is considering using this product on their wheels or elsewhere like I have done. Price might be a bit cheaper than ordering directly from www.dipyourcar.com since there's no shipping charges. Also saw it at AutoZone, both told me it was a new item they are carrying. FYI.

Not a problem for me, I was able to choose to open it and not have to download it. Thanks for the link.

Boy I do not envy those of you having to gear up for nasty winter weather. Can't imagine having to change tires for winter driving. But that's why I live in sunny California. Not trying to sound smug or like a smart arshe. We all decide where we want to live. But it would be nice to have a White Christmas, but I can go to Tahoe for that. Drive safely everyone this winter.