JohnTrigger

I checked with my local dealer and they didn't know anything yet, but a Google search the other day shows new A5 SD Nav cards are now out there for the 8" MFT/Sync Navigation systems. It seems to be just a map update, not anything else related to Sync. These SD Cards are showing up on Ebay. I just bought one from Levittown Ford Supercenter online for $120+shipping. It should be here in a few days; I'll let everyone know if it works seamlessly. It does not appear that we can get this update for free like we did A4, as A4 was a necessary part of a Sync software fix. This just seems to be a new map update, one that I'm assuming we have to pay for if you want it (at least I just paid for it anyway.) Part number is EM5Z-19H449-AA

I have the Ford Training Tool for my other Ford vehicles. I never knew how to get into tire training mode on the CMAX however, until this post. On my push start CMAX SEL, after pushing the start button (no brake), and then pressing the hazards 6 times (basically on-off-on-off-on-off within about 5-7 seconds), the low tire warning light came on the dash. I did not see any "train XXX tire" messages anywhere so I just went left front, right front, right rear, left rear, (it beeped each time a few seconds after I pushed the green button on the tool), and after the fourth beep, the low tire warning went away. No idea if my CMAX is reprogrammed correctly now or not, but when I had my tires rotated at the dealer a few months ago, and I asked them about reprogramming for the TPMS, they said it didn't need done and not to worry about it. I probably agree, in that we don't really ever know which tire is low, just that one of them is low, with our TPMS system. Good post though, thanks for the info!

Sirius Select is what it is called, so you could see the channel lineup on their website to see if it meets your needs. You don't get the live traffic on the map nor live weather map that came with the initial free subscription. Those are a few more dollars per month each, and since I don't directly live in an area included in the live traffic, and since my smartphone can show me real time weather pretty easy, I didn't need those at an extra cost.

I, of course, had the original 6 months free after buying the car 1 year ago. Before it expired, about 6 months ago, I called to cancel Sirius, as I am mostly unimpressed with the sound quality but do listen occasionally. It is certainly not worth full price for me, even if I can affort it. While trying to cancel it back then, they offered it to me for 6 more months for around $33 (like $4.99/month plus some fee of a couple $). I took that offer back then, figuring it is worth just over $5 a month despite my comment above. Last week, just before my second 6 month period expired, I called again to cancel, and they offered to extend my 6 months for another approx $33, just like before. I will continue this 6 month process until they say no, then I will cancel for good.; I have the date bookmarked on my smartphone to call the day before it expires next May. I won't even think about full price unless they change their sound quality. This 6 month/roughly $30 does not include the travel or traffic or weather.

Have you tried deleting the bluetooth pairing inside the phone and from MFT, and then doing a master reset of the MFT, and then repairing the bluetooth. I had good luck with voice before any of the upgrades, and good luck with voice post upgrade to 3.6.2 as well, and this is what I did after updating it myself. A master reset of MFT is as follows: Touch the button at the bottom center of the home screen that looks like two gears turning. Then touch the SETTINGS tab. Then touch the SYSTEM bar. Then SCROLL DOWN to MASTER RESET and perform it. It will delete some of your preset radio stations, bluetooth, etc, but it might fix it all. Before you do the above, you might want to try a "delayed reboot" first, which won't affect your preset stations nor your bluetooth pairing, but might not fix your gripe either: Google "MFT delayed reboot app" and download it from outofmytouch.com. I used to use this a lot on 3.1.3 and 3.5.1 when it started getting "buggy" as "preventative maintenance", but haven't had to use it yet, knock on wood, with 3.6.2.

I too have used the sensor disable to stop the beeping when it is being annoying. It definitely is when I am stopped and while creeping (of course 0 mph is less than 5, so I think whether creeping very slow or stopped might not make a difference--they are effectively proximity sensors). Of course they also beep when at the drive through window and you are close so you can pay/get food, sensing the building is too close, rain or shine. They work great all other times, and I like having them, but they can be a little annoying at times. Thanks for sharing your experience. Any others seeing this in the rain?

Anyone else note that when in a light rain and you are stopped at stop light or stop sign, that the front park assist sensors (the higher pitched ones) will beep at you? Same roads and stops and traffic conditions don't trigger it when it isn't raining, so it certainly has something to do with the rain. I suspect either a sensor's internal or wiring is getting wet and I'll have a problem soon, or perhaps it is sensing that I am too close to that particular rain drop/mud splash that is on the outside of the sensor, and thus it is alarming/beeping to warn me? I don't know, so I thought I'd ask around here.

syncmyride.com is where you get it. I used a newly formatted FAT32 USB drive. During the download from the website, the progress appeared to stop at various % and then jump. Finally it was done; Download took about 10 minutes. The install went fine. The ICE does not need to be running, but the car needs to be running in either EV or ICE. I had the car mostly in EV mode, but did drive around the neighborhood for a few minutes as well. Just disregard the reboots, the "don't recognize USB" message that might occur during middle of install, the fact that it stays forever on some install points (like installing update 3 of 9 took forever for me), and the black screens, and the radio going on/off at various points. Eventually, after about 30 mins, it will be done and it will tell you so. Then you reinsert the same USB back into your computer on the 4th part of the install and it uploads your results to syncmyride.com account. Worked well for me. Didn't try to see what has changed. PS: after install the clock was off by an hour, had to sync it to GPS then manually add an hour. PSS: I also did a master reset when completed, not sure this is required, but I did it anyway.

That DST feature went away with 3.5.1. Now, you have to update it with GPS, then manually change it by an hour, to get a good time hack (or do it all manually of course)..

We were in the Times Square area this weekend. Saw several CMAX Hybrids as Yellow Taxi Cabs. I also saw a bunch of Ford Escape Hybrid Taxis as well, obviously a couple of years old as this model is no longer made.

on your sync my ride website, download the version checker onto USB and use it, then upload it back to sync my ride to see if you were in fact updated. The dealer should have done this for you, but might not of.

I bought these red plastic tire plugs from Victor yesterday to throw in the CMax "just in case". These look very simple and easy to use. I got them at Advance Auto http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_png-assorted-w-pull-victor_10294744-p?searchTerm=victor+22-5-60207-8#fragment-1 Searching around the internet for more information, I found them on Amazon too http://www.amazon.com/Victor-22-5-60207-8-Plug-Tire-Repair/dp/B00CRCQFXK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1/189-8040090-3258724 I can't find any reviews, and I have no doubt they are a very temporary solution at best, but I got them nonetheless and plan to use them if necessary to be able to get to the tire repair shop instead of using the Ford supplied "goo" that will ruin the TPMS sensor and cost me much more for a repair. I also want to be able to temporarily repair the tire without removing it from the vehicle if just a simple puncture. PS: I also bought the traditional black strings, glue, and tools to repair the tire that way too, "just in case" these plastic things don't work. I realize none of these solutions are as reliable as a spare, and won't work if it is a major blowout, but I figure better to have at least a few options, and I don't want to lug around a spare in the cargo area.

Thanks all for the information flow on the last two pages on this issue. Mine were not working as I thought they should either (I noticed this yesterday in moderate to heavy rains from TS Andrea with the wipers in Auto mode, even if the wipers were running constantly the lights did not come on--had to turn headlights on manually (it wasn't dark enough during the day for the lights to come on due to darkness--that part works fine BTW)). It sounds like all of our wiper/headlight "interconnect" is working as designed; I'm just not sure that any of us, nor the manual, nor perhaps even some at Ford understand how they were designed.

I got the FSA (Field Service Action, sort of like a recall for non-dangerous things, and unlike a TSB, you don't have to prove you have the issue to get the fix) reprogram for the liftgate done yesterday. Dealer installed new firmware for the hatch from their IDS system, and now it works with one kick each time. Prior to the FSA, it would require two kicks if the vehicle was shut down for more than about 3 minutes. Now it works like it should

By the way, for anyone who reaches this topic via search, Ford issued a FSA (Field Service Action) in May 2013 to reprogram the kick liftgate. Before the udpate, it seems the sensor would go into a deep sleep after 3 minutes of down time, causing two kicks to be necessary. The reprogram fixes the issue.

As ScubaDadMiami is saying: Very recently Ford issued a FSA, Field Service Action (sort of like a recall in that you don't have to have to prove you have the issue like you have to when they issue a TSB). It involves reprogramming the liftgate release firmware through their Ford IDS system. It will fix the issues; I got it done yesterday and now it works on one kick each and every time, regardless of how long it has been "asleep". It is likely you were not standing too close causing an obstruction; like fotomoto said, it is likely it worked because it hadn't been asleep long enough when you were at the dealership.

I got the 3.5.1. update yesterday, and all went fine with mine. It also involved reprogramming the PCM and a new A4 nav card. They had the car for maybe 3.5 hrs from dropoff to pickup, and they did a tire rotation and reprogrammed the rear kick hatch for the double-kick issue when the car is shut down for a length of time, now it works just fine too with one kick all the time. I'm very happy.

I also own a Ford Escape Hybrid, 2007. Putting it in L causes an increase in regen braking when slowing, and BTW quickly shuts off the ICE below 40 mph (the limit on EV in this vehicle), thus charging the HV battery more--I use it all the time in that vehicle when coming to a stop. I tried to use my '07 Escape driving technique of using L when I first got the CMAX SEL, but I quickly figured out something was different when the CMAX ICE engine rev'd real high each time. I'm told that later models of the Ford Escape Hybrid act more like the CMAX non-energi, eliminating this increase in regen braking whie slowing down, instead engaging engine braking.

The TSB for the liftgate is discussed here: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1917-tsb-13-5-6-2013-c-max-hands-free-liftgate/ I need to take mine in to get this done. The check engine light for P0456 is discussed here: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/491-check-engine-light/page-3 See my post #60 on page 3 and #67 on page 4. Also see posts by Darrelld #74. They will replace your purge valve.

It is such a pain to get to those fuses anyway (contort body in foot area of passenger seat, pull back carpet, etc) that while you are there, you might as well try all three. It could be different issues causing the system to lock up, which is why 69/79 worked for him, but 67/79 worked for me. I don't know. I did not run my car with ICE when I had to pull the fuses.

The MFT menu's master reset will likely not work since the screen is frozen. You can download a delayed reboot application here, but that likely won't work either for you now that it is frozen. If it does work, it will not erase your presets or your phone. I use it as preventative medicine every week or so. http://outofmytouch.com/reboot.html You are likely stuck with either disconnecting the 12V battery from underneath the hidden console in the back of the vehicle (12v battery is NOT under the hood ;), so this is not simple either) or you can contort your body and look in the passenger front seat foot area up under the dash, pull back some carpet and get to the fuse panel, and pull fuse 67, but you will need small pliers or a fuse puller, as it is nearly impossible to get your fingers in there (in the book it is labeled as Energi cell passport, but this is the one to pull). Or, you can go to the dealer. It is not easy to do any of these, that is why I use the delayed reboot app periodically to (hopefully) prevent issues.

Mine does the same thing. A bit annoying, but I've gotten used to it.

I'm glad to hear that. I appreciate you posting this info earlier in this thread. Based on your experience and my identical P0456 code, I knew I too needed a new purge valve. My dealership installed one with a model number ending in B, whereas your's used one ending in D. I suspect you have a new part, and mine was "fixed" (for now) with an older part, so I suspect my problem will resurface in due time. Tijme will tell.

I wish you luck, but I see issues in your future: The hide a key/small metal key works fine, except the alarm will go off after about 15 seconds if you don't immediately have the fob available to start the car. The keyless alarm pad will NOT work on the SEL, unfortunately. I have those on my other Fords, very handy, but not available for SEL CMAX. Your dealer may have a new fob on hand and will certainly be able to program it. However, it is more likely they may have to order one--it took my dealer a week to get a spare one on hand (I just wanted a third one). It will cost you about $140 for the keyfob with your personal precut key. It will cost an additional $90 to program the FOB. Then, once you get your original fobs out of the car, they'll have to reprogram those as well, maybe at an additional cost? They will be able to look up your hide a key/small metal key "cutting code" by your VIN, and order you one of those for a lesser amount of money, but that will definitely take a week to get in. Read my posts here for more info that I learned: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/803-adding-a-third-intelligent-access-key-dealer-reprogramming/

Sorry, I haven't been on here lately because I am not at home. So far it has, but I also think it is too early to tell, I've only driven it a couple of times since, and not for very many miles, since the fix was performed