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dalebunker

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Everything posted by dalebunker

  1. I must have opened and shut the hatch a dozen times today. With 100% success. I found I didn't have to 'touch' the bumper, but it's about having the top of your foot directly in the center, and just under the bumper maybe by 2 to 4 inches. The direct 2 kick (unlock then open) works perfect. Would love to hear if others have the same success....:-)
  2. We're $3.70 at the discount places, $4:00 is the average....I love and hate the California Air Resources Board. On one hand smog is magnitudes better than it was in the 70's, yet the clean up comes at cost....
  3. GOT IT :happy feet: Works every time --now. It's all about the foot! Use the top of your foot and touch it in the center just under the bottom of the bumper. No need to put your foot under the car, don't need to reach under the car. Just walk up, in the center, touch the bottom of the bumper with the top part of your foot, works flawlessly every time. No swiping, no reaching etc. I'll take pics this afternoon I'm sure there's a legitimate issue, for earlier cars --mine was built 3/13-- but now that I know how to "touch the bumper" it works great. I'm so excited lol. And on a separate note, text messaging now works too; albeit with some limitations, but that"s a different thread. The love affair just went to another level today :wub2: :drop: :sing_rain:
  4. I spent quite a bit of time experimenting with the rear hatch today. From the day I got the car, the kick feature was very intermittent, and I was getting frustrated. I read all the posts I could find and tried various things. The only thing NOT mentioned in any of the post is how "high" --or close-- you need your foot to the bumper. Until today, I could only get the hatch to work only 30% of the time. I tried forward kick, side kick, one way then the other etc. All without consistent results. But I think I finally figured it out!! My findings: If the car is locked and you just walk up to it, it is still a two kick process --In my case, the leg (foot is better term here) swipe had the best results-- First swipe unlocked, second swipe opened. If the car is unlocked one swipe opens the hatch But what I found to be the key, is I needed to have my foot almost swiping just under the bumper. If I swiped the leg under the car, but the foot near the ground, poor result. If I stuck my leg farther under still poor results. However, if I swiped the FOOT just under the rear bumper --literally the foot about an inch or so under the bumper, I got it to work 9.5 times out of ten. Same thing for closing, swiping the foot under the bumper 1 time, closes the hatchI'm going to try it a dozen times again tomorrow. If my finding continues to work --e.g. foot swipe under the bumper-- consistently, I'll see if I can take a video to demonstrate the results. Anyone find the same thing?? Dale
  5. No workie either. iPhone 5 iOS version 6.1.3 Assured show notifications is on in the Bluetooth profile, configured sync. When I try to use the Message function, Sync tells me 'you have an incompatible device' (or something to that effect) Oh well........
  6. Hmm, when I try to configure Sync's text messsaging for my iPhone 5 it says its unsupported. Maybe I'm missing something....? Did you have to do anything creative to get it to work?
  7. Welcome Jason. Its a great group of people here; lots of knowledge. I have the iPhone 5 and have --almost-- no problems with streaming either from bluetooth or the USB port. In fact, I use the USB for my music and the bluetooth connects the phone. Little tiny glitchers here and there, but overall works well. NOW, I would love to get the text messaging feature to work :baby: :sad:
  8. I'll see if I can explain what we're experiencing a little better. --PWBarrett, feel free to make any additions or corrections to the description There is no "play" in the steering wheel at all. driving down the freeway in a straight line --between 65 and 70-- holding the steering wheel in one spot. As the road surface changes or the wind changes, the car will respond ever so slightly in one direction or the other based on what's changed. The car will every so slightly follow a new course without moving the steering wheel at all. Then, the moment you begin to compensate with the wheel --again there's not play in the wheel, you're responding with just pressure on the wheel to compensate-- the car responds and in some cases an ever so slight over compensation. I need to be very clear this is ever so subtle! it is only noticeable on a straight road, traveling over some distance where you can just put the car on a straight line and leave it. I never feel it running around town, or even short jaunts up to 50 or 60. Its only really noticeable when you're cruising. And the changes are ever so slight. One other point. If you are a "one handed" driver on the freeway, its more noticeable as I'm constantly having to make minor adjustments to keep the car in the lane. The pressure from the hand to make the adjustment is more than what I've experienced in other cars. By the time you apply the ever so slightly needed pressure to get the car to compensate, it responds a ever so slightly to much. Again, I think this is related to EPAS primarily, but also could be related to alignment --but unlikely. Its kind of like driving an old rear engine Porsche. They tended to follow the road, yet a tight steering wheel.
  9. Yep! Same thing here. I rented a C-max the week before mine arrived, it was a little twitchy on the hiway. Mine does the same thing. So it's something inherent in the car. Be curious if a factory alignment setting is off (doubt it) or its something to do with the EPAS system ( most likely). And like the other poster, not sure I want to bring this up with the dealer --yet.
  10. 'll Echo C-Maxers process, though if you really want a good machine, I recommend a variable speed polisher/sander as having a high degree of control over start speed, speed control, and multiple holding positions for varying conditions. Porter Cable makes a great machine, but DeWalt also has the soft start which was the tipping point. I had an old Snap On for 14 years that worked very well, but it finally gave up the ghost, I spent quite a bit of time researching, and DeWalt won out with the variable speed and soft start switch (Which my Snap-On had-- it was a $350 unit in 1999) The soft start switch is great for spreading the compound evenly at slow speed before hitting full speed (so it doesn't sling stuff) then lock in the switch to run it. Then you can vary the speed with the dial speed selector to holding a consistent speed . When working with different compounds and polish, the right speed for the right condition is critical. My detail jobs are a pretty big undertaking, when I run a unit, I run for hours over multiple days. So having something that can run for hours without heating up is critical. Here are pictures of the recent detail job, its a full 3 step process: compound, polish, then wax. There are some before and after pictures, the polisher and the 3 step process.. The results are amazing and having a good machine really really helps deliver the results needed.
  11. dalebunker

    IMG 1976

    From the album: DetailJob

    Polisher, pads and materials
  12. dalebunker

    IMG 1975

    From the album: DetailJob

    The DeWalt model
  13. dalebunker

    IMG 1973

    From the album: DetailJob

    Before
  14. dalebunker

    IMG 1972

    From the album: DetailJob

    More done
  15. dalebunker

    IMG 1970

    From the album: DetailJob

    before the process
  16. dalebunker

    IMG 1969

    From the album: DetailJob

    More results
  17. dalebunker

    IMG 1968

    From the album: DetailJob

    Another after the process. Polishing the contrasting colors is a challenge on gel-goat. I have to mask of the blue so it doesn't bleed into the white
  18. dalebunker

    IMG 1967

    From the album: DetailJob

    After the 3 step process
  19. California: 2 weeks ago ordered 'MADCMAX' can't wait for the plates to arrive
  20. What found is the blue oval guy see when the car will be delivered to the local distribution site. Then it takes two or three days to get moved to the dealer. This was my case, according to the rail delivery it was delivered but it took them three days to get it off the train, 'documented' and put onto a local delivery truck.
  21. It's Sterling Grey. While they're not down to primer or metal, they're definitely through the clear coat as you can feel them on the surface. To slight defense of the dealer, you can only see them when the light catches it right. I went over the car pretty carefully in the bright sunlight, but didn't see them till later when the light changed. Oh well. we'll see what they say and decide from there. Otherwise the car is awesome so far!!!
  22. Walked on the lot at 4pm and the car was ready. All the paperwork was done Monday, so we went right to the car and went through the dealer checklist, then I went through mine. After my rep walked away, I spent an hour in the car playing before I left the lot . So many thoughts, but the net is I'm super happy with the car. I've had a couple high end vehicles in recent past and I have never been more happy about a car purchase than this. It had 15 miles on it. I reset everything before leaving, drove about 51 miles and my average is already 41, I couldn't be more pleased. Just one issue :-(. I got home and waiting for my partner, I caught in the light 4 scratches above the driver door handle. Argh...called the dealer immediately and he said bring it in and they will take care of it. This is one of those things I will look at again and may decide to live with it since correcting it means some paint work, which I'm afraid may be a bigger hassle than its worth. So I will make that decision tomorrow I'll post pics when I get to a computer. Dale
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