jestevens

So can I really drain and fill the HF35 fluid at 150k per service schedule? I now have 121k on my CMAX and the dealership doesn't want to touch it since it's never been changed before. But this transmission is more like a manual eh? I am not using the car with a heavy service schedule. I have not had any issues with the transmission to date.

I left my CMAX without starting for almost two weeks and the physical radio buttons stopped working part of the way driving around town. Press power or eject and no response, then the AMP stopped working (no audio from radio, but audio from turn signals okay), then the touchscreen started lagging and acting up. I pulled fuse 67 under glove box on passenger side to reboot APIM -- (please wait while windows performs scheduled maintenance ) but that did not really resolve the issue. I pulled fuse 79 and that seemed to do the trick, the amp output was back and physical radio controls started working again. The only other problem was I had tried a "Master Reset" first so I had to re-pair my phone and reprogram all the Sync customization I had done.

I was able to loosen the HVAC cowl, loosen the clips by the radiator, loosen the bolts that hold the assembly and rotate the headlight assembly to get more clearance without having to actually remove it -- not really a lot of fun -- and one side has slightly more clearance than the other. To change headlight in my '94 Cavalier took 30 seconds -- but modern cars seem to take a lot longer -- the HHR you have to remove the wheel well lining. The Prius Gen 2 -- I was able to do it, with very cramped hands, a mirror and a lot of patience. That one was a treat -- $80 per bulb for Xeon bulbs on Amazon -- Toyota wanted like $300 per headlight to change them by the book.

My friend had a TPMS sensor fail during a particularly bad cold snap after tires 5 years old. That all sounds about right. The battery is glued in such a way to make a waterproof seal which makes them hard to replace. Most folks here in the US would rather just pay the $60, plus I guess they could claim it's a safety issue. He has a Mitsubishi mirage which doesn't take kindly to third party TPMS replacement, we had to pay twice -- once for aftermarket sensor at a time shop and again to replace the sensor with a mitsu one at the dealership. Lucky the tire shop traded the cost of the sensor for an alignment instead. There is a video on youtube showing what it takes to replace the battery..

Yesterday I tested Sync 3.10 with Spotify running on my 1st Gen iPhone SE with iOS 14.4 and if I started Spotify playing first then picked bluetooth as an audio source from the touchscreen it seemed to play okay, show the name of the song, etc. Of course if I quit spotify in the middle of playing the car wasn't happy and caused some issues. The reason I'm quoting all of the version numbers is that programming changes between different software versions and it very well can break playback, etc. Stupid idea but if you can't get it to play maybe the dealer can help? They usually do the new car turnover with new customers -- maybe they can spot something with your phone/car setup that I can't see.

Can you try turning the volume up on your phone while spotify is playing? I still need to try to test the latest version of their App with my phone -- I'll try to do it this afternoon after work. Like I said I had a problem when I tried it a few years back -- it would speed up playback and eventually disconnect. It's kind of weird that it says "Ford C-MAX Interior.." as the name of the audio source. When the bluetooth audio works correctly and it's playing something off the phone it should show the name of the song and artist. So to review: 1) Be sure USB is unplugged completely 2) Start Spotify and verify you can hear it playing through the speakers on your phone 3) Choose the bluetooth option shown in red in your first photo again 4) Hopefully you should see the name of the song and maybe have to adjust the volume on the phone or car stereo Sorry it's not working -- if you can try another audio clip on your phone like a Youtube video that might help troubleshoot if spotify is the problem or not.

They also come on at inconvenient times, like it's a cold day and the blades are frozen to the bottom of the windshield - I forget the auto setting is on and start to clear the windshield of ice .. ruined about $60 worth of very good wiper blades that way. I will have to go out and look in the menus again -- I could've sworn there was a setting in there.

I still have my iPhone SE, I'll try to test via USB. It's up to each software vendor to implement the audio playback features as they see fit. Sometimes they make changes to their software that breaks stuff. You could try to send a message to their customer support but not sure if they are still interested in supporting SYNC 2 or not. Is your phone already paired to the car? (e.g. can you make and receive calls via the mic and speakers built into the car?) If so bluetooth audio is already another option open to you that routes the audio output that would normally go to the phone's speakers to your car's audio system instead. Bluetooth is basically a low power digital wireless connection between different devices, so in this case between your car and the phone. In the case of a smartphone telephony, audio and digital serial (raw data) connections are usually supported. In SYNC 2 only the phone and audio profiles are probably implemented well (there is an option in the later versions of Sync 2 to pair your phone so the car can access internet via phone but I don't think any of the SYNC 2 apps use it.) Start an app (Spotify) playing audio on your phone while it's NOT connected to USB -then- under entertainment you probably already see audio sources for Radio, CD, USB .. if you tap the down arrow to go to the next page there should be one for bluetooth there? Tap it and if the phone and car negotiate correctly the audio should start playing through the speakers in the car. I think with an SEL you should probably have the touchscreen version of Sync with the Sony radio but if you only have the 4" text interface the easiest way is to press the voice button on the steering wheel and just say "Bluetooth Audio > Play" The biggest thing you would be missing by NOT using USB is that while it is plugged in your phone would also be charging but you can still play via bluetooth and charge at the same time.

It sounds like you are plugging the phone in directly via USB. Did you also try streaming audio over bluetooth? You can either select it on the touchscreen or tell MFT "Bluetooth Audio, Play" Try deleting your phone and re-pairing bluetooth? The spotify client software may have changed the way they play audio? I was going to use Spotify a few years ago but found that their client did not work well with bluetooth on my iPhone SE. The audio was buffered weird. That was many years ago now so maybe it works differently/better.

The only weird behavior I've had like that was when I switched from navigation to audio in a weird way -- like it was still trying to draw the map and I pushed a weird combination of things on the touchscreen. I guess the timing must have confused the APIM software and the infotainment display locked up. There must be a deadlock timer though because eventually the APIM rebooted itself - saw the SYNC logo, the disk check and everything while I was driving. The infotainment is kept separate from the engine controls stuff in the speedometer though, which is good considering "Microsoft" software isn't the most reliable. We had a 2013 SE at work where the driver was going 65MPH on the highway -- engine power abruptly cut off and dash flashed "Stop Safely Now" -- he wasn't a big fan of the car after that .. lucky I've never had that problem with the SEL. Please let us know what they find out.

It has low CCA because the 12V battery does not need to crank the engine. I think some third party batteries for Group 67R have more CCA but not sure if they fit properly. Quoted on the Ford Parts site as about $130. Vehicle Battery Part #: BXT67R (67R) Usages: 390 AMP/65 RC, Tested Tough Max Series, 07/23/2012 - 04/26/2018, C-MAX Energi 2014-2018 (CCG)

There is also a 12V battery charging algorithm that the dealer is supposed to reset whenever they change the 12V?

The 2020 Escape Hybrid is getting good reviews, let us know how you like it .. I see that it has room for a compact spare so that's already good vs. CMAX. I wonder if you get more trim/accessories for the money vs. RAV4 Hybrid.. I might try to hold out for the ID Buzz if the CMAX stays good but jitters about buying a first gen brand new vehicle.

She ended up picking the 2020 RAV4 Hybrid XLE -- says she's very happy so far.

Ford originally overstated the MPG and I guess they have a reputation as unreliable, so the resale value is not high. You can get a Titanium Energi now for $17K? That DOES make it a very affordable car for someone looking to buy their first hybrid, and the trim level is amazing for that price, but there have been issues with the 12V battery, especially on SEs and some issues with transmission. Mine still has 109K miles and no problems except for the 12V legitimately needing to be replaced. After more than 325K mi on her Corolla my mom is looking CMAX, Escape Hybrid, RAV4 and Camry Hybrids which are at least $25K used or $34K+ new.

I used to have that problem with my HHR, but that was because they put a helpful butyl patch to cover some hole near the fresh air intake on the passenger side -- Over time the adhesive holding the patch would deteriorate.. If you parked the car on an incline and there was a decent amount of rain the passenger side flood would happen every time. Still remember seeing the Chevy techs use a little carpet water extractor..

Oh no! I'm sorry -- a deer? Hope you are okay.

The car was originally designed to compete with the Prius V, which it does very well. Glad you like it! My 6' 8" friend can fit height-wise, although knee room is a bit cramped; his car is normally a Durango..

Sorry didn't see this until now. Central Pennsylvania -- when it died of old age (around 7 years) I had to beg the Ford dealer to change it as their battery test did not show it failing. ..and changing it resolved all the funky issues. I did have an issue with the new 12V being dead, but that was just because I wasn't driving the car enough due to COVID. I went and bought a jump pack just in case but only had to use it that one time so far. I had the same thing with my HHR, I don't think I ever bought a battery for that car in the 6-7 years I owned it. Kind of a pain that engineers put the battery in the trunk but it seems to preserve the life of the battery better.

Re: IKEA -- The screws are also crazy -- they have different colors on the threads but they don't mention which screws are which in the instructions I got with my "Poang" .. it would save SO much time to just say "blue 8cm" ..

I had similar thing around 60K mi, the dealer service filled it for free when I pointed it out to them. I still bought the orange jug of pre-mixed coolant just in case.

scooter, if you don't want to pay someone to rebuild maybe you could get a used pack from a newer model Energi for less money? I used to think Tesla was the gold standard until they started shipping cars with poor panel fit and glass roof not glued in. For $50-$100K? ..no thanks.. Interesting the dealer wants to charge $15,000 as I think Toyota will install a new NiMh pack on the Prius for $5-7K. The pack chemistry IS different but really? I'm not sure that my next car will be a Ford, it might be a Toyota or the VW ID Buzz but it's a shame the C-MAX got such a bad rap, I genuinely like the car. The Hybrid Escape looks very similar. My mom wants to buy a car for retirement since her corolla has 325K+ miles (the odometer stopped counting at 299,999). I suggested to her to test drive the C-MAX, Escape, Corolla, Camry, Prius and RAV4 Hybrids. All are nice cars IMO. C-MAX is by far the least expensive because it got a bad reputation early on. I have 107K mi on mine now and no issues. John

It would almost have to be something with the ANC or Stereo Greg, not sure if any other system makes that sort of noise, whiny capacitors are annoying but not ear deafening. Modern cars also have a lot of wind buffeting noise say if one window is rolled down but not another -- but that is not what you are describing. Hope it works!

If you have the 301 package you SHOULD have NAV enabled -- if they didn't program it that way they should reprogram it for you.. 301A adds: Navigation system with 3D and voice Nine Sony upgraded speakers Sony audio system digital radio 302A adds: Power liftgate Rear cam&radar parking distance sensors Hands-free liftgate Includes 301A Equipment Group 303A adds: Front radar parking distance sensors Parking assistance: Fully automatic for front parking and rear parking Includes 302A Equipment Group

This came up in google search results? I have no experience with the product. https://www.precisionled.com/ford-c-max-hybrid-premium-led-headlight-package-2013-2015.html