jestevens

Service dept has something called "stop squeak tape" or something like that - it's like double sided foam tape that they can use to pad trim pieces.

If you have an air conditioned garage that would be ideal, the worst part is usually 90F in 90% humidity when I try to change mine and it's not easy to lay across the passenger footwell area. I get why they put the filter box there but it was a lot easier on the Prius and HHR (right behind the glove box vs. under the center console stack in C-MAX/Focus).

Ford service shop has some sort of "stop squeak tape" that they sometimes use to pad things since there are a lot of plastic trim pieces on these cars. Next time you take it in for service maybe they'll help? Otherwise maybe you can use your own double sided tape?

When I swing foot it doesn't always register, but when it does the door actuates fully open or closed - unless it thinks there's something in the way or you swing foot a second time - in that case it might stop and if it happens a third time probably reverse direction. BTW, I've had this happen unexpectedly with car backed into space; some friends who were standing between parking stop and tailgate trying to unload stuff from car accidently triggered the gate to close by moving their feet so close to sensor without realizing it - I was able to apply pressure to the door to stop it accompanied by a lovely grinding noise. Not sure the door has been 100% the same since but it still works.

I have a 2013 SEL, my FOB has no dielectric grease ?! That seems that it could certainly contribute to the problem - do both FOBs have grease?

I had an opportunity to drive new fusion yesterday for a 120 mile round trip cruise. They ought to rename this thing the Edsel Hybrid. I was not impressed. I had driven the older 2010 generation and EXPECTED that car to be slow - but I would have thought they would have improved the design in 10 years to be more responsive like the C-MAX. It was not unlike piloting the Merrimack up the Potomac River I'm sure..numb steering and absolutely no throttle response whatsoever..I have no idea how much that car weighs, it took all I could do to get the speedometer to go halfway and then I was afraid to give it any more throttle fearing that the dead weight would achieve ramming speed on the way back down the hill .. I had it out of ECO mode and it was just horrible. The one I was driving did not even have smart key locks - you had to use the FOB to lock and unlock the door. It's a very nice car if you're not in a hurry. C-MAX is everything this car is not, so what do they do - they discontinue it and replace it with the Ecosport and Escape Hybrid... Gawd help me, I even like SYNC 2 better - when did I become a grumpy old man?

I have a similar mileage and age on mine and haven't really noticed an issue with the HVB vs the way it has always worked. Since it wasn't throwing a code I wasn't really paying attention, just get in and drive. The battery capacity is so small that you could only go a few miles on full EV so I consider it as more of a device that evens out the RPMs and extends range of the ICE. If the engine is not on and you have MORE charge than when you shut it off the night before maybe the ambient temps were extremely hot or cold and it limits the use of the battery - thus shows less available SoC at one time vs another? When my Prius battery was starting to age you could see that it would easily go from empty to full in a very short amount of time with the engine running more - I think because less cells working. That coupled with lots of high speed HVB exhaust fan noise prompted me to sell Prius and buy C-MAX while the battery pack still had SOME life left in it. To really know what is going on you would have to chart it with one of the OBD diagnostic programs?

But, but .. it's got a SONY badge on it !!! (I still shake my head every time I see the "Powered by Microsoft" logo on these cars - anyone who has been around Microsoft software long enough knows better ..) I actually like the radio, shame whoever they hired to assemble the radio can't solder? I suppose it could just be a thermal design problem.

I've always had surface rust on inside of door panels near welds at bottom of door seam and rust at spot welds around the hinge of back door - I wash car at least once a month or when it gets very dirty and they don't seem to be getting any worse. Car now has nearly 98K mi on it, sometimes engine feels a little rough from a cold start. If it gets out of whack enough to start throwing a code I'll take it in and ask to change injectors/plugs - does this thing even use plugs, maybe coil packs? But I can't complain for nearly 100K mi on original parts. If the body really starts to rust I think maybe I will trade for a 20 Corolla Hybrid or Prius. If it lasts long enough it would be interesting to see Ford's new electric line up in MY21-22 although I doubt I can afford or want an electric F-150..maybe I'll change my mind.

My 12V -always- tested good by whatever procedure Ford is using as well, but locked out and having to use the manual key three times wasn't fun in February. Factory battery 5 years old, I told the advisor to change 12V anyway. She was concerned I would be upset if that didn't solve the issue but issue was solved after about 24 hours with new battery installed in car. Low voltage causes all sorts of weird issues with these cars.

I have never experienced the noise you describe and I have 92K miles now.. Maybe you can have a friend stand outside the car and ride by to see if you can pinpoint the noise. Hopefully it should be easy for a service tech to diagnose.

There are two different braking systems in the car - regenerative braking that turns motive energy back into electrical energy stored in the high voltage battery and traditional hydraulic brakes if more stopping power is needed. I think this car is "brake by wire" - there is no direct connection between the brake pedal and the hydraulic system - the pedal sensor only tells the computer how much force you are applying and then the computer can decide what mix of regenerative and hydraulic braking to apply to charge the battery and/or stop in emergency. The C-MAX and Prius seem make a hiss/buzz/whir noise while replenishing the brake accumulator, that part is probably normal but I've never heard a "hop hop". You could test drive another C-MAX to see if it makes a similar noise?

One time I decided to get my registration out of glove box so I went in via passenger door, then started the car in accessory mode or something - pushed the power button enough times to shut things off or so I thought but when I shut both doors the dash cluster screens weren't powering down..I ended up getting BACK in the car through the driver's door as normal then starting the car putting foot on brake, etc. a time or two - then finally it showed the normal displays dimming out and powering down. The only time I had the MFT screen act up was that time I documented on here earlier last month - I was playing audio through Bluetooth and just as it was switching a song or something I pushed the button for nav map - the MFT screen froze, about 10 minutes later as I was contemplating pulling off the road to restart the car a timer must have elapsed and decided to restart the APIM - sync ran a disk check and started back up with nav, etc. restored as if nothing had happened.

I must be in the wrong business because if I was charging $1,000 to replace a transmission and everything was already torn down I might be tempted to just throw in the $125 clutch as a part of the repair. I guess no one wants to work for free.

Maybe Ford reserved the "E" just to annoy Elon Musk - now he only makes S_XY cars..

So if I was ready to go all electric and the price was right the plug in version would definitely be a contender..still have some range anxiety. It would be no problem for a daily commute but I do sometimes like to take long trips on weekends. We'll see. Hopefully my C-MAX will still be going strong for at least another two years. Oh, it's a plug in hybrid like the Energi - I just figured that most new plug in cars would be all electric 5 years from now..

Doesn't seem like a very big battery pack for the hybrid version, although I haven't been able to find the Kwh rating of the C-MAX hybrid to compare. I guess it makes sense for Ford because they can basically tool up for one car then. I hope they are just being conservative with the MPG though, I'm certainly going to be shopping around next time.

Some of the folks I've talked to with new cars say that pairing the phone with the car now is a requirement if you want nav, etc. so I don't know if it's actually using software on the phone to do the nav or it's just using the phone's data connection but it does seem manufacturers are moving in that direction. I have to say that other than being sooo sloooow Sync 2 has mostly worked on my vehicle. I think I maybe made a mistake by doing the very last upgrade as the previous software seemed more stable but for the most part it does work..they should have spec'd a faster processor for the hardware.

The first time this has happened in 60,000mi - I have MFT Sync 2 - was streaming Bluetooth audio from phone and using NAV, tapped entertainment then NAV on the home screen and sync completely locked up at the home screen. No touch screen response, no response by holding voice button on steering wheel. I kept driving and was considering pulling off to restart the car but no easy exits. After about 5 minutes I guess a timer must've elapsed - the screen blanked out, Sync restarted and ran disk maintenance. At first Nav was like "SD card not supported" - but after a few more seconds it restored the audio and current route as if nothing happened. I guess now I really can say I managed to crash every computer I've owned. John

My HHR had this problem - Chevy had a bad batch of electric power steering motors from Delco - there was a recall for Cobalt and HHR in Canada but not for HHR in US. Eventually they did cover the cost of new power steering motor but then shortly thereafter thermostat stuck open in car and the cost to replace thermostat was curiously about the same as cost to replace power steering motor.

Yes, it doesn't sound like a fun procedure, like a lot of new cars they drop the body around/over the drivetrain - easy to do in factory but hard to service in a regular garage. If they can cover via warranty that is great - otherwise ..

I have 92K so far, I'll have them look for leaks at next oil change. Not looking forward to more car payments but if mine starts leaking will probably trade it for a Prius, the Sonata Hybrid is nice too but it uses a six speed transmission, annoying. I don't think resale value on C-MAX is that high considering when I bought mine used the purchase price was low to start with and unfortunately car has a bad reputation. It's a shame because up until now I've literally put no major repairs into this car, just oil changes and a new battery, topped off the coolant once. Otherwise very reliable with the latest software updates. Never had a problem with parasitic 12V drain. I've heard a rumor that new Prius is not built as robust as Gen 2 but we'll see. As far as I know Ford is still just selling Escapes and F-150s so nothing in the line up really appeals to me.. Gas here in PA is higher than in surrounding states because they have lots of bridge repairs to make and public transit to subsidize. Plus, hybrids are nice for other reasons besides gas economy.

People here at work with icy windows used to complain about the hybrid's desire to suppress running the heater/engine until I pointed out the MAX DEFROST button? If you want the engine to run instantly and for a long time you can use that. If you want engine to cycle off and on I would just use regular auto set on a high temperature range as already mentioned.

I prefer using the in dash nav because my phone inevitable loses reception, falls on the floor, screen is locked, battery runs down, etc. while I am driving but I do wish that ETAK or whoever is providing the maps would at least make the upgrade price competitive with the price of a new GPS unit - I can buy three standalone whole GPS systems with lifetime free map upgrades for the price of one "official" upgrade. I wonder if the software in SYNC 2 GPS will be affected by the GPS Time reset that is going to happen in April? I guess we'll find out.

I just received notice today in the mail that A10 is available. The price quoted for the official version is $149. They'll generously pay for shipping if I order by May 31 2019.