Bill-N

Seriously!?? Counted a yellow light just today: 3 seconds, max.

Effectively, all the electrical controls are 12V. No 12V, no way to tell the HV what to do. Note that there are several possibilities as to the cause of the dead battery. My take is that there are actually multiple causes which is why the "problem" is so hard to diagnose and resolve. Cheers.

I thought the entire car was supposed to shut down, including headlights, before the 12V was run down.

I can shed some light on this, although no reference to a general overview. "do the 12v and HV batteries share any tasks?" Not really."Is the 12 v battery used only to start the car and run the instrument panel, while the HV used only for HVAC and power train?" Generally correct, but with one big exception: starting the engine is done by the HV battery."Is the 12 v recharged solely by the HV battery?" Yes."Does not the engine participate in charging the 12v (traditional alternator)?" No. The engine recharges the HV battery which, in turn, recharges the 12V battery via a DC/DC converter. Hope this helps. Others will add/correct any (mis)information. :) And, some of the above may differ with the Energi. Cheers.

The only thing I can think of is to force EV+, i.e. make the hilltop an EV+ location. Search the forums if you need help with that.

Sounds like Putnum Ford needs to get with the program ("insulated rubber mat and heavy rubber gloves") if they expect to be able to service electric vehicles.

That's depressing. Imagine the poor service department schmuck who's trying to diagnose the problem (sigh!).

Ah, you have an SE, so yours is the "typical" dead battery scenario. SE's seem to take the brunt of the problem. Have the electrical connectors checked for signs of water intrusion. Re, lemon law, I have no clue as to the rules and regulations. I do know that it's important to follow the procedures to the letter. I truly hope Ford finds a definitive solution/s to the dead-battery problem.

Received. Installed. Happy. :love_shower:

Why? Practically everything on the car is computer controlled one way or another. One can argue the merits of computer control (they've gone a bit overboard IMHO) but "driving a Dell" is not a bad description.

My subscription to the shop manual expired 7/10 or I would look them up for you. Someone else perhaps? Or, if its worth it to you, the monthly subscription is $20, but there's also a 24hr rate. Google Motorcraft Service. FYI, the site is a bit funky and only works with IE. And something makes me think the ETIS site can look up codes given a VIN number.

To be precise (emphasis mine), "... insufficient interior head impact protection at the roof/B-Pillar area."

To say the least. My condolences (is that the right word?) regarding your troubles. When you say "shut down" do you mean dead battery? I'm curious as to how long the car had been sitting when it failed to start. The leading theory on this problem seems to be in two parts. First is that the battery isn't being sufficiently charged. And, second, there's something that does shut off properly which causes the battery to run down. The TSB addresses the first part. Was it really installed? As you can tell by reading here, there are lots of false starts, so make sure (sorry, I don't know how to tell) the TSB was successfully installed. I can;t tell from you profile which model you have. If it's an SEL, then TSB 13-6-17 may address the something-doesn't-turn-off issue. Two other things to check which have been mentioned in the forums are possible dampness in certain electrical connectors and continuing a phone call after the car is shut off. This latter is something like (this is from memory so may be quite inaccurate): Talking on the phone using the cars built-in bluetooth feature.Transfer call directly to cell phoneTurn the car offContinue talking using cell phoneSYNC (or whatever) fails to shut off so it drains the battery. You'll have to snorkel through the forms for info on these. Hope this helps. I really, really, really, like my C-Max. But it's no good if you can't rely on it. PS: Last resort would be Lemon Law. Be sure to follow the EXACT procedure if you must go this route.

Agreed.

May I respectfully suggest that this thread me moved back to the "Fuel Mileage" category.

I believe there's a bulletin about this. Look in the maint & TSB forum.

It's not the sound of the gas engine kicking in, is it? The internal combustion engine on the C-Max has a higher than typical compression ratio. As a result, it sometimes sounds rather like a diesel, with a guttural, rattly sound. Not to worry if this is the case.

That was quick!!!! Thank you.

I'm in.

EV+ displayed (on the display to the left of the speedometer).

Sage advice all around. FYI, I have OEM floor mats in front, rear, and cargo. Very happy with them (they're heavy-duty and all that).

FYI, the engineering test mode appears to display DTC's. I haven't had a DTC to verify this :happy feet: , so I can't say for sure. Perhaps someone else can. Search the forums for "test mode."

(Emphasis mine) Yes, EV+ does not require navigation. Search the forums for the answer to your other question; you will find the answer there.

Good info. Thanks.

Still nothing useful on Google.