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Another fun little thing I discovered: Although I work from home now so have no need for the Departure Times/Go Times, I did set it up just for fun through the app. This started with no Go Times information set in the car. It appears that it added the data into Sync as I was able to confirm everything showed, but Go Times were still turned off despite the Departure Times toggled on in FordPass. Should have went off at 6AM this morning but I can confirm nothing happened at that time. Also, unfortunately, FordPass doesn't offer specific temps and just has Cool/Medium/Warm/Off for the cabin temp options. 'Cool' seems to set it to 65F in Sync per my own findings. I'll have a play with the others.

One additional piece of info discovered regarding the TCU AsBuilt stuff, specifically those 754-03-xx blocks: 754-03-06: ****-xxxx-xxxx This is unique from the others in that it specifies some form of HEV/Hybrid data update/polling frequency. It appears to be in either seconds or minutes? The default that others have seen with their official upgrades (per their AsBuilt's already documented in this thread) is 0078 which is 120 (sec/mins). 7D7D would put this up to like 31000 or so. Also a new AsBuilt DB for these H TCU's has been posted over on the CyanLabs site: TCU-H Database - CyanLabs

Awesome to hear. Glad it was something simple. ?

Holy crap... That did it. That C1MCA threw me given I know this is a CGEA vehicle. Thanks for that! Will definitely be adding this to my notes. I'm still planning on trying to get a rundown of features that can be enabled on these vehicles with simple software tweaks such as this one.

Interesting! Strange thing is that I've been messing with these for a while and they haven't made a difference. I have had the sensor 'blocks' on the rear view camera since the beginning without issue. Just no overhead car display. In addition to these, I have had the following set: 7D0-02-02: xxxx-1xxx-xxxx 7D0-04-02 xx03-xx (I did have this set to 08 at one point while trying to sort this out, though this will be different for yours only having the rear sensors) Similarly in the BCM I have this set, but it will obviously vary with your feature set: I've refreshed everything so will do a few drive cycles and see what happens.

This is 100% where mine is at as well. I just went through and compared notes on what I see with my app vs what you mentioned here and it's all identical. The assumption so far from multiple people is it is all on Ford's end and they still need to get FordPass fully functioning with these new features for us ( @bookemdano and I had a brief discussion on this stuff with F150chief over on the CyanLabs boards and that seems to be his thoughts as well. Did get some new and useful info on that front which I'll post below.). So it's largely a waiting game. Once again thanks goes out to F150chief over at CyanLabs for providing some more useful knowledge concerning these TCU's and the AsBuilt configs. You can read the whole thread as it is currently here: TCU HJ5T Asbuilt Discussion - Ford / AsBuilt Configuration - CyanLabs Official Community We had originally assumed the 754-03-xx blocks were just garbage or storage bits. But apparently these are additional configuration options to tell the TCU what various bits of data to pull from the vehicle and send back to Ford. 7D indicates the data should be pulled and sent back. 7C ignores that bit of data. Unfortunately there's no insight to what each individual bit corresponds to. Based on the discussion, it seems like it is harmless just to set everything to 7D to enable ALL THE THINGS and send it to Ford. It is still then up to them to populate and display this data on their end in the app. I have went ahead on mine and did just this and enabled all those bits. No new data just yet but as always I'll keep you posted if anything changes on this front. Just as a quick FYI on the AsBuilt stuff that I've briefly mentioned here previously: With ForScan, the last two bits in each individual block are checksum bits. So in the case of these changes to the 754-03-xx blocks, they won't show or even be able to be set to 7D. You can enter anything in these bits and ForScan will just recalculate what should be there when you go to write it to the module.

Very strange. Communication errors and some lighting circuit errors. A few things I'd try: Try clearing the DTCs and see what returns. Maybe for good measure try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and see what changes. Go back in and double check the wiring and harnesses where you were working (the harness under the driver side rear door may be a very good one to check) and verify no wires are pinched or cut. What did you do with the pulled wires on the rear lamp? If you left them as is or taped them off, I'd see if you can try to repair it. It could potentially be freaking out the BCM and causing erroneous codes. Last ditch effort: Temporarily return the old G TCU and see what changes there. If things return to normal, there may be some fault or incorrect programming on the new TCU? Just a hunch here. If reinstalling the old one works, I'd reach back out to flvpmods since they would have done all the setup and programming work ahead of time for you for the new TCU. Also, during any of these steps, it may be worth clearing out any visible DTCs and re-reading them. Various modules can be unhappy when messing around and throw DTCs that can stick around even after the initial cause is resolved. Those that are still active will, of course, stick around after. I may recommend doing the DTC read step a couple times to make sure you pick up everything. I know the antenna circuit code on the TCU on mine if I clear DTCs and re-read, it doesn't pop up immediately but maybe 10-15 seconds later if I re-read it shows. Just an FYI.

Only gotcha with that and why I have avoided inquiring people with other Ford models is with the C-Max being Focus based, it uses a 'Central Configuration' system vs AsBuilt modifications for some modules. Basically the BCM has a Central Configuration page to adjust various parameters and it disseminates these to other modules in the vehicle that need them. My best guess is this is why my PAM doesn't have an AsBuilt config which seems like it may be key to getting everything properly functioning with the Sync 3 retrofit. To the best of my knowledge, none of this applies to the Fusion and you guys can just modify the PAM AsBuilt normally and be good to go. Hence why I'm reaching out to 2016+ C-Max owners here. Those came from the factory with Sync 3 and will give me a much better idea how theirs are configured in this area.

A bit off topic, but this thread seemed apt to ask this considering a number of you have access and are comfortable with using ForScan. Those of you who have 2016+ models, especially with the full front/rear parking sensor and parallel park assist features equipped, I wonder if I could bother you to post the PAM (Parking Aid Module) part #'s as well as calibration levels? Also interested if ForScan provides an AsBuilt config option for the PAM for you. I've been digging back into the parking stuff with the Sync 3 retrofit on my '13. One feature I've been trying to add is the 'overhead sensor' display (example image below) but potentially a roadblock I may be dealing with is ForScan is not providing an option to modify the PAM AsBuilt which may have options that need to be changed. So far the parallel parking feature seems to work, although it's very rare for me to have the opportunity to use it here. I've only ever been able to mess with it once since my retrofit.

I'll have to pay closer attention to mine and see if that's the same. I HAVE been fiddling with the app and refreshing it a lot and that also seems to trigger the vehicle to wake up and start pulling power briefly from the EVSE. Here's my power usage graph since Mar 27th: I'll try not to mess with the app and see what shows up going forward. EDIT: Probably a better link since the forum likes resizing these: https://imgur.com/zrHPqXR

The only issue I ran into was the actual side panel (the final piece of the puzzle to remove) wouldn't come out easily. It is wedged under a lip of metal on the top of the battery casing in the back corner right behind the seat. I had to essentially 'rock out' the panel from the top. This is different than what the WSM suggests sliding it straight out. Other than that, the rest of the process was straightforward. Once I was able to get the side panel off, I basically followed the same exact instructions laid out in the CSP for the TCU installation including placement, use of velcro strips, etc.. Since the DIY modules are essentially identical to the official ones, that process is no different. EDIT: As an FYI for the thread as a whole, I'll work on updating and cleaning up the initial post of the thread with the new and relevant info we have so far. Will try and get this done in the next day or two.

TL;DR: Despite some old threads either here or on the defunct Energi forum and some other communities saying Global Close wouldn't be an option, it looks like it actually is on our vehicles! Just as an explainer what 'Global Open' and 'Global Close' are for those unaware: This allows rolling your windows down and back up via the keyfob outside the vehicle. The process is as simple as pressing the lock/unlock button once and then immediately press and hold it for about 3-5 seconds and the windows will roll up or down (unlock for down, lock for up). Unlike the Global Open function, Global Close only requires pressing and holding the lock button once to engage. Global Open will continue to require pressing the unlock button once and then pressing and holding it again to operate. At any time you can press lock or unlock to stop the windows while they are opening/closing. NOTE: It appears newer models years like the 2017 and newer already have this enabled and specifically detail it in the owners manual. Before changing this willy nilly, confirm yours does not already have this enabled using the fob operation noted above. There was a thread that popped up on the CyanLabs forum from a Fiesta owner who was trying to tackle enabling Global Close and the always helpful F150chief pointed out a thread for Kuga's (European Escape, essentially the same platform as the C-Max) on doing a relearn process on the auto-up/down functions on the windows to try and get it working. Not exactly sure what specific step finally solved it, but here's the process: WARNING! You are making changes to the Body Control Module. This module is crucial to vehicle operation and manages functions like interior and exterior lighting as well as ignition operation. If you are not comfortable messing with this and/or ForScan, please don't. Following these instructions is at your own risk and I am not responsible for any damages or malfunctions incurred as a result. As always with changes like these, please back up your AsBuilt/module configurations before making changes! Also follow all notes and warnings given to you by ForScan and their own resources. In ForScan, go into the module configuration screen and choose the 'Central Configuration' (NOT AsBuilt!) for the BdyCM module. Locate the Global Open/Global Close configuration entry and change it to the 'Global open/close doors enabled (3 seconds)' option. I think this is listed as 02? Write this to the module. Follow all directions ForScan gives you in this process. For completeness sake, I relearned the auto-up/down functions on all four windows. This is as simple as rolling a window both down AND up completely and holding the switch in those positions for about 5 seconds to learn the extent of travel. NOTE: If the one touch up/down on your windows does not work immediately, it will impact the Global Open/Close functionality. Messing with some modules like the BdyCM/BCM can do this and the relearn process noted here will need to be done. Once the one touch up/down works, you should be fine. And that was it! I can now confirm the windows now can also roll up via the keyfob. I'll try and get screenshots from the options in ForScan for later to add here. Quick short video with proof of functionality: C-Max Global Close feature enabled and functional (video proof) - YouTube

Regarding the core charge bit, I'd definitely push back on your dealer if that comes to pass since Ford is the one delaying things. That said, not too surprised with the quirks and bugs and how haphazard things have been on the official end of things. I'm curious what model year C-Max you have though? I know in some later bulletins they had started holding off for some model years due to compatibility issues.

I've consistently had 754-01-01 set to B842 on mine. 754-02-01 I've jumped between 00A0, 1EA0, and currently have 1EE0. Honestly haven't seen any change in functionality between any of those and will probably switch back to 1EA0. And I believe someone has confirmed having this on their C-Max with the official upgrade. So much info floating around though so I'm not 100% and would have to go digging for it. ? I tried 1EE0 to add that 'PwrPck' option just to test a theory on some statuses I was seeing. On Ford's website (https://www.ford.com/support/vehicle-dashboard/) you can use the Dev mode in your web browser to get some more detailed info provided from FordPass and I had noticed there's an 'outandAbout' option and it mentions the PwrPck feature but it is unavailable so I wanted to see if that change made a difference but so far seems to have not changed anything so likely going to switch back to 1EA0.

I pulled from Ford's WSM (Workshop Manual) for the official procedure. I've attached that below. I intended to try and video the process when I did mine but it didn't come out how I wanted at the time. TCU_WSM.pdf

Something that's been eating at my brain lately especially following the couple of Facebook C-Max groups is that I think a decent FAQ for these vehicles is probably worthwhile. Especially as it seems more people are buying these lately (not surprised with the gas prices). Many quirks and little idiosyncrasies that are unique to this vehicle that are worth documenting IMHO. It'll probably be a big/long term project and at least if I do tips & tricks videos, it'll obviously be focused on my own '13 Energi. I'll probably avoid doing the extreme hypermiling stuff. Most I'll probably do in that realm is cover very basic battery management/thermal management tips. Looking for suggestions from other members here of some good items to add. I'll try and keep a running list on this post. Radio/ACM 'lockup' fix with the Fuse 79 pull/recommended calibration update per Ford's TSBs on other models (https://www.tsbsearch.com/Ford/SSM46440) HVAC usage tips (vent only/outside air, limiting defrost load mixing defrost and vent/floor, battery friendly cabin heat usage tips)

What state are you in? Hybrid warranty is 8yr/100k miles or 10yr/150k miles in CARB states. Those states include California, Connecticut, Colorado, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, Washington, and Washington D.C. If you don't live in one of these states, having passed the 100k mile mark you are no longer covered and that's that. Sadly nobody has had any luck pushing to get these to recall status so Ford's likely just going to tell you to pound sand. Someone even went as far as to get a lawyer involved and try to start a class action suit some years back but it went nowhere. You could see if you can find a non-dealership shop that works on hybrid vehicles and see what they'd charge to install a used transmission. They could also give you a second opinion on the leak which I'd highly recommend getting.

The EV trips option actually disappeared on mine sometime around when I enabled the journey tracking option, but may have been caused by something else. Also the scheduled charging stuff has been missing for about the same time. I'm thinking about trying going through the reset/TCU factory mode process again and drive around and see if any of that info returns.

I just went out and checked my '13 and can confirm the blue number in the Vehicle range screen is the electric range, white below it is gas range, and the larger white number below those is the combined range. For a 2014, you should also have the battery bar on the left screen showing the electric range. It'll be kind of a '3d' look with a number displayed if there is plug-in charge available. If not, it'll be more 'flat' with no numbers displayed on it, indicating it has no plug-in charge and is operating in hybrid mode. When you try to change EV modes and it stays on Auto, this is expected when you have no plug-in charge. It will not allow you to switch out of this mode unless there is plug-in charge available. Additionally, when you see the EV miles on the trip summary screen, this is also expected when in hybrid operation. It's simply listing the number of miles it was able to operate with the engine off. If you're seeing 0 miles on either display even after being plugged in, a few things you may want to check: Ensure your vehicle is not set for Value Charging by mistake. If it was used, the previous owner may have had it set. This mode allows you to set the car to start charging at a set time and not immediately when plugged in. Probably the easiest way to rectify this is to do a Master Reset on your Sync system. This will wipe out any previous navigation info (if equipped), bluetooth pairings, and Value Charge data to name a few. For Sync 2/MyFord Touch go to the Settings and I believe under System and there is a Master Reset option. I may be off so you may want to dig around for it. It's been a while since I've messed with Sync 2. Ensure your EVSE (charge cord/charger) is functioning. If yours looks like the image attached below (it will have a different label and wall plug, but the shape and form will be identical, these are the replacement units for a recall that Ford had a little while back), the two lights on it will tell if it is operating correctly or if there's an issue. You can find the manual for it here and Page 10 lists what the different light combos indicate: AmazingE-User-Manual_FINAL_20190130_LoRes.pdf (amazing-e.com) Of course if you have any lights on the dash like a wrench icon or check engine light, use a code scanner of your choice (or have someone at a local parts store who offers that service do it) as it may be indicating an issue with the charging system and will help narrow down the cause. As a last check, if you have a public Level 2 charger nearby, you can try using that and see if the charging behavior changes. Some users occasionally report different behaviors between the stock included cord and using a public charger when something is misbehaving.

Same boat here with the lack of VC/Go Time functions in the app so far. They function just fine in Sync though. One user on the Focus BEV forums just posted at least having those functions in FordPass (hasn't confirmed them working) with the Sync screens working like ours. The Focus BEV was the one thing explicitly called out in this upgrade CSP as not having the 'scheduled charging' functions until sometime this Summer. So I'm curious if that is still going to affect us to some degree. Thankfully with me working from home and already using public charging sparingly (maybe a handful of times a year at best), the default VC profile works perfectly.

One weird and funny thing I noticed happening and totally expected given how Value Charge was a bit hit or miss on MFM: If I do a refresh in FordPass, even with VC set or even when the battery is full and has sat, it'll start trying to charge again. Got my EVSE plugged into a smart plug directly now and it's been fine (knock on wood) and I reliably see the power usage jump to ~1200w when I do this.

Ford has essentially made all the basic FordPass functions free for 'life' (subject to change at their whim of course, but they have not made any indications this will change any time soon) for any eligible vehicles including ours, regardless of what the situation was with MyFord Mobile. The only option that costs when it comes for FordPass is if the vehicle was hotspot equipped and the cost is just for that feature alone. EDIT: To add an additional note on this, a few of us here have 2014 or older C-Max's. Mine's a '13 and the DIY has been working fine barring FordPass just being slow to populate things. And there's no area in the app or on the website concerning a subscription or expiration or anything of the sort. And as far as Ford knows, my TCU is tied to my '13 C-Max and not the previous '17 Escape that the TCU was pulled from.

To add on to what @stolenmoment noted, I'll elaborate a bit further: For the most part, the overarching functionality isn't much differentiated from an ICE only vehicle in that the power points will pull from the 12v systems and battery. If the vehicle is shut off, the power points will drain the 12v battery which is used to start the vehicle (even if the HVB has charge. The 12v battery is needed to wake up the various modules to start the vehicle.). Once the vehicle is started, the DC-DC converter (which takes the place of a traditional alternator) takes over and draws power from the HVB to keep the 12v battery charged and power the 12v systems in the car. The ICE will start periodically as needed to keep the HVB charged. Sitting parked it'll usually just try to keep it at a minimum charge level so it may run the ICE for a couple minutes every 15-20 minutes or so depending on the electrical or AC/heat loads. If you have an Energi, this period where it starts the ICE while sitting parked will be much longer depending on the charge level. Caveat being that depending on the mileage and associated battery wear, the ICE may start up periodically even if a plug-in charge is available. This is from personal experience and the educated guess is for cell balancing. Driving normally, it is able to charge individual cells during regen and the charge cycle during hybrid operation. Sitting parked, the only option to put a charge into the battery is via plugging in or intentionally starting the ICE. An additional note: The two power points up front (in the center console and behind the gearshift) are switched power. They'll shut off after a certain amount of time after the car is shut off. The rear power point in the cargo area is on full time.

Looks like data is finally starting to show for me after actually being able to make a few trips and not just sit in my garage. I lost the departure times and EV trip options that were there previously cut everything else is now working reliably. I did turn on the journey stuff in FordPass but I was able to confirm data flowing through to my Home Assistant install which only pulls data from Ford/'The Cloud'. Also was able to link FordPass to my Google Home which it wouldn't let me before saying the vehicle needs to be activated first.

Based on the info we've found on the H series TCU leads me to believe the same route would need to be take on the Hotspot TCU's, that being an updated calibration is likely needed to enable these functions. Looking at the 2020 Fusion Energi brochure it does appear they were equipped with hotspot functionality and also had 4G TCU's standard if this document is accurate? Would likely to need to track down someone who owns one to confirm their TCU Part # and calibration level. Looked up the 2019 Fusion brochure as well and they note it is equipped with the 4G hotspot equipped TCU. Which is very strange given the CSP lists these model years. Very peculiar and now I'm definitely interested in getting confirmed data from '19/20 Fusion owners. EDIT: Reviewing the brochures further, only the '20 Fusion Energi appears to have been equipped with the FordPass Connect 4G hotspot in addition to MyFord Mobile functionality. '19s and prior only list the hotspot function on Hybrid or ICE only trims. 2020_FusionPlugInHybrid.pdf (ford.com) 2020 Fusion Tech Specs (ford.com)