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Easy: Go into the clock screen (for Sync 2, you should simply be able to tap the clock at the top of the screen on any page) and you'll find a button that'll say to Reset or Sync to GPS time. Same on Sync 3 systems as well.

A number of reasons for not going down this route: A lot of those portable storage units/battery packs have limited power output. If you aim for the <$500 budget range, most only put out 200-300w. If you want up near 1kw, plan to spend over $1k. Also with infrequent use being in play here, all being lithium based I am wary of spending the money and having it sit and likely self-degrading as a result. Generators are also out for similar reasons. And more importantly they are just noisy and in the end likely run a lot less efficient than using the C-Max as a generator itself. All in all going down this route I'm probably looking at $200-$250 all in for the inverter and all the extra bits and this will get me an 800w-1kw continuous power feed that the car should be able to handle just fine. And I can safely and quickly disconnect it and pack away the inverter when not in use and hook it back up just as easily when needed. This definitely isn't an unusual setup especially in the hybrid/plug-in communities. This is just the first time a personal need for this has come up and finding a very good setup to base off of.

On our vehicles (both Hybrid and Energi models) they have two coolant temp sources. First is inferring from a cylinder head temp (CHT) sensor that sits flush to the head of the engine normally between the middle coil packs. This is common across many Ford vehicles. With the C-Max, there's a separate TRUE coolant temp sensor, ECT2 in this case. Took me a while to find specifics in the workshop manual, but I've attached a PDF below where it details the location, removal, and reinstallation. This also matches component diagrams elsewhere in the workshop manual that show the ECT2 feeding off the harness in this exact area. This best I can tell is specific to the hybrid model. I THINK for the Energi models this sensor moves and is part of the PTC/electric heat coolant loop so it can monitor that temperature for the HVAC system. I'll dig into my workshop manual a bit further and include that info just for completeness sake here. 2013_CMAX_ECT2_workshop.pdf

Looks like I'll potentially have a need coming up to run a higher wattage power inverter, more than the stock one will provide. I also would like to future proof for potential future uses especially considering we've had two long-ish term power outages this summer alone here due to the storm frequency and severity we've dealt with. Doing some further research I have the following notes to go on here: Per the official Ford workshop manual, the DC-DC converter is capable of 'up to' 145 amps to the 12v systems/battery. Under ideal operating conditions w/ a fully charged 12v battery, sitting idle in EV mode but 'Ready to Drive', and Daytime Running Lights active, the base 12v load as indicated by the DC-DC converter appears to be between 30-40 amps, usually hovering around 30 at least on my '13 Energi. With the above noted, the theoretical max capacity inverter one would want to use is 1000 watts (continuous rating) max. This would be a 100 amp load on the 12v side, not counting for any conversion inefficiencies. Ideally you probably want to aim for 800 watts to account for headroom and those aforementioned inefficiencies. There are TECHNICALLY some ways you can get around this including adding a beefier aux battery to the mix as a sort of buffer if you need the higher wattage for only brief periods. But for a 100% stock and unmodified vehicle, the 800w-1kw inverter ratings are the theoretical max you'd want to go with 1kw being used continuously likely completely maxing out the load on the DC-DC converter so keep that in mind. Most higher capacity inverters seem to expect to be hardwired and do not include cables with clamps on them but eyelets to bolt down instead. A handy Volt owner has a thread over on reddit with what I believe is a nice baseline setup to accomplish this and what I will likely base my own setup from to make it a handy quick disconnect system: My DIY inverter wiring setup : volt (reddit.com) The main takeaway with our vehicles and any kind of hardwiring in this case is connecting to the vehicle wiring in the appropriate spots. There is a battery monitoring sensor on the negative post of the 12v battery which is key in that it provides the vehicle useful data on how much current is being drawn or supplied to the 12v battery and allows the DC-DC converter the information it needs to output the right amount of power to supply all loads. So a third party load like this should be AFTER this sensor electrically. The positive side of the battery does not seem to have this same issue and -should- be able to be attached to normally. I will be doing more physical research and will start getting the items together to work on this. I'll document this process as I go.

If you don't have the factory nav, you can't get turn by turn directions. You USED to be able to. Ford used to have what they called 'Sync Services' where it could dial out via your phone to an IVR/automated phone system where you can ask for directions to a business/address/etc and it would pull turn by turn directions down over the voice channel (like an old school dialup modem) and the car would then take over. Didn't require any onboard maps or anything. This existed way back in the original Sync 1 platform back in 2008+. But they've deprecated that feature and there's no replacement. In fact you should be able to use the 'Services' voice command and it will try to dial out but you'll get a message saying it no longer exists and hangs up. What model year do you have? 2013-2015 model years with Sync 2 (if you have the 8" touch screen system) can be 'hacked' to add navigation. 2016+ years with Sync 3 you need new hardware to add navigation. Though on those, you do have the option to use Android Auto/CarPlay. Which brings me to an additional point: If you have the factory 8" Sync 2 system on a 2013-2015 model, they can be easily upgraded to Sync 3 and the upgrade is 99% plug and play. People sell full pre-programmed kits all over. I paid about $700 all in and I got factory navigation as well. The vehicle does include a GPS receiver regardless of whether you have nav or not. This is needed for other features like 911 assist and the EV+ feature you noted. It would have also been used for the Sync Services feature I mentioned above. It's also able to be used to sync the clock and do auto timezone adjustment if you have that enabled.

The bits at 754-01-01 xx** xxxx xxxx look off. All J/K models (as well as other TCU models) in CyanLab's db have everything from 60 through FF listed as 'Reserved'. Though a previous discussion in their forums indicates internally these duplicate some other bits. If I read that conversation and this info correctly, those bits SHOULD map to '38' which indicates the following: 38=VA CGEA 1.3, TDR EU, OCS Configured CGEA 1.3 should be correct for a late model Fusion, but not for a C-Max. That would need to be C1CMA. The TDR EU region would depend entirely on your intended region of course but this indicates (if this person did not intentionally change this block already) that this is an EU destined TCU. To the best of the collective knowledge so far, TCU's cannot be moved between regions. If it was built for EU, it will only work there. Same for North America and other listed regions. OCS, unsure of what that is for but it tracks what we've seen on the H TCU's. Other than that, everything else lines up. The 754-03-XX and 754-04-XX blocks are just feature toggles. So far it seems like enabling all of these is fine. So that would be setting them all to 7D. 7C disables those. Caveat is 754-03-06 ****-xxxx-xxxx which is a unique bit that is an HEV data publishing frequency. The 0078 it is set to now is fine and can be left as it is. Probably the key thing here is getting what calibration level/strategy is loaded on that TCU for comparison. All the TCU AsBuilt's as they are currently on the CyanLabs' site don't have anything specific concerning the Go Times/Value Charging (now called Departure Times and Preferred Charge Locations in FordPass respectively) and with the H TCU's this has long since been narrowed down to being tied to an updated calibration and F150Chief over at CyanLabs has already basically confirmed some J/K firmwares have this but doesn't look like we've had a lead on a specific version there yet.

That said, to comment on one of your concerns: So far in all my years in this community I think I've only seen this kind of thing once or twice by other owners but it never seems to be a big enough issue to cause the car to be completely undriveable. And despite it being a bit unnerving I'm sure, there seem to be at least enough failsafe's for it to drive. This just happens to be a communication error to where the IPC (gauge cluster) isn't getting the continuous stream of data from the rest of the car (mostly the PCM/engine computer) and is why it just 'drops' dead for a moment. I won't guarantee that it WONT cause drivability issues down the road, but to the best of my current knowledge and second hand experience from other owners, it just means a temporary communications issue. But that also means it is probably going to be a pain to track down. Checking and verifying all chassis grounds you can find would probably be my first go-to.

Here's one, but this is JUST an example. There's many more out there: https://www.amazon.com/Forscan-elm327-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B079KBYP2Q/ Telltale sign is it says MS-CAN in the title and also has that switch on the end which is how the unit switches from HS-CAN to MS-CAN and back (the ForScan app mentioned will specifically ask you if the dongle has this switch and will let you know when to flip it). Another tell is if they list ForScan in the name as well. MOST cases of these will do MS-CAN. Technically I think in this case MS-CAN is not needed (Dumbed down version: MS-CAN is for less mission critical modules in the vehicle like climate control, door modules, radio, etc. while HS-CAN is more critical stuff like the PCM/engine computer, BECM/hybrid battery module, IPC/gauge cluster etc. where your issue is likely to be taking place) but it's worth having IMO just in case it is ever needed. If you ever plan to dig into the car a bit more down the road, can splurge a bit, and plan to use a Windows computer at all for this, I can't recommend the OBDLink EX highly enough: Amazon.com: OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter : Automotive The OBDLink EX will basically do just about everything you could possibly need with this vehicle at least through the ForScan application.

Depends. If it is the full 8" screen with Sync 2, it is a fairly easy process. There ARE C-Max models out there with the smaller 4" screens which Ford technically refers to as 'Sync v1'. Likely fleet models and I've seen more owners recently crop up with these. These require a bit of extra work to upgrade with new dash pieces and some harness adapters. I'm not 100% up on the details of this process, however. That said, to the OP: If the guy offering you $200 knows the system you are starting from (especially if it is with the 4" screen) and knows what they're doing, that's a steal. Most DIY kits for the easier 8" MFT/Sync 2 to Sync 3 upgrade run around $400 minimum give or take and that's w/o factory nav. I paid about $750 for mine a year ago and got mine with factory nav included.

My 13 (Energi) is still holding up at 87.5k miles knock on wood. No new abnormal noises. I still get a constant, but low brake scraping noise that I've posted about on this forum prior that even my dealer couldn't narrow down even with a ride-along. At best they told me it was just the brakes and normal and I'm just hearing it because it's a hybrid/plug-in and drives so quiet. That noise hasn't gotten any worse, but also not any better. Not due for new brakes yet so will just wait patiently until that time comes and see if anything changes.

I'm not quite so sure the keyfob battery is the culprit here. Slowing down the video, what I'm seeing pop up is the brake light and low oil pressure warnings. Could just be an intermittent communication issue between modules. Have you ever actually been actively driving when this happens? If so, does anything else happen like the speedometer bottoming out? How often does this occur? You say you had a dealer check it, but just to completely rule out there being any latent codes, do you have the tools to pull the codes yourself? I highly recommend just for sanity's sake and not having to constantly go to a dealer down the road to get on this. I personally recommend a cheap OBD Bluetooth dongle on Amazon (Make sure it says it can do Ford MS-CAN stuff!) and the ForScan app (Android, iOS, and Windows). This will pull any possible codes the vehicle has stored, even historical codes that dumb scanners may not pick up, as well as Ford specific codes. On the code scanning deal: If this seems to happen at specific times that you could possibly narrow down, being able to check for codes right when it happens could also help. Bare minimum it'll be an extra data point for diagnoses and may even help the dealer out if they cannot replicate themselves.

Just adding one last confirmation on this before I leave this thread alone (until I get the TSB done myself and wait to see if the issue reoccurs) but now that it has gotten into the deep summer months here, the ANC on mine has been absolutely perfect and even seems like the ICE noise is even less now whereas previously I was still able to hear it at a low level with the ANC still active. Definitely seems to be ambient temp related for sure. Now the big question mark is this: Is the main culprit something in the roofline directly affecting the microphones or maybe the ICE behaving differently? Heck, maybe motor mounts (from experience with my old '07 Focus which seemed to go through motor mounts like candy, it definitely had a noticable increase in vibration during the colder months). As noted earlier, I will be trying the 'fix' from Ford's TSB on this issue at some point and will see how that goes. 14-0151.pdf

1) Verify you didn't accidentally put it in L. This will add heavy regen when letting off the gas. Driving in D, it will still do SOME regen off-throttle but it is more like a low level regen with a feel similar to a traditional automatic vehicle. 2) Check and see if your brake lights work as well. When you brake normally, do you get the little spinning circle on the dash over the battery gauge still? If either of these are a no, sounds like something with the brake switch that you should get checked out. Also, what do you mean by the leaf screen was reset to a blank screen? Can you possibly get a picture of that and post it here?

Correct. All C-Max and Fusion models (the latter ones even up to the 2020 model years!) were equipped with either 2G or 3G modems from the factory. None came with 4G stock. Unless you've gotten the upgrade done already or (highly unlikely but possible) recently bought the vehicle and the PO had it done sometime in the past 5-6 months, you -will- need the upgrade to use the full FordPass functionality*. You can check Sync under the About Sync screen and there will be a modem ESN listed. Unfortunately, I don't recall the letter prefixes that indicate if it is 3G vs 4G. I'm pretty sure that's been mentioned somewhere here in this thread. Needless to say, barring the two situations above, highly likely you're going to need to get the upgrade done. * Some functionality in FordPass is delivered via Bluetooth from Sync without the need for a working TCU including stuff like fuel/battery levels and oil life. However Ford is deprecating these and they may already be gone. At the stage that functionality is removed, a TCU will be required to see that information. Remote Start/Lock/Unlock via FordPass will always require a working TCU. There's no Bluetooth/Wifi method of communication for those features.

If it happens often like maybe a couple times a day or even during a drive, that doesn't sound like the ACM from how most owners have experienced it. Usually the ACM may act up once or twice a year. What I have seen however on the older Sync 2/MFT APIMs not only first hand with my C-Max but I've seen a few other owners report it as well where they start to fail and throw a Windows-esque 'Application Error' dialog for some system service and reboots. And depending on the circumstances, it may happen frequently. Here's a clip I took when it occurred with mine: https://streamable.com/suukeh If it is the latter, the Sync 3 upgrade would definitely nip the whole mess in the bud. But can't confirm with the info we have. @kathi if you can go into more detail what specifically is happening, we can definitely narrow that down and give options.

I had posted this in one of the FB C-Max groups, but probably a good reminder for everyone to check your parking brake and ensure it properly engages and holds the vehicle still. It's not unheard of for the parking brake cable to wear or loosen over time and not fully engage as a result.

To elaborate a bit further: With xEV charging (EVs and PHEVs alike), as a baseline here in the US they use J1772 as the standard plug and protocol for Level 1/2 AC charging. Being standardized, EVSEs/cords work with everybody across the board. The obvious exception being the weirdness Tesla has set up. As @fbov mentioned however, if you plan to ever migrate to a full EV, you may want to consider a higher capacity cord (given your electrical supply is up for it) to future proof. You can use a much higher capacity supply with the C-Max and it will only pull the max it can take which is around 1200-1500w on a 110v circuit or 12 amps. This is also part of the J1772 standard where the cord indicates to the vehicle the max it can supply and the vehicle will only pull up to that amount to the max itself can take. One caveat with some of those cheaper 'Duosida' clones on Amazon as someone pointed out recently on /r/electricvehicles is those sold and supposedly rated for 220/240v and higher amperages above the 12a baseline may not be fully reliable at those levels. Some have reported them failing at those higher loads. For the C-Max being limited to 12a, it's likely not an issue but just something to be aware of in case you do ever plan to upgrade to a vehicle that can charge at higher rates.

It's not much different than the Prius in overall operation. The 12v battery powers all ancillary systems like any other vehicle such as lights, radio, etc.. While the vehicle is running/in 'Ready to Drive' mode there is a DC-DC converter that is active and takes power from the traction/high voltage battery and converts down to the 12+V to power those systems and keep the 12v battery topped off. Same operation as an alternator on a non-hybrid/EV, just fully solid state and not reliant on the ICE. It operates in EV modes as well. There is no direct way to actually charge the traction battery to a significant degree while driving. There is a 'button dance' with the EV mode button that can be done to inch the charge level up but charging from the ICE alone is inefficient. For a number of reasons, it is usually recommended when driving over 50mph or on the highway/freeway to switch to EV Later mode. This will save the current plug-in charge for use later and drop back to hybrid operation. There's also no official way to upgrade the battery capacity. A few owners have hinted at trying to hack something together, but nothing has come of it. The vast majority of owners don't care to attempt it and are happy with the range they get. The C-Max does get noticeably less fuel efficiency than the Prius. Most consider it a worthwhile tradeoff for being a little more comfortable and having a bit more pep than a Prius would. As far as range goes, being a 2013 it could have a degraded battery depending on how the previous owner(s) took care of it. Unfortunately due to poor programming on Ford's part, it is very easy to inadvertently degrade the battery if you 'just drive' and don't take proactive measures to prolong the battery life. Your miles of EV range could also be skewed if you JUST bought the vehicle as it will be based off recent driving, HVAC usage, ambient temp, etc.. There's a reason it is often called a 'guess-o-meter'. There is a much better and accurate way to get an idea of what battery capacity and wear you're dealing with: Fully charge the vehicle. Drive in EV mode only until the plug-in charge is depleted. Ensure the ICE does NOT run or it will skew the results. So you may want to stay off highways/freeways during this test, limit use of cabin heat (though in the current summer season, this may not be applicable), etc.. Once the plug-in charge is depleted, find a place to stop safely as soon as you can and shut off the car. You should then have a trip summary show on the dash including the kwh used. This should give a relatively accurate gauge of battery capacity. 5.5kwh is around what a brand new battery off the factory floor should have seen. 4kwh+ is still good. In the 3-ish range or below is where degradation starts to get bad.

If what you're experiencing feels like a slightly unsteady idle (not feeling like a full on misfire) on the first cold start of the ICE, I'd say this is likely normal. I know on my '13 in the past 40k miles of ownership it has behaved this way and goes away once it takes the very brief time to warm up (basically once it is able to shut off the ICE). Hasn't been an issue and still on the original transmission with no weird noises, knock on wood.

This has been discussed in a little more detail over on the CyanLabs Discord but basically they are just removing the Applink/BT connection related stuff so the current 'My Journeys' feature will be going away (hopefully once they get the EV Trip Data function working, which is solely fed data via the TCU, we'll retain essentially the same functionality. Remains to be seen given the issues going on currently). This likely also means the 'Apps' menu in Sync will be killed off, Oil life display may go away. It's unsure in details what's going to be affected especially with TCU equipped vehicles. Some features are only communicated via Bluetooth with the vehicle, others done via TCU, some may have overlap.

Mine's a 2013 but mine was done DIY and not through Ford officially. But it works just fine (at least what is functional currently. There's some missing EV Trip Data stuff across the board that is likely something Ford is working on from their end.). Another thing to keep in mind is that Ford has stopped all upgrades across the board for the time being while some software related issues are fixed.

Yeah. On these vehicles, it will only alert if there's an issue. Under normal operation with working TPMS and proper tire pressures, this is all you'll see.

Interesting. Do you happen to know which dealer in Columbus it was?

It -SHOULD- be drivable as long as it is operating in hybrid mode (I'm assuming it is with the ICE operating as such with it locked in Auto mode?). Basically, it is now operating the same as a Hybrid model C-Max as they do not have the auxiliary pump. There's a mechanical fluid pump spun by the ICE that is the same between both the Energi and Hybrid models.

Seems like it is all over the board with the C-Max depending on a number of factors. Best I can tell mine was original (2013) when it finally needed replacement here last December. Those with continuing electrical gremlins may see reduced longevity as a result. Weather/climate will also play a factor here. That said, for the OP if it is original or known to be 4-5 years old or more that's about where I'd say the low end of 'normal' battery life would be and definitely worth looking into as the culprit for sure.