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TL;DR version: Recently got lucky and found a cheap IPC/cluster module from a 17/18 C-Max with actual noted mileage below the 90k I have now. This is important because through most tools including Forscan, you can only increase odometer mileage, not decrease. Due to a number of reasons noted below, will be attempting to upgrade this and see how compatible it is, especially with some of the newer trip summary and EV bits. This kinda rolls back to the whole 4G TCU upgrade mess and having DIY'd this on my '13 which isn't officially on Ford's upgrade program. Most of the functions work beautifully, but some key features are missing such as EV Trip Data in FordPass. Having reviewed the workshop manuals numerous times over the years, I do know there's two 'gateway' modules in the C-Max: The IPC/cluster and the actual GWM/Gateway module (the OBD connector below the dash trim, not the one behind the panel next to the drivers door). Both are responsible in varying degrees to bridge messages between CAN networks. Part of this includes data from the powertrain related modules on the HS-CAN and HEV-CAN networks ultimately over to I-CAN where the TCU/modem lies. First try will be the IPC if only because there are other secondary reasons I want to try it. Then I'll move to the GWM which should be a much simpler and cheaper process. This led me to the wild and educated guess that there could be out of date modules, being a 2013, that could be interfering. And I decided to just try it for the hell of it and see what goes. Minimum I should be able to resell modules at a small loss which doesn't bother me much at the prices I'm looking at. Secondary reason is just to see if any of the newer IPC functions on the later model years are backwards compatible. I know some toggles that some people reference such as being able to turn DRLs on/off or disable parking sensors from the IPC menu will not be there. That's down to the BCM which has not and likely will not be updated anytime soon since it is a mission critical module and I'm not willing to brick my daily driver. But more importantly the info like the EV usage breakdown of propulsion vs ambient temp vs climate use is something I'm curious about. Got the IPC in today much earlier than expected. Likely won't be able to do anything with it until the weekend as a family member has my car while theirs is in the shop. But I'll report back when I have any new info to report.

Doesn't exist in earlier model years. Many of those toggles in the IPC don't exist nor can they be enabled. I've tried to add a bunch of these on my 2013 and even when enabled they do not appear. The BCM is too old and not capable of surfacing these toggles.

? On top of this note, a dealer can also do this for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself. Should only be the cost of a half hour or hour labor depending on their minimum charge.

EDIT: Removing post. Same OP from the other thread linked on the same topic.

Plug type matters. Our cars can only handle L1/L2 AC charging via the J1772 connector. L3 or DC charging via either CCS or Chademo connectors will not work and no adapters exist that will make it work. Although not explicitly asked about, Tesla connectors are a weird beast. Superchargers are L3/DC and likewise are impossible to use with the C-Max. There are adapters out there that will allow you to use Tesla 'Destination chargers' or home chargers as they do J1772 internally and are L1/L2 AC. But these are the only cases where that's possible. There was a rumor going around some years back that newer model destination/home chargers were dropping the J1772 compatibility but I'm not sure how that panned out. More technical explanation: L1/L2 AC charging involves the car having an onboard charger built into the vehicle. What you plug in whether it is your included L1 'granny charger' or a public L2 one, they are glorified extension cords with some safety features. Power is fed directly from the grid to the vehicle and the onboard charger does the job of converting that so it can be fed to the battery. L3/DCFC bypasses any onboard chargers and connects straight to the battery. The actual 'charger' that converts grid AC power to DC is in the big industrial fridge sized units that sit near the EVSEs somewhere. This bypasses the onboard charger but the vehicle needs to specifically support it. The C-Max as well as many PHEVs do not. The only current PHEV I'm aware of that can is the Mitsubishi Outlander.

As others have already pointed out, and just summarizing here: The C-Max is not officially rated for towing. Some owners have done some light towing but it is absolutely at your own risk. There are hitches available but are generally designed for use for stuff like bike racks, cargo racks, etc.. Also those from reputable companies will usually have a note saying that your vehicle's tow rating takes precedence over what they list as the rating for the hitch. For example, this is from Torklift's site for the Ecohitch model that I personally have on my 2013: As far as the button on the gearshift, @homestead nailed it. It's just for helping maintain speed going downhill and isn't tied to any towing capability or lack thereof. This button exists on many Ford vehicles including those never intended to tow.

From what I'm seeing, this error code indicates the ABS module saw above 17v power supplied. It's also listed as a historic code in your picture so likely temporary and if it was ever jump started, the process could have triggered this code. U3003:17 - Ford Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis (dtcdecode.com) Related to this code, you could try clearing it out and try getting the ICE to start again. May also be worth verifying what voltage you are getting on the 12v/LV side to make sure it is in spec. The highest that you should be seeing while running is up in the high 14s. Anything 15 or higher is bad. On the opposite end, nothing below 12v should be seen while running. By 'running' I mean when the vehicle is on/Ready to Drive. The ICE does not need to be running to see active charging voltages. Do you have any other codes? CEL light on? Wrench light? If the ICE is legitimately not wanting to run, the vehicle should have more telltales going on telling you something is wrong and why. Also being a hybrid and seeing the battery gauge up that high is indicating the ICE has been supplying power somewhere to recharge it. If you're just relying on the assumption the ICE will start when you turn the key/press the start button, it likely won't do so at such a high charge level. As a quick test, with the vehicle 'on' and in Ready to Drive mode: While remaining in Park, press the accelerator down and hold it (doesn't need to be all the way to the floor but does need to be depressed to some degree). This should force the ICE to start and run if all is operating well. That's about all that I can input on this without more details such as any additional codes, lights on the dash, and especially more detailed info on how the vehicle is behaving when you try or expect the ICE to run.

Just as an FYI, this is specifically the ACM which is a separate module from the Sync system/APIM. It's well known on these vehicles and possibly some other models. Ford has a TSB for this same exact concern on the Fusion. The fuse pull noted above is a temporary workaround but will get things operating again for an undetermined period of time. For a full fix, the calibration/firmware on the ACM needs to be updated. The dealer may balk at this considering nothing has been officially documented for the C-Max (likely a combination of low production volume and of so many people just using the fuse pull workaround and never getting it properly diagnosed/fixed for them to document) but you can have them look up info for the Fusion and they should be able to locate the info on this. SSM46440 Ford Technical Service Bulletin (tsbsearch.com) C-Max specific TSB:

Yep. The only time the turning radius has bothered me personally has been maybe two or three times tops in my ~6 years of ownership now. As far as the WHY? My semi-educated guess is something mechanical may be restricting how far the steering components can travel. I bet if one had access to a lift and checked it out from underneath, all underbody covers removed of course, while turning lock to lock you could probably get an idea if there's something there getting in the way. I would do this myself but don't have access to a lift. I've wanted to get a set of those 'sled' style compact lifts for home garages but they are quite a bit out of my price range.

No worries on the late reply. I've been a bit MIA here and other boards as well the past couple months dealing with other life matters. Appreciate the info though! I'll then see if I can get that sheet updated with this extra info. As far as the AC light, that's still an 'issue' if you can call it that. There's a jailbreak mod available to fix it though if one was inclined to go that route. For anyone else reading, I absolutely will not discuss JB stuff further than this for reasons. It's up to you to go track down on your own.

Unless you have other battery drain issues, I wouldn't worry too much about the 12v battery and cold weather. Unlike traditional ICE only vehicles, these only use a comparatively tiny amount of juice from the 12v battery to start. It's just used long enough to get all the computer modules woken up and running. If the ICE needs to spin over, that is done by the HVB. And likewise just as a note since it trips some new owners up who aren't familiar with hybrid vehicles: No alternator in these. Instead there's a solid state DC-DC converter which takes power from the HVB and converts down to the 12+V for the 12v battery and auxillary systems. This is in full operation any time the vehicle is in Ready to Drive mode (the green vehicle indicator with the arros on the dash) whether the ICE is running or not. Also as @SnowStormpointed out, plugging in an Energi model via the EVSE also has limited capabilities to charge and top up the 12v battery. Under normal operation while the HVB is charging, it'll keep the 12v battery maintained since that's needed to operate the necessary modules during this process. Once the HVB is charged, the 12v battery will continue to charge until the vehicle is satisfied that it is topped up. Once this is complete it will completely shut down and the vehicle will go to sleep. It WILL NOT initiate additional charge cycles on its own unless you actively wake the vehicle by opening a door or unplugging/replugging the EVSE. If you do want to add a battery tender, there are a couple options available: 1) Some owners have added a 12v cigar lighter plug and utilized the socket in the cargo area. This is hot at all times and gives a fused, direct feed to the 12v battery. 2) Use the jump start terminals under the hood. You'll only be able to use the 'alligator clamp' style connections here. 3) You can dig in and attach leads to the 12v battery directly. You will want to make sure this is wired up AFTER the current sensors installed on the factory leads. This will allow the vehicle to be aware of the energy you are putting in and manage the battery accordingly. I have a thread where I detailed an inverter install and there are pictures showing where I wired it up which may be helpful:

The TCU is still needed for Value Charging and Go Times features to function if those are in use. This remains the case with the old 3G modems and no cell service. While they can be unplugged, it is a royal pain to get to. It's behind the driver side trim panel in the cargo area in the back and requires taking out almost all of the trim panels in the cargo area to get that far. It's also shared with the same fuse as the APIM so removing that will disable the APIM as well. From what I have seen on various boards, there have been zero mentions of any abnormal 12v battery drain issues after the 3G shutdown or any relation to the TCU as such so at best I'd ignore that as a potential culprit except if everything else has been ruled out first.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Warning Indicator Flashes The TPMS warning indicator flashes for 70 seconds and then remains on continuously when the ignition is set to ON and the TPMS is malfunctioning. The Parameter Identification (PID) TP_STAT can be used to determine why the TPMS warning indicator is flashing. Tire Pressure Sensor Fault — The message center displays TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR FAULT when a TPMS sensor is malfunctioning. No communication with the BCM — The TPMS warning indicator illuminates when the IPC has not received any signals from the BCM for more than 5 seconds. The message center displays TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR FAULT. Tire Pressure Monitor Fault — The message center displays TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR FAULT when the TPMS is malfunctioning. TPMS Parameter Identification (PID) Definitions The BCM monitors the TPMS status. The current status can be viewed by accessing the TPMS status Parameter Identification (PID): TPMS_STAT using the scan tool. This helps identify the current system status and may aid in diagnosing the system. The Parameter Identification (PID) has 4 valid states: TPMS_STAT = SENSOR FAULT: If the BCM has not received the tire pressure data from 1 to 3 TPMS sensors for 20 minutes when vehicle speed is above 32.2 km/h (20 mph), the Parameter Identification (PID) displays SENSOR FAULT. TPMS_STAT = SYSTEM FAULT: If the BCM has not received the tire pressure data from all 4 TPMS sensors for 20 minutes when vehicle speed is above 32.2 km/h (20 mph), the Parameter Identification (PID) displays SYSTEM FAULT. TPMS_STAT = LOW: If the BCM has detected that at least 1 TPMS sensor is reporting low tire pressure, the Parameter Identification (PID) displays LOW. TPMS_STAT = ACTIVE: If the TPMS is functioning normally, the Parameter Identification (PID) displays ACTIVE. Last Warning Event Parameter Identification (PID) Definitions The TPMS uses the TPMS last warning event Parameter Identifications (PIDs) to store detailed information about the last 5 times the TPMS warning indicator was activated. These Parameter Identifications (PIDs) can be used to acquire more information about a particular TPMS event, but must be used carefully. PIDs Definition EVT1_AGE_IGN through EVT5_AGE_IGN The number of key cycles since the TPMS was activated. This Parameter Identification (PID) cycles from zero to 255 and then starts over from zero again. This can be used to determine how long ago a TPMS event occurred and the time (in key cycles) between events. EVT1_TR_LOC through EVT5_TR_LOC This is the last programmed location for the TPMS sensor identifier causing each TPMS event. Due to tire rotation, the sensor may no longer be at the original location. It is suggested that all the Parameter Identifications (PIDs) be recorded, the system retrained, and then the sensor identifier Parameter Identifications (PIDs) be used to pinpoint the actual location of each sensor. EVT1_PSI through EVT5_PSI This is the tire pressure associated with each TPMS indicator event. This can be used along with the function code to clearly identify the TPMS events that were strictly due to low pressure. It can also be used to determine when a sensor is transmitting inaccurate tire pressure. EVT1_SNSR_ST through EVT5_SNSR_ST Describes the warning status of each TPMS event by using the information received from the TPMS_STAT Parameter Identification (PID). If there is a communication concern, the status could be NORMAL. UNKNOWN NORMAL (normal operation) LOW (low pressure event) FAULT (sensor fault or system fault) EVT1_SNSR_ID through EVT5_SNSR_ID This is the identifier of the sensor involved in each TPMS event. EVT1 is the most recent event that triggered the TPMS warning indicator.

There is an option to turn it (Tire Mobility Kit) off altogether in Forscan in the IPC. Something I haven't gotten to yet on my 2013. I'll probably play with it this weekend and post in the mods thread. I need to add climate stuff there too. TPMS: Not sure if mine have ever been replaced when I've gotten new tires. If they are still original, they've been behaving just fine. Not a single blip out of it. Last I recall looking at the workshop manual, I think it had conditions for lighting or flashing the TPMS light if the sensors were inop. I'll review that again here this evening to confirm as well.

I'm gonna add one more entry to my list here shortly but would like some confirmation from 2016+ owners with Sync 3 factory: Do you guys have the climate tab in Sync with the 'popups' when you adjust the temp/fan speed/vent options? My 2013 is a retrofit so I'm not 100% sure what the factory equipped 2016+ models are configured for by default (now that I think about it, I can probably pull AsBuilts myself with whatever VINs are openly posted online). If the climate options are not enabled from the factory, they can be added and I'll dig through my AsBuilt files and post the relevant changes in the spreadsheet.

The ACM is a common 'failure' point (not a hard failure, but a software/firmware bug) on these vehicles. If the Sync system/touch screen still functioned but you couldn't do stuff like change sources/presets, adjust audio, touch screen beeps didn't come through, that's a telltale the ACM is misbehaving. And in these cases it has the potential to stay active at key-off and drain the battery because it essentially completely freezes up. The fuse 79 trick you've likely read up on is the quick workaround for this. If you want a proper fix so it will never occur again, bug your dealer to do a firmware update on it. Shouldn't cost much. It's less than 30 minutes of work and is just them plugging in their computer and doing a quick update. Ford has this issue documented in one of their TSBs on the Fusion models but it's the same exact issue and those call for a calibration/firmware update as a fix. Something you can DIY and is good practice especially with the early 2013-2015 model years is to update your Sync system/APIM to the latest software available. Sync 2/MyFord Touch which is what yours is equipped with from the factory were known to be a bit buggy in early versions and got sorted out in the last updates Ford pushed out some years ago. You can go to the site below and it will give you all the info you need to check the current version, download an update to a (GOOD, brand name!) USB flash drive, and then update the system yourself. Update Ford SYNC® & Navigation Maps | Ford Owner Support

Which audio module? What exactly is the failure mode? As much details as possible would be helpful. Are you are dealing with the VERY barebones 4" non-touch unit or the 8" touch screen, nav equipped, etc? There are two infotainment modules: The ACM and APIM. ACM is the AM/FM/CD/Sirius tuner and acts as the actual audio routing to the speakers. APIM is the Sync unit/smarts and mostly just takes care of nav, Bluetooth, and USB media and is what handles the screen whether yours is the 4" or 8" version and sends its audio to the ACM to route to the speakers. There's also a tertiary DSP/DACMC unit in these vehicles needed for the active noise cancelling feature, though in my second hand experience I have yet to see anyone note the DSP has failed. Usually something happens with the ACM or APIM and both can either be fixed/recovered or at least replaced cheaply without paying dealer prices. Usually the APIM you can find around ~$200-$300 and the ACM probably around $100-$200. Generally these cars are pretty reliable mechanically and will likely treat you well for a long time. There are some potential transmission issues in the 2013-early 2016 model years, but Energi's seem to be spared more than hybrid models in this area. And the average mileage for most who DO run into issues seems to be around the 100k mark so take all of that as you will. I have a '13 Energi myself creeping up on 90k miles and it's mostly been basic maintenance with no big ticket repairs to speak of. Ultimately I won't say yay or nay for whether or not to keep the vehicle, but myself as well as other members can at least give some insights.

Probably the thing I'd recommend is reviewing the section of the owners manual that covers bulb replacements. Ford's instructions are quite clear on the process. Here's a PDF from the 2017 manual. Page 237 covers it. Untitled (fordservicecontent.com) From there it is up to you if you feel comfortable tackling it.

Probably the easiest method is to look for some high brightness halogen bulbs. They exist under different brands and seem to be often branded as a bright white or 'Ultra white' bulb. If the bulbs are factory you could also try just a standard set and see if the brightness improves. Old bulbs can become dim over time. Do NOT buy into the LED hype. Replacing halogen bulbs with LEDs is a BAD idea for safety reasons. The housings are not designed to aim LED bulbs properly and doing so can cause you to blind other drivers. You might have experienced this yourself where you come upon an older vehicle with suspiciously bright/blue or white tinted headlamps with tons of glare. This is why. For the sake of others on the road, don't be that person.

Jumping back in on this here. I know I haven't worked on or updated this much. Unfortunately I lack the energy or extra time these days to really put any focus on it. I'm going to open up the spreadsheet to comments rather than being view only. I'd open it completely but don't want to deal with the potential headache of randos coming in and wrecking it. If anyone else feels like they'd want to take it over completely, let me know and I'd be happy to 'pass the torch'. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Tir9hvuLDii0yonGJR3FoyfKzNODT_PZCPZH6Ph9dz8/edit?usp=sharing I'm going to add an extra modification to the list now regarding the 'Next Charge' screen which is VERY handy. I'm also going to try and add some photos in too of some of these changes when I get a free moment.

Ok. Got a form set up. I'm hoping I got all the useful data in here. If anyone has suggestions for other data points to add, let me know. I think for the sake of correlating battery capacity to age/mileage this is sufficient. Feel free to share this around. I'm gonna post this over on the FB Energi group, the Fusion Energi forums, and also the C-Max subreddit as those I have immediate access to. https://forms.gle/HkxTZ3Eoqi83r8xW9

The one thing that makes me curious about this, bouncing off your comment on doing it when replacing the battery: With the older NiMH based Fusion hybrids (2010-2012) had been found to have a hard artificial time limit that severely reduced the usable capacity of the battery and rolling back the clock on these has been well documented to bring them back to being usable again. My memory's a bit fuzzy but I think this even got documented on Ford's end too. So it would be interesting to see if there's any correlation with our newer vehicles as well. I'm gonna see if maybe I can do up some survey/form for people to fill out some good details to compare against like model (C-Max or Fusion), model year, manufacture date, mileage, tested battery capacity, etc.. Just to satisfy my own curiosity.

Just seeing this post now. But I got this sorted on my 2013 with detailed info over here:

Looks like a new reply to the thread with some updated data has been posted. Not terribly conclusive unfortunately so I'm personally still a bit wary of this change, especially these being Li-Ion based batteries and being particularly picky with how they are handled. But if you want to believe the posted results, changing the battery age does seem to have the potential to increase available battery capacity. YMMV. I'd be very interested in seeing if anyone else attempts this and can post more concrete findings (such as the proper battery capacity test which it seems hasn't been done in the linked thread). Unfortunately this being my daily driver I am VERY wary of messing with the programming for a key part of the vehicle that could potentially brick it and rack up a multi-thousand dollar repair.

This is what I pulled from my '13's owners manual. For the sake of the search engine: Engine coolant - Hybrid model: 7.4 quarts (7L) Engine coolant - Energi model: 8.8 quarts (8.3L) Inverter system controller cooant: 1.1 quarts (1L)