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Given the previous modems used in these earlier model years from the factory were 2G (we did have a recall a few years back to upgrade to these 3G modems) and the nature of what's being transferred, 2G is more than enough for these TCU's for sure. Roaming's going to be a big 'ol question mark for sure and I'm definitely not going to hoping on it in any way, purely as a 'Huh? Interesting' kind of thing. And I'm not even going to try and guess how that's all set up with the lines/accounts tied to these TCU's. As an example, I'm a T-Mobile postpaid user and here in the US while I can technically roam on AT&T, they've specifically restricted it to certain areas/towers. So it can get pretty specific if they want and with a major company like Ford, the carriers I'm sure can set it up however they want.

Saw an H series Escape TCU posted to eBay this morning and jumped on it so should have that soon hopefully. Though I think I'm also going to take the route of waiting to see what happens with the existing TCU and MFM before I jump in on the upgrade. I imagine with AT&T it's going to be a gradual shutdown of their 3G network starting from the Feb 22nd date. I'm also equally curious if these units have been enabled for roaming (I think they are in some capacity? I know I've seen mention previously of people being able to go to Mexico or Canada or vice-a-versa and still have functionality on their carriers). T-Mobile while their 3G network is shutting down not long after AT&T's (April '22), their 2G network is remaining up for longer (Jan '23) which in theory these should be backwards compatible with as are most cellular modem chips these days especially these older 3G only ones. With the TCU PIDs, they do show the MCC/MNC numbers which will identify the carrier in use so it should be easy to tell if that ever comes to pass.

As we've noted earlier in this thread: If you're on an older version of Sync (Sync 2 or Sync 3.3 or older), this is going to be expected and is just hardcoded text in the Sync system but it's just referring to the currently active 'mobile app' which would be FordPass. If you update to Sync 3.4 (this can't be done officially, must be done through something like Cyanlabs' Syn3Updater), it'll then reference FordPass. However that is not required and your existing Sync version should cooperate with FordPass just fine. As an example, my 2013 was swapped to Sync 3 and I've updated to 3.4. Still using MFM with the 3G TCU. Sync refers to the FordPass app on all relevant screens even though they function and update properly with MFM. Regarding what to do next, given the FordPass people have stated they are looking into it and working on it, I'd leave it be and wait. As someone who works customer service/tech support, if they're admitting to work being done on their end likely it is completely legitimate and it wouldn't surprise me. Probably still a lot of kinks to work out on the backend for this new transition process. Especially considering all of the existing plug-in vehicles in Ford's stable were never on FordPass prior to this and all used MFM. The dealer would likely be of no help either at this stage. Most they'd probably be able to do is reset the TCU/APIM, reflash things, and that'd be about it. If it's not in their IDS system or workshop manuals, there's not much else they can do especially from what is largely a software and backend FordPass thing.

Just had a chance to review your AsBuilt against mine this morning and the only differences are the change to disable Nav that you made and the amount of parking sensors, neither of which should interfere. Everything else including all the Hybrid/plug-in bits are set accordingly. So rules that out as a culprit at least. Beyond that and if the TCU is behaving otherwise, I'm not really sure. ? If any other attempts you make to resolve this don't work, a long shot may be to check out the community over at Cyanlabs and inquire about this there. Folks there are a lot more familiar with APIM stuff and may at least have more troubleshooting to try. CyanLabs Official Community - CyanLabs Official Community

Don't have a direct download link to provide for 2.2, but you should be able to jump straight to 3.0 with Ford's official method using a USB flash drive (Wifi tends to be unreliable for updates). I don't believe it is needed to jump to an intermediate version like this? In any case, here's Ford's site for help with the USB update process and it should get you going: Ford Support | Update Your SYNC® System with a Flash Drive In lieu of that, I can't recommend the Syn3Updater tool by Cyanlabs rnough. This is another method to generate a USB flash drive to update Sync 3. Still uses Ford's official files, but tends to be a little more reliable. As a bonus, this can update you to 3.4.x whereas Ford won't officially upgrade you past 3.3.x on our model years. 3.4 does tend to be more stable and performant and is still getting regular updates as of this writing. If you do go through with Syn3Updater, please read their directions thoroughly to ensure you have no issues. They also have a friendly community that can help out if needed. Syn3 Updater - CyanLabs

While this is what Ford has as the factory AsBuilt, if you can verify what is loaded in the APIM currently that would be helpful just to be 100% sure and rule out if anything didn't get written correctly when you updated the new unit. I'll still take a look at this OASIS info when I have a chance. EDIT: Also, if you can go to the About screen in Sync and verify if it has the TCU ESN listed? As best as I can tell, the Value Charge and Go Times functions are specifically operated inside the TCU even if you configure them in the vehicle and not the app/site. If the TCU is not communicating with the APIM (which would be confirmed by the TCU ESN not showing), this could also be the cause. But just an educated guess on my part.

The whole Android Auto issue you're referring to is a red herring. The incompatibility is only for the use of the Applink/journey recording feature in the app which for most is practically useless and especially for us with the TCU providing most of that functionality. Go into the FordPass app, go to Account > Settings > Journey Recording and turn off the 'Journey Settings' option. This will allow Android Auto to function and the connected/TCU functionality in FordPass should remain unaffected.

Can you dump the AsBuilt for your current APIM? I can do some comparing against mine and see if there's anything out of place there that may be impacting it.

Reading further into the full bulletin document and inferring what it is stating, here's what I'm seeing (highlighted in the screenshot below): The primary purpose of this program seems to be to cover those vehicles still within the trial period for MyFord Mobile so as to ensure the owners can continue to be covered and maintain use for the duration of the trial. It does seem to indicate those no longer in the trial and outside of the windows noted in the bulletin (ie: 2013 models) can still get in on this, they just won't receive a notice and our VINs won't be on the lists referenced in the bulletin. Yet another guess on my part: It may take some prodding for dealers to be aware of this and many may just be relying solely on the supplied VIN lists and years noted. Going back to square one: If anyone's got a 2013 and is successful in getting this upgrade through their dealer, it'd be awesome to know! So far I've been unsuccessful through official channels as they seem to only look at what programs are specifically posted for my vehicle.

1) The main reason for the model unit above from the Escape for some of our C-Max model years is they still support the I-CAN bus used in the early model years which is needed. Newer vehicles and other models potentially move off of that to a few separate HS-CAN buses which aren't plug-and-play. Not sure how the MKX fares with this. It would require digging into wiring diagrams for your vehicle and model year to determine what CAN buses are used for the TCU. 2) We don't know about the activation stuff. It's highly likely there is some activation needed on the dealer end for a brand new module, but it is uncertain. The F-150 forums may be the best source of info on that for now and just keep tabs on if anyone over there does a retrofit with the official brand new TCU. I do appreciate the info on the kit. If you don't mind, I'm gonna add it to the OP. EDIT: As far as the part number you provided and what I've gathered from other sites, that's an internal only part number and would not be able to be used through the parts site or potentially a dealer parts desk. Based off of the full bulletin PDF and taking a wild guess, the full kit may only be available through this specific program. It could be possible to track down JUST the TCU on its own and order that outside of the kit if someone who's had it done can supply the TCU model number. This can easily be pulled from ForScan with no disassembly of the vehicle if anyone is interested in providing that info.

That should be pretty clear just based on location of the sound. The evap leak test you'll hear from the rear of the vehicle in about the same place you hear the charging fan from when plugged in (if an Energi model). If it is anything up front in the engine compartment, it isn't that. From the engine compartment, the list of parts that could make noise without the vehicle running are the vacuum pump for the brakes, ICE water pump, aux water pump for EV heating use (this is another Energi only thing), the aux transmission fluid pump (Energi only), and the cooling pump for the hybrid inverter. For the items in the engine compartment, here's the rough locations: ICE Water pump and aux water pump: Passenger side Vacuum pump, aux transmission fluid pump, and hybrid inverter cooling pump: Driver side. It has been noted previously, though I don't have any threads to link to atm, that it isn't terribly uncommon (and not common either) for water to ingress in some of the harnesses and short some of the connectors causing things to run continuously even at key-off. I think the most common part to experience this is the ICE water pump if memory serves.

Nav vs non-nav shouldn't affect value charging. The vehicle will have a GPS receiver regardless of whether it was equipped for navigation or not. If your EV+ feature is enabled and is still reliably triggering near your home or other frequent destinations, that's a good sign the GPS receiver is still functioning correctly. What model year is your C-Max? If '15 or earlier, do you still have Sync 2/MyFord Touch or did you upgrade to Sync 3? And what does 'broken' mean regarding the Value Charge feature? As a side note regarding your antenna note: Something that has also been on the agenda for me is attempting to moving to a fully integrated sharkfin antenna. On some other Ford vehicles, the newer sharkfin style antennas have everything integrated: AM/FM/SiriusXM/GPS/LTE. Once I can get the TCU upgraded, I'll probably look into it a bit further. So far I've preferred to keep my C-Max pretty stock with just a few stock/factory quality of life upgrades. First one was already done and that's the Sync 3 upgrade. TCU is next. The sharkfin antenna upgrade I need to look more into as it's gonna require some extra wiring for the GPS and LTE signals. Upgrading the ACM has been on my radar. The newer ACM's from '19 and newer vehicles have finally moved from the old Sirius tuners to the new SiriusXM tuners so audio quality and channel selection are greatly improved. And supposedly they can finally display album art on SiriusXM and HD Radio channels. So far it seems like these are -almost- plug and play. A few wires on the wiring harness need to be re-pinned and of course some Asbuilt changes, but a few people seem to have accomplished the swap on earlier model years.

I would definitely check other dealerships. That's about double what people are being quoted elsewhere on average. ($300 or thereabouts is the minimum I've seen, upwards of $400-500 is about the max I've seen quoted)

Haven't done the DIY upgrade yet, but plan to give it a go at some point with my '13 Energi. Biggest headache right now is trying to track down the correct TCU. Almost all being sold on eBay look to be 3G based on the FCC/IMEI info.

You can grab the asbuilt data specific to your VIN from Ford. Index - FordServiceInfo.Com (motorcraftservice.com)

All covered in your owners manual: It's unknown why it doesn't open exactly (very well could have a DTC stored for it), but the reason it has to wait is to relieve the pressure from the tank first obviously. It has to do that and verify the pressure in the tank has dropped before it'll open the filler door.

Sounds like you potentially do have a leak somewhere that would need to be tracked down. Should be able to fill it up beyond the MIN mark easily and in theory should be able to fill the bottle up to the cap (obviously not recommended). It's designed to be a sealed reservoir and pressurized by the cooling system when full hot.

It could be a number of reasons between of many C-Max's not reaching the quoted change interval , some DIY'ing it, the low volume that are on the road, people just not bothering (coolant systems tend to be neglected by many IMO until something fails), etc.. The $150 per system doesn't seem unreasonable for a dealer. Also I'd verify the dealers you spoke with are EV certified. You can check my post here. I've posted copies of the instructions laid out in the service manual for coolant replacement/fill for the two systems.

4.8kwh is definitely in acceptable range (and you may see higher numbers when it warms up!) and at that mileage. Around 5.5-5.6kwh is brand new. If the price is right and the rest of the car checks out, it sounds like a solid vehicle.

It may be that this button does not exist unless you have the power liftgate option. Per images I'm seeing on later '17 and '18 models, the button would exist in the same place as earlier model years along the row of buttons below the climate controls such as the park sensor toggle, park assist, and the passenger airbag light.

So brought back my '13 from the dealer after getting the 12v replaced. Service advisor found nothing on file for the upgrade after prodding about it and recommended I call their parts desk back on occasion to check in on it so not quite happy about that result. Good thing is as noted in the original post: It has been confirmed that DIY upgrades are possible with TCU's from newer vehicles that are 4G capable. Catch is that there is a potential model year cutoff that I am unsure of the details for where the specific CAN bus that is used by the TCU has migrated from I-CAN to HS3 and can make some incompatible. Per the user on the MFM forums that has done this, his is a '14 C-Max with a TCU pulled from a '16 Escape, Part # HJ5T-14G087-UF. In theory the CAN bus lines should be the same between '13s and '14s. Beyond that I am unsure of what changes possibly exist in later model years. At this point I'm assuming I'll ultimately be going the DIY route.

Ultimately if it is being parked over the summer, what I'd do is charge the HVB up to about 50% to 80%, no higher. You'll need to monitor and do this manually as I noted above. Unplug and leave it when it reaches this point. Then hook up a battery maintainer to the 12v battery and leave it be. Should be no need to set it on a timer unless you want to for energy consumption reasons. The 12v battery is going to be a bit more resilient and a proper battery maintainer is going to keep it in an optimal state and are designed to be run consistently for long term storage.

1) Yes. When plugged in it will maintain the 12v battery up to a point. Part of the charging procedure is once the HVB is finished charging, it'll continue to top off the 12v battery until it is deemed full. However I do believe once this has happened, it stops monitoring until something else 'wakes up' the vehicle like Go Times, remote starting, opening a door, etc.. Sitting over summer it'll probably just charge once during the initial HVB charge cycle and then stop there. 2) From a technical standpoint, yes. However during this time the EVSE is maintaining the 12v battery charge. This cooling fan is for the actual internal charging system for the HVB. 3) The particular cooling fan you hear while charging only runs during that time. It does not run while unplugged or when the vehicle is being driven. As noted above, it is just for the charging system. Additionally, the actual cooling fans for the battery do not operate normally during charging. They only operate while the vehicle is being driven (as requested by the vehicle programming). There's ways to trick it to run during charging (Namely you plug it in while the vehicle is still running and then shut it off. The cooling fan will continue to operate as needed while the charge cycle is active. It is my understanding once the charge cycle ends, all of this resets so the battery cooling fan will not run on a subsequent charge cycle. I'm not 100% on this though.) 4) Not that I am aware of short of just manually monitoring and managing it yourself. Supposedly with the 4G modem upgrades and the move to the FordPass app instead of MyFordMobile adds a charge level restriction setting, but it is unconfirmed if it actually works for the C-Max since MFM never had that feature and the vehicle may not be programmed to take advantage of it. 5) Same. However the vehicle has intelligent battery monitoring and management for the 12v battery so it's not going to overcharge/cook the 12v battery being plugged in a lot. If the charge controller acts as a battery maintainer, you could easily work with that. With outboard chargers, I'd worry about ensuring they are designed to maintain the battery and not just act as a simple charger/jump starter. Worst case, you can buy an actual battery maintainer almost anywhere that will be more than sufficient for this purpose.

It's my understanding from those on the F150 forums doing FordPass retrofits on their trucks that the FordPass servers do take some time to fully activate and are not immediate. MyFord Mobile was also that way as I recall in the early days with the 3G modem recall. Give it a couple days after adding your car to the app and if it still doesn't activate/functions don't return, then you can bug Ford/your dealer about it.

Don't rely on the miles of range! The vehicle is simply guessing and you will get lower numbers in colder climates or if your driving previously was more 'intense'. Go by the actual SOC/% as listed under the Charge Settings screen. You can 'guess' yourself a little bit by the battery charge indicator in FordPass and how much it is filled in. More than likely it has charged to 100% each time, but you're focusing on the miles listed. My curiosity is more if you set it at a lower percentage, ie: 50% to 80%, and if the C-Max will properly stop at those levels per the actual SOC %.