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I believe for the tire pressure stuff that much like the old TCU's and MyFord Mobile, with these H series TCU's it's only going to alert you if tire pressures are low but won't go into more detail. Supposedly, based on info on the F150 forums Sync Connect retrofit thread, the Hotspot equipped J/K TCU's will show individual tire pressures. There IS a trick that someone made me aware of in the CyanLabs Discord where you can pull in more detailed info than what the app shows through the Ford website. Unfortunately with no data being populated on mine yet, this trick is also unavailable to me. But you may have better luck @David_Tucker4: OTA Update Status Hidden in the Ford Website | MachEforum - Ford Mustang Mach-E Forum, News, Owners, Discussions I did notice the Oil Life icon pop up on mine as well. Still no data though just yet.

Basically just keep tabs on the usual sources like eBay and such. If you have a favorite local junkyard you can see if they can source specific part #'s. Your local Ford parts department may also be able to source them at full retail cost, though at this time they may be backordered. Based on the DIY work done so far here, what we know works are module part #'s HJ5T-14G087-** (the last two digits shouldn't matter in theory). So far a few were confirmed pulled from 2017 Escapes so that may be an additional route to look. There may be others out there but nothing else has been confirmed. I'll say that when I was looking for mine, they were very hard to locate just looking on eBay alone. I got lucky that someone had posted one out of the blue that they were getting rid of because they traded in before they could upgrade their own vehicle.

Mine's running 3.4.21265 (latest 'bleeding edge' release available via CyanLabs' Syn3Updater). After setting the default VC profile in Sync yesterday (none of if is functional in the app yet), it seemed to do the job exactly as intended last night. Here's a graph of power usage. My VC times are set to charge between 12am through 8am both Weekends and Weekdays. I arrived home and plugged in right about that 4:30pm mark. This was also with my plug-in charge fully depleted which I know with the old TCU is hit or miss if it decides to follow the VC profile or not on initial plugin.

Small update. A lot of stuff is still missing in the FordPass app for me, patiently waiting. Can't set preferred charge times just yet in the app as it's not registering any locations yet. HOWEVER, it did allow me to adjust the default profile in Sync and it seems to be following it. Set it outside of the current time and did that just as I pulled in my garage. Plugged in and it only had an initial spike of 2-300w and dropped down to under 50w and hasn't budged. So that seems to be functional and I can be patient for the locations and the remaining functions in FordPass to show.

Looks like 754-02-01 is different from what @bakedpatato and I have set. Going to see about updating my AsBuilt config to match yours on my lunch break today and see if anything changes.

Another thing that crossed my mind in all this especially given this was originally a C-Max 'hybrid' forum is that potentially this DIY process should (in theory) work for those with hybrid models that were never equipped with a TCU. Just a hunch, but should be doable. These are the bullet points I'm thinking that may come up in the process: Really only going to be useful if your vehicle is already factory equipped with remote start. Not all hybrid models were if memory serves compared to Energi's. Adding the TCU won't automatically add remote start functionality, it relies on the vehicle already being equipped with it. It goes without saying, but aftermarket remote start systems likely will not apply here unless they specifically enabled the built in factory functionality. Technically it could work without remote start, but you wouldn't get many useful features out of FordPass otherwise. Not sure if the existing TCU harness connection in the rear exists on hybrid models. Big question mark here. Many vehicles across different manufacturers leave these unused connectors to save cost on a single harness type rather than building different harnesses for different features being equipped. Not sure if this applies in this scenario. THAT said, if it does not exist, tapping into an existing CAN bus line somewhere should also be viable. Many over in the F150 forums who have retrofitted TCU's have done this where the factory connector was not there. AsBuilt configurations definitely need to be modified. APIM does have a 'TCU Equipped' setting that will likely need to be toggled. The TCU also has an 'Engine type' option that'll need to be properly configured for hybrid only vehicles. A few of us have mentioned the B842 coding. For the hybrid only models, this will likely need to be set to B342 based on CyanLabs' AsBuilt databases. (B applies to Sync 3 equipped vehicles, A should apply to Sync 2). Definitely interested in seeing if anyone who owns a hybrid model is interested in going through with this and how it goes.

I'm still waiting on everything to populate on my end. I did do a fresh activation (removed the vehicle from FordPass, Master Reset, put the TCU into factory mode and re-did that whole process) after the successful calibration update this past Thursday just to play it safe. So far all of the tools and functions in the app are showing but non-functional or with blank data. Remote start/lock/unlock functions work beautifully though. I'm still going to be patient with it. Just seems like FordPass is having a rough time lately. Having functional remote start/lock/unlock in the app were my biggest things so them working is fine for now. ?

Mine was about the same. My '13 had its battery replaced here back in December after it finally started giving up the ghost and required a jump start one day (also had some other telltale signs such as my IPC blanking out briefly on startup or the 'System off to save battery' message appearing briefly on startup). Best I could tell based on the internal battery age counter in the vehicle is it was possibly the one from the factory. At worst it was at least 4 1/2 years old or more as that's how long I've owned it and I haven't had the battery replaced in that time period.

Ok. Just confirmed the secondary user setup with FordPass and works exactly how the excerpts above state. Second user will set up their own FordPass account and add the VIN to the app. It'll pop up stating it's already been activated by another user and offer to request authorization from the primary user. In the primary user's app it'll have the option either in a small alert box or the message center to authorize the user. Once authorized, the FordPass app for the second user shows everything as expected.

Ok. Looks like there's a similar delegation process in FordPass based on this FAQ. TL;DR (if I'm reading this correctly): If the vehicle is already active on an existing FordPass account, a secondary unique account can add the VIN and the authorization request will come through the app vs another authorization in the vehicle. FordPass Connect Frequently Asked Questions | All-State Ford Truck Sales (allstateford.com) Also: How do I request access to an authorized vehicle in the FordPass App? And for all intents and purposes, our vehicles will now fall under the 'FordPass Connect' functionality and processes.

Yeah, I'm also not quite sure on the details. It's basically just been brief mentions from other people saying they were able to set it up under multiple separate accounts. I know with MyFord Mobile there was that delegation process where you added a second approved and registered user as another driver on the primary account. Haven't seen anything like that in FordPass though. But definitely something I'm going to investigate further.

It's been my understanding based on what I've seen posted about the FordPass app that it should be possible for another user to have their own account and add the vehicle as well, thus having it on two separate FordPass accounts. This is also something I want to try and confirm myself as I do have a use for this and would like to not share an account if possible. I'm just waiting for everything to finally populate in the app on my end before I give that a try. EDIT: Looks like today's going to be the best day weather-wise here over the next few days so I'll be doing the calibration update on my unit later this afternoon. Will probably also adjust my AsBuilt per the information @bakedpatato has in his and see how it all goes.

Just to be sure, can you remove the saved profile in ForScan (if you have one) and have it rescan everything? This'll make sure it gets a clean slate scan of the modules in the vehicle. If it still shows up as the GM5T-* part number after this, that is a clear indication that you're still on the old modem. I haven't heard of any software issues or glitches that would cause ForScan to report the wrong part #.

No. The 3G shutdown won't affect the radio, navigation, or other in vehicle functions. What you are seeing is the common issue of the ACM (Audio Control Module, handles the AM/FM/Sirius tuners and audio routing to the speakers) freezing. Pull fuse 79 in the passenger side fuse box under the glove compartment for a minute or two to reset. A proper fix for this is to have your dealer update the ACM. Other Ford models have had TSBs for this same issue calling to update it as the proper fix.

Cool. That's the exact one I have so hopefully that bodes well for a shorter process. Originally a 5h time was mentioned, then bakedpatato mentioned 3h with the VCX Nano. So far without this update, all the other stats are slowly filling in to the app like expected. I'm now seeing the placeholders for odometer, location, EV charge, and fuel level though they're all blank.

Strategy HJ5T-14G139-UM should be available on through Ford's site: DSFM File Download (dealerconnection.com) SBL and Calibration should also be available that way as well. Also, what OBD adapter did you use for that update? 2 hours is pretty good. I think @bakedpatato mentioned using a VCX Nano and took about 3h.

Awesome to hear! We also got confirmation thanks to @bakedpatato that this was also resolved on his DIY install with the updated UM calibration. Just took an extra 24h for FordPass to update. So ultimately it looks like the DIY solution is finally viable. I'll probably try doing the calibration update on mine this next weekend as well and be able to confirm that. Also tagging @David_Tucker4 since he is the other DIYer here and mentioned potentially doing the calibration update.

Concerning the calibration update, @bakedpatato has went through with this per some ongoing discussions in the CyanLabs Discord. About a 3 hour process to update the calibration to the TCU. This has confirmed the new UM calibration works on these older units not officially designated for this upgrade. However at first blush it looks like nothing has changed on the VC/Go Times front. I'm sure if anything changes, he'll let us know. Thanks for the info on the antenna though. Not gonna lie, I've probably forgotten a lot of key info in this thread after trying to keep tabs on many different sites for information regarding all this upgrade mess. lol. As long as the antenna works though and the open circuit code is harmless, I'll probably live with it for the time being. Gives me more of an excuse later to try the sharkfin antenna upgrade. I did get some video footage of my install (which I'm going to try and edit and post here in the next few days) and looks like the antenna was securely plugged in so it's probably just the TCU being picky about the ground or something else. I know with the Sync 3 upgrades, the APIM can also be a bit picky about aftermarket GPS antennas with similar DTC's produced.

Finished my DIY upgrade today. Everything went fairly smooth and the basic remote start/lock/unlock functions work. I probably need to go back in and check the antenna as I'm getting a DTC for an open circuit. May not have securely plugged it in. Signal level's still showing about 40-45 inside my garage though. At least I should be able to just pry the panel right behind the rear driver side door and reach in and ensure it's fully plugged in. All the usual stuff otherwise that's been seen by everyone else. No Value Charge/Go Times. Won't save/toggle in Sync, can't adjust them in FordPass. No statuses like fuel/charge level showing yet. Literally just the remote functions are there at the moment but I'll give it some time. TCU's showing fully authorized and operational.

Awesome. This info matches the info that was posted recently on the CyanLabs Discord from an official upgrade for the Part #, Calibration, and Strategy levels. Thank you for providing this info! It's possible the UM strategy can be flashed to the older units. It appears these are all simply refurbed older units. It is a 'big' 45MB file though which would line up with what @David_Tucker4 mentioned about an estimated 5 hour process. For reference, my previous ACM calibration update was about 700kB in size and that took about half an hour to complete. Again, not sure if the calibration will change anything for the DIYers. Just a guess at this point. I think we've narrowed down possibilities to either the calibration, the PMI process (that can only be done with IDS and one of the official UM units), or potentially related to the scheduled charging feature missing for Focus BEV owners (until we can confirm 100% that Value Charging functions on official upgrades).

Ok. You may want to just be patient with it for a day or two then. Sounds like FordPass for everyone across the board is being a bit glitchy right now.

If you're waiting for the activation step, there is another route that can be taken for that. A user over on the F150 forums has created a third party site that still goes through Ford but bypasses their UI and some related issues. A number of people have had better luck getting the activation to come up and go through using this vs the FordPass app: https://connectedcar-sdk.com/

So I had a 30 minute calibration update on my ACM recently and one thing I found out is it SEEMS like the built in charging module remains active. ForScan was showing around 14.8v while the flashing procedure was active and the only thing I did was have the EVSE plugged in. And I could clearly hear the charging fan running as well. YMMV of course. Didn't know it would be a whole 5 hour endeavor for the TCU though. Holy crap.

So I am lurking on the CyanLabs Discord and a user posted a pic of the official upgrade module and surprisingly it is another H series TCU like the one I have and the one @bakedpatato have on hand from '17 Escapes. The official part # posted is HJ5T-14G087-UM (mine is HJ5T-14G087-UF). This got another thought in my head and that is if there may be a differing calibration/strategy level on these? Just a wild guess as to a possible other avenue why the VC/Go Times features don't work. If those who have DIY'd it can confirm what ForScan reports on these fronts? @oldbeyondmeasure or anyone else here who has done the official upgrade can pull that info from ForScan as well, that'd be greatly appreciated. I'd be happy to help with the process if needed. For these tasks, a dirt cheap Bluetooth or USB ELM adapter will work. And for just pulling part numbers and strategies, I believe even the mobile app for ForScan will suffice. I'll definitely be reviewing that info myself once I get around to doing the install this weekend and may see if the folks over on the CyanLabs boards have any info on new strategy/calibration levels for these. Probably a long shot and dead end on the issue, but one that should at least be relatively easy to rule out. EDIT: Sounds like we should potentially have a calibration/strategy level in line for that official -UM module. Probably wouldn't be bad to still get tallies of what other part numbers show up as these appear to be rebuilt/refurbed units potentially. Maybe someone will end up with a matching UF down the line? Not sure, just more guesses.

I've responded to you in another thread with steps to do a proper battery capacity check. The 'guess-o-meter' showing the miles of range is just that and is not an accurate determination of capacity. 8 miles in cold sub-freezing temps with high climate usage can bring you down near there. Mine is just shy of 4kwh capacity and I tend to see 10-12 miles with climate set to about 67 most of the time. Which brings me to another key point as a new owner: Unlike other vehicles with more 'dumb' climate control systems, ours is a bit more intelligent. If you're used to just 'cranking the heat' and have it set to higher temps like 75 or 'HI', it will demand a lot more from the vehicle and can lower your mileage and estimated range. Lowering the temp will ease up on that. Front defrost will also significantly add to the load and loss of mileage. Driving it as a hybrid is perfectly fine. In fact early on in the life of the C-Max, a lot of them were lease vehicles and never plugged in. Second owners confirmed near new battery capacity with little degradation. In theory it should last quite a while barring no other issues. In hybrid mode there's a lot less stress on the battery and it also cycles in a much smaller range of charge that is less detrimental to its life overall.