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It just depends on your driving conditions and area. In my case personally, most of my driving is in town with speed limits that top 35-45mph with lots of lights so most of the driving can be done in EV mode. Caveat being that in the winter season I do use the ICE a LOT more due to cabin heat. I'd say the ratio is probably 80/20 ICE/EV operation. Spring/Summer/Fall are flipped for me though and I can max out my EV usage easily during those periods. Unfortunately, due to the way Ford programmed these vehicles combined with the inadequate air cooling, the above steps are almost required if you want to prolong the life of the battery. In EV Auto, it'll happily let you chew through the plug-in charge in extremely demanding conditions including driving at highway speeds and operating at damaging temperatures. I'm certainly not going to badger other owners over it if they don't follow them to the letter, but merely being informative on the subject.

7.6kwh is the full plug-in+hybrid capacity. In reality ~5.5kwh is the plug-in portion and this is what the capacity would be brand new. As a used vehicle, it very likely could be lower by now due to normal battery degradation and depending on how the previous owner drove it. The miles listed should not be relied on as it is not an accurate indicator of real battery capacity. The vehicle guesses this number based on a number of factors like recent driving habits, ambient temp, climate usage, etc.. If you want to determine the real battery capacity, do the following steps: 1) Fully charge the battery. 2) Drive the vehicle in EV mode. If in a colder climate currently try not to use heat. Anything that will force the ICE to be started will invalidate these numbers. Things that can do this are full WOT acceleration in EV Auto, high climate usage in low ambient temperatures, or using defrost (The vehicle will choose defrost in Auto mode on the climate control if it is under 32f outside, as an FYI). 3) Once the plug-in charge has been depleted and it drops into hybrid mode (ie: The battery display on the dash no longer shows the miles and switches to the 'flat' battery display), stop the vehicle somewhere safely and shut it off. The trip summary on the left screen will show the kwh used and that should be the current real capacity of the battery. Generally speaking anything over 4kwh is still good. 3+ is 'ok' but getting degraded. ==== Regarding your other notes: Regen braking is always active. Even if the plug-in charge is depleted and it is oeprating in hybrid mode. The hybrid mode still cycles the battery under normal operation as that is one of the biggest improvements in fuel economy. Regarding replacement packs, I couldn't tell you off the top of my head. I know there's a few companies who offer refurbed packs but don't have names. I can tell you that to the best of my knowledge I haven't seen anyone yet confirm they've pursued replacements that were not done under warranty (this is VERY rare in itself. Ford doesn't warranty any level of degradation, just outright failure which most owners have not run into).

Not yet. Had some other unexpected household repairs come up this past weekend. However the weather's looking nice this Saturday up in the 60s so I'll likely give it a go then. Already got the workshop manual printed out and ready with the instructions on how to dig in to the LH trim panel back there.

Mostly because most of them aren't REALLY capable of handling that full rated load for a long period despite the listed rating. You may get lucky and it'll work, but I like going with the belt and suspenders approach in this case. Not to mention every single forum/reddit posting I've come up with talking about this has highly recommend against going straight through the smart plug as well. And at last check the total build cost wouldn't be much more than about $25-$30 ($15 for the PVC enclosure from Home Depot, another $10 for the contactor, already got wire and some outlets on hand).

If you rely on Value Charging at that significant of a price difference, I encourage you to get an EVSE that can do scheduling on its own. Value Charging has never been 100% reliable even at the best of times. EDIT: For me, if the DIY option continues to not have Value Charging available or the official upgrade is confirmed to have non-functional VC, one project I plan to do is to build a 'beefy' smart plug for use with my 110v EVSE. As I don't plan/can't afford (going to require a new panel and a bit of electrical rework. $$$) to have a 220v setup at my place any time soon, I don't intend to spend extra money on an upgraded EVSE I can't make full use of. Plan is to use an off the shelf smart plug and wire it in to a high amperage contactor that the EVSE will feed through. Definitely not for those not familiar/comfortable with electrical work, but I'll try to document that as well on this forum for anyone interested. This kind of setup has been recommended a number of times on other boards for this type of use.

An additional data point to add: Seems the issue has returned on mine this winter once the temps got colder. It definitely seems like it may be temperature related. When it warms up a bit (gets up between 30-50) it lessens. Down below freezing it occurs more. I don't believe the official 'workaround' from Ford where they apply adhesive around the microphones above the headliner has been done. I intend to look into this myself this summer when I work on getting my rear dashcam installed and pull the headliner for that.

If you have the ability to use ForScan, it'll let you get the part number as well as the current AsBuilt in the module. The AsBuilt from the Motorcraft site SHOULD be current. In theory when the dealer does any work using their IDS system, it'll update the posted AsBuilt with any new data. But I'm not sure how reliable that is.

Are you able to pull the TCU part number as well as the AsBuilt? It will be interesting to compare an official upgrade against what has been accomplished on the DIY front here. While yours is not 100% functional, you're seeing a lot more than at least what @bakedpatato has specifically on that Value Charge Profiles screen.

You'll need to get the modem in your vehicle upgraded first. Currently if you've been using MyFord Mobile, you still have a 3G modem installed. AT&T 'started' the process of shutting down their 3G network on the 23rd. Ford went ahead and just shut down MFM early though. Ford has a program currently to upgrade these to 4G at cost. This will also migrate you over to the FordPass app once that's completed. This has been discussed in detail over in the following thread:

I don't think anyone has had any luck yet because currently the part is only available as an internally purchasable part through Ford as part of this upgrade program/CSP. There's a chance in the coming months it may be available through normal channels, but nothing at the moment I'm afraid. I've been keeping tabs on a number of different communities (C-Max Facebook groups, Focus BEV forum, here, C-Max subreddit, etc..) and haven't been made aware of anyone being able to purchase the part outright.

As a note: As long as the weather holds out, I'm going to attempt to do the DIY upgrade in mine this Friday afternoon. I'll see about trying to document it on video if I can. If following the WSM directions, it's going to require a number of trim pieces removed including the battery cover. Unless those here who have done it found an easier way?

Can you confirm what the Value Charge screens look like in the vehicle? Do you see a similar display to what bakedpotato posted earlier in this thread (post linked below)? And just being absolutely certain, this was an official dealer installed upgrade?

So the above linked SSM -MAY- be a red herring. In the same thread on the Focus BEV forums earlier this month, an older SSM was posted: So what it seems like, with the identical wording being used but these listed model years, is they're saying the existing 3G TCU's should no longer be used for replacements/repairs. At least that's what I'm gathering.

I'm also curious what these supposed programming differences are that would cause these to be unable to be upgraded. Between of the 2013 and 2014 model years there should be no differences. Same electrical architecture with the I-CAN bus. And the C1MCA vs CGEA bit should also be the same. I believe all C-Max model years, being based off the Focus platform, stick to the CGEA1.2/1.3 architecture. Not to mention the newer TCU's specifically have AsBuilt configs for the various architectures including these old ones. The best wild guess I have is maybe some other key modules in the vehicle have older calibrations that's interfering. It may even be something with the older Sync 2 systems, meaning mine being a Sync 3 upgrade may be unaffected. Totally unsure here and just guessing. Here's hoping Ford at least puts some effort into actually trying to resolve it and we get some better info on that later. Sadly, not getting my hopes up.

Reviewing the Focus BEV forums this morning and saw a post where someone included an SSM concerning issues with the upgrade and potential programming issues for 2013 Ford models across the board. SSM 50258: https://ford.oemdtc.com/7480/myford-mobile-and-mylincoln-mobile-app-functionality-concerns-3g-cellular-network-decommission-2012-2015-ford Per that document, it lists the following affected vehicles: C-Max 2013 Focus 2012-2015 Fusion 2012-2013 Fusion Energi/Hybrid 2013 Looks like they're recommending dealers not following through with the upgrade on these models with no resolution listed. I'll still be giving the DIY upgrade a shot in my '13 and see how it goes. Worst case I can put the 3G modem back in and at least maintain Value Charge/Go Times use.

Looks like as of this morning MyFord Mobile has been completely shutdown. Website is completely inaccessible and the app says that it has been decommissioned and to use FordPass instead. So Ford decided not to wait while AT&T does a gradual shutdown of their 3G network. Looks like I'll be moving up my timetable getting the modem upgraded in mine then. Value Charge and Go Times be damned. Still need the LTE antenna. Have that on the way.

No clue how long MFM will last. Assuming as long as the 3G network stays up. That's gonna be a gradual process and not an overnight thing so it will depend on your area how soon AT&T will kill that. The 4G upgrade will forcibly move you to FordPass. So far up to this point on other models Ford has made the basic remote access stuff free for life and feels like they're all in on making FordPass a one stop shop so 'for life' or until something better comes along. But it should remain free.

Correct. The ACM (AM/FM/Sirius tuner, handles your radio presets) actually stores them in the AsBuilt data which is in non-volatile RAM. The APIM (handling stuff like your Bluetooth pairings, saved navigation info, etc..) stores most of that stuff in the onboard NAND flash which won't be lost on power loss. However as you've noted with the other features like EV+, MyView, and other things you have set in the IPC (the gauge cluster) are lost on power loss. This may also include your vehicle settings like 'Home light', unit configuration, the 'MPGe' display setting, etc. so those are worth checking.

Usually don't bump these ancient threads, but this seems to be the biggest dashcam wiring thread on this forum so far and just adding a small bit of extra info that really doesn't require its own thread YET. So I did do some research a while back mainly using the service manuals and wiring diagrams to find suitable fuses to use for both 'always hot' and ignition switched power. I also aimed for using fuses that were 'Not used' and didn't have other systems on them to avoid any potential interference down the line. Here's what I found: F68 - 15A - Hot (fuse tap towards passenger side) F87 - Ign Switched (fuse tap towards driver side) F58 - 5A - Int Light Relay F63 - 10A - Int Light Relay Caveat: These are theoretical. I have not been able to confirm them yet, but the service manual bears out their viability. The big question mark I have is the orientation of the fuse taps, but those are easy to figure out and would be a 50/50 guess. ? The later two being on an interior light relay means they will become active earlier such as when unlocking the vehicle or opening a door and the vehicle starts waking up, dash comes on, etc.. The F87 ignition switched relay should only come on with the ignition. This'll be personal preference which you want to use, ie: If you'd like to have the dashcam 'wake up' earlier before you drive off for example. I have a Viofo A129 Duo kit myself with just the front camera installed and using the 12v adapter instead of hardwiring. Once the weather warms up here and I have some free time, I intend to finally do the full install including adding the rear camera (and finding a good spot in the small rear window to install it), running the wire through the headliner, and getting the hardwire kit set up. I intend to try and get it all documented as well as I can to post here in this forum.

I believe this display is only available on newer model years. Can't tell you which specific years though. Earlier models did not have this. If memory serves, this shows up when you shut off the car and get the trip summary stuff.

A couple of notes: 1) I definitely wouldn't recommend using plain old electrical tape and even so I'd avoid messing with this at all if you aren't completely comfortable messing the HV systems. Proper isolation of an open connector HV like this would need to be done and is at least well outside of my wheelhouse. Wouldn't be difficult to have an HV connector in the elements, improperly isolated, and have it arc over to the body and wreak all kinds of havoc. There are some safeties involved, but those usually mean the vehicle will completely disable the HV system and thus the vehicle altogether once it senses there's any form of crossover. 2) Couldn't tell you how the vehicle reacts with it removed. Will very likely set a number of codes and could potentially cause the ICE to run 100% if it is unhappy enough. I -CAN- tell you that even though you drive in hybrid mode while using heat, it will still use the electric/PTC heater at points as needed and the vehicle likely takes this operation into consideration for emissions (making sure the engine can warm up in a timely manner, per their own OBD operations document). 3) There is a fuse in the under-hood fuse box labelled F29 but it controls both the A/C compressor as well as the PTC heater. I'd verify that you are CERTAIN this is where it is leaking from. Clean it up good and check where it's coming from. Make sure it's not a hose or clamp or something nearby. Tighten things up if you can, etc.. I believe the degas/coolant bottle is also above this area as well as the washer fluid bottle. IF the PTC heater module is leaking, then that's about where I'd end my advice given it is a HV component and safety concerns are involved there. Absolute BARE minimum, pull the HV battery disconnect that's behind the rear seat on the passenger side. This essentially splits the pack in half electrically and opens the circuit. But there's a LOT more safety precautions normally involved beyond this step. High voltage equipment is no joke, especially DC. You can also review Ford's OBD operations document linked below. Starting on Page 104 it covers the cooling system in detail. Microsoft Word - OBDSM1700_HEV.docx (fordservicecontent.com)

For the C-Max/Fusion Energi models, Ford really only warranties a total battery failure causing the vehicle to be undriveable. They don't warranty any degradation or capacity loss like most other manufacturers. Best recommendation is to follow the recommended steps by other owners that help prolong the battery in the long term as these vehicles do a poor job at it on their own. You'll want to find out the real capacity of the battery in KwH. Short explanation: Start with a full 100% charge and drive in EV only mode, no heat. You want to make sure there's no chance the engine is going to kick on during this test. Drive until the plug-in capacity is depleted and drops to hybrid mode. Stop the car and shut it off. The trip summary on the dash should then show the KwH used and if the test was done correctly, this number should show the battery capacity to a decent degree of accuracy.

Finally got my H series TCU in. As noted previously, I'm going to hold off doing the upgrade in my '13 until either I lose functionality (either the MFM app is shut down or AT&T's 3G network shuts down in my area) or more positive information is found about the Value Charging/Go Times features. Still need to get the antenna but that should be a much easier task. Also not quite willing to dig into the vehicle in this colder weather in an unheated garage. ?

This is somewhat of a common occurrence on earlier models and can also cause battery drain issues. In the interim, the workaround is to pull Fuse 79 in the passenger compartment fuse panel (under the glove compartment in the passenger side footwell), give it a minute or so, then put it back in. The long term appropriate fix is the ACM needs updated by your dealer. This has been documented and covered in official TSBs on other Ford models such as the Fusion, MKZ, etc.. SSM46440 Ford Technical Service Bulletin (tsbsearch.com)

The 'miles of range' is merely a guess by the vehicle and will vary depending on a number of different factors from your recent driving patterns, ambient temperature, climate control usage, etc.. It's never recommended as a final say of battery capacity/life/etc.. Check the actual SOC % either via MyFordMobile/FordPass or in the Sync system. 2015 you should be on Sync 2 so the little 'leaf' icon on the row of buttons at the bottom of the screen should get you there. More than likely you are getting a full charge, but the estimated miles of range will vary per the line above. The drops you're seeing aren't that unusual considering the conditions. If you're absolutely worried about the battery life/capacity, doing the KwH test will be the ideal way to verify that.