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I've only ever had these 'cell balancing circuit stuck on' codes occur once on my Energi and that was after returning home on EV+ mode and letting it draw the battery down low and the cold weather likely brought the pack voltages down real low and triggered it. Next startup had the MIL lit and the ICE ran full time. A few vehicle restarts later it went away and hasn't been a problem since. I say if it is still under warranty, definitely doesn't hurt to check with your dealer and they can probably do much more thorough checks of the battery and other systems.

In theory it shouldn't be a concern in that scenario. For the Energi model, that aux trans fluid pump will be running any time the vehicle is on. For hybrid models, the battery is small enough that it will get filled very quick if you have a good enough downhill and then the ICE will kick back in for engine braking and thus the primary engine driven pump will be operating again.

The common technique is to drive in EV only from a full charge and keep going until the battery is depleted and the ICE kicks on. Stop and shut off the car and the trip summary on the dash should show how many kwh you've used. 5.5kwh or thereabouts is brand new. 4-5kwh seems to be about the common level of degradation for most. This is also the most reliable way to measure battery capacity and degradation. Kwh is not going to change (at least not significantly) with weather/driving habits/etc.. The 'guess-o-meter' with the estimated miles can be all over the place however based on all those factors.

-Technically- yes. But it requires changing the region of the APIM. This means a lot of features are changed or disabled to match another region/country in addition to the removal of the in motion restriction (which is really a mandated safety feature) for the navigation system. Other stuff like 911 assist, SiriusXM, and potentially other region specific options will be affected. It's usually not advised to make this change. What version of Sync do you have or what model year C-Max do you have? If you have a 2016+ model or Sync 3, it is possible to update Sync to a 3.4.x version which is reported to have improved access to the nav system in motion. EDIT: I'm dense. You posted your model year in the thread title. You should have Sync 3 but Ford will only officially get you up to the latest 3.3 version. If you are interested in moving to 3.4, you can check out the program 'Syn3Updater' by CyanLabs. That will get it bumped to 3.4

If you're talking about the Sync 2 > Sync 3 upgrade itself, no real need. The procedure is basically 100% identical to that of the Escape as the dash and center console components are identical to the C-Max. That's basically how I got so familiar with it initially was watching the Escape installation videos, of which there are a lot of already. ? Programming-wise I wouldn't know the first place to start. lol. There's a LOT of moving parts in the AsBuilt coding. And given most sellers pre-program them for your vehicle, it's not a huge deal. That said, if anyone jumps on this and needs an AsBuilt copy from a fully loaded SEL, I can at least provide that. lol

I bought mine from seller 'mitrals' on eBay: mitrals on eBay -- I believe he also hangs out on some of the Facebook C-Max groups and has listings in the FB marketplace. That said, these kits are becoming so commonplace from various sellers it isn't hard to find anymore. I'd just stay away from those trying to fleece you for $1000+ like 4Dtech. $500-$600 seems to be a good average all in for a non-nav system with $700-$800 being what I'd expect for factory nav. And many will pre-program the APIM for your vehicle with just your VIN. The one additional caveat I'd add is to avoid any Chinese/overseas sellers and try to buy from those with locations in the US. Counterfeit/bodged APIM's out of China seem to be somewhat common and may not exactly be stable in the long term. The CyanLabs program is absolutely free. Basically it's a relatively user friendly frontend for pulling Sync 3 update components from Ford's site and building a working USB stick to manually update with. This is especially necessary for two reasons on vehicles like ours: 1) The SyncMyRide site is not going to officially recognize 2013-2015 models as having Sync 3 and being able to take those updates even with the Sync 3 APIM installed. 2) Earlier Sync 3 modules are only officially allowed to update up to 3.3.x versions, but unofficially 3.4.x is a solid update for these with a lot of new features, performance improvements, and bug fixes. Ford will also not sanction this update through SyncMyRide and must be done manually (either by hand or via CyanLabs' Syn3updater application). And lastly 3) Doing the Sync 2 > Sync 3 upgrade causes the automatic update feature to not work as Ford's still looking at your VIN and seeing it as a Sync 2 vehicle. So any future updates will need to be done manually as well.

So I just want to add my little anecdote here: My 2013 is now getting up on around 82k miles and after my last service and tire rotation (including a recent update to Sync 3, which ultimately I think is unrelated to this given its place, or lack thereof, in the ANC pipeline) I decided to re-enable it as my occasional check to see if it behaves. I will say it seems to have improved significantly to the point I have willingly left it enabled. A number of locations where I've had it reliably act up before have behaved perfectly. I only had it act up once briefly coming back from vacation end of May driving up through WV and across central Ohio. The only time it misbehaved was a very short stretch on I-70 in Ohio and it seemed to be related to a flat stretch that was long enough where maybe it was able to go into negative split mode long enough to trigger it? Unfortunately I didn't get any good data points as it was a sudden and (shockingly) unexpected occurrence. If it happens again, I'm gonna try to track the ICE RPM at minimum. That said since I know many have probably disabled this already and are probably unfamiliar with it in proper operating mode, having the ANC actually working is quite nice. I have noticed a SIGNIFICANT drop off of noise from the ICE even under increased RPMs/load. I can still hear it, but it definitely is nowhere near as loud as with the ANC disabled. And this is the only thing it appears to affect. I have not noticed any reduction in road noise or other sources.

Thought this may be a good thing to reference here for the users on this forum. Within the past few months I upgraded my 2013 Energi from Sync 2/MyFord Touch to Sync 3 and have bumped it up to the latest 3.4 version thanks to the work of the dudes over at CyanLabs and their Syn3updater tool. One thing to note in this process for our older vehicles is the climate controls displayed in Sync that we were used to in MFT and were also available in Sync 3.0-3.3.x are gone in the later 3.4 versions since they are technically no longer 'compatible' due to the underlying communication architecture in our 2013's (and likely 2014 and 2015 models as well) is different than what is used in newer vehicles. That all said, this can be re-enabled and with first hand experience in my own vehicle, it works 100% with the added bonus of having the 'climate repeater' feature also work (this feature, whenever you adjust the climate control through physical controls, shows the temp/fan/etc changes on the touch screen similar to if you adjust the volume). This has all been documented well on a thread over on the CyanLabs site and the necessary AsBuilt tweaks via ForScan: Re-enabling climate domain/repeater options after 3.4 update + parking sensor display - Ford / Configuration (AsBuilt) - CyanLabs Official Community (The additional topic in that thread concerning the parking sensor display has not been tackled yet, still need to get the OBDLink adapter necessary for the PAM firmware updates. I've also briefly brought up elsewhere on the forum about trying to see if the ambient lighting can be enabled and controlled via Sync as AsBuilt parameters exist to enable this. Not getting my hopes up on that one given the architecture of how the ambient lighting module is wired in our vehicles, but will still give it a shot and post here if anything promising comes about) ------ Semi off topic and probably long enough for its own topic now: After about 2 1/2 months of having Sync 3 in my 2013 I will say that I do highly recommend this upgrade if you have the funds to do it. Just about 99% of the functionality works flawlessly and the addition of CarPlay/Android Auto has been a godsend. I use AA myself basically every trip. I bought an all inclusive kit for mine which was pre-programmed for my C-Max so it was literally plug and play. Total install time not counting gathering tools together (really the only major thing needed is the appropriate sized socket for the bolts holding the center vents and the APIM in. Everything else basically snaps in) was probably 15-20 minutes tops including replacing the USB hub (this is required if you use CarPlay, still recommended otherwise. The stock hub with the SD slot and composite video connections 'works' but it throws an error on screen at every vehicle start and the composite video/aux connections no longer work with Sync 3). Here's some of the functions I was originally worried about losing and my notes on them as well as some general observations I've found: The only 'major' bug I have right now is the auto screen brightness when it dims the lights (say going under a bridge or something) the APIM display flickers on this one but from what I have gathered it is due to an older APIM/screen module as mine is an early 2016 module. Newer ones with newer firmware seem to behave in this respect. It also appears it may be specific to Focus/Escape/Kuga/C-Max models and related to the different 'global lighting' communication protocol used and incompatibilities therein. That said, I have not found it to be terribly distracting myself. It doesn't seem like it flickers between full brightness or full dim and the 'steps' it flickers between seem to be a relatively small brightness difference. And it only occurs during the transition between brightness levels when the ambient light suddenly changes. When it settles in one spot it is fine. I will have to make a note to get my good camera that I can lock the exposure on and capture this while someone else is driving. A 'workaround' for this issue other than getting a newer APIM module and screen is there is a version of Sync 3 where an 'auto brightness' toggle still existed. This is version 3.4.19101. This version and prior still had the auto brightness toggle. Later versions removed it. The basic parking sensor/beep functions work perfectly. This doesn't seem to rely on the APIM at all. The PAM communicates directly to the ACM to produce the beeps through the speakers and that is not changed in any way during this upgrade. The auto parking assist function does not work properly for these early model vehicles and this upgrade. The on screen graphics are not displayed correctly with some text/icons off screen. The actual functionality also may or may not work. It seems to be hit or miss for some. Those it has worked for it seems like you have to know beforehand what the various tones it produces tell you to do and rely on them as the displays on screen don't function properly out of the box. I haven't had the opportunity or location to give this a solid go on mine to confirm if my 2013 still 'works' without the display. It does seem that if you can update the PAM firmware via ForScan and do some additional AsBuilt modifications it can be made to work 100% however. UPDATED 2/13/2024: The auto park assist works fine, but the on screen displays may not be accurate. If you've used it before and know the steps and the beeps, you can follow that and it SHOULD function normally on 'feel' alone. Unfortunately this is not something that can be fixed without potentially a LOT of reverse engineering work. MyFord Mobile and the integrated TCU/Modem still works fine. No loss of functionality here and the on screen Value Charge adjustments work fine. The functionality where a Master Reset in Sync decouples the vehicle from the linked MFM account also still works. UPDATED 2/13/2024: As we all know, MyFord Mobile is gone. The newer 4G TCU's and FordPass work fine with this upgrade even on these older model vehicles. On some Ford vehicles it is reported the integrated GPSM (GPS module for stuff like the dash compass, 911 assist, EV+ mode, and the now defunct Sync Service/turn by turn directions for those without factory nav. This module is buried underneath the dash behind the IPC on our vehicles) clashes with the new GPS module in the Sync 3 platform (Sync 3 now uses a separate 'dumb' GPS antenna directly attached to the APIM. The old GPSM sat on the CAN network and communicated to modules such as the IPC, BCM, and APIM that way) meaning you'd see stuff like the compass display spinning or the factory nav wouldn't be accurate or would bug out. This often means the GPSM would need to be disconnected altogether. Anecdotally with my 2013 this is not necessary and the two GPS sources co-exist fine. The compass, EV+ mode, and the GPS info provided to MyFord Mobile (which I am 99% positive is still using the factory GPSM and not the new GPS source from Sync 3) all functions accordingly. Navigation and audio displays on the IPC (gauge cluster, right side display where you have Navigation/Phone/Audio/Efficiency screens) continue to work 100% with the built in media and nav functions. Android Auto will also work with this to some degree (on Sync 3.4 only. 3.0-3.3 do not relay this data over. This only applies to AA/CarPlay. Base Sync 3 nav/audio functions still send this data over for all Sync 3 versions) Navigation via Google Maps or Waze will display turn by turn directions on the IPC, however some data is missing. Namely the overall trip ETA at the top. Both the distance and time here just show 0's. This does appear to be an issue with Ford's programming not relaying this info over to the IPC. Per Android developer info, all of this nav info (namely the missing overall trip ETA data) and more is sent to the headunit while using AA and is available on other vehicles. Everything else including the current street name, next street, and distance to next turn will display fine. Speed limits also display on mine however I believe this may be reliant on the factory nav data. I'm not sure if this displays for those w/o factory nav. EDIT: Added an example photo of this functionality. Link UPDATED 2/13/2024: This only applies to Android Auto. CarPlay even with the latest Sync versions will not show turn by turn data on the IPC with Sync 3. At least for Google Maps on Android Auto, you can use the 'up/down' arrow buttons on the steering wheel to go to the nav menu on the IPC and during an active route you have a Cancel Route option here that does work and cancels the route in Google Maps. This is the only command I have seen available while using AA and that it works. (This is potentially Android Auto specific) Audio info displays fine. Similar to the nav data, artist and track name display, progress bar is accurate, and elapsed time display is there. The track count however always shows 0/0 for me at least when using Youtube Music and Poweramp. Have not tested any other music apps EDIT: Tested multiple audio apps including Plexamp which display track counts via Bluetooth. All show 0/0 via Android Auto. Link) Bluetooth Audio now displays actual data! With MyFord Touch the IPC would just show 'Bluetooth Audio Stream detected'. Now it displays the same data as if playing from a USB flash drive including artist/title name, progress, etc.. I am not sure off hand if the track count displays properly or is 0/0 like my experience with Android Auto. I will test this later this afternoon and edit my post accordingly. EDIT: Full info is displayed including track counts for select apps. In my case, Youtube Music shows 0/0 regardless of playlist or music selection. Other apps like Poweramp and Plexamp display the proper song count. Link If anyone has any questions at all regarding the Sync 3 upgrade on these older vehicles, I'd be happy to answer any of them.

Glad to see another Energi owner here. ? Yeah, ever since the Energi specific forum has been taken down, I've basically considered this the de facto C-Max Hybrid/Energi combined forum. Thankfully 95% of the topics covered are identical for both models. I'm also curious on the trans replacement. Do you also happen to know approx. when this was done and a rough idea as to what ratio of EV/ICE usage you had on the 2013? These factors I don't think have been discussed much when trans replacements have come up. It's basically just come down to 'I hit xxxk miles and needed a replacement' and that's about it.

The Energi still does employ engine braking, but is is SO very rare unless you are operating on a fully charged battery and still putting energy back in. I've only ever had that happen once in my '13 and that was driving through Colorado on I-70 and letting cruise control do the work keeping us at a set speed downhill. It quickly charged the battery back up to full on one stretch and ICE braking took over as expected. And anecdotally I've seen reports here and elsewhere of people reporting it kicking in because they use L gear straight away on a full battery. So it does exist, but as you stated with the large battery it is a very rare occurrence.

Are you sure about this? Have there been any good documented numbers on who has had these bearing issues occur and whether they've owned the hybrid or Energi models? Last thread I recall having any kind of lists was just on this forum and assumed just hybrid owners and even then it has been a while since it has had any activity. Not discounting you, but I am now really curious especially as a '13 Energi owner and getting a bit wary as the miles start creeping up. I am very aware of the added auxiliary trans oil pump on the Energi's. But I had thought the supposed issue was said bearing being improperly installed at the factory and not necessarily something caused by a lack of lubrication. CARB states should actually have a 10yr/150k hybrid warranty which would cover the transmission. The main things to check are 1) Where was the vehicle originally sold? (ensure it was in WA or another CARB state?) and 2) What was the 'in-service' date of the vehicle for the original owner. This will usually fall on or around the original purchase date and Ford will have this on file. This will be where the clock starts counting down on the applicable factory warranties. These also do transfer to subsequent owners.

Yeah, kinda hard to say at this point, but leaning towards the modem wasn't ever upgraded so the obvious SOL aspect is there. And unfortunately with these it does require dealer activation shenanigans and isn't a simple DIY module swap. If you ever do look into ForScan, that should give you a definite idea. I've posted a screenshot I just took here a few minutes ago. ForScan's free and the adapters are cheap enough if you don't already have a compatible one. OBDLink's are good and the stupid cheap ELM clones are just fine for basic diagnostics. Only catch is you need to make sure they read the MS-CAN bus as this is what the TCU/modem and other 'non-essential' modules sit on.

It seems very likely 2.5g is referencing the old modem as that is often referencing the old 'EDGE' networks that have since been shut down. Have you added the vehicle to the owner.ford.com site and see what it lists for recalls? I'm not sure if that particular recall would still show now if it was never completed, but it's worth checking to confirm. If you see the recall listed, that is an easy sign it hasn't been done. I'm headed out here momentarily and I'm gonna have a play with ForScan. I think I recall discussions elsewhere of some useful diagnostic info produced from the modem including a signal level PID so will see if I can confirm that exists and report back if I find anything useful in case you have access to ForScan as well. One thing to note that I came across doing some further research on this is it looks like AT&T's doing a final shutdown of their 3G services Feb 2022. So short of Ford doing another recall or offering a paid 4G/LTE upgrade for our vehicles (both of which I have high doubts of), MyFordMobile for us is going to be dead come that date. So take that as you will especially if this ultimately ends up resulting in the dealer charging you to sort this out.

`Apologies. I believe it is under the Help menu. My recall of the menus on MFT/Sync 2 is a bit rusty.

It's been a hot minute since I've used MyFord Touch (you mention you have a 2015 which should have come with MyFord Touch/Sync 2 unless a Sync 3 upgrade was done) but you should be able to go into the Settings (gear icon) menu and then System Information and it should be listed in that menu. It'll either be referred to as TCU or 'Modem' ESN or Serial. EDIT: I had a photo from a while back of that menu. It's actually listed as the 'CPPM ESN'.

Good to know. I'll likely still go through with the adjustable arms but try from another brand and do some additional research there just to try and see what goes. I don't plan on making many other major modifications to this car, mainly just normal maintenance and upkeep. I've done the Sync 3 upgrade and I'm happy where she's at and plan to keep her til it becomes uneconomical to maintain. I'm also not set on what my next set of tires are gonna be. I definitely don't want to go with the OEM Michelin's as that bit me in the butt here my first winter with the car. They don't seem to like ice, AT ALL, even with good tread left. Even the cheapo Kenda all seasons I replaced them with have been miles ahead of the Michelin's in the stuff. But I do believe the Kenda's I got being on the cheaper end may not have helped the cupping situation either so I do plan to step to something likely mid-tier once the tread dictates replacement. We don't get too much or too bad of winter precip being inside an urban heat bubble, just a few days here or there when temperatures rollercoaster and we get snow melt or rain that freezes into solid sheets of ice but that's maybe ~5 days out of the entire year so I've never felt the need to keep a set of winters around and have learned well driving on all seasons (My last car was an '07 Focus with no ABS and rear drums and my commute at the time was in worse conditions with a longer commute than where I'm at. And before that I drove a family member's Cavalier when I lived in the Ohio snowbelt. I got quite adept at winter driving between of those two. lol). So ultimately I'll be sticking with some decent mid-tier all seasons and will do that research when the time comes for replacements. ?

This is a big one for sure. I just got mine rotated at my last service a few months ago with only 10k miles/2 years on a brand new set of tires and the cupping was horrible. Didn't realize it was going to get that bad so quickly. The alignment is horrible on the rear of our vehicles and can't be adjusted with the factory hardware apparently. Supposedly there's some aftermarket components made for the Focus that's compatible with the C-Max to make the rear end adjustable and help with this. Personally I plan to drop my rotation intervals down to 5k/1yr, hold out til I need new tires and then get a good middle of the road all season set and look into the aftermarket suspension components at the same time.

In theory the Master Reset option in Sync should take care of all that for you with no need to contact the prior owner. I've had to actually do a few master resets of mine recently when I've played around with Sync 3 and it very simply removes the vehicle from my MFM account and sends me an e-mail, text, and app notification telling me it has been removed. From there it is free to be added again. I don't see it mentioned above, but first things I would do to make sure the modem is actually communicating with Ford: 1) Check the system info in Sync and see if the TCU ESN is displayed properly. If it just shows blank instead of an alphanumeric string, the TCU/Modem is not functioning correctly. 2) Whether or not (1) is showing, try pulling the 'Cellular Passport' fuse (forget the fuse number, but this is how it's listed in the manual) for 5-10 minutes 2b) Check (1) again after doing the fuse and also try the master reset option again. 3) Verify you are in good AT&T 3G coverage as that is what these modems use. 4) Verify the modem recall has been done. Early models came from the factory with 2G modems (Can't recall what model years this applies to) and AT&T has shut that down. Ford had a free recall for a period to swap these for 3G capable ones. Basically there is no way for you to contact the prior owner through official Ford channels and the only time they're going to get some clear notification is how I mentioned above if the Master Reset was successful and the vehicle is removed from their account anyways. If all else fails, relying on the dealer to do any necessary updates and resets and potentially reset the MFM link for you is the only option you have.

No, but really glad to see another vehicle in Ford's stable that is coming with a hybrid drivetrain standard, especially in the pickup segment. I think this is the first since the C-Max? Also seeing this package offered under $20k is insane. I see they mention a CVT on this, I wonder if it is specifically going with the eCVT model? Does Ford have any other vehicles currently with a traditional belt/chain operated CVT that they could borrow from?

No way that I'm aware of to stop it. But you are correct, it does it if it deems the air in the cabin is too humid. The verbiage on this is in Ford's workshop manuals: In-Vehicle Temperature And Humidity Sensor The in-vehicle temperature and humidity sensor contains a thermistor and a sensing element which separately measures the in-vehicle air temperature and the humidity, then sends those readings to the HVAC control module to adjust the actuator doors. The in-vehicle temperature and humidity sensor has an electric fan within the sensor that draws in-vehicle air across the two sensing elements. If the vehicle cabin becomes too humid the HVAC control module adjusts the air inlet door to allow more fresh air. When the humidity level drops, it adjusts back to recirculated air. That said it doesn't specifically mention the recirc icon turning off but I'm assuming it is related to all of this. In my personal experience I've noticed it happening after running with recirc for a bit and the windows just begin to start fogging up.

I have found, and I believe this is mentioned to some degree in the owners manual, that the HVAC system does have programming to monitor interior humidity and will adjust/turn off recirc if it feels it needs to to maintain a certain humidity level. I had noticed the same behavior on mine (not necessarily the smell, but the recirc mode turning itself off) and had to dig around on that.

To preface this: I recently upgraded my 2013 Energi to Sync 3. So I'm running off the original 2013MY ACM and a 2016 nav equipped APIM with the latest 3.4.21098 software update. Yesterday was the start of SiriusXM's free preview and is going on until June 8th. Was playing around to ensure my system had been activated accordingly. Apparently at some stage it 'froze' but not in the usual ways. I could still actively change audio sources, change volume, and interact with everything normally. However either shutting down the car or pressing the power button with the car off (how I often mess with Sync while in my garage. I don't start the car or turn on accessory mode, just press the power button on the dash for the audio system) would react. So this was a new failure mode for me. This time around fuse 79 didn't resolve it on its own. Fuse 67 was what was needed to power down the APIM which was what was acting up here. Just thought I'd throw that out there as a new failure mode I've run into. I'm still of the thought that there's something with the Sirius refresh process that tends to hang up the works on occasion. Since up to this free preview mine has been inactive so it was working hard to pull down all the channel logos, channel guide, etc. from scratch.

Simply put there's a parasitic drain somewhere. Common ones are the ACM/APIM (the modules involving the radio/infotainment/Sync), potentially the rear hatch needing adjusted as there were known issues with the latch/ajar sensor not being triggered properly when closed, etc.. And of course the obvious: Make sure you don't leave anything plugged in when the car's off that may drain the battery. There's no guarantee that a dealer is going to be on top of software updates unless the previous owner experienced these issues and actually bothered to get the source of the issue fixed vs throwing bandaids like just jump starting/replacing the battery. So may be worth checking in to see if any of that was actually done previously.

I want to say I've seen some mentions elsewhere that in later models when they started adding the titanium trim, the powered liftgate was relegated to a different option package compared to previous model years with the SEL trim. So just an FYI there when researching if that is a desired feature.

Not built in to the vehicle, no. However depending on the EVSE you can some times use a padlock on the charging handle itself. Some will have a small hole in the handle that can be used for that. In that case it will prevent the 'release' button from being pressed and will prevent it from being removed from the charge port.