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This sound is actually very close to the one I'm hearing. I am taking her in today to get some other scheduled maintenance done. Also my drivers door handle completely stopped sensing my hand about a year back so gonna see if that's gonna be an involved fix or not. Will definitely be pushing to have them check on this noise and see if I can encourage them to also check on the transmission too to be sure. Just gonna flat out tell them I'm aware of the potential trans issues and want to make sure that's not starting to act up before my warranty runs out.

I've basically only ever heard it in EV mode. It's JUST quiet enough that it would be hard to hear over the ICE so not sure if it occurs during that or not. A/C is similar. I do plan to take it in to the dealer here in the next couple days for its yearly checkup, oil change, etc. so going to see if I can push them to do a more thorough check this time.

So I am very well aware of the known transmission issues on these vehicles in the earlier model years. Got a 2013 here. So far knock on wood with 81k on the odometer it has been behaving. However a noise that has been very slowly progressing over time has me bugged especially with only a few months left on the hybrid warranty. Unfortunately last time I had my dealer check it out they were unable to hear anything (to be fair, it was VERY hard to hear even for me at the time) and even now it can only be heard under very specific circumstances. Basically the only time it is heard is with the windows down, radio off, and if I am driving past another car or a wall or object that the sound can bounce off from the driver side. Anything outside of that such as driving in the open or windows rolled up it can't be heard easily unless it is SUPER quiet, no other cars/street noise. The noise though is a very distinct metal on metal grinding type noise, continuous with no rhythm I can tell. And it occurs under any load, accel or decel and seems to increase in loudness if more load is applied. Normally I would just say this is a wheel bearing somewhere but with the known transmission issues and the end of warranty coming up it has me a little spooked. Any thoughts especially from those who have dealt with the transmission failure before?

Get the ACM updated by a dealer. There have been TSBs for this exact issue on other Ford models over the years with software updates to fix this exact issue. No need for a rube goldberg workaround with the fuse.

Based on the clicking noises heard my guess would be it was indeed low enough that the various systems couldn't be powered up on battery alone and with the charger added in it was all fighting trying to get enough juice in to bring the battery up but also power up the rest of the car too. Given this and if its been sitting on the shelf as such, I'd definitely keep a very close eye on it after you've given it a solid trickle charge and resetting the life counter in the vehicle. If you do find you have to exchange it, I'd invest in a cheap voltmeter/multimeter and check the battery while in the store before you even check out with it. Very cheap insurance against a dud especially if the store isn't doing their due diligence on these. They shouldn't read anything below 12.00v sitting unused. Anything less can impact their usable life.

The ACM will need to be done by a dealer or a mechanic who has access to Ford's IDS. It can't be updated via USB like Sync can. Having the presets act up like that is also a probably sign of the ACM not behaving. To give the cliffnotes: The ACM is basically just the AM/FM/Sirius/CD tuner and outputs to the speakers and isn't much different than the old non-Sync radios. The APIM is the 'brains' and communicates with the ACM and tells it what to do and how to route audio and is the touch screen portion of the whole operation. The APIM pulls and interacts with the tuner presets from the ACM which holds them all. So it's all interconnected that way. And it's also why when these freezes happen that the touch screen works perfect but when you go to change sources or volume the controls 'respond' but don't really do anything. It's sending those commands but the ACM's not doing anything with them. As for the 12v battery, there are jumper leads under the hood on the driver side near the strut tower. There should be a little red cap for the positive post and negative is basically any bare metal. There may be a long bolt sticking out near there for a better connection. But this is where the car is supposed to be jump started from and should also be able to load test here as well as it runs directly to the battery. 12v battery life I don't think there's any good numbers as everyone's vehicle has behaved different over the years of ownership and with the above radio freezing issues that most like to ignore will commonly help degrade battery life and skew numbers. Most numbers I've seen thrown out are the classic 'average lifetime' of 12v batteries in any vehicle. I will say with my OWN personal experience on my 2013: I've had it since April '17. According to the internal counters the 12v battery looks like it MAY be original from the factory. Worst case if someone replaced the battery before me and didn't reset the life counter (FYI: This -SHOULD- be done. The vehicle has a smart charging system and tracks the battery life over time and adjusts charging and discharging based on that. When replacing it, the counter in the vehicle needs to be reset. This either needs to be done by a dealer or can be done via the ForScan app pretty easily) it's looking like it's at least 4 years old or more which still isn't shabby. And I haven't had any issues yet with it going dead on me. That said mine is an Energi model that I keep plugged in and it does top off the 12v battery while plugged in.

A LOT to unload in that last message but hopefully I can cover the key points: First, there is no need to force the ICE on for battery charging. Our vehicles will always be powering the 12V systems and charging the 12V battery when it is in 'Ready to Drive' mode. There is no alternator, it uses a DC-DC converter to convert power from the HVB down to 12V. The 12V battery should only need replacing if you have confirmed its capacity has dropped just like any other traditional vehicle. What is most often the case of the radio freeze and related 12V battery drain issues is the ACM (different from the APIM!) and it needs to be updated. There have been TSBs over the years on different Ford models with the same issues and the fix is updating the ACM to a new calibration level. To chime in on one of Bill-N's earlier points: The fact that the parking sensor beeps disappears is another indicator the ACM has locked up and will not shut down when the car is off. The Parking Aid Module sends signals to the ACM to tell it when, how and in which speakers to send the alert beeps. If those aren't heard when they should and the parking button isn't turned 'Off', the ACM is not behaving. Many people just stick with the workaround of pulling the necessary fuse(s) when this happens, but in reality the ACM needs updated. I can say from personal experience that I had my APIM replaced on my 2013 when I bought the vehicle back in 2017 and both it and the ACM were updated at that time. I have not had a single occurrence yet of the radio freezing.

My personal opinion on this is I'd be perfectly fine bringing the Energi forum back but just lock it and use it as an archive. I think with the small userbase here, having both Hybrid and Energi discussions on the same forum is fine moving forward rather than as separate sites. But that's just my opinion and thought on it. ?

Forgot to add this to my post, but this is also a very good item to check. This vehicle as well as most modern ones do have separate coils per spark plug and it is not uncommon for them to occasionally go bad. An easy check without a full on Ford IDS scantool is to clear the misfire codes and swap coils between the reported 'bad' one per the misfire code to another cylinder. If the misfire code follows the coil to the new cylinder, you have your problem. If the misfire position stays, it is something else still tied to that cylinder. Spark plug at best but could be a deeper issue. Also please ensure everything is fully seated and connected when doing this work.

Continuing to try to start the ICE if it can't continue to run and charge the HVB can be detrimental to it so I'd try and reduce how often you try until it can be properly sorted. If the HVB is drained beyond the point of being able to start the ICE, you're going to have to get a dealer involved so they can bring in a special battery charging unit if this is a Hybrid only model. That said, no, the HVB being low should not prevent the ICE from running if it was able to start it to begin with. Quite the opposite: If the battery is low enough but is able to start, it's gonna want to run the ICE longer to get the charge back up to a reasonable level barring any other issues to cause it to shut down the ICE. Probably a dumb question: But are you certain the ICE is shutting down due to a mechanical issue and not just because of the normal hybrid operation? There should be specific DTCs stored if the ICE is disabled/shut down due to an issue/failure where it is unsafe to continue running. Also the 'Ready to Drive' light -SHOULD- go out if there is an actual issue as the vehicle will no longer be able to move under its own power. If it's not reporting said DTC or the Ready to Drive light is still on, you can try this: While in Park with the vehicle started, hold the accelerator to the floor. This will, under normal operating circumstances, force the ICE to continue running while the pedal is pressed and charge the battery if it is able. If it is able to continue running in this case, the vehicle is at least not detecting any serious issues to prevent it from operating but if you still have misfire codes, those will obviously need to be figured out.

This would be really nice if it is doable. There were a LOT of useful posts there that are now missing.

You need to have your dealer (or trusted mechanic who has access to Ford's IDS) and get the ACM updated. This is the part that's locking up and causing related issues including key-off battery drain when it's stuck in this mode. There's been TSBs on this over the years for multiple Ford models covering this. Sadly most never get it properly fixed and just deal with the workaround.

Not that I'm aware of on the stock keyfobs. There should be a specific button specifically for the remote start function if you have the correct keyfob. This is the one I have with my 2013. Not sure if they've changed them in newer model years. That top button is for the remote start: FLMPEPS6-F-MAIN2.jpg (1000×1125) (northcoastkeyless.com) If you didn't get a fob with the remote start button, you may want to review the settings in the IPC menu (left screen in gauge cluster). There should be options for remote start settings in there. If those show for you, that's a good sign the vehicle is configured for it, just need to get the right fob. (Though in theory if you have the option in MFM it should be a given as well I think the Energi's had it standard. But the settings in the dash will 100% confirm the availability via keyfob)

I just wish a proper fix for this was implemented. I'd love a functioning ANC system but definitely not dealing with the even occasional deafening drone. Have had mine disconnected for some time now myself. Now that ForScan offers module firmware updates as a tool, I wonder if the DACMC got any worthy updates over the years to sort this out?

Incorrect. There's a second coolant system but it is purely for the inverter and has a MUCH smaller coolant tank. And I can't imagine a reason why that shouldn't be changed at the same time the ICE coolant is done as well.

One thing to keep in mind is if the ICE -JUST- started and is cold, the car is going to prefer to let it idle and warm up without a load before it has it contributing to propulsion of the vehicle. Cases that will override this are heavier acceleration or low HVB level as examples. But under mild to moderate accelerator application it will have the electric motor do the lions share of acceleration until the ICE is ready to go (read: All the normal cold start emissions checks are done, O2 sensors are happy, etc..)

I will say this has been my experience in the C-Max as well in winter weather. I live in a climate where we don't get a ton of winter precip that sticks or makes things treacherous to I just stick with all seasons year round. Not worth it to spend on winter tires when I'd make use of them maybe a week max a year if we're (un)lucky. But it's worked well for me. Straight snow I've never had traction issues, slush is about the same. Ice is the worst we deal with here (urban heat island, rollercoaster temps, and snow easily melting and refreezing) and given the conditions the one really good thing I have to say is I've found the C-Max does a damn good job of keeping you in the direction you want to go and the heavy back end tends to stay in line REAL well. And it's always felt like the traction control kicks in quite subtly and does what it needs to when it starts to lose grip. We have one particular spot in our subdivision where the turn onto a side street ALWAYS has ice and is never treated and it's right in the path of the turn. It's slow enough that it's fun to try and get the car to kick out a bit there and like clockwork every time the back end just grips and gets back in line. So the short summary of all that is I've personally been very pleased with winter weather handling of my C-Max here even on the all seasons (in comparison, the stock Energy Savers were the WORST by a mile).

A bit late of a response, but no. You cannot drive away just on the remote start function alone. That would be a HUGE safety/security risk. You will need to use your key as you would normally to 'start' the vehicle and it'll take over from the remote start. I imagine the message you see is just a minor glitch but ultimately it's telling you what I mentioned here. EDIT: Even for those of us with push-button/keyless start, we need to start the car normally to drive it, using the exact directions as indicated on the dash in your picture. It won't permit driving away with just the remote start active even though technically it should be able to see the key inside the cabin. This isn't a Tesla.

Unfortunately what you are intending to do would be useless and probably difficult or impossible to do given the vehicle has been designed with no belt driven accessories in mind off the ICE. To put it simply: The car will simply not operate without a working HVB. Even in a degraded mode, as long as it is able to supply some power and the vehicle doesn't see an issue with it otherwise (which would likely prevent the car from operating at all), all associated systems should function as well. This includes some level of EV propulsion, A/C compressor usage, resistive heating (for Energi models), and a working DC-DC converter and operation there. So if the car can run and drive, the DC-DC converter should be supplying 12V power and charging the 12V battery while the car is 'on'. Those who claim a link between dying 12V batteries and degraded HVB's (again, if it was 'dead' they'd know it as the car wouldn't run) miss so many other potential and more likely culprits. Not one of which is simply an aging 12V battery or one not properly maintained due to people not getting the TSB's done that have been implemented over the years to cover 12V drain and charging concerns. Also not resetting the battery age in the vehicle when replacing as it WILL affect charging behavior. And lastly a low 12V battery causing phantom issues in random modules around the car as a result, and it could all tie back to the previous points. I should note I did see the original post and comments on the FB group where this thought process originated and to be 100% frank I trust the info from a VERY small list of people over there and the other 90% or so I wouldn't trust at all. Most of the stuff posted there could really stand to have an FAQ made by someone who actually knows the vehicle and has accurate info and just spam it on every new post someone makes.

Been a hot minute since I've been on this forum and looks like the Energi forum is long gone. Curious if anyone still has the CSV file for the Torque app for all the Ford hybrid/Energi PIDs that had been primarily floating around on the Energi forum? Been scouring this one but haven't found anything useful. And outside of this forum it seems like it wasn't really shared around much anywhere else.

Curious if anyone else has run into this to potentially see if this is a known issue or just my random luck. Long story made short I normally don't use the washer fluid a lot throughout the year. Noticed the other day when topping off the tank that I leaked a good portion of what I put in on the ground. It seems like wherever the leak is at is high up enough as it still retains enough for a good amount of uses including the rear washer. So it makes me curious where exactly it is leaking at. I looked into the service manual and it looks like a major job to get to which I probably will not do myself, this is more a curiosity than anything. I intend to take it in this weekend to get some other work done and have this looked at as well.

Also I wouldn't trust putting anything other than Ford recommended fluid in the eCVT. Since this fluid comes in direct contact with the motor windings for cooling purposes, anything that can potentially eat away at the enamel on the wiring WILL eventually cause shorts in the motor windings.

I'll just leave my final response to this wall of text as 'to each his own'. I've already explained my uses above. For me it is worth the relatively small cost to keep the built in nav updated once a year or every other year. I actually quite enjoy using the Sync system, voice commands and all. 3.8 and 3.10 have made it plenty usable and the voice commands work every time. YMMV though but for me it just works.

Waze has always been great for me especially when dealing with unusual traffic. Even with an active Traffic subscription with Sirius, the nav doesn't seem to take advantage of it other than an OCCASIONAL alert along the way when an occurrence is up ahead on the route. But still not enough of a benefit in my personal use cases to use it over the built in nav. Built in nav for road trips: Traffic and other issues aren't that big of a deal as any reroute is going to likely be impossible or add more time than the slowdown. Short trips to unfamiliar locations in town: Waze or Google Maps. More updated info and reroute around traffic which matters more in the city.

Personally I much rather use the built in nav especially on longer road trips rather than tying up my phone, letting it cook itself running nav plus whatever else, etc.. The ~$50 eBay cost every other year or even once a year is worth it IMHO. Plus having accurate speed limit displays is nice, not to mention at least in my neck of the woods there has been a lot of new construction and new roads lately. If I had Android Auto available I would readily change my mind but without any easy way with Sync 2 to fully integrate a phone's nav into the audio system, the convenience of the built in nav is worth it to me to do the regular updates.