SnowStorm

I can't give a comparison but my 2nd set of OEM Michelins are at 79,000 miles and about right at the wear bars. There is only a small amount of inside edge wear and little, if any, wear related noise. Tires have been rotated about every 5k miles (my Michelin dealer does it for free) and the rear camber is about -0.8 left, -1.2 right (I have the adjustable arms and plan to set both to -0.8 degrees). Should hit 80,000 by the time the $70 rebate comes back on March 21. Not bad for 55,000 rated tires! Pressures have been 45 to 50 psi. This set has done far better than the 1st set for both wear and noise - rear camber adjustment and frequent rotations have paid off, I guess. :)

Finally changed the cabin air filter after 150k miles! (Is that a record?) Not a bad job really except for having to contort the filter like crazy to get it in (same for my back which now aches a bit!). A stink bug and a few bits of crud came out on the carpet so I took some pictures with my phone to make sure nothing else was in there. It all looked clear. Thanks to Plus 3 Golfer and ArizonaEnergy for instructions and photos. Dirty of course - a few pleats choked with dirt but you could still see some light here and there! One word of advice: if some shady looking character comes up to you on the street with a "good price" on the Snowstorm Maintenance Plan, run like mad! :arrive_alive:

So, the noise has continued the same after getting new tires? How many miles on the car?

Thanks. My noise is certainly quite different - and everything is working normally. 4 to 5+ miles per kWh sounds great and should improve with warmer weather. That usage should correspond to about half the energy cost of a hybrid.

What were the "signs of failure" you noted? I've been hearing a faint whirring sound at moderate speeds that is torque dependent (goes away with no torque) and seems related to EV mode. It has been there for maybe 20k or 30k miles. I'll see if anything changes with new tires but don't see how tire noise would be torque dependent. Might be a CV joint (?) - sure hope its not the transmission! Would love to hear about energy consumption on the Bolt! I hope it has good reporting of Watt-Hours per Mile (or equivalent).

My radio has died - similar symptoms to Annabug. For a while there would be a loud pop/blast of noise after which the sound system wouldn't work until turning car off/on again. Sometimes it would turn on but no sound and few functions would work. Now its just dead all the time. When you press the knob it alternates between a brief flash on the screen and no response at all. Pulled F67 and 79 and checked them but it didn't help. Does anyone know where the fault might be?

Does it small like a rodent or what? We haul so many weird things I'm not sure I would notice a strange smell! Hope you find the cause.

Trailer tow? Do newer manuals actually state that you can tow a trailer with the C-Max? If so, what do they actually say? How many pounds? Our 2013 printed manual says on page 248 (complete with warning triangle/exclamation mark) : TOWING A TRAILER WARNING: Never tow a trailer with this vehicle. Your vehicle is not equipped to tow. No towing packages are available through an authorized dealer. Has this prohibition been dropped?

What's going on? That's easy. They wanted to get rid of their staid old "grandma would look good in this car" look. They succeeded. How? I think they hired some out-of-work boom box designers from a few years back - the guys who gave us those ghastly and beastly atrocities that, in your wildest hallucinations, couldn't be called a "box". I used to think some of the car styling from the 1950s was rather wild but now its starting to look pretty good!

And while dreaming - add a mode where, while parked, the inverter provides 120/240 vac 60 Hz for camping or job-site power! Oh yes, and another selection for 208/120 vac 3 phase!

Take the VIN and go to owner.ford.com or the Etis site or a local Ford dealer with a good service reputation and check the following items: Any outstanding service actions? Did CSP 14B07 apply to this car and, if so, was it ever performed? This CSP was for the transmission problem - see this topic. My guess is that you will need to do this at a Ford dealer since it may have "expired" and won't show up on-line. Then as a "worst case" check, find out how much it would cost to repair the transmission if it did need it and if, somehow, it wasn't covered by warranty. Was TSB 14-0155 ever done on this car? It was for the dead 12V battery problem - see this topic. If not, find out the cost and have it done. Again, might need a dealer to check this one too since it has expired. It appears that the problem really did get fixed. I had one or two dead batteries but hone after this TSB was performed (and I got a new battery for free).We have a 2013 SE built in April with 150k miles (as of yesterday!) and a lifetime mileage of 49 mpg. My yearly average since last April is at 51.5 mpg indicated. I put in the adjustable links in the rear suspension to help with inside edge wear on the tires. That change along with frequent rotations has allowed my second set of tires to go 78k miles to date and stay quiet (or reasonably so). As others have said, a later model would be better but it all depends on prices and your own repair risk/cost analysis.

That's wild - but it won't work! Capsaicin is used medically for pain relief. So that chili love'n rodent won't fell the electric shock and will keep right on chewin'! But who cares about a little rodent? [True story] A good friend of ours took off in her Suburban and this big snake came up out from somewhere inside, went out the passenger window and across the hood! No, she didn't wreck - kept her cool - took a picture of it! I've seen the photo. Big snake going right across the hood at the base of the windshield!

We should remember too, I guess, that this modern generation of electrified vehicles is still quite new and changing. Therefore, a given model can't be expected to last all that long - especially one that wasn't designed to contain batteries (which should be under the floor). So.... can't wait to see what the next models will be like. When will we hear more about the Model E?

Well, that's a great idea. In the "early days" there was supposed to be a National Gathering but it fizzled. The Enterprise did return "home" once so don't know about going again but there is a lot to see around the Detroit area. Now I guess the Last C-Max should be Titanium trim but what color? We still like our White Platinum but think I'll vote for White Gold (seems it should be one of the new colors). What does everyone think? As to getting it, perhaps it should be auctioned! But on second thought, I think Ford should keep it at the Henry Ford Museum! The C-Max really does deserve a spot with all those other awesome historic Fords.

Yes, really nice! I especially liked seeing all the innards of the inverter and the many details pointed in all videos. Some statements do, I feel, need verification/correction and insisting on the battery being 281.2 volts (3.7 volts x 76 cells) is a bit of a stretch - you can't get 4 significant digits from 2. But enough of that! I also liked the demo of flipping the magnet to make the rotor turn - quite nice - and the cinematography was great, sharp and with good lighting. A lot of work went into making these videos for sure! :thumbsup: :clapping:

Melting ICE can get a bit messy but it keeps melting anyway! From this report: Passenger EV sales were below expectations for a number of years causing an oversupply of batteries, but: A large demand growth is forecast and "battery manufacturers have announced further capacity build despite oversupply." Electric buses used far more batteries than other passenger vehicles in 2016. Battery pack prices are forecast to fall to as little as $73 / kWh by 2030. They were $1000 in 2010. Batteries will be only 18% of car cost by 2030. It looks like EVs will be cheaper than ICE cars by 2025 (slide 8). Batteries from used EVs become stationary storage. "Daimler, GM, BMW and Nissan are actively engaged in second-life repurposing."

Grrrrr... now its our turn. The car was parked in a lot for a couple of hours today and when I got in there was this crack coming up from the lower left corner. I can't see any chips and I'm quite sure it wasn't there when I parked. Seems to have cracked for no reason - cloudy day in the 60s so not much heat.

At 150k miles The Enterprise has burned a bit over 3000 gallons. It may well end up at 300k miles and 6000 gallons. Paying 50 cents extra per gallon will be $3000. That's enough money to run an electric car (my next car, I hope) for, like, 75,000 miles! Now, I do spend extra for no ethanol because I don't want to take a chance on ethanol induced repairs down the road. There has to be some reason we can't use more than 10 percent! At least with the ability to use 87 and up, we have a lot of options and can pick the one we like.

I don't recall ever seeing a cover on mine. I use it for a WiFi interface to Forscan software and its plugged in all the time. There's another OBD port behind the cover at the left side of the dash.

Your title is correct. Accuracy refers to how nearly "correct" the reading is while precision refers to how fine the readings are (the resolution). The Accutire says it has a resolution of 0.5 psi (readout increments) and also claims an accuracy of 0.5 psi. That's a bit of a stretch. I would say they are just using terms interchangeably and who knows what the real accuracy is. Plus, if it doesn't have traceable calibration you can't be sure of anything anyway. I would also like to have a gauge with known accuracy but expect it will cost more than $12. You can go all out and get this one with 0.05 psi accuracy for $900!. Or, more sensibly, this one for $20 that claims to be "tested, certified accurate, & calibrated to ANSI B40.1 International Accuracy Standards (±2-3%)". You will have to take their word for it because I'm sure its not traceable. Note that this accuracy will only get you +/- 1.2 to 1.8 psi but it looks like a nice gauge. It also locks the reading until you release it - a nice feature. Hmmm, I might have to get one of these (or something similar). BTW, "digital" brings with it NO indication of better accuracy. All readings start out in the "analog" world and get converted to a digital value for readout. Again, the resolution (i.e. precision) of the digital readout is no indication of accuracy.

Next 250 miles was warmer ambient, 55F for several hours. TFT went to 185F, 130F above ambient. Even with some cabin heat (not recirc) the engine cooling fan was coming on periodically with WT at 230F. So, too much cover for 55F conditions. Looks like about 45F might be the break point where ICE stays warm without cooling fan needed.

Almost to 150k so does anyone know if there are alternates for transmission fluid? Is there a synthetic? Any value in getting the old fluid tested?

I'm no tire expert but I doubt if mileage would vary much between the two. They're both "Energy Saver" and Michelin gives both a 10 for efficiency (FWIW). One wouldn't expect to save any money disposing of a good set of tires even if the OEMs were a bit better. Just run them until you want new tires - but not above 44 psi. Per Michelin, the differences are (93V / 94V): Tread Depth: 9.5 / 8.5 32nds Max Load @ 44 psi: 1433 / 1477 lbs Weight: 22.18 / 22.71 pounds Max Inflation: 51 / 44 psi (not in above linked chart)

The snow didn't last long :cry: so I finally got around to making a real grill cover from clear flexible vinyl sheet with 4 clips at top and 4 at bottom. It covers essentially everything except the top slot above the FORD emblem. After 250 miles I can say it definitely works. Some weeks back I did some "baseline" runs to see how hot the transmission would get and it went to about 100F to 110F above ambient with engine coolant around 180F (I think). On this trip the ambient was 35F to 40F, the transmission went to about 140F above ambient (175 to 180F) and the engine stayed in the 220F to 230F range! Its a bit early to judge the increase in mileage but it could be 2 or 3 mpg. :) It will take several tanks of fuel to get a good feel for mileage since there is so much variation in conditions between trips (rain, wind, temps). I guess if the transmission gets too hot I'll cut a hole in front of the cooler. Does anyone know a good long term maximum temperature for the transmission coolant? Not the absolute maximum but what you could run at for 100k miles without any harm. (P.S. I switched to Trip 2 today to measure something and couldn't help noticing that since last reset (almost 5000 miles) the indicated mileage was 47.0 MPG! And that's during winter! Who said the C-Max isn't a 47 MPG car?!)

Hey Paul, will this arrangement work for a grill cover? When the weather warms up it goes away!