obob

I was thinking along these lines, though I understand you may have already eliminated this possibility. I was thinking I could use the Forscan ahndroid app with my bluetooth OBD to monitor water temp. What may also work is just using the temp gauge in MyView to see if it goes above the usually spot, or for that matter whether it reads correctly when cold and moves gradually like it usually does. FYI slbenz, I do not recall anyone on the forum having engine overheat light come on.

Brilliant !

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1116-spare-tire-solution-for-c-max-hybrid/

FYI "The actual laws on "coasting" are not about putting the car in neutral, but actually shutting the engine off. In the 60s and 70s people would "coast" down hills with the engine off to save gas. Naturally, no engine power means no power steering, no power brakes, and a lot of accidents were being caused from this, so they outlawed this. Some states have laws about putting it in neutral or disengaging the clutch as well, but MA does not prohibit engine-on coasting in neutral. FL, OR, NM, CT, VA, RI all have no-coasting laws even with the engine on." from https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130515042608AAvRyeP

I really liked the article. When I went to driving class for getting a speeding ticket the police officer teaching the class said something similar, something like you can count on being OK at 5 mph and usually 10. So I have set the cruise to 72 in a 65 so as to not worry about tickets. As I recall, I did get a speeding ticket in Massachusetts for 10 over, 35 in a 25. The ticket that got me into class was something like 42 in a 30. It probably helps not getting tickets being in a C-Max and american built utility car, verses a sports car.

As far as I can tell, there haven't been a lot of problems since the last update. (So you may have a unique situation. The past problems happened mostly when the car had been sitting awhile, like overnight.) I have something like this in my car and a dead battery is no big deal. http://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-12000mAh-Portable-Starter-Battery/dp/B00YE5Q182/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1450734545&sr=8-18&keywords=battery+jump I have had three dead battery surprises, none since the last update which was earlier this year. I have a volt meter I put into my 12v socket but I don't really use it much any more. It was not useful when I was getting the problems. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-New-Car-LCD-Battery-Volt-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter-Monitor-LCD-Digital-Display-/151876688890?hash=item235c8e5bfa:g:n1MAAOSwu-BWPAp5

The 2016 malibu without the hybrid has high epa numbers. ( Looking at Consumer Reports 2015 numbers, expects a big hit in the city mileage numbers, highway pretty close. Expect a big hit in headroom, 7[C-Max] vs 3.5 inches) Fuel Economy of 2016 Chevrolet Malibu EPA MPG MODEL City Comb Hwy 2016 Chevrolet Malibu Limited 4 cyl, 2.5 L, Automatic (S6), Regular Gasoline 24 City 27Combined 34 Highway 2016 Chevrolet Malibu 4 cyl, 2.0 L, Automatic (S8), Regular Gasoline 22 City 26Combined 33 Highway 2016 Chevrolet Malibu 4 cyl, 1.5 L, Automatic 6-spd, Regular Gasoline 27 City 31Combined 37 Highway http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2016_Chevrolet_Malibu.shtml

Things may be more complicated than this math. I got this from a post from this article: http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2298701/tire-load-ratings-do-they-matter Michelin says this about load rating: "A tire with a higher load index than that of the Original Equipment tire indicates an increase in load capacity. A tire with a load index equal to that of the Original Equipment tire indicates an equivalent load capacity. A tire with a lower load index than the Original Equipment tire indicates the tire does not equal the load capacity of the original and should not be considered for installation on the vehicle."

I don't visit the Energi forum much. Are they experiencing a higher frequency of transmission failures, or sooner mileage-wise transmission failures compared to the C-Max Hybrid?

Going to a lower load tire doesn't seem to be that big a deal to me. Here are some numbers Energi weight 3895 lbs Load capacity 825 lbs (3895+825 = 4720) Weight distribution (front-back) 55/45 And weight at capacity will most likely mostly be added to the rear. On both tires, original and the replacements, the capacity exceed the capacity of the car. (I got the numbers from Consumer Reports) Note: Load Capacity is the same for energi and the hybrid. Weight of hybrid is 3615

What's your mileage ? Thanks.

"Dealer holdback: This is money the manufacturer pays to the dealer only after a car is sold. It's typically 2 or 3 percent of either the invoice or the sticker price of the car. On a $20,000 car, a holdback represents $400 to $600. The holdback allows dealers to sell a car at invoice price (or even below invoice) and still make money. Most manufacturers offer holdbacks to their brands' dealers, but not all. You can check the holdback percentage before going shopping but don't try to build it into your negotiations. Dealers consider this money off limits for the purposes of price negotiation. Dealer cash: When a car isn't selling well, the manufacturer will sometimes offer an incentive — often as much as $2,000 — to move it off lots. That's known as dealer cash." from http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/where-does-the-car-dealer-make-money.html Also " new vehicle department of a car dealership accounts for about 30 percent of a dealership's gross profits. ... The used vehicle department represents nearly 26 percent of a dealership's gross profit ... service and parts department, which accounts for 44 percent of the dealership's gross profits, " As far as "being nice" it seems like I am learning how to "play the game" and "being nice" is part of it. ( Still a work in progress. )

Awesome !

I think your expectations are not unreasonable. My take is that sometimes people who get paid commissions have a skewed sense of what is OK, like trying to take a bone away from a dog.

I also purchased the Walmart one. According to the slickdeals post, "Please note, if you already used the rebate from this Walmart deal from early October, you will not be eligible - daisybeetle" One saving grace, I was able to get 0w-20 from Walmart. Would have had to get 5w-20 on this deal.

I would keep a look out on craigslist and ebay for used. It would probably good to know what cars come standard with the rims you are looking for to help with the search. Though I have never bought rims, a lot of the listings on ebay are people that want to get top dollar and are willing to be patient. But some are from people that just want to get rid of the stuff. Craigslist usually has great deals from people that want to get rid of stuff but that could be tough to get what you want. I just took a look and saw 4 rims that probably won't fit for $100 (https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/wto/5306832527.html) I liked the idea for I don't need the sporty performance. And with the condition of the roads and all the manholes on them I also would think the ride would be better. Keep in mind you need handle the pressure sensors in the wheels.

If you live near an Advance Auto Parts store http://slickdeals.net/f/8344903-5-qt-quaker-state-full-synthetic-motor-oil-9-99-after-rebate-free-store-pickup-advance-auto-parts Apparently you can by two

http://www.nbclosangeles.com/news/local/flushservices.html "That's why Honda issued a memo to mechanics advising them not to perform engine flushes. Other major car-makers, including Ford, General Motors, and Nissan have all issued similar advisories against the service. Why? Over time, gummy deposits can build up inside your engine. The chemicals used for engine flush, are supposed to break up those deposits. But car-makers say, pieces of that broken up sediment can clog up other parts of the engine and ruin it." "That's because Nissan and other car-makers say damage resulting from engine flushes won't be covered by your warranty."

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/culture/commuting/does-my-car-really-need-a-complete-engine-flush/article9624076/

Basically this reminds me that no matter how friendly the dealer seems, or how trustworthy they sound, or how high a reputation their ratings reflect, whether it be service or parts or sales, a dealer is a danger zone. They are the hunters and I am the prey. Though "Only yourself to blame" I don't agree with.

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/user/1579-fordservice/ I hope you can get a resolution that works for you.

Here is a ebay auction for a C-Max ( bidding over in 2 days) to give you some idea of what the selling price is going to be. (if you did not have your trans replaced.) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2013-FORD-C-MAX-HYBRID-SE-EDITION-/181939711040?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a5c73ac40:g:E~EAAOSwt6ZWUk8p&item=181939711040

Keep in mind that the 2013s often need transmissions. You may be getting a car that may need a transmission and selling one that has already had the fix. That is like a 7000 dollar repair if it is not under warranty. (2014s and 2015s and late build 2013s have the fix.)

With the front passenger seat pushed forward I am pretty sure a tall person can lie down diagonally with the back seats folded down, feet by the passenger seat. The passenger seat really pulls way up, so far up you can't really sit in it.

Having the transmission replaced is a huge plus.