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Punchline to save time reading: secure the spare tire for when the seats are down and a dog is in the back, or just as a good thing to do. This reminds me of something I have been wanting to post. I often take my dog in the car and lower the back seats to keep the seats clean and allow him to move from front to back easily. I had bought a nylon strap to secure the tire but never used it. I was travelling without the dog but the seats were still down. A light turned yellow and I thought the guy in front was going to go through and I was going to go through also. Well he didn't or he changed his mind. I had a 20% score on braking. The tire moved quickly into the back of the front seat. If the dog was in the car things could have gone really badly. The tire is now secured with strap. It is a long strap and it loops around the metal loops that are exposed when the hatch door is open(toward the bottom). The strap was less that $10 from ebay.

This question has come up. Thought I would post this. From Car talk website "Bill says that over-inflation almost never causes tire failure. The standard tire is inflated to about 30 to 35 pounds per square inch. Under hot weather and highway conditions, the temperature of the air inside the tire rises about 50 degrees. That increases the pressure inside the tire about 5 psi. The burst pressure of a tire is about 200 psi. So unless you had your tires pumped up to 195 psi (trust us, you didn't), you didn't come anywhere near bursting the tire from too much internal pressure." ("Bill spent his career as a tire engineer, and now runs a company called TFI: Tire Forensics Investigation") http://www.cartalk.com/content/it-possible-burst-tire-too-much-air-pressure-find-out

I didn't do the best job on that post. The electric space heater in the car was for winter days so I wouldn't have to run the engine just to warm the car up. I would consider this if it did not drain the 12V battery but come off the HVB.

In case I was not clear, I was proposing hooking the deep cycle battery to the battery in the C- So are you saying that when the C-Max uses 12 volt power with the key in the engaged position (engine will go on when needed) the power does not come from the 12 volt battery but kind of comes from the HVB, so the 12 volt battery does not really get depleted. If this is the case, then my idea to hook the deep cycle battery to the car 12 volt doesn't do much when the key is on. To keep the engine from running a lot in the cold, it might work to charge the HVB to a high state by tricking the car to think you want the heater on until the HVB is charged. IF this is the case it might be a good idea to use a electric space heater to heat the car with the key engaged.

http://site.theinverterstore.com/blog/inverter-faq/battery-run-time/106-106/ I assume you verified whether you need the full sine wave for the article mentions that some need full sine-wave, some just modified sine wave. I would be concerned about shortening the life of the C-Max battery. I was thinking the deep cycle battery could be attached to the C-Max battery so the C-max battery doesn't die from frequent charge and discharge. I also would be concerned there may be substantial energy losses if the extension cord is long. You are in the good position to have quite a few months to think about it.

What was the wear pattern ? It would have been interesting to me to examine the used shocks. Were they equally weak ?

This might save you some money and help the grabbiness. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4083-brake-rottors-strange-wear-pattern/?do=findComment&comment=64806 If you think the problem is with the rear brakes the emergency brake can be applied. This might shake up some glazing. There is a lot of incentive for a mechanic to recommend a brake job that has to do with the high profit of a brake job.

This might be useful: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2599-my-2c-ev-driving/ There is a picture with the second bar outlined in red. The basic idea is to use the electric motor to get up to 10 to 20 mph because the electric motor is more efficient in starting things up from 0, and then use the gas motor to accelerate from there but do not go above the second bar on the Empower screen for a lot of the time that is a very efficient use of the gas motor. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2599-my-2c-ev-driving/?p=26845

This subject was discussed in one of the topics - not sure which one. The quick answer is don't start planning for it. It should last a longggg time. No one has had to replace one as far as I know.

The car gets lower mileage in the very cold for the engine is not efficient unless it is warm. There are message threads about covering up the grill to keep the engine warmer. Also, the more the heater is used, the more the engine needs to run just to heat up the water for the heater. It will try to utilize that work to recharge the battery, but once that is charged, like if the heater is set to a high temp in the very cold, the engine runs only to heat the water and so the car is more like a non-hybrid. Also I find it important to go really soft on the acceleration in the cold when first starting out for when cold, the engine injects a very rich mixture (heavy on the gas) so the car does not stall when acceleration is needed.

When I try to play it I get this: "This video is private"

Maybe they would have "recycled" them on ebay.

I have a donut spare and it is not the exact size. I tested it out and it pulls a bit on braking, pulls a lot on hard braking, if it is on the front. If I had time and got a flat on the front and had a lot of driving to do, I might put the spare on the back and mount a full size on the front. But I would be OK with just driving carefully with it on the front. Having said this, I would think the snow tire as a spare would be pretty good. Also, I have seen good deals on used tires on ebay. It is kind of a buyers market. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=michelin+energy+saver+as+225-50-17+used&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmichelin+energy+saver+as+225-50-17+used+93V.TRS0&_nkw=michelin+energy+saver+as+225-50-17+used+93V&_sacat=0

Consumer reports called the niro's ride not sporty and not engaging and mundane and suggested buying a C-Max or Fusion if you want something more fun and save gas. The comment I was referring to is around 1:40

To consider with respect to highway driving: Drag coefficient Niro .29 Prius V .29 C-Max .30 ( difference between .29 and.30 is like 3.33% ) Prius .24 Tesla S .24 ( difference between .24 and.30 is like 20% )

FYI, I went on tirerack.com to see what tires they would sell for a C-Max. I tried to cut and paste it but it didn't work so well. Basically, they only recommend one wider tire 235 40 19 on the front and its not 17" They seem to be open to selling 255 40 17 on the rear. (Though I am in no way recommending this, especially with the 2013 C-Max's tendency to cup.) (This did not cut and paste right so I deleted it below.) Optional Wheel Diameter: 15"225/60-15Optional Wheel Diameter: 16"225/55-16Optional Wheel Diameter: 18"225/45-18Optional Wheel Diameter: 19"235/40-19Optional Wheel Diameter: 20"225/35-20

When you say it would not fit, in what way? While that tire is bigger than standard, people do use snow cables so there is some wiggle room.

Just a thought - maybe something to do with the active noise cancellation being out of order. There may be a fuse that can be pulled to turn it off. " it made it so when I used hands free phone, no one can understand what I'm saying cause the ANC is cancelling parts of my voice." http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4799-tsb-14-0151-powertrain-droning-noise-active-noise-cancellation-anc/?do=findComment&comment=61803 The bluetooth speaker works well for me.

As far as I know, there is no electric heater on the Hybrid, and I assumed that the Energi has electric heat and it has heat taken from engine heat. Perhaps an energi owner can comment, but I suspect the electric heat really drains the battery quickly. Of course this doesn't include electric seat heaters.

If you have amazon prime, that might be a good deal. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FP-70-Cabin-Air-Filter/dp/B008PJDOSS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487017118&sr=8-2&keywords=c-max+cabin+air+filter Here's one on ebay for less that $10 dollars, says OEM but doesn't mention motorcraft. Seller has 100% positive reviews. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Replacement-Lincoln-Ford-Mazda-Cabin-Air-Filter-FP70-CV6Z-19N619-CF1248-USA-/252569738765?hash=item3ace545e0d:g:8h8AAOSwNphWXfsz&vxp=mtr

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3094-ssm-44252-hybrids-in-taxi-service-hf35-transmission-bearing-noise/ http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5288-mileage-and-build-date-for-ecvt-that-have-failed/

I am curious why you want a 2013 with the known transmission problems. Are you going to look for one that had the transmission replaced?

There are like 193 Niros listed on cars.com so apparently the dealers have them or are getting them very soon. Only some of them have pictures. I remember when the C-max was a new car there were listings on cars.com with VIN numbers but the dealers didn't actually have them yet but there were close to getting them.

That is something I hope not to have to do. Do you think it could have bent the door ? I assume the pried far from the hinge or lock. I may want to move up my battery replacement to avoid that or perhaps wire up to the battery in a way that I can access a place to jump the car without access to battery terminals. I also could run a test to see if that happens on my car when I get time, though not in the foreseeable future.

I have a 2013 and have had 3-4 dead battery experiences. I usually do not lock my door so I can't say whether my key worked. I assume you have had the updates that were suppose to have fixed this problem. Since my last update I have not had a battery problem. In-between my last update and my first battery problem which required battery replacement, there were updates that seems to turn something off if the battery gets so low the engine won't start so I did not get the complete drain and battery needing to be replaced. Could you be more specific about how they got in, in case that happens to me? I kind of figured the rod was put into the door at the rear most side of the door. Sounds like you had a good AAA person. Thanks.