obob

I am wondering is there a possibility this is not a trend. I am not that optimistic. The way I look at it, people that drive a lot and their transmissions need to be replaced while under warranty may be the fortunate ones, for a $7000 bill would total a car in a lot of cases and if not totalled be quite a shock for a car that is suppose to save money. Maybe Ford will extend the warranty for C-Maxes with the original transmission. ( I am not holding my breath. ) I wish I had bought the C-Max with the manual transmission - oh, never mind. NOTE: I am referring to 2013 C-Maxes build before the transmission modifications.

What was your mileage and what kind of driving do you do (city vs highway) ? I ask to keep an eye out for this being something others and myself shouldn't be surprise happening in the future.

Some of the transmissions on early built 2013 C-maxes are failing this may or may not be a problem, the understanding is still developing. I am not sure where the cut off it as far as manufacture date. The later ones had improvements. There are some messages about this on this forum. I might be worth a look on cars.com to see how much a new c-max would cost. The battery thing can be a pain, but a portable battery jumper has made it more of an inconvenience. I really like my car. It is big, great driving position, very good visibility, yet small on the outside and easy to drive and park. Plenty fast enough for me.

My dealer told me in the fall.

This speaks to what is going on with me. I had my first rotation at 14500 miles. Afterwards the front tires tires sounded loud, like a bad bearing. I had the dealer rotate them back. The sound is less. It may just be with one of the tires. Why do tires "break" just being on the back ? Does Michelin warranty against this ? Are the LRR tires somehow weaker ? In the past I would never rotate and change the back tires every other tire purchase. I wonder if the tire problem is putting undo pressure on something. Perhaps keeping the pressure high has negative effects.

THIS is something I would feel good about, like Ford really had there act together. Tesla probably has this type of thing already built into the car, and would be surprised if that were not the case with Ford in the future.

That's a dicey situation. The dealer is not trying to get Ford to pay for it. I suspect it is more profitable to bill the owner. Perhaps in the quest to make the car lighter, mice have an easier time of chewing through things. At some point, maybe one of those pipe endoscope cameras would help.

Thanks Plus 3 Golfer. When I ask my contact person at the dealer he just said it is written on the bill. It may be that he really didn't know. More info -> Body control module From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia In automotive electronics, body control module is a generic term for an electronic control unit responsible for monitoring and controlling various electronic accessories in a vehicle's body. Typically in a car the BCM controls the power windows, power mirrors, air conditioning, immobilizer system, central locking, etc. The BCM communicates with other on-board computers via the car's vehicle bus, and its main application is controlling load drivers – actuating relays that in turn perform actions in the vehicle such as locking the doors or dimming the salon overhead lamp.

SSM 44252 - Hybrids In Taxi Service - HF35 Transmission Bearing Noise Some 2013 C-MAX Hybrid and 2013-2014 Fusion Hybrid vehicles operating in taxi service may exhibit a metal-on-metal scraping-type sound from the transmission. This noise will be present in all gear ranges including neutral when the vehicle is moving, but will not be present when the vehicle is stationary or in park. The current transmission assembly (7000) service parts incorporate design improvements to enhance durability under the unique operating conditions of taxi service. So who needs to be concerned ? Does the 7000 assembly prevent the problem that bigalpha and ptjones and other may have ? How can someone know whether they have these improvements ? My guess is the 2013s manufactured late in the year have the improvements. I suspect is Ford is in damage control. This is an expensive problem. I think it is possible that ALL the transmissions will have the problem eventually. The people whose transmissions fail sooner so are under warranty are in a better position because it sounds like a transmission repair could total the car. My father had a Honda whose transmission went bad after the warranty on a model with know transmission problems and Honda subsidized the job so it cost him 1500. Similarly I had a Toyota with a trans problem out of warranty with a model know for problems - even had a secret warranty - but I did not get an subsidy.

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3094-ssm-44252-hybrids-in-taxi-service-hf35-transmission-bearing-noise/page-2?do=findComment&comment=46461 As I recall, sometime in 2013 they corrected the problem bearings, sometime after my C-Max was manufactured. I never really believed the comment this problem was inherit in taxi driving.

UPDATE: Dealer had car for two full days. Said they it was the "loose pin connector C228E, PIN 2, GROUND CIRCUIT GD140 BK-GY" They did not do any firmware updates. I mentioned TSB 14-0155 and what I got from that communication was something like I am not even writing the number down, our technicians will handle it. So I am glad I got the car back. So maybe this is not some systemic problem other people may have.

Thanks.

Just got my 2nd battery failure. (Completely dead) Last one was over a year ago. (manufacture date 3-2013) My small battery jumper did work though it was challenging to find a good ground. Everything went on like it was never bad. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D42AFS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is at the dealer now. About a month ago I did get the SYNC 4.4 update. I started the day before the failure seeing a very low state of charge for the HVB. My 12 volt voltage tester that plugs in the 12 volt adapter wouldn't go on. That's how dead things were. As soon as the motor started the voltage was above 12. I thought that was behind me. I apologize for my posts suggesting not to worry about the problem, that it is rare. ( It wasn't as rare as I thought. ) Even though I had the jumper, it still feels pretty bad. I called the dealer to see if they wanted to have it towed in to examine it dead and they said just jump it and drive it in. PS: there are now a lot of battery threads. I used this one because it mentioned the latest TSB. 14-0155

You can go to this site and using your pin see what TSBs (technical service bulletins) you car is eligible for. http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=EFC101CE287D8236D1120F3F7DA938BE.fcvas507 Some people get a battery jumper to keep in the car. I have one but have not had to use. If I were you, I would strongly consider getting an extended warranty and one of the better ones. I am not sure what they cost when you are out of the standard warranty. Here is a place some people go to get a good price. http://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com/ I don't think reading all the messages on the battery issue is reasonable at this point. The situation is much different after the first TSB. Some of the latter ones would be good to read.

The battery indicator shows full for me after going down a very long steep hill.

Here what I have done to make trips more comfortable. I have used my sharper image shiatsu back massager. It plugs into the 110V outlet. Not perfect but I feel pretty darn good getting a massage for like 1.5 hours. It can get painful if I lean too hard up against it. I also have a neck massager and a heating pad that I use. I actually haven't been using the C-Max AC adapter that much because it has been tripping the circuit breaker and doesn't untrip for hours. I need to duplicate the problem for the dealer for they will not replace it on my word. I have been using a monster AC adapter that plugs into the 12V and it works fine.

Basically I don't know for sure but it may be fine. "The most typically used engine management systems found in automobiles today have a knock sensor that monitors if knock is being produced by the fuel being used. In modern computer controlled engines, the ignition timing will be automatically altered by the engine management system to reduce the knock to an acceptable level" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

I have had problems in that area as I described in another thread, not the one above. I described my frustration trying to get a dealer to disable it. Ended up putting a felt thing around the unlock, cut from a felt thing that goes on the bottom of a table leg. (Can buy on ebay or amazon.) I did not think that would solve the problem but it did. I will recommend this. I have experienced the windows down plus rain. Not nice. UPDATE: Sorry, I thought this message was going into the new thread somebody started.

I would respond but my humor has been at the dealer for repairs and I didn't get a loaner.

I kind of assumed the reason for the turning radius being so wide was because of lack of space. Bigger wheel wells mean a bigger car which means less gas mileage, or even more of a crapped or angled position for my left foot when driving. I am satisfied with the trade off Ford made.

you can get a feel for what c-max's are selling for from cars.com This does not seem like a good price to me. http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/626006802/overview/ ( granted this dealer charges a big service fee but its a 2015 ) If I were to get a 2013, I would get the longest and furthest and lowest deductible service contract included. You might be surprised at the hit in resell value. ( I was with mine.)

I agree with all of the above. Plus, I haven't even thought about it for like a year in a half.

Consumer Reports gives the xICE the highest rating for rolling resistance, so I am thinking a substantial portion of the drop in mileage could be due to the colder temps and using the engine to heat the car.

This kind of makes me want to get a low deductible if I get an extended warranty. The cost of an injector might be close to the cost of the deductible.

I wonder how a combination of a tire like the Cinturato P7 All Season Plus on the front and the OEM tires on the back would work out. I am not used to a new car getting really good tires. I am used to getting excited about replacing the original tires to get an even better ride. That certainly was the case with my last two mini-vans. It would be nice if the OEM tires had a higher UTQG.