C-MaxJaxon

It's unlikely that Microsoft code runs all the systems in the car. The car's computer has to be based on a RTOS like QNX or TRON.

I mostly go to the coin-operated self-service high pressure sprayer bays. Nothing but water touches the paint. Sometimes, I dry it off with a towel if I want it spot free.

Couldn't find anything in the manual on how to use the blade. I don't remember if someone at the dealer showed me that or if I just figured it out.

I have to think there is something wrong with some of the cars getting very low mileage. I don't even have to try to get averages in the high 30 range in temps below freezine. And 40-50+ should be routine on trips with the engine already warmed up.

It's on page 281 of the manual. Resetting the Oil Life Monitoring System Note: Reset the oil life monitoring only after an oil change. 1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine. For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the start button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start the engine. 2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time. 3. Keep both pedals fully pressed. 4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be displayed. 5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be displayed. 6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals. 7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be displayed. 8. Rotate the key to the off position. For vehicles with push-button start, press the start button to turn the vehicle off completely.

I've been using the heated seats instead of the climate control since I got the car and discovered that the engine shut off as soon as you turn off the heat. The seats are not quite enough when the temperature is in the single digits or colder.

There was one more idea I had been thinking of and couldn't remember, but now I do. An "eco-heat" setting on the climate control where it will only give as much heat as it can without turning on the ICE. If the engine cools from extended EV mode in low speed driving, the fan speed will drop until it's warm enough again.

Mine goes to EV mode at every stop unless the engine is still cold or I have the heat on and the engine isn't warm enough to provide the temperature set on the climate control.

Both 16GB and 32GB USB drives have worked fine for me. And Winamp on my Android phone plays music over Bluetooth with no problems.

Remote start is an optional accessory that has to be installed by the dealer. I think the C-Max Energi plugin comes with remote start. http://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/c-max/2013/electronics/remote-start.html

I thought you were supposed to re-insert the key into the slot perpendicular to the remote and use the remote as a lever.

I've tried BP Invigorate 91 and Top Tier 93 octane as well as regular 89 octane mid-grade E10 and even E15, and haven't noticed any difference in power. But of course I'm not driving aggressively anymore now that I have a car that shows how efficiently I'm driving every time I shut it off.

Motor Trend comparo with Prius V. "...the Toyota returned 39.4 mpg combined, whereas the Ford was good for only 37.3 mpg." http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/alternative/1304_2012_toyota_prius_v_vs_2013_ford_c_max_hybrid_comparison/

http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showpost.php?p=369600&postcount=6

Plus, with keyless ignition, the keys are going to be in your pocket or purse (murse?) so that makes it even more unlikely.

I always click (middle click to open new tab) the circle or star to the left of the thread title. It will jump you to the last unread post. Most forums have that feature and I figured everyone knew about it.

The charge of the battery goes up and down repeatedly throughout every trip in the car. It will run the gas engine for a while to charge up, go to EV mode as long as it can until the charge is low or you press the accelerator too hard, then the engine will restart and run for a while to charge it back up. The regen only adds a small amount of recharging unless you are going down long downhills. I can't offer a good explanation for mileage increasing for owners over time. The engine break-in may help some. Mileage typically goes up and down with the temperature. New owners may figure out ways to increas mileage, like the list of tips in this thread. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/861-fuel-saving-tips-and-tricks-part-1/

The C-Max does not come with a keypad. It is only available as an accessory. Not sure why you would want one since you need the fob to allow the doors to unlock and the car to start wirelessly. Seat memory and adjustable pedals are not available on any C-Max models. The battery level will be wherever it was when the car was last turned off. It may be less than 20% or it may be at 80%, but it is likely to be on the low side due to the way EV+ works.

I've observed that the engine will start on startup if the temperature is below about 32F, even if the battery has a lot of charge. If it's above freezing on the dash display, it usually goes to EV mode right away and won't start the engine until the battery is low or I press the accelerator too hard.

My problem was not with EV mode refusing to engage. It would go into EV mode with light load on the engine. But on the Empower display that shows the threshold, the blue bar was very low and would only allow coasting or very light pressure on the accelerator. I am pretty sure it is somehow related to the cold temperature, possibly a temp sensor somewhere telling it to limit battery output. The threshold slowly moved up as the car warmed up. The weather is warmer now and EV mode has returned to normal.

The temperature today is close to zero and my C-Max kept the engine running and charging the battery longer than usual, and had very limited threshold in EV mode when it allowed it. The threshold seemed to creep up slowly before I arrived at my destination, but EV+ didn't increase it. I haven't seen this happen before with similar temps. Anyone else seen the same?

I don't usually use the auto headlights because they turn on when backing out of the garage during the day. My previous car would flash a warning on the screen when the headlights are off and it's dark outside or the wipers are on.

This happened to me again a couple more times. The fan wouldn't come on even on max defrost until I power cycled the climate control three times. The defrost blower should come on even if there's no heat yet. I consider this a safety issue with the windows fogging up. I didn't think of trying to increase the fan speed manually, but will try it next time.

http://www.mercurynews.com/cars/ci_22493369/review-2013-ford-c-max-hybrid (low 40s, 41.0 and 47.4 MPG with temps in 30s and 40s)

Here's my random list of dislikes that I've been accumulating. Definitely some overlap with the other lists above. No LED tail lights or turn signals No option for HID, LED or projector beam headlights Wheels are not that attractive, only one wheel available Alignment and width of panel gaps is inconsistent Rear view mirror looks cheap Sun visors are sorta flimsy and don't snap back in easily when swiveling Some controls like the ambient lighting buttons feel cheap Window switches are too easy to hit express mode Brakes are too touchy Lack of gear indicator next to shifter Steering wheel should be slightly thicker Stitching on steering wheel is rough and sharp Passenger seat should be power adjustable on higher trim level Hood prop rod is cheap Roof antenna looks dated The top left dash vent is reflected in the door glass right where you look at the door mirror Rear of the car gets very dirty Can't program the right side of the instrument cluster with the screens of the left side Touch screen is sluggish and doesn't always respond MFT bugs galore Heated seats can be a bit warm on level 1 unless it's pretty cold Back seats aren't that comfortable No adaptive cruise available No warning when the headlights are off when it's dark outside Need current MPG in numeric format rather than the bar gauge that is hard to read