METROMAN

Wow, interesting. As you said, that's good info for people later.

Repair order says BCE module reprogram. Reprogrammed all modules, 5 total. Performed battery and electrical draw test. Charge battery/text good Draw test ok Drops to .05 amps No additional info on order. Hopefully it will be ok now. Guess I'll start checking the voltage daily and see if it starts dropping again.

Well been sick for a few days and just picked up the car this morning. The day i got the call from the service advisor, I ended up going back to the dealership and speaking directly to the service manager. I explained how I have had the car in several times before for the same issue, and nothing had ever been found. Also reminded him that other than myself, no one else had ever serviced the car but them, and despite the occasional battery issue, I'd been very happy with their service. I also stated that it sure was a shame that my 7 year 100k Ford extended warranty had recently expired, and it sure would have been nice if the issue could have been solved during that time period when i might have only paid a $50 deductible. I also mentioned the customer satisfaction bulletin for the module software update, how it had been issued several years ago, and no one had ever mentioned it to me, nor applied it to my vehicle. I then stated how I was asked to sign the estimate statement, and that the repairs would not exceed that amount without my permission. I further stated how there seemed to be a breakdown in communication, and possibly in their company policy. I also stated that I hoped we could work something out to help make me a happy customer again and that it could be a win win for both of us. Well, he listened, seemed genuinely concerned, and was rather upset that I hadn't been contacted for an updated authorization. He asked if they could keep the car for another day while he looked into it further. I told him keep it all week if you need to, please just see if you can figure it out. Long story short, I was charged $123 total for all the "diagnostic work" and they threw in the software update for free. Hopefully it's healed now. I made sure to stop by and thank him for his help, and I intend to follow up with a thank you card. You gotta feel for those guys, Their bosses are probably always saying they need to improve profits, and customers always complaining. I will check tomorrow and see/post what number update they did and post it.

Well, just got a call from the stealership. Said they couldn't find anything wrong with the battery, or any drain from the system. They suggested I get all the modules software updates to handle a possible drain from them. Since I was told they couldn't find any drain, and he couldn't say it would really help, I declined that service I now owe $295 for the checkout, (which told me nothing) and they wanted an additional $200 to update the software that I declined. The real kicker was, when I dropped the car off, they had me sign a form stating if it wasn't a warranty item, my checkout fee could run between $94 and $194, AND they would contact me first if it was going to run any higher. Guess what they didn't do. Yep, no call to get authorization to exceed $194. Anybody else had the above mentioned update?

Not sure if anything is live. Patient is sitting at the dealership right now, awaiting a verdict.

2013 SEL with 81,000 miles. Replaced oem 12 volt battery after about 5 years. Ford replacement replaced last April. Replacement #2 now dead as a hammer. Same thing one month ago. When that happened, I put it on a battery tender overnight until it showed a completed charge. Car not driven since then. Voltage the day before thanksgiving was 2.74 volts measured under the hood. Yesterday it dropped to 2.25. This afternoon the reading was 1.94. Called dealer yesterday and told them I'd just drop it off, and they can keep it for a few days. Hopefully they can figure something out.

I think that might be a vent hose.

My better half called me at work yesterday and said the check engine light started flashing as she was on the way home. She was almost home when it happened, so no long drive with it flashing. She also said it seemed to be running fine. Just plugged in my scanner and got the P0302 code, misfire on cyl 2. Light was not flashing on me when I started the engine. I did have to let the hybrid battery run down before the engine would start running. Anyways, no light, no rough running, all seems right with the world, except for the code that's in the system memory. I didn't clear the code. Thought I'd just leave it in case we end up at the Stealership for repairs. Seems to me i recall reading somewhere about some Cmax injectors having an issue with clogging. I just dumped in a can of Berryman fuel treatment for cleaning injectors for good measure. Hopefully that will clean it up and the problem will be solved. Car manufacture date is 04/13. Anyone else seen anything similar?

Well our warning popped up today. Told the wife I'd check the forum for a fix. Sure enough, I wasn't let down. Thanks folks.

Holy Cow, 200k already? You must be doing some serious cruising.

Well, 007 came back for a visit again yesterday. Got down on it and my daughter's car that was following behind us disappeared. Do we have a "Ford" explanation/ fix for this crazy issue yet? 61,500 miles. Mileage approximately 44-46 mpg these days.

The car seemed to act fine all last week. No gremlins yet. I guess replacing the 12 v battery gave us piece of mind, if nothing else.

Decided to have the dealer replace the 12 v battery while it was there. It was 4 years old and probably gonna die Christmas day or something anyway. Lol They said that they couldn't find anything wrong, but suggested performing TSB 13-8-11. Intermittent inoperable front controls interface module buttons with Myford Touch less Sony branded FCIM. Applies to 2013 Cmax and Escape models. They did say I might be able to download it to a thumb drive and install it myself. $109.00 if they do it.

Jump started the car to get it on the tow truck and it ran for 3-4 min. Everything seems to have healed itself. Starts right up, radio works correctly, yada, yada. Of course the dealer called and said they can't find anything wrong. They want to keep it overnight and see if it dies again.

Duh, I must have taken a double dose of my stupid pills this am. Didn't know the fob could be used as a tool. What will they think of next? LOL I'm also thinking the battery is toast. Strange thing, I was just pricing out a new battery last night after reading the forum post about battery longevity. Ford roadside assistance is on the way to tow it to the stealership now.

Update Just went outside to pull the fuses as suggested. Can't even get in the car now. Both key fobs won't unlock the door, and the manual key contained in the fob turns to the left in the key cylinder, but doesn't unlock it either. Not sure if it should turn left, or right. It won't turn right at all. Never tried it before, so not sure which way it should turn. Not looking like a good day. Grrrrr...... Looks like the key should turn to the right to unlock. Grabbed some pliers and turned it. Very stiff. Everybody needs to try theirs before they get locked out. Looks like the battery is stone dead. No horn, nothing.

Wife's 2013 started another crazy thing today. Radio had no volume control with the knob, can't turn off the radio, can't hear people when using the phone, voice command lever on the steering wheel doesn't do anything, The radio took about about 10 seconds to turn off after the car was shut down and the door was opened. Seems to me to be some type of body module that controls multiple functions. IDEAS?

I dropped off our Cmax last week for the door latch recall and also received a 2017 Fusion for a loaner. It wasn't a hybrid, but the Titanium model. Very nice, quiet, comfortable ride. I was also impressed with the screen, self dimming high beams, nav, yada, yada. However.... I would not consider one, because I prefer the utility of a hatchback. I also like sitting up higher, and the ease of entry and exit in the Cmax. The best mileage I could get (on the screen) was 28 mpg. Not interested in trading that for our usual 46 in the Cmax. Definitely a very nice ride, just not for me.

Thanks for the info.

I bumped it into neutral and pulled it back into drive. It was fine after that. I drive a 2014 Mitsubishi Mirage that has a CVT. If I don't lift up on the gas when accelerating, it takes forever to shift into high gear. This is a two speed CVT that you can actually feel shift, even tho it has the normal CVT variable pulley belt system. It reminds me of the old GM powerglide (slip and slide) transmissions. Some of you old farts like me will remember those. Lol

Drove the wife's 2013 the other day and noticed something really weird. I pulled away from a shopping center unto the highway, and heard the engine sounding a lot louder than normal. The "engine" was running at the time, and I immediately reached over to the gearshift, to put it in drive, all the while thinking I had mistakenly placed it in low. Wrong answer, it was already in drive, but wasn't upshifting or whatever. My wife then said, "I'm glad that happened to you". She then told me that it has happened to her several times before, and that she had done the same thing as me when it happened. Car has 53k miles. I recall my neighbor also had a 2013, and her trans went out at 80k. She ended up trading it in on a Fusion. Anybody else experienced this issue?

Well, it's been awhile since I've been on here. Drove my wife's car up to Lancaster, PA this past weekend and the 007 smoke screen was back. Had to pull unto the interstate and nailed it. Noticed all the cars behind me disappeared, shrouded in an unbelievably thick cloud of smoke. After a few seconds a white Ford Explorer emerged from the cloud. I know he had to be ticked, as his car was probably covered in soot. I decided to punch it one more time, and it did it again. I couldn't get it to act up any more after that. This was the exact same thing that I posted about, a couple years ago in this same thread. My wife drives it 90% of the time, and never blows it out, so I'm sure it's probably carbon. Wondering what the long term issues might be. Other than that issue, we're very happy with the car's 47.5 mpg average. We are at 39k miles now.

Ours is screwing up again. 3 times this week. Only way to get it working again was to turn off the car & start everything back up. Anybody notice that with the hotter temps, 85+ that the system isn't cooling enough? Usually run the system at 73 but lately having to run it at 70-71 to keep things cool.

Just noticed this thread. Your issue is also exactly what I posted about under my thread titled AC issue, 3 days short of a year ago. Restarting the car seems to be the only way to fix it when it happens. Reboot the Microsoft system.

This same thing happened to me the other day. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle getting on the interstate & I couldn't hardly see the cars behind me. Big time black smoke. Did it twice the same day. Tried to do it yesterday & couldn't make it happen. Never had anything like that happen before. 12 k miles on it. Anybody else seeing this lately?