Jump to content

C-Max Failed Emissions Test for Inspection Sticker


darrelld
 Share

Recommended Posts

I took my C-Max to the local Ford dealer to take care of the recall issues and get a State Inspection sticker. After 3 days the C-Max was returned without an inspection sticker and the service ticket had a note stating the emissions test had failed.

 

This car has less than 20k miles and the dealer failed to address a critical warranty issue with 2 weeks to state inspection sticker expiration.

 

Has anyone else experienced this?

Edited by darrelld
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is covered under warranty and they should have fixed it. What did they say about fixing it? ;)

 

Paul

 

They called and said it was a communications failure from the firmware updates to fix the recall. The SA said this normally clears after driving the car for around 50 miles and one of the techs was out doing that. I never was told that the inspection had never completed when they called to come pick up the car. I am hoping this is an oversight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They called and said it was a communications failure from the firmware updates to fix the recall. The SA said this normally clears after driving the car for around 50 miles and one of the techs was out doing that. I never was told that the inspection had never completed when they called to come pick up the car. I am hoping this is an oversight.

 

Seems to me that if they were aware of this update problem they should have done the state inspection first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

This is normal, not just for the C-Max, but for all cars. When you clear all codes in the computer, emissions tests will require a specific amount of miles/time driven before they will accept results as a pass. This is to prevent you from hiding a known emissions problem by clearing the codes just before taking the car in for its emissions test.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took my C-Max to the local Ford dealer to take care of the recall issues and get a State Inspection sticker. After 3 days the C-Max was returned without an inspection sticker and the service ticket had a note stating the emissions test had failed.

 

This car has less than 20k miles and the dealer failed to address a critical warranty issue with 2 weeks to state inspection sticker expiration.

 

Has anyone else experienced this?

On my last inspection (of an older Civic), I was surprised to find that here in CA, they don't actually test the tail pipe emissions - they only check the computer to ensure everything is working right. They had just cleared the computer codes because I didn't tighten the gas cap enough (Doh!), and I drove it about a hundred miles, then took it in for the test and it passed.

 

I'd drive yours on the highway for another 50 miles and then take it back in.

EDIT: Make sure it is highway miles, so that the ICE is running, to make sure the car accumulates enough data to provide a sample to the inspection station.

Edited by stevedebi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my last inspection (of an older Civic), I was surprised to find that here in CA, they don't actually test the tail pipe emissions - they only check the computer to ensure everything is working right. They had just cleared the computer codes because I didn't tighten the gas cap enough (Doh!), and I drove it about a hundred miles, then took it in for the test and it passed.

 

Depends on the age of the vehicle-- I had a 98 Saturn and they always did a tailpipe test (up to last year), but it looks like if your car is 2000 or newer, they hook up to the OBD-II only and use engine diagnostics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Experiencing a similar issue here. The dealer says there are four codes that won't clear. Our ODBC2 reader shows only one. They gave me the car to drive for a while, and I've been driving in a variety of traffic conditions, trying to run the ICE as much as possible. Put over 250 miles on the car and still the codes haven't cleared.

 

My service advisor told me this morning they're going to contact Ford and see if there's something else they can do. 

 

So I'm driving around with an expired inspection sticker. If Ford can't figure out anything today, I'm going to apply for a waiver so I won't have to pay a fine. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I'm driving around with an expired inspection sticker. If Ford can't figure out anything today, I'm going to apply for a waiver so I won't have to pay a fine. 

 

On a side note for Texans:  "The State of Texas will stop issuing inspection stickers and transition to a “Two Steps, One Sticker” vehicle inspection and registration program. Beginning March 1, 2015, vehicles will no longer be issued an inspection sticker. Your registration sticker will serve as a combined proof of registration and inspection."

 

http://txdmv.gov/motorists/register-your-vehicle/two-steps-one-sticker

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Experiencing a similar issue here. The dealer says there are four codes that won't clear. Our ODBC2 reader shows only one. They gave me the car to drive for a while, and I've been driving in a variety of traffic conditions, trying to run the ICE as much as possible. Put over 250 miles on the car and still the codes haven't cleared.

 

My service advisor told me this morning they're going to contact Ford and see if there's something else they can do. 

 

So I'm driving around with an expired inspection sticker. If Ford can't figure out anything today, I'm going to apply for a waiver so I won't have to pay a fine. 

 

Your S/A is an idiot. Driving the car won't clear DTC's.  You need to take it back to a competent dealer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Except some of the codes DID clear after driving. 

Yes, the P0000/P1000 will clear when the monitors run after about 50 miles of driving. If you don't have an IDS,

you won't know if the others have cleared because cheap code readers are not able to read all the systems.

Edited by drdiesel1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

JulieB, OBDII readers can read all codes that illuminate the check engine light and set the appropriate emissions readiness bits (emissions monitor information) to not ready.  So, it's not material that other non emission systems have faults and the OBDII reader can't read the codes that do not illuminate the check engine light. If the fault(s) that cause the CEL to illuminate are still present (apparently there is still one code after 250 miles of driving), the CEL will remain on,

 

What is the code that will not clear? Does your ODBii reader show the "readiness bits"?  If yes, what are the bits status?  Are you still under the 3/36 B2B Ford Warranty?  Also, the attachment shows the OBDII drive cycle. If you've driven 250 miles, you likely have completed the requirements of the drive cycle.  Even if you did not complete the drive cycle, the dealer should complete the drive cycle to see if the codes clear and fix the problem if you are still under warranty.  

Ford OBD Drive Cycle.pdf

Edited by Plus 3 Golfer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dr D. What code reader do you suggest.

 

Unfortunately, I can't recommend anything other than the Factory IDS for 100% coverage.

I have the IDS, the Snap-On Verus Pro and an Auto Enginuity as well as some others, but the only one guaranteed

to read 100% of the systems DTC's and data is the Ford IDS.

I know the AE should read 90% plus, but I've never compared them to know for sure. The Snap-On Verus won't and it's

a $10K tool. The problem with aftermarket scan tools is related to the need to try and cover all vehicles.

 

The IDS only covers Ford/Lincoln Mercury products. It's a guaranteed 100% coverage. The next one would be the AE.

They seem to have a lot more coverage than anyone else's tool and you can buy the generic scan tool and add the manufacturer

of choice to get the enhanced data information for the specific selection of brand(s)  It's probably the cheapest way for an owner

to cover the vehicle(s) they own without buying into a system for $10K that covers all vehicles up to about 80%.

 

 

People think the cheap code readers will read all PCM, DTC's, but that's 100% totally incorrect. They will

read misfire and emission DTC's because that's what's mandated by the US DOT. Everything else is proprietary

and only tool manufacturers that are willing to pay for the rights to access (snap-on, AE, ETC.) will read that

information. It's the same as DTC definitions. Notice you can't find much for those proprietary DTC's anywhere.

It's the same thing. You need to pay for it. All Data, Mitchell and Identifix all pay and have subscription based

data bases to access that information for repair shops to gain access to the factory information.

 

Other than that, it's not worth spending money on code readers unless you only want to read misfire and

emission based DTC's. Factory is always best. It's never cheap and that's another reason to leave it to

the professionals, unless you're a true DIY'er that's willing to spend at least $3K.

 

Don't forget all the control modules that aren't part of the PCM.

Here's a topical system diagram. Have fun reading DTC's and data from these control modules

with your $10 generic code reader.

 

Click on this image and have a look.

post-1464-0-15851200-1420776107_thumb.jpg

Edited by drdiesel1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

JulieB, OBDII readers can read all codes that illuminate the check engine light and set the appropriate emissions readiness bits (emissions monitor information) to not ready.  So, it's not material that other non emission systems have faults and the OBDII reader can't read the codes that do not illuminate the check engine light. If the fault(s) that cause the CEL to illuminate are still present (apparently there is still one code after 250 miles of driving), the CEL will remain on,

 

What is the code that will not clear? Does your ODBii reader show the "readiness bits"?  If yes, what are the bits status?  Are you still under the 3/36 B2B Ford Warranty?  Also, the attachment shows the OBDII drive cycle. If you've driven 250 miles, you likely have completed the requirements of the drive cycle.  Even if you did not complete the drive cycle, the dealer should complete the drive cycle to see if the codes clear and fix the problem if you are still under warranty.  

Unfortunately this is incorrect information.  It's completely false and you shouldn't

make such erroneous and misleading statements making others think it's possible.

 

I can assure you and everyone else, it's NOT POSSIBLE with cheap code readers.

Edited by drdiesel1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a little test for the code readers. What are these DTC's related to ?

Can you find any info on these. I know they can't read them, but, I just thought

I would see how much info anyone can find without paying for it.

 

These are Ford C-Max proprietary DTC's.

 

Click to view:

post-1464-0-27678100-1420777256_thumb.jpg

Edited by drdiesel1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a little test for the code readers. What are these DTC's related to ?

Can you find any info on these. I know they can't read them, but, I just thought

I would see how much info anyone can find without paying for it.

 

These are Ford C-Max proprietary DTC's.

 

Click to view:

attachicon.gifUntitled-2.jpg

 

From OBDSM1402_HEV.PDF

 

P0DC2 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "F" Stuck Off.

P0DC5 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "G" Stuck On.

P0DC6 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "G" Stuck Off

P0DC9 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "H" Stuck On

P0DCA - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "H" Stuck Off

P0DCD - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "I" Stuck On.

P0DCE. Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "I" Stuck Off

P0DD1 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "J" Stuck On

 

Sorry, couldn't resist  :clapping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From OBDSM1402_HEV.PDF

 

P0DC2 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "F" Stuck Off.

P0DC5 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "G" Stuck On.

P0DC6 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "G" Stuck Off

P0DC9 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "H" Stuck On

P0DCA - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "H" Stuck Off

P0DCD - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "I" Stuck On.

P0DCE. Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "I" Stuck Off

P0DD1 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "J" Stuck On

 

Sorry, couldn't resist  :clapping:

That's pretty good..........Can you elaborate on where you were able to get that info ?

Do you have a Ford manual  or some other data base info ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...