fbov

I'm sorry to hear you're fighting the battle you can't win. It sound like you're doing everything you can, and while it won't seem like it, that's the best you can do. She knows you are doing what you can, even if some things don't work out. Be kind to yourself, too. We inherited the C-Max when my Father-in-law passed away, and I still thank him for the bequest. It changed my personality. Give it a chance. I'd be encouraged the dealer used it regularly; no car likes to sit. My lifetime was about 42.6 MPG, but I also took advantage of maximum tire pressures, which you want to avoid at this time. Yesterday, I responded to all your specific issues, but given the Forester works, added expenses are unwarranted. Softer tires are not the kind of solution you need. Hang in there, Frank

If there is, I've not seen it. Nor have I seen a user guide for other forums, even when they change forum creation software. I think we all hack them. Start with the pull-down in upper right corner.

Part of me is jealous, the part that misses my little grape.

Looking at my oil data, 2 years or 10K car miles is not an issue (last change). The 2020 Escape Hybrid goes by engine miles. I had 2% oil life remaining at 15, 627 car miles on the oil. Tank data shows 5940 EV miles over 15,848 car miles since the last change, or 9,908 ICE miles on the oil. This oil is out for analysis now. It's the second change, but I did not sample the waste oil at 5K. I suspect 10K ICE miles is not a problem. Paul's gone longer.

Welcome! You're arriving just as we get control of a spam problem; good timing! (And bear with us.) I, for one, will be interested in what you get for mileage, as both cars had the same 47 MPG rating when launched as a 2013 model (what I had). Famously, Ford used Fusion metrics to calculate C-Max's 47, and then admitted a mistake across the board. We got two checks for the "added" fuel cost. No one complained about the Fusion's mileage. Enjoy! Frank

Yes, they can. What year is your car? It could be something else.

I'm seeing 43.5 tank MPG in the last 12 months, which forgives a 2000 mile break-in period. 48.1 MPG is my best multi-tank average, at an average speed of 41.1 MPH. Since retiring, the C-Max gave me 40.9 MPG, but I'm now driving long, hybrid-friendly routes the C-Max never saw. C-max saw multiple 50+ tanks in summer, averaging 49.2 in 2014 and 51.3 MPG in 2015, but at 26.9 in 2014 and 27.1 MPH in 2015. So, my best tank mileage is worse in the Escape, but my average speed for those tanks is over 1/3 higher than for the C-Max. Now, as you may have noted, I've quoted "tank mileage" above, not "display mileage" as the latter is off by ~5% in both C-Max and Escape. If you'll forgive my use of the latter, I can give you a better idea that the Escape can do. This chart shows the trip display mileage for each of segment of 3-segment round trips. Each segment features a different driving speed, and only the 55 mph data contains a cold start. 55- and 65-mph legs are 50-100 miles, the 35-mph leg is 11.3 miles, and I have it memorized. Note that the data is segregated, Summer and Winter, so you also see the effect of temperature and weather. This kind of data compares very well with the best I ever got out of the C-Max.

I stand corrected!

There are two things going on. Cold start mode For emission reasons, the ICE runs at low RPM producing little power for ~20-30 sec after ICE first starts. This is sometimes engaged after long downhill runs with ICE off. This is a very different, but short-lived, warm-up mode. Hybrid mode Once cold start's over, the car balances EV and ICE output, based on HVB charge and your throttle foot. I wonder if you're describing normal hybrid-mode operation. As I recall, there are four hybrid modes. Add in the effect of HVB SOC to change the ICE/EV balance and it covers pretty much everything. - ICE only - EV only - EV + ICE - EV - ICE (negative split mode) This last one is a unique case of high MPG with ICE running - negative split mode. It only occurs when HVB SOC is very high, and your throttle foot very light. The "charging" motor acts to slow the ICE RPM, so fuel use falls as mileage soars, but the ICE keeps running. Not common, but neat when it happens. As to which accelerates faster, EV or ICE, it's a bit of a red herring. In a power-split based hybrid, ICE speed is mostly constant. It operates as a "stationary engine" running any RPM required to generate the requested power. When I start from stop, the engine speed levels off as the car begins to roll, and stays constant until I back off at cruising speed. To anyone accustomed to shifting a manual, constant engine speed is a big change.

I was wrong here.

The OEM Energy Savers are very poor in snow especially late in life. Why I ran snows on steel wheels. It sounds like you met RSC, "roll stability control." Look up "stability" in your owner's manual to learn more.

Me, too, years ago, when I'd been experimenting with car mods to lower drag. I added an air dam and side skirts. The air dam was more of a chin spoiler, at the rear of the front under panel, front of the oil change access panel, swept back to meet the wheel wells where 2014's got a little "bump" of an aero add-on. I hit a pothole I knew well, as it was at the entrance to the parking lot at work. It was at the bottom of a speed bump, and I hit it just right to tear one side off. Used metal fatigue to break off the torn part so I could go to work. You would need off-road ground clearance if you expect to clear the plow wall. Escape has much more ground clearance, even more in Bronco Sport, partly due to oversize tires. It's a new platform, but there will be tons of options, especially if Bronco Sport stuff fits Escape.

Turning circles are comparably bad, like all FWD. A foot of snow overnight should keep you home, more so after the plow dumps another foot at the bottom of the driveway. I will admit to driving through the plow wall once... the lower grill really grabbed snow and there was no radar until it melted. I should note that my only C-Max issues involved wet ice and snalt, not driving on plowed roads, even in a snow storm. Visibility has always been my limiting factor in snow squalls, and the C-Max is among the best.

This Escape is my first AWD. Without snows, the Escape's forward traction is better that my C-Max with snows. Turning and braking are another story, of course, but a Subaru on snows would run rings around it. That said, the C-Max never left me hanging, it was lacking in the very worst snow. Set expectations accordingly.

Those are great choices! I must admit I 'd be driving a 2018 C-Max if I'd been quicker...

Welcome! I think you'll find both are excellent choices. Hybrid technology advanced from C-Max to Escape, so you'll see a big upgrade from the HD-10 in your 2006. To my biased perspective, water cooling is a game changer, especially for a plug-in, and it's only on the new Escape. I'm glad I waited. The one big issue with plug-ins is reducing time the battery spends fully charged, and at high temperature. Think a garage in Arizona. Both factors accelerate battery aging, and there are a number of Energi models with low HVB capacity. They're still great hybrids, and the Hybrid is not affected, as its rarely fully charged. Another reason to like water cooling... and good HVBs. Early Escape plug-ins had battery quality issues, delaying them a year. HAve fun, Frank

Yep, add that to the list.

Happy with mine to date, a January 8, 2020 build. There are some issue to be aware of. The only serious one is a few cars with 12v issues not unlike the early C-Max SE vs SEL issues. It looks like a parasitic load that isn't switching off, so it drains the 12v battery charge level below minimum HVB boot requirements. Mine's been fine. Early cars got a PCM update for a "stop safely now" issue. There was a batch of bad rearview cameras, and a lot of cars have a subwoofer that rattles (I fixed mine, dealers can be clueless). Some bad seats, too (wiring issue). I'm sad that 2021's lose some nice things, like acoustic glass, side mirror turn signals, and 110v outlets, but gain factory-installed tow hitch and more upscale options on lower trim levels. I'm hoping reports of reduced dash content are untrue. You'll miss the HVB level gauge. Now, I traded a C-Max of 10/2012 vintage, so your car's already quite different (SYNC3), and it has a good transmission. My car's value was dropping in expectation that my tranny would blow, so I expect yours will hold its value a lot better. Remember, the Escape is a larger, heavier car with brick-like drag, but a wonderfully efficient 2.5L ICE and a fast-charging water-cooled HVB that has me doing about the same mileage as the C-Max. 700 mile tanks are common with the slightly larger tank.

Do a search looking for posts by Plus 3 Golfer. He had the best technical stuff, but left due to recent spam. Frank

Honestly, now that I have AWD, snows are coming in second. That or Ford's picked a great OEM tire! Cornering and braking are no match for a snow tire, but it's stable at speed and makes it up hills very well. Plowing height is about 8".

And yes, you will get an oil change message at 10K or 12 months, whichever comes first. I see no reason for the annual change, unless you drive so little that you'd go several years. In that case, I'd test to be sure your oil is still working. As long as the pH buffer is working (TBN>~1), you're likely fine. Note that the new Escape Hybrid does oil changes by ICE miles. At 10K miles on the oil, it said I had 40% left... exactly my %EV over that period. I'm at ~15K miles now, and the car says I have 800 miles left before it's due. This is consistent with my last C-Max oil change, which went 2 years and still hadn't made 10K. Bov Oil Data 191105.pdf

On very long downgrades, using Hill Assist (shifter button), I found the HVB filled up, then regen braking backed off presumably because there was no place to put it. The indicator would fill the tip of the battery icon. Then, friction braking to the bottom. I did spend the vast majority of my time with HVB in the 30-60% range... it's the nature of the application as an energy buffer for engine, terrain and traffic. Frank

In fairness to your dealer, Ford does specify a 12 month oil change interval, in addition to the 10K mile alarm. In a hybrid, neither has a place. I did oil analysis throughout C-Max ownership. The data's attached. One change is early, at 12 months, and the last is extended to 2 years. There is a pattern of low and high water in the oil, with associated flash point depression. It is purely dependent on recent driving; after 100 miles at highway speeds, there's very little water in the oil. That's not true after a large number of short, low-speed trips where the ICE never gets hot. Ford has changed their tune. My new Escape will get ~15K miles on this oil change, because the Escape algorithm uses ICE on-time. Bov Oil Data 191105.pdf

Take a look at Tire Rack's test reports. I looked at their cheapest 225/50-17s, and find the Kumho Ecsta PS31 rated as: "Noise quality was good as well, with ...no significant tread noise." The Riken Raptor is the cheapest option, but rated as "... just a touch louder" in the same test. Hard to find noise comparison data. Easier to find cheap tire reviews.

With 12v batteries, it's time, not mileage. Hotter climates kill lead-acid batteries sooner. I live near Lake Ontario, and my 10/2012-built C-Max made it to trade-in last January with no odd problems beyond the radio/fuse thing. Conversely, the procedures for BDCM reset are on the forum, so it's an easy replacement.