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My data is here. https://avt.inl.gov/ specifically https://avt.inl.gov/vehicle-button/2013-ford-c-max-energi You can also find C-Max Hybrid data, where 3 of 4 trannys failed. Energi saw none.

Actually, Energi didn't have the transmission issue. Because EV mode lets you drive a "long" time, Energi has an electric oil pump. Hybrid relies on periodic engine burns for lubrication, and that's believed related to bearing failures. That's why they can ask $10K.

No, I think you lose rear leg room... early Escape documentation said the hybrid would lose leg room to the battery, but given the HVB is under the seats, I think it's the plug-in that sacrifices.

Given you can't get an AWD Hybrid, I doubt you'll see plug-in or bed extension. This is a bit of a niche product, under Range, above EcoSport, but with options for those wanting lots of capability.

Most of the good stuff's covered. To build on @cr08, if there are a specific options you want, consult the "order guides" Ford issues every year. Here's a link to one year, Blue Oval forum may have others.

Sway bar links sound like that, too...

It serves to remind me how much I liked the C-Max redesign we didn't get in the States...

Representing the other side of brake corrosion, I also had a regen score north of 95%, and I got 55K on the front rotors before they dissolved. Back brakes only made 50K due to a stuck piston taking out the rotor, happened again at 55K when it finally got fixed. But then, we get 8' of snow a year, falling at about an inch a day. Lots of salt....

The plug in my C-Max was only good for 100W. It might charge your phone, but it can't start a refrigerator or run baseboard heaters. I've seen threads discussing more extreme measures, none of which I felt were advisable. Generators are cheap; my 4KVA runs the whole house, save 3-phase appliances.

Lead-acid battery cells have vents. I bet that one's diluted. Surprised the car hasn't thrown a code!!

Reset the lift gate. It has a "feature" that limits how far it opens. It should just stop, not reverse, so perhaps its confused. Open it fully and press-and-hold the liftgate button until you hear a chime. I hope that does it because otherwise, it looks like a weak strut.

First of all, welcome and glad you're happy with the car. It does take some learning; I seriously doubt your high voltage battery (HVB) is weak; only Energi's kill the battery (see below). Nothing you say sounds off. It is very hard to drive it without using the internal combustion engine (ICE), but remember, all electrical energy comes from gasoline in a Hybrid. The ICE must run some of the time, especially below freezing. Most of us use a different view: "Empower: Power (with engine on/off threshold) + Avg Fuel Economy + Battery Gauge + Fuel Gauge" is how my 2013 manual describes it. The key is the ICE on/off threshold as this allows you to see what EV you really have available before ICE kicks in. Learning to stay in EV from a stop is called "chasing blue" because it takes a gentle foot to follow the rise in the blue outline. From a light, chasing blue to 15 MPH is doing very well. And I would turn EV+ on and leave it on. EV+ gives you full EV power from a depleted HVB when you're close to places you park. It insure the HVB charge is low when you park, and that's highly desirable. The two threats to Li-ion battery life are heat and overcharging. You can't control ambient temperature so Ford gave you a way to be sure you always park with low charge. Energi (plug-in variant) HVB get weak if you keep them fully charged. Charging in the Arizona sun just makes things worse. So, stop thinking the C-Max Hybrid is an electric car. It's a gas car that gets a lot more miles out of each gallon because of the battery and motors. If you want more info, just ask. I'm holding back for fear of swamping you. Frank

Speaking as owner of a 2020 Escape who traded a 2013 C-Max, the decision depends if Escape is AWD. If they're both FWD, I'd strongly recommend the C-Max. It's a slightly bigger Yaris. I traded due to a transmission issue before August 2015, which you can ignore safely in a 2017. In fact, I just missed buying a new one at the end of C-Max production. In comparison, I see a lot of traffic on Escape forums regarding major issues with some Escape engine options and I don't know the model history well enough to tell you what to dodge. Regarding snow, it depends exactly where you live. We get over twice the snowfall of Toronto, and the C-Max on snow tires was a ball to drive. It will go anywhere your Yaris would. If it's snowing enough for ground clearance to matter, you ought to stay home. But this is where AWD matters. (Note that the OE Michelin Energy Savers on the C-Max are not acceptable in snow. They are a 3-season, clear-road tire.) Space is a wash. The Escape isn't much bigger inside, but you do have greater lift-over height for everything you put in the Escape, including yourself. Not an issue for someone who's a stocky 5'10" with no little kids. Best of luck in your choice!

Well... yes! Mileage follows temperature very well!! (I retired in 2016.)

And, if it tests out bad, DON'T FEEL BAD about replacing the 12v battery at 5 yrs. That's good life in Houston.

... parking brake turn.

This point has caught many of us.... Another thing to consider is engine usage. Depending on your driving style, roads and terrain, you may have as much as 50% EV, meaning the engine is on only half the time, and EV is on half the time. The new car has added that to the oil monitor; 40$ EV got me to 15.7K miles for a 10K true oil mileage. I see no need to follow maintenance schedules of a non-hybrid, in the areas where hybrids differ. It does reduce tire rotation, if you do it at oil changes, but that's about it.

Welcome! Why? I assume you're not getting the kind of range you expect. That's common in plug-ins that were kept fully charged. The most straightforward solution would be to pass on the charging station and drive it like a hybrid. Hybrid operation uses a charge level of 50% +/- 25%, so the HVB doesn't age like it does in a plug-in. The HVB in a hybrid isn't a primary power source, but rather an energy buffer, allowing you to store and retrieve energy that would otherwise be wasted. You'll find that, unlike the Prius, all C-Max have an EV system capable of primary power (88Kw), so the driving experience is far more interesting. And lest you feel you're losing something in short plug-in EV range, you also gain an oil pump that's believed responsible for the higher reliability of early Energi transmission. Here's a link to some data. Maintenance is nearly all oil and tires to 150K miles on 3 of 4 vehicles tested, with no tranys replaced. The C-Max Hybrid test to 160K miles replaced 3 of 4 transmissions at ~100K. In this respect, getting a 2014 Energi means you've lucked out!! HAve fun, Frank, a former 2013 Hybrid owner

Welcome to the forum, but all I can say is Wow! Your problem makes no sense... unless you have a networked car. Somehow, you changed a signal on the net that does a lot more than seems logical. I'm with @jzchen, try putting the old one back. Why are you changing? Are you swapping identical assy., or looking for an upgrade? I may not be able to help, but perhaps more info will allow someone else to help you.

I suggest starting with Paul Jones' YouTube videos. Paul covers both driver actions and car modifications that he's found beneficial. For my part, I see the car as an energy bank. You withdraw energy by burning fuel, turning that energy into motion. You can reclaim that kinetic energy by climbing a hill (potential energy), or charging the battery (electrical energy), and use it again to move the car. I've thrown some numbers in to give you a sense of scale. Nothing has the energy density of gasoline, and it's low 30% efficiency is where we have the most to gain. The trick is running the engine so it's very efficient (low RPM, high load) and managing the losses: rolling resistance, aerodynamic drag and friction braking. As with everything else in life, timing matters, and in this case, timing means "following the terrain." - try to use the engine going up hills, when you need power to maintain speed - try to use EV going downhill, which needs less power, and possibly braking, to maintain speed. There is one driving technique that will help a lot: learning to drop into EV. The engine will stay on if you keep your foot on the gas. You have to lift your right foot for a moment to get into EV. It takes practice, but it's how you force the car into EV. I see @homestead replied, likely with a link to Paul's videos. Have fun, Frank

One of my favorite aspects of the new Escape hybrid is ground clearance, despite the drag penalty.

We've seen 12v battery life follow the classic pattern vis a vie climate. My 2013 still had the original battery at trade-in last year, while folks in Arizona (where the AVTA life test occurred) only get 2 years. AVTA tested 4 2013 C-Max. By March, 2015, all had new batteries, at 50-60Kmiles into a 160K mile test. @J-Max car spent most of its time in Wisconsin, so likely original. And for those with problems, it's useful to look at service needs of other hybrids. These early Fords were nearly bulletproof... nearly, given the tranny issue. Frank

HVB - high voltage battery, the "big" one, even bigger in your Energi. Highly unlikely to come loose. The 12v is in under the rear cargo floor. I had a sway bar link fail, so I know they do!

If it's the death knell of spam, thank you, Thank You THANK YOU!

Welcome, @Shacky Please tell us more, like your car's year and model, mileage, history, etc. I assume you've checked under the cargo floor to make sure nothing's loose. Sway bar links break but I've never heard of an HVB coming loose. My first inclination is to try another garage; get a second opinion. Given how easy it is to access the 12v battery, if they couldn't find it, they're not the brightest bulb in pack. Again welcome! Frank