fbov

You have my sympathy. At this mileage, you're out of warranty. I think the best you can get is a used tranny (this is a known issue, with an effective fix) from a 2015 or later. Keep the thread active so perhaps someone else chimes in with more/better info. Frank

Blue Oval is semi-dormant, but when they do post, it's useful. Fordescape is much busier... https://www.fordescape.org/

Just need to delete the #$%& accounts...

That's a nice sweet spot for age and miles. I hope you enjoy it for many years! Frank

Ask the dealer to explain how a 4 year old car is not covered by the 8-year, 100K miles hybrid warranty. Or have they only warranted the repair for 90 days?

True, but I don't see much happen in 1/2 hour. Bigger engine, colder climate. I am finding the scheduling feature of my internet switch helpful.

Henry, Did the radio "turn off" or did the sound change (tinny), and then stay "on" when you turn off the car? I had the latter several times, only let the 12v die once, though. The fix for my car was to pull the radio fuse. The radio then returned to normal operation. Lots of us had this, is this what you're seeing? Frank

5 days from my Escape's first anniversary, 16K miles, and aside from several minor recalls (rearview camera, A-pillar trim, PCM update), the car's been perfect. Some owners have had severe problems (stop safely now) which (I think) were addressed by the PCM update. I never saw them. No SYNC issues, and my NAV update installed flawlessly. My only complaints revolve around the block heater. The factory installed the heater, but failed to install the harness. Dealer got it right on their third try, after I pointed out to my service writer how block heaters on their diesels were installed. It now sticks out of the bottom grill. I'm controlling it with a networked switch, and finally realized I should use the scheduling feature - Ford recommends a 3 hr. run - so it runs long enough. My memory always reminds me too late; no point in a 30 min. run. Of course, the C-Max performance was similar... the bomb had a 100K mile fuse. Stay well, Frank

Sad to see, but glad you're here to tell us about it! I'm amazed the lower engine cover it still in place! Have fun car shopping; with today's trade-in values, it's totaled.

Now I understand my ophthalmologist's insistence on blinding me. What changed? I ask as an amateur astronomer who's night vision is very important!

That's the TARDIS effect. Welcome to the fold; glad you're having fun!

On paper, that's true. But at 10K miles today, it's unlikely they'll see a failure in the next 1.5 years unless they drive an awful lot. SYNC difference might matter, too. The bigger question remains how the 2014 spent the 6 years prior to its 2020 registration with a second owner, per Carfax. Like your car, @plus 3 golfer, the 2017's mileage indicates its been used and maintained continuously, so the long term reliability outlook is very good. I had no doubts my 2013 would have remained reliable beyond the 66K miles at trade-in. This 2014 has some explaining to do. Frank

Ironically, the 2017 despite the miles. Early C-Max had a transmission problem that wasn't fixed, for sure, until 2015. Later years, and cars with replacement transmissions, have been very reliable. That said, transmission issues usually took 100K miles to show. The 2014 may have 90K miles to go before failure. If your mileage is low, you may have many years. Now, 10K miles over 6 years needs a bit of an explanation. Hybrids don't like to sit. What's the 2014's story?

Yes, the one in the cargo area.

I can make a good argument that hybrid engine air filters are good for extended change interval. - paper filter particulate efficiency increases with age, so it's at its worst when new. "... (an) air filter that has been in service for a period of time works even better than a new one." - hybrid engines only run part of the time, so in terms of air flow, filter service age is the odo reading minus your EV miles. - hybrid engine speed is independent of road speed, so there's no benefit to high engine RPM when accelerating: maximum air flow no longer matters. Floor it and the engine RPM rises to the torque peak and no faster (or you'd slow down). Higher filter back pressure has no effect, within emissions control system range. I did used oil testing. My Si level, indicative of sand, dropped by a factor of 2 over the rated life of the air filter. Mileage didn't change. I think these are good things. Frank

Did we scare you off? Sorry. Bunch of tech-types here, and we're the better for it, but it's voluntary. No need for a degree to drive the car, but if you're interested, there are more ways to play with a C-Max, than with a conventional car. If you're interested.... Now, the plug-in Energi model does have some issues, but they're confined to the plug-in.

+1 And to see if you're coasting, you look at the "up" (?) and down (?) "carat" above and below the HVB status display. Those gifs are a poor carats. You're only coasting when neither carat is visible. It means you're not charging, nor are you discharging. The new Escape has a numeric display, so coasting = 0. Frank

I was wrong; my snows are 215/60-16. OEM diameter. Sorry. I see what you're looking for, and Focus parts are a good way to go. Tall and narrow should give you the most clearance latitude. I found no loss in MPG with Michelin snow tire, but there are some that roll hard.

Why? What are you trying to achieve? Make the right choices and you'll have another 20 mpg car! Tell us more!

... because you were regen braking. I bet it's a change in throttle calibration. Conventional drivetrains have some retarding force applied with no throttle, engine braking in a manual. Ford put a little retarding force at no throttle. Apparently the anmount has varies over years and model lines. My 2013 C-Max had very little no-throttle braking, requiring light foot pressure to get to zero-bar output (true coasting as if in neutral). In the new Escape, no-throttle braking varies across driving modes, greatest in ECO mode. It sounds like the Fusion was closer to the 2020's ECO mode than NORMAL mode in thie respect. Frank

Hybrid's doing fine, nearing 10K and just a few minor issues, like the backup camera. The plug-in's a different story.

https://www.fordescape.org/ More active than here, active moderators https://blueovalforums.com/forums/ less active, but early factory information.

Where do you live? We just replaced the 12v in my daughter's 2012 Subaru last weekend. It looked original. She lives in Vermont. At 7 years, you and she did well.

Yes, there are real differences, but the thing is, if you run it like a hybrid, you still have many years of driving ahead without noticeable degradation. Regardless the battery partitioning, hybrid operation uses the middle of the charging range. Reduced upper or lower battery limits have less effect than in "fill-then-empty" charge/run modes commonly used with plug-ins. You just miss out on all those "free" EV miles, or you live with the reduction. Frank

I had 1 front and 2 rear brake services in 66K miles. - rears only lasted 50K miles before problems in RR caused rotor warp. Ford's repair only lasted 5K miles, so... - At 55K, rears were fixed by an independent shop, and the fronts replaced due to rotor rust. Now, I live in an area that gets 8' of snow each winter, at about 1"/day. We have had years with 90 straight days of snow. They use salt "frequently" and with high regen scores, the brakes never get hot enough to dry off. That explains the fronts. The rear brakes had a problem Ford missed. Rear rotor warp is also the root cause of the "failed brakes" sensation when slowing. As the car switches to friction brakes at low speed, the ABS system assumes proper operation, which does not require any pad motion, just pressure. Rotor warping pushes pads back, so brake force is delayed by a short time while the piston moves the pad. There's very little pulsation from the rotor, just some grinding noise. And there's never any concern for actual brake failure! Frank