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Just make sure you stay within the 1875 watt rating. It's OK to get a little warm, melt snow around it, etc. Hot spots are usually plugs because contacts have a slight resistance than plain wire lacks.

I bet you're checking coolant level when the car is cold. Try checking it when the car is warm and on a level surface. Your leak could be from overfilling.

Yep; jump the car and you should be able to open the lift gate using the other car's 12v.

I agree. Reviewers should learn the car. "Simply put, the Escape Plug-In Hybrid does not reliably operate as an EV when put in EV mode." Folks like Paul Jones have not reported these issues. They have learned to operate the car. Would the reviewer had... but he's also got an obvious Toyota bias.

Because they're asking more than I was offered in trade in 2019, when my 2013 had 60K miles. Granted, trade-in value is not the same as private sale price, but that was also 2.5 years ago. I think you can do better.

So you're sticking with the C-Max for the foreseeable future? You've listed random annoyances found in random cars; Ford won't fix this crap-shoot. My harmonic balancer is fine (there's no clutch, as you know) and nothing flaps. The subwoofer rattled, but it was an easy fix. Jan. 2020 build, so mine has an engine cover, too!

Yeah... there's a 2015 build date for the fix. You've got the right expectations, I think.

Try the Escape forum. Users are reporting a lot of deliveries.

I have a 2020 Escape Hybrid, which I see as the successor to the C-Max. I can't speak to the first two generations of Escape Hybrid. Your linking a 2012 tells me price might be very important. I tried to trade in my 2013 for one of the last production C-Max. 18 months later, I got the Escape. In that time, the car lost 30% of its trade in value at 66K miles. It's likely that any 2013-2015 C-Max that looks like a great deal has probably not had the transmission replaced. I have had nothing but good experience with my two Ford hybrids. I hope you can find one does the same for you.

It is an accurate statement when you don't have an EV Now mode. It's an Energi feature. You can't check the hybrid battery, but you don't need to. It's not subject to an abusive charging mode; Li-ion HVB's don't like it when you keep the "tank" full. - Hybrid battery is a buffer, so it spends most of it's time in the 50% +/-20% charge range. - It's only fully charged at the bottom of looong hills, which tend to be mid-trip, so short dwell time. - we have had many forum members drive into the 250K mile range with no loss of mileage, or issues with their rebuilt transmissions. The concern is the transmission, not the Hybrid HVB. It's why I drive an Escape Hybrid these days. Ironically, Energi didn't show the transmission issue, due to an additional oil pump IIRC. BTW, there's a trove of reliability data on C-Max at: ... Well it's gone. Idaho National Labs web site had data on 4 Energi and 4 Hybrid 2013 C-Max. The goal was 160K miles in hard service. 3 of 4 Hybrid's lost trannies, but they were bulletproof otherwise. No Energi lost trannies. It's a great car!

The care is fine in the cold, but the Li-ion battery has its limits - no charging below 32F and greatly reduced output below 0F. That sounds bad given the HVB is also the starter battery, but even with reduced output, it's still a lot more battery than any 12v lead-acid. I never no starting issues below 0F.

That's OEM size, which is not found at the link. 225/45 or 225/55. If you're interested, it's easy to measure rolling resistance. All you need is a long level, some shims, and a flat-to-sloping surface. - park the car on the flat and roll it forward manually until it just barely stays put - Lay the level on the ground, and shim the low end until it's exactly level - measure the length of the level and the thickness of the shim pack. Rolling resistance is shim thickness/level length If you have a 1 meter level, expect the shim pack to be 5-15 mm. RR is usually in the 0.005-0.015 range.

What size did you install? They don't show the OEM size.

Just remember to take them off when you reach pavement. Chains are temporary a traction device. If you treat snow tires like chains, be sure to put them back on the rear when you're done. It's very rare that you want the most traction in the front. Braking becomes unstable, and folks frequently hit things when they spin. You don't want to screw up braking balance by "putting the feathers at the wrong end of the arrow."

Welcome from across the Lake! Since you ask... If you only have 2 snow tires, they go on the rear. Seriously, you need stability under braking more than anything. Get 4 of the same. Next is to get dedicated wheels, so putting on snows is just tire rotation. Honestly, I'd offer my old snows, except it sounds like you're already involved in a purchase. (The Escape specs a larger tire.) Then just drive like you know it's snowing. The only thing that slowed the C-Max on Michelin X-Ice was deep snalt* and damp ice, but I didn't go off-roading. I'd suggest tires but I understand you may have made that decision already. I've become a fan of "all-weather" tires with 3PMSF designation that last in warm weather. The Escape Hybrid will not get snows. *snalt is that mixture of snow and salt held at slush-point temperature which slides under all conditions; very hard to walk in.

Two things. These are very different tires, with polar opposite snow performance. You don't say where you live, but you've been warned. The CrossClimate2 tires in the UK test had different tread depth and tread features than the ones I bought. Tire Rack has a review of the US tire, and it's not as complementary as the UK review. That said, since 2017 I've bought 6 sets of CrossClimate+ and CrossClimate2, and no one's been unhappy.

My C-Max came with Michelin Energy Savers, not Defender or Energy, and they remain a good 3-season LRR tire. Worthless in snow and cold. Here's a recent test of all-season tires that included rolling resistance data, a rare thing done right. The only caveat is that it's a UK test, and some tires may not be the same on both sides of the pond. (And he does some really nice comparisons in other tests.) https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm I also look at tires based on total vehicle cost. If a set of $800 tires lasts 40K miles, you paid $0.02/mile. My recent fuel cost is $0.072, so I see tires as "cheap" given how much a drop in MPG would cost. For reference, my Escape Hybrid's about to kill its OE tires (Bridgestone Ecopia 442 HL) and I've already purchased Michelin CrossClimate2 to replace them. Not the lowest RR in the test, but still very good. I'd recommend the Ecopia as well, except these OE tires worked a lot better than any review has led me to expect, so Ford may have a unique rubber compound; they won't make 35K but stick like crazy, even in snow.

My understanding is the chassis is common with the Focus, which has a lot of aftermarket options. The only issue is that parts become NLA a few years after the car stops production. Don't wait. And it sounds like you want "progressive rate" springs, soft over small bumps, hard over large bumps. Look for large changes in the coil angle.

I wonder if you've found "drive-in movie" mode? Does the radio stay on if the door's ajar?

This isn't your great-grandfather's CVT, it's your father's. The one patented in 1972, not the 1880's. No unusual stresses on the fluid. Ford's recommendation is fine.

Still have the original transmission? If so, it's totaled, and you'll likely be disappointed in the amount you receive. When I traded my 2013 in, it was losing value rapidly. (My trade-in was worth $7K in July 2018, $5K in January 2020.) If you liked the C-Max, get an Escape Hybrid. Much the same, except what's better. If you have your heart set on the Maverick Hybrid, get used to walking. As @JAZnoted, Maverick has a long wait list and hasn't started delivery yet. Hybrid deliveries may trail the turbo.

Sorry, I had a 2013... and now get updates free again.

Yes, it's important by itself, but there's a strong interaction with charge level at storage temperatures that aren't very hot. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries "Lithium-ion suffers from stress when exposed to heat, so does keeping a cell at a high charge voltage. A battery dwelling above 30°C (86°F) is considered elevated temperature and for most Li-ion a voltage above 4.10V/cell is deemed as high voltage. Exposing the battery to high temperature and dwelling in a full state-of-charge for an extended time can be more stressful than cycling." Figure 8 demonstrates my understanding of the opportunity to undercharge for extended longevity. https://batteryuniversity.com/img/content/capacity-retention3.jpg That said, Ford knows all this stuff, too. I assume it's comprehended in their charging protocols. All you'd be doing is "leaning in the right direction" akin to some of your aerodynamic modifications.

No, I think they find cheaper options on places like eBay.

Isn't this the kind of usage pattern that led to loss of range in C-Max Energi? Can you control how fully the HVB recharges? If you routinely have 5+ miles left when you re-charge, could there be longevity advantages to limiting "full charge" to 90% most of the time?