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I had a 10/2012 build C-Max with 67K miles and traded it in on the new Escape Hybrid. Partly because I could afford to, partly because of the tranny. My understanding is that Ford is no longer providing full coverage for a new tranny. Paul blew his early, and got a new replacement unit that's served him very well. Faced with a huge number of bad units, Ford decided the failure is a bearing that's not hybrid unique, so your warranty no longer applies. A lot of folks have gone with salvage parts and a private garage. I got a CLUNK one day shifting into reverse, so I had a reason, too... and I'd found the car was losing value at about $100/month. That said, your decision should start by thinking about your transportation needs, finances, annual mileage and what you're willing to repair. With no noises, you might get another 40K miles, especially with a lower-speed usage pattern. If that's several years, it may make sense to keep it with the understanding you'll probably have little value left if it gets noisy. Another option is a newer model year, after Aug, 2015 as I recall. I tried to get one of the last new-build C-Max's in 2018. They are great cars, very reliable, versatile and fun to drive. They fit a ton of stuff, and with electric AC, make a perfect mobile office. We've had lots of owners report high mileage cars with very few problems. Even so, I bailed. The Escape is a very nice car.... Stay well, Frank

Life gets in the way.

If you're not familiar with the Advanced Vehicle Test facility... https://avt.inl.gov/vehicle-button/2013-ford-c-max This site has tons of data on hybrids and EVs through 2014, when Congress changed hands and funding was cut and testing was dropped mid-test. Thankfully, this was part of T=0 work. Fuel Economy at Steady-State Speed, 0% Grade 15 mph 84.8 mpg 30 mph 80.1 mpg 45 mph 68.9 mpg 60 mph 50.3 mpg 75 mph 39.0 mpg Now... I never got near these numbers; low 30's at best when driving on Eco cruise control, well below 75 mph. But it gives you an idea what's achievable. Stay well, Frank

+1 for all the reasons listed, plus this. 2016s come with Sync 3, which some reviewers felt was a game changer. MFT worked fine for me, but I'm an old fart. Stay well, Frank

You assume the ICE starts right away for emissions reasons. My observations disagree. I've long been able to tool around the parking lot, and on cold start, at least to the mailbox (live in suburbs). Look for a reason the engine's starting. My money's on heat setting. Try turning environmental controls off and see if the ICE stays off. Not sure what else to lok for... Stay well, Frank

Bring a CO detector. If you run AC you're running the ICE. And I hope you're shorter than I, it felt a bit cramped to me. Great headroom, though. Frank

Check your tire pressures. Mine are still at placard pressures, yet I've been running 40 psi when driving in 90F air temperatures on roads that are far hotter. I calculate about a 5% reduction in rolling resistance as a result. Your tires are probably pushing 55 psi... And air density is a factor in the drag force equation, so you're getting some benefit there. Finally, I think warmth also helps bearings, if only to reduce the viscosity of the grease. If you've ever spun a wheel in winter, you know what I mean. Stay well, Frank

My car, at 4000 miles, is responsible for one of the 47's and one of the 33's in the Fuelly data. My June average (2 tanks) is 43.6 mpg. I suspect the lowest values are mis-classified turbos; my 33 was 100% driving 70+ mph. I can't compare avg/min/max with the C-Max, because I'm driving different routes, and no longer commuting. Comparing my retirement years to date, the C-Max tank mileage spans the range of 34-48 mpg, so I expect comparable results with the Escape. Stay well, Frank

I always wondered whether the towing prohibition was market driven, or there was some concern with the chassis. The first two hybrid transaxel generations (in Escapes) had similar design to the more recent HF35/45, and I can't imagine Ford sold an Escape that couldn't tow. Frank

I only get a dozen if I count " TSB14-0078 Door lock repair per TSB" 13C07 Ignition door chime 13B07 PCM reprogram 13B06 Reprogramed rear gate trunk module 13A01 SYNC update 14B03 Fuel economy satisfaction check 14C03 seat back frame replacement 14S04 Perform recall on replaced RCM 14E02 PCM reprogramming 15B04 12v battery test/SW module update 15E03 PCM Reprogramming 16S30 Side door latch replacement The RCM failure was fun; I hit a pothole and the dash went Christmas! Stay well, Frank

You would think.... but if Ford got 13B07 right, then why did they also issue 14E02 and 15E03, both also described as PCM reprogramming on the service order? Granted, they were not complete wipes... only 13B07 reset all the counters. @tsnud look for Paul Jones videos for lots of good driving tips. Best I can offer is a tuft test. Stay well, Frank

Given the degree of commonality between HF35 and HF45 drivetrains (same MGs, I believe), I think the new Escape Hybrid's 1500 lb. limit should give you comfort. Frank

I think it's telling him to stop waiting for plug-in Escape production to start.

Not to be pedantic, but... did you pull the fuse and leave it out a few minutes for everything to discharge before replacing? We called it PO/PO, power off, power on, during my time in testing services. I never questioned if the fuse was operational, rather suggesting it as a means of removing power from the subsystem so that any associated electronics had to reset, akin to the Fuse 79 Radio problem. Stay well, Frank

As the former owner of an Oct/2012 build, my only reservation is the transmission. They typically don't make 100K miles. Early high mileage cars like Paul's were all replaced early under full warranty. That's no longer supported. If it's still original, you may want to look into what replacement would entail, even if it's a few years before it fails. You'll get help here, but I would not buy an all-original 2013 without a plan. I loved the car, it literally changed my personality for the better. Failing to replace my 2013 with a 2018 (last production year) I am very happy in a new Escape hybrid, albeit at greater expense. The HVB is the last of your worries in C-Max Hybrid. Now, the HVB in a C-Max Energi (plug-in) is another story. Stay well, Frank

Me, too.

Have you tried pulling the fuse for the camera? FWIW, new Escapes have a backup camera issue. Mine's crapped out once the same way others on the Escape forum describe (noise pattern on screen), but only once. Frank

I'd start where Plus3 ended, for this sounds like the littlest battery, the CR2032 in the FOB. About $3. I'd expect the 12v to have more complex symptoms, some unrelated to the fob. Stay well, Frank

And Paul, you'll love stop-n-go cruise control... it's an automated drafting system. Frank

For Energi? I see a break where I expect the battery hump. Frank

Many owners have found the opposite - the radio would not turn off. The solution is to pull and replace a fuse #79. It's radio and hazard lights, page 277 in Ver 3 owners' manual. I will suggest you take a look at the fuse, perhaps the PO failed to seat the fuse properly after pulling it. This fuse is under the glove box. You have to pull a panel to see them. Stay well, Frank

They do! OK, not the beloved ES/AS, but that's a very old design. Conversely, you'll have to find a shortcoming in the Bridgestones first. LRR is LRR, with little difference among top tire lines. I keep trying to exceed their traction limits, to see how they behave. Heavy rain yesterday, so I tried to break wet cornering. These tires don't let go, they just keep giving you a little more.... Wholly unexpected given Tire Rack reviews; the trade-off will be tire life, I expect. TANSTAAFL. Thank you for reminding me that I'm not as analytical as I think I am... your loss/benefit analysis is brilliant! And RFT don't work without a wheel. If you trash the rim, all bets are off. Same as my sidewall rupture; nothing "runs flat" with a 2" gash in the sidewall. Plus, I understand that RFT need special mounting equipment to deform the bead over the rim without damaging alloy wheels. Stay well, Frank

Welcome! Tell us more. What model year is your car? How long have you had it? Any chance you have service history? Vibration starts when you "turn it on" but what's "on." Is that the engine coming on, or just moving? Does the ICE change the vibration when it starts? Are there any noises accompanying the vibration? Lots of experience to be found here; we just need to know a little more. Stay well, Frank

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?filtering=true&width=225%2F&ratio=50&diameter=17&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2013&autoModel=C-MAX Hybrid&autoModClar=SEL&sortCode=49700&tireIndex=0#allTitle 30 run-flat tires in the OEM size... OK, lots are duplicate tires, but still... Pirelli and Continental are the price leaders, so screw resistance isn't cheap! Stay well, Frank

Yes, and with more than the normal inverse relationship between how far you plant it, and fuel economy. Find @ptjones Youtube videos to see what all can be done in the name of higher mileage. At a minimum, tire pressures and a grill block are hard to argue with. But here's the thing: this car can be so efficient that you can see real benefit from little things. Tire pressure. Aerodynamic mods like Grill Blocks. No-ethanol Premium Fuel, and of course, driving style. Once you learn "The Hybrid Game," you'll be getting 50's and 60's on a regular basis. I'm driving the new Escape, and the Game is almost easier than C-Max. Stay well, Frank