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The only wear abnormality is the rate. They're running flat across the tread - no feathering - but tread wear does not compare favorably with Michelin's Energy Savers, or X-Ice snows. The green dot is where the CrossClimate fell, 16.5K miles, 4.6mm depth. I will only expect 30K. That said, the wife's kept her Sonata Hybrid out of the ditch for two winters and the car's a ball to drive, dry, wet or snow! The first point is not a dig at my wife, but rather environmental commentary. Rochester won the nation's "snow derby" this winter. No city of 100K got more snow than we did. It was an average year (8'). She does a lot of snow driving (the Lakes give us 1"/day, or feet/hour in squalls, rather than big storms) and didn't miss snow tires. She's not bashful. The second point gets to the tire's trade-off: great grip is easy if you use softer tread compounds. These things will run circles around Energy Savers in the dry, and the comparison only worsens as the conditions degrade. If you drive on fresh snow often, these are a great option. If you go anywhere that requires 3PMS-logo tires, these are a great option. If you carry snow chains... you get the picture. I expect many summer tires can give a better performance-life value proposition if 3PMS is off the table. You ski? I wouldn't buy them for nail resistance... Stay well, Frank PS no obvious mileage hit, either, so low RR, too?

Welcome, as well. Former '13 owner here, but we'll get to that. Is it a Hybrid or an Energi (plug-in)? +1 to needing a spare tire more than any tools. I holed a sidewall; only a spare tire can fix that! That said, I never carried a spare even though I had snow tires. My only add to your list? The tire service warning sounds like what I'd expect if TPMS (tire pressure monitor system) sensors were failed or not present. This is an add from the Xterra, and in its simplest form: no pressure readings, just a warning. Ask your friend about them; he may plead ignorance as they're $20/wheel if they fail, and the car works fine without (I investigated for snows on steel wheels). I'd check on the next tire change, at least. Did the car come with service records? This is a bit of a loaded question, as the answer may not matter at your mileage. Early C-Max had a transmission issue you'll find well documented here. High failure rate, typically at 100K miles. No issues with repaired transmissions. At 143K on this car, it's either past the problem, or it never had it. If you are interested in internal workings, and why you won't service it, check out the Weber State videos. This is his Ford list, scroll down a bit for hybrid videos. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLIn3FrDiB1lwAhpYXTHmgEJLHwEDPYv2d And don't worry about not wrenching... my front suspension links failed, and my friction brakes weren't happy: the fronts dissolved and the rears kept wearing out. But then, I see an awfully lot more snow than you will, and road salt is not easy on unused brake rotors. 99% regen had a downside. But you won't need to carry tools, you'll see these coming! Stay well, Frank

I knew Ford updated Euro-C-Max, didn't know they made a 2-grill Hybrid/Energi. Plus 3, the US never saw the 3rd gen design... Frank

My 2013 made it to January on the original factory battery, 7 years, 3 months, with no issues. I no longer own the car, but suspect it's still working fine, unless the car's been sitting. I'd look into the car's history to see where it was in the country. Heat matters. We get great battery life in upstate NY, Plus 3, not so much in AZ. Stay well, Frank

Wow, my experience says try it! I got one in 2013, and I'm on my second (they don't last). As with many thing, I went looking for dash cams with good reviews and was happy with the one I got. My only complaint is that no suction cup holds forever. The bracket broke at one point, but it was easy and cheap to replace. Now, you have options in C-Max. If you want parking mode, power it from the cargo area 12v outlet. It's always on. The dash cam did not cause me any battery issues in the several weeks I had it set up like this (still on the original battery at trade-in). I got tired of the static scene, and moved to the console cubby outlet, which is switched with ignition. Very easy to run the cable down the A-pillar, under the glovebox and under the edge of the console. Stay well, Frank

Welcome, and congrats on the acquisition! I'll wager its "how long the engine will run if you start and don't move." I bet if you start the car and just sit there, it'll shut down after 5, 10 or 30 minutes. If you have an Energi, or Ford added remote start with FordPass to Sync3, it applies to remote starts, too. Stay well, Frank

When there are moving parts, there's always something to wear. However, I think we have a good model for the expected wear in rear differentials, as they're also simple gear mesh and bearing systems. I blew a diff in my first car, due to a leak. Can't blame that on the gears, and I suspect we've learned a lot since 1970, making these type systems extremely reliable. On the non-moving side, there's nothing immature. Locomotives were hybrids for decades before Prius integrated the power split drivetrain. I'm with @SnowStorm at 500K wearout; my Volvo's never broke (max was 330K miles; but it dissolved). I'd expect the engine to fail first. Frequent cold start/run and lots of fuel in the oil are not a good combination. Stay well, Frank

To be specific, it was a 160K test, but not all made it: - 3 of 4 Hybrids failed, all at about 100K miles. - 0 of 4 Energis failed. At 165K, you're well past the typical failure point, and it's the configuration that didn't show a high failure rate. As I recall, Energi has a direct-drive oil pump, because it can't rely on the engine-driven one in the hybrid. Not much to worry about. Stay well, Frank

There's more to maintain than just WT in the the Escape Hybrid... I had a long, downhill run earlier today, starting with WT in the normal range from ICE use coming up one side of the hill. WT didn't change much during the downhill, but at the bottom, starting ICE put the car went into "cold start" mode where ICE power output is limited for ~15 seconds, and heavily supplemented by EV. My understanding is that it's a catalytic converter temperature issue, as it goes away fast from a true cold start. C-Max does something similar, but I don't recall it ever reverting once warmed up. Stay well, Frank

This is what I've been able to find. It's consistent with yours, save for one comment. I think this is properly stated "88 kW @ 6000 rpm, 177 ft-lb" torque (@ 0 to ~2000 RPM). Motors are current limited at low RPM. And the system torque spec of 155 lb-ft is from the brochure, but less than either ICE or EV alone makes no sense! The Hybrid fits between the 1.5 and 2.0L EBs, so between 190 and 280 lb.-ft. makes sense, 255 lb-ft maybe? Stay well, Frank PERFORMANCE C-Max Escape Engine horsepower 141 hp 168 hp Engine torque 129 lb.-ft. 170 lb.-ft. Total system power (sustain) 188 hp 200 hp, 155 lb-ft. ELECTRIC MOTOR/GENERATOR Type Permanent magnet AC synchronous motor same as C-Max? Output 118 hp@6,000 RPM/88kW@6,000 Torque Torque 177 lb.-ft./240N

My one disappointment with Ford is the lack of simple things like engine specs. Power and torque @ RPM used to be ubiquitous, now we guess and estimate. 10 HP isn't a 25% increase, so I'm expecting a big bump in torque, especially at low RPM, but can't find a bit of data. I also haven't seen anything to indicate the EV side has greater capacity than in C-Max. I think HF35 and HF45 share electric motor specs; it certainly drives like it. I think the big difference is HVB cooling, allowing a more aggressive charging strategy without exceeding thermal limits. I can't see engine charging rates, but have noticed that regen maxes out at 35kW if you're going fast enough. I have also noted that on long downhills, with Hill Assist ON, the car no longer turns the ICE to limit speed once the HVB is full. I see it limit regen to 20kW, max, with resulting reduction in regen score. I wonder if there are resistive loads in the cooling loop with 20kW short-term power dissipation capacity. Given the Escape is a high-volume product, I expected Ford to tell us a lot about it. Not the case.... Stay well, Frank

It would be interesting to see how the Escape fits. With its 2.5l ICE and liquid-cooled HVB, one might expect Ford has re-optimized algorithms. Charging certainly seems to replenish a low HVB SOC very quickly. There's no standard tach access, but I don't hear the engine rev until I'm asking for more than 10kW. Very throaty above there as RPM rises, and I haven't floored it yet. We won't talk about CdA. Stay well, Frank

Hmm, owner's manual disagrees..... "Jump Starting 1. Start the engine of the booster vehicle and run the engine at a moderately increased speed. 2. Start the engine of the disabled vehicle. 3. Once the disabled vehicle has been started, run both engines for an additional three minutes before disconnecting the jumper cables." OTOH, I've never done the 30-minute thing. Stay well, Frank

Jump it.

That price makes sense given the unique rear axle. Given the added power, I expect it to show up in other variants based on this platform. Frank

In this case, we have two drivetrains, and the data says one has far more rolling resistance but vanishingly small drivetrain losses? Wondering, then, if this is a real result or an artifact of the curve fitting process? Have fun, Frank

Well, my sig will show some Fuelly updates. I now have the lowest MPG (32.9) yet reported for an Escape hybrid. I had hoped to also have the highest (41), but some folks must live in warm climates. As of 4 tanks and 1,620 miles, I have: - two with ~50% EV and <30 MPH speeds, - two with <9% EV and >60 MPH speeds. The question becomes how this compares with C-Max. Saturday, pi day, my son and I took a 650 miles road trip to buy pizza in my wife's home town. The C-Max was her father's car, and in 2014, we did some winter trips that might compare with Saturday's. It's a bad comparison for many reasons; I had started doing things to improve mileage, blocking the uppermost grill, adding vortex generators (neither to much effect) and raising tire pressures. Conversely, the C-Max had snow tires in January, it was 20F colder, and the trips were lower average speed, with lots of non-highway miles and much higher EV% Escape averaged 33.60 MPG for a single 650 mile round trip that was 100% highway. C-Max averaged 33.66 MPG for two round trips totalling 1,660 miles, so ~360 rural miles with associated cold starts. Still kind of promising... only Escape mod is fuel; 91E0 going out, but I had to get 93E15 coming back. Time for tire pressure, to 40 psi per the 41 psi load rating. HAve fun, Frank

Per the EPA, for speed v: A is the rolling resistance coefficient (constant) B is drivetrain losses (v) C is the aerodynamic drag coefficient (v^2) Comparing FWDs, the Escape RLHP curve is a tiny bit higher than C-Max. Significantly, the drag contribution is a full 10% greater for Escape at 30 MPH, consistent with its greater height and width. This is offset to a great extent by lower RR and drivetrain losses over most of the speed range. The odd result comes when looking at the AWD data, because drivetrain losses drop dramatically from ~10% contribution to just a few percent. That's more than offset by increased rolling resistance, such that the total RLHP is only a few percent higher for AWD than for FWD. Given that Ford's AWD system claims a "direct disconnect" capability, one wonders what they did here. And that all assumes I didn't screw this up.... HAve fun, Frank

The reliability thread headed into mileage discussion, hit on road load horsepower, so... I tried to replicate Plus 3's C-Max analysis: To the extent that I've done this right, here's what the 2020 Escape Hybrid RLHP looks like. There are 4 tests reported, 2 vehicles each with 2 tests (HWFE and "Federal fuel 2-day exhaust (w/can load)"). Each vehicle has unique coefficients, A, B and C, used for both tests. The first chart is for a 3875 lb. vehicle, labeled FWD. The second vehicle is listed at 4000 lb. and labeled AWD, since that's a 152 lb. option with clear impact on mileage. The tested weight difference is 125 lb., so perhaps FWD has the panoramic sunroof? Let's see how that looks...

PM sent to Plus 3.

Paul, we have/had SELs. The SEs had lots of 12v issues that should show up in this kind of thing... Frank

Yeah, the car thought I got 38.2 MPG. Trip odo doesn't tell you how much fuel you used, so I calculate the difference to be 0.311 gal. less in the car's "mind." Very Cmax-like. And remember, I spent an inordinate amount of time idling on the first tank. It took a while to set up menus, and it's cold in January. Avg. speed was only 27.9 MPH despite an estimate of 25% highway. And I'm assuming this was 87E15 fuel. The second tank is 91E0 fuel, and I'm trying to push the mode button twice to get into ECO mode. I'm at 933 miles now. and planning to take a trip this weekend, so I can report on a couple more tanks and some highway mileage. When I filled, the miles-to-empty (MTE) display was only 450 miles, despite filling at 500 miles with 50 reserve remaining. It was easy to add the odo (at 500 miles) to the MTE (450) and get an estimate of odo at the next fill (950 miles). I've still got 177 MTE, so the sum is now 1110 miles. The car thinks it's getting 43.1. I expect highway more in the high 30's with ECO-cruise set to 71-72 MPH. Have fun, Frank

Only bought gas once, my sig's the population.

No? I had no problem isolating the seven Escape Hybrid tanks. Frank

Three gal. is only 150 miles; you'll make it up in a week. Frank