plus 3 golfer

There are DTCs for virtually all exterior lights like these three for the left front turn signal: B123A:09 Left Front Turn Indicator: Component Failure B123A:11 Left Front Turn Indicator: Circuit Short to Ground B123A:15 Left Front Turn Indicator: Circuit Short to Battery or Open For those with a an android or iOS device, one can get an ELM 327 (< $25) and the ForScan Lite App (< $5) and scan for DTC. And one can pick up a Service Manual DVD on e-bay for as little as $10 for replacement procedures (also probably videos on youtube with respect to replacement of lamps). IMO, even if one never has an issue, it's worth $40 just to monitor data like tire pressures, temperatures, and so forth.

It sounds to me that the dealer contacted Ford between 6/27 and 7/7 and Ford did not approve your transmission replacement based on what the dealer described (probably including possible damage caused by the towing). Thus, the dealer's reply to you on 7/7 about not fixing the transmission under warranty. Unless I'm missing something, your transmission should be covered for 8 years and 100 k miles (per the odometer) per the New Car Limited Warranty / Unique Hybrid Electric Components Warranty as towing behind an RV is clearly permitted in the Owner's Manual. You might want to call the dealer back and clarify whether Ford denied the warranty and why. The one time I called Ford CS, CS indicated I'd hear from them in 24 hours and I did. Sounds to me Ford is likely gathering details from the dealer and perhaps the reason they haven't called back yet. IMO the dealer should have been able to easily get Ford's approval for the warranty repair. There is nothing IMO out of the ordinary.

Is there any other electrical equipment that does not work when this happens? There is a load shed strategy when the 12 V battery falls below a certain level (IIRC somewhere around a 40% SOC). I have never seen a list of equipment that is shut down when this happen but know the Infotainment Systems are shut down. I would assume that the charging algorithm for the 12 V battery is temperature compensated (like the voltage regulators in alternator charging systems). Lead acid battery life can be increased by lowering the charging voltage when the 12 V battery is subject to high ambient temps. We also know that the 12 V battery data is monitored via a sensor in the negative cable. Perhaps the battery is failing and the SOC is below / near the 40% threshold on startup and charging via the DC/DC converter is limited because of high cabin temperature. Then, perhaps, the load shed program is initiated. One other comment. There is a sun load sensor in the center on top of the dash. It can be pulled out as there are spring clips on the sides. I know this sensor affects the operation of the climate control system but maybe its data is used by other modules. Try covering it or perhaps disconnecting it and see what happens. I'm going to say this again (as I've said in many threads) that there may be DTCs present in the modules. The ForScan App could be very helpful in checking modules for DTCs and monitoring data from the modules during this condition. Is a module "dead", not responding, what is its status, is there a broadcast load shed message to the modules, or something else happening?

I think it's worth trying for $12 and see if the issue goes away. Another possible cause of evaporator icing (that I can think of) might be low refrigerant in the system (other than control circuit / electronics). The fact that the TSB applies to only certain vehicles might indicate a batch of bad sensors or inadequate factory charging. I note that the TSB does not assume that there may be a leak (loss of refrigerant), bad compressor and so forth as it does not mention these as a possibility or to check. I guess it's possible with a slightly lower refrigerant charge and higher humidity, that the icing process will block only part of the evaporator core starting from where the liquid enters the core and the sensor cannot accurately read the temperature of the evaporator core air. There is not enough liquid refrigerant to "evaporate" in the evaporator coil and freeze the entire core (as might happen with a bad sensor). So, the coil partially freezes, air flow diminishes, and warmer air flows through the part of the coil not iced such that the evaporator temperature is above the the threshold temperature to cutoff the compressor and the compressor continues to run resulting in low air flow and diminished cooling. So to minimize Ford's cost under warranty when a customer has this "known" issue, it's likely cheaper to evacuate, recharge, change filter and temperature sensor rather than to pay the dealer time for first troubleshooting and then time to fix. There are many DTC for the Climate Control System. Below are some that may be relevant. PCM DTC P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor “A” Circuit Low P0533 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor “A” Circuit High BCM DTC B1B71:21 Evaporator Temperature Sensor: Signal Amplitude < Minimum B1B71:22 Evaporator Temperature Sensor: Signal Amplitude > Maximum B1B71:2F Evaporator Temperature Sensor: Signal Erratic

This appears to be the evaporator temperature sensor: A/C Evaporator Temperature Sensor MOTORCRAFT YH-1771 MSRP is $11.98 per Fordparts.com For those out of warranty or with a high deductible on an extended warranty, I'd just buy it for $12 and put it in. Dealer will likely charge $100 just to diagnose, $12 for part + labor assuming the dealer does nothing with respect to the refrigerant system. I'd be careful as some shops (not only dealers) will likely also evacuate refrigerant, change dryer, and recharge for $100s more. ;) One could end up with a $300-$500 bill for a $12 part and likely 15 minutes of ones time.

First, I think you mean the evaporator core ices up (not the compressor). Second, this doesn't "fix" the issue as the evaporator temperature sensor should cut off the compressor before the evaporator core freezes. It's likely the sensor is faulty. The evaporator temp sensor measures the air temperature of the air exiting the core. Normally, if the evaporator discharge air temperature is below approximately 35.6 °F, the compressor is "shut" off to prevent icing of the evaporator core. I haven't looked up the price of the evaporator core sensor but I doubt it would be more than $20-$30. Replacement is easy as it appears to be behind a small cover (maybe 4" x 4") on the right side of the driver's center console foot well panel. See below.

There's certainly a drain but I doubt that is the issue. It's probably the temperature sensor if you have no air flow as that would indicate something is blocking the air flow through the evaporator core (likely the condensate is freezing). It's probably not too difficult to replace the temp. sensor. When I have time I'll look at the service manual. This is another case where the ForScan smartphone app would likely help in troubleshooting as there's likely data / diagnostic trouble codes available.

MG2 (the traction motor) spins proportionately with vehicle speed (MPH). ICE on or off has no "bearing" :) on the rpm of MG2. The load on the bearings of MG2 likely differs when coasting, EV only operation, ICE only operation, combination of ICE / EV, going up hill and so forth. I wonder if an Energi can maintain 85 mph on a steep upgrade in EV only mode? or will ICE come on to maintain speed at lower than 85 mph when going up steep hills? Also, at around 85 mph, MG2 spins at about 10,500 rpm based on extrapolation of observed data from my Hybrid (never watched / recorded MG1 / MG2 data at 85 mph) and based on typical data shown in the Service Manual.

Are you saying jump starting your C-Max doesn't work? or that charging with battery charger isn't working? You need to make sure the replacement 12 V battery fits into the space if you are not replacing with OE battery. The service manual also implies that the BCM needs to be reset when a new battery is installed (see my link above). It's likely won't matter if not reset, but who knows as we don't know what the BCM algorithm does to regulate charging.

Ford recommends using the same capacity battery as OE because of the charging / monitoring algorithms for the 12 V battery.

Attach jumper cables from other car to C-Max. C-Max has positive post and ground post under the hood. Search for pics of posts if not familiar with the location of the posts. Start C-Max normally with push button. If you don't get "ready to drive" message, then there is likely something other than the 12 V battery wrong with car. When my 12 V battery wouldn't hold a charge, I started my car by jump starting. I then drove it to the dealer for replacement. If you have the rotten egg smell, the battery may have an internal short, overheating, and venting. Not good as sulfuric acid can cause damage. The battery is located under the floor of the hatch area. Lift up the cover for the small storage area in the hatch. You then can pull out the floor cover of the storage area to see the battery.

Jump start with another vehicle. Leave in ready to drive mode. HVB via the DC-DC converter will charge the 12 V battery. If HVB gets low, ICE will start. Turn off all accessories. You can drive the car if you desire. I'd leave in ready to drive mode for a couple of hours. I'd also have the 12V battery tested to ensure it will hold a charge.

I got my rebate check today. I scanned the Walmart receipt in and submitted it electronically. It took about 10 weeks to get the check.

If this issue is bearing failure, then UOAs might be in order as one might see elevated metals. But that likely won't help in getting Ford to preemptively replace the transmission. Changing fluid likely won't "fix" a bad bearing. I believe ones best bet is to monitor TFT for abnormal increases but Ford again likely won't replace it unless there is noise. So, what I'm doing is monitoring TFT. If elevated, I will drive it hoping for the "noise" before the warranty expires. If elevated TFT, no "noise" and near 100k miles, I'll then trade it. I'll be around 75 k miles by the end of summer (about 5 k miles in trips planned) and likely will be approaching 100 k miles at the end of 2018. Hope we get more definitive data / info on these failures by then.

A couple years ago I ran coast down tests with "gas pods" on my C-Max. Bottom line: I wouldn't recommend spending $ on them for the C-Max as I saw worse coast down data with pods than without.

Probably because these vehicles are not covered under Ford's new car limited warranties as they are likely "fleet" or "commercial" vehicles not individual consumer vehicles.

Not really as much as you think. I've posted AC power draws in posts before in Phoenix. IIRC, after a few minutes of high draw to initially cool the cabin, the draw is generally around 250 W - 300 W even in 100+ temps. Humidity in Phoenix is very low compared to areas such as around the Gulf coast and southeast Atlantic coast. The heat capacity of humid air is significantly more than dry air. You can look at the enthalpy of the water vapor in moist air vs dry air. It takes energy to remove the latent heat of the water vapor when cooling moist air. So, climates with high humidity and higher temperatures may require more energy to reach and maintain a comfortable, conditioned cabin than in Phoenix. Also, I doubt this has anything to do with the transmission failures. I've also monitored TFT in Phoenix during 100+ days. IIRC, it correlates with ECT and ambient temperature which it should since the transmission cooler is below the engine radiator. It's too bad that TFT wasn't monitored in the test vehicles as increasing / high TFT could be a predictor of transmission failure. IIRC, ptjones experienced very high TFT before his failure.

As I've said before, my issue is what else might we not have the latest version of software installed. For example, apparently ptjones' C-Max and mine have different software installed as our grille shutters operate differently. Yet, owner.ford.com shows no outstanding service action items for my C-Max. Ford reps, why haven't we been updated as to the status of this issue? It's been around 6 months since this issue surfaced.

Interesting Infineum report (they do provide a lot of good diesel fuel survey data for anyone with a diesel). Slides 16 and 17 are interesting as the FE from the dash computers shows no FE improvement using "thinner" oil (slide 16). But the FE as measured by a "data logger" (wonder what they mean, what are they measuring) shows a "remarkable" (unbelievable?) improvement in FE from say 25 mpg to 34 mpg using "thinner" oil. I'm not sure I'd report this until I understood what is going on. Am I missing something? One other point and that is the study is on Camry Hybrids used in taxis service - probably the most severe operating conditions a vehicle would experience. So, I don't think we have to "worry" about OCI, Blackstone lab results, and life / durability of our C-Max ICE. ;) I'll also bet that most of use will never see 200 k miles on our C-Max (or even 150 k miles).

With eco-cruise set around 85 mph (set with gps), the trip computer will read about 35 to 36 mpg but the trip computers are usually off from actual by about 4-5%. Also, with eco-cruise I'd say the average speed is likely slightly less than 85 mph and there is the occasional slow down passing cars / trucks. This FE is with AC on and about 500 pounds of passenger / cargo weight on the stretch of I20 in both directions between Monahans, TX and around the junction of I10 with I20 about 80 miles. So, for the 80 miles of trip computer data, I would say that 33-34 mpg is likely closer to the "real" FE at a "true" 85 mph average speed. Handling is good at 85 mph. I have no issues but it's hard to compare without testing other cars at the same time.

I think I cited this attachment before in this forum (but could have been another). It's a long but interesting read. There's a lot that goes into setting speed limit. Crashes are only one part as you can't set speed limits to zero and maybe 80 mph makes more sense on some interstates than 70 mph even though the severity of a crash at 80 mph is likely greater than one at seventy. "A change in the speed limit almost always changes the mean speed of traffic. However, the changes are not always proportional. For the most part, the change in the mean speed of traffic created by a change in speed limit is around 25 percent of the change in the speed limit.7 In other words, a speed limit increase or reduction of 6 mph (10 km/h) yields about a 1.5 mph (2.5 km/h) raising or lowering of the mean speed, respectively. When this statistic is combined with the power formula equating change in mean speed to crash risk, it is evident that lowering the speed limit will reduce crash risk, and raising the speed limit will increase crash risk. Whether the safety gains/losses associated with the change in the speed limit is worthwhile must be examined in the context of maintaining reasonable mobility, and other system objectives. In addition, the policy context must be considered because the relationship between travel speed and speed limits indicates that the percentage of violators increases when speed limits are lowered and decreases when speed limits are increased." fhwasa12004.pdf

Yep, 17 oops 18 posts now about "nothing". 12 V batteries do fail as I said in post 9. ;) We'll likely see more threads like this in the future as 12 V batteries don't last forever and many will likely be failing on MY 2013 in the next year or so. Again, my 12 V C-Max battery lasted 30 months in the Phoenix area - about average for such a hot climate (see chart below).

It matters not what vehicle I drive. Let me tell you "why". I drive 85 mph in TX to save time (80 mph speed limit) and generally 80 mph when the speed limit is 75 and so forth whether in my C-Max or in other cars I own / owned - Passat, Jetta, Maxima, C280, Rogue. The additional speed on a 2000+ mile cross country trip saves over 2 1/2 hours of driving time and allows me to save one night of lodging on the cross country trip. Whether when driving the C-Max I get near 40 mpg or 27 mpg in the Passat or 42 in the Jetta TDi, the vehicle or my FE is not material to how fast I drive across country. ;) :)

That's a standard message if you stay in the car say with the radio on even when you turn the car off via the push button. If you exit the car and close the door, the MFT should turn off. Perhaps if the 12V battery is weak, the message comes on quicker.