plus 3 golfer

The fact is that vehicles are likely still not showing up is nearly 1 1/2 years when V3.8 update became available and did not show up as an update for my vehicle at that time. My vehicle at that time was not even 3 years old. Some 2013 showed up others didn't. If you can't locate that thread, I'll be happy to find it for you. I and many sent our VINs to one of your team members on this site at that time as requested. Ford continued to show my vehicle as being up to date with the older version for at least 6 months after V3.8 was released at which time I downloaded V3.8 from a link on the net and installed it. My vehicle is now shown as up to date with V3.8. To my knowledge no one from Ford has ever got back on that thread as to when / why V3.8 was not shown as being available to us even though we were assured that are vehicles were eligible for V3.8 What is of great concern is that if this Ford issue of "not showing" updates on Ford's website for our vehicles that we are entitled to isn't resolved, how can I and others be assured that the issue will ever be resolved. We, in essence, have paid Ford for a product including updates that we are never made aware of.

AC will come as long as these conditions are met: "The A/C demand message is sent from the SOBDMC over the HEV High Speed Controller Area Network (HS-CAN) to the ACCM . The ACCM engages the A/C electric compressor when all of the following conditions are met: The PCM does not detect excessively high or low refrigerant pressure from the A/C pressure transducer.The PCM does not detect an ambient air temperature below approximately 35.6 °F ( 2 °C).The BCM does not detect an evaporator discharge air temperature below approximately 35.6 °F ( 2 °C)."So, with auto control on, the modules may allow AC to turn on to control cabin humidity because the ambient temperature is believed to be high. This doesn't mean the AC compressor is running full out. It is simply running to keep humidity down. If you look at the My View screen that shows climate demand, you probably would have seen minimal demand. This happens all the time for me (AC turns on) even with "real" ambient temps around 55 - 65 F and set point at say 70 F. So, most times I manually turn AC off. As soon as you turn AC off, you can feel the rise in humidity in the car and one is more uncomfortable. Yet the cabin temp. is unchanged. Auto climate control is simply trying to keep one comfortable by lowering humidity. :) What does surprise me is that evidently the algorithms make no checks as to sensor integrity like emissions systems do and switch to alternative data. IIRC, for the emissions system, there is a check of intake air temp sensor reading against ambient temp sensor reading.

As OP indicated there was no faults (DTCs) detected by the climate control software, So, if the set point cabin temperature is above the cabin temp sensor value and the outside ambient temp sensor shows outside is higher than the set point temp, the algorithm will use outside air to bring the cabin temp up to the set point. Since the outside sensor was giving a faulty high reading, the cabin was not being heated. Generally, if such software detects that the outside temp sensor reading is bad, the algorithm will use a backup sensor like perhaps the intake air temp reading in place of the ambient temp sensor and throw a DTC.

Sounds like the OP needs a Bose ride suspension system. I wonder what ever happened to this system since the reviews in the video show 2004.

It doesn't appear that the whole mirror needs replaced as the guts of the mirror appear to come apart to for example change the light in the mirror. It's not clear from the service manual. However, it you look at fordparts.com, you may be correct. The sensor is not shown as a part in the RH mirror assembly. Also, there are parts such as the mirror glass, puddle lights, motor, painted cover etc that can be purchased / replaced separately. But the main body (excluding the replaceable parts) likely holds the sensor and does not have a part number. So, it looks like there is one part number for the entire mirror assembly excluding the painted cover which is needed just to replace the sensor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-RH-RIGHT-PASSENGER-SIDE-REAR-VIEW-POWER-DUAL-FOLD-MIRROR-2013-14-C-MAX-/281779310920?fits=Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AC-Max&hash=item419b5b1148:g:Y6kAAOSwtnpXip8s&vxp=mtr

Thanks, good to know. Perhaps, the tubes were never locked in place to begin with.

The Ambient Temp Sensor is located in the RH exterior mirror and wired via the Battery Junction Box (fuse / relay box under the hood) to the PCM connectors (under hood LH side). The temp data from the PCM is transmitted via the CAN to other modules. If I counted correctly, there are five connectors between the sensor and PCM. Other than the connector at the sensor, the connectors have many, many wires in them as the wiring harness makes its way to the PCM. The sensor is a thermistor. When temperature increases the resistance of the thermistor in the circuit decreases. The sensor signal to the PCM is determined by the ratio of a fixed resistor in the sensor and the thermistor resistance in series in the circuit. As the thermistor resistance drops, the voltage signal to the PCM decreases. So, an intermittent open circuit or an intermittent short to ground of the signal circuit to the PCM could cause a high ambient temp as the signal voltage might drop to zero. If the dealer can't find an obvious issue with the sensor, wires or connectors, the wiring harness (or parts of it) may need replaced to fix the issue. Hopefully, the issue is the sensor / chaffing wires / bad connector before the wires become part of the huge wiring harness.

The DTC are listed under the ETM screen that shows "DTC HIST CURR". The more I dig into this from other forums and the service manual (see below in RED), the more I believe ETM DTCs only apply to the instrument panel cluster (IPC module) troubleshooting. Someone posted codes one time that were shown on the DTC ETM screen. Problem was that the codes were not in the standard OBDII format (P,C,U,Bxxxx format). I have yet to find the "key" on the internet to translate these codes shown on the ETM screen to the OBDII format shown in the service manual. Here's what hybridbear says: "The "key" can be found by purchasing an OASIS subscription. It defines all the codes stored by all the modules. PM me if you have codes that you are wondering about and I'll look them up in OASIS. The mods at the Fusion Hybrid & Energi Forums share an OASIS subscription since it helps so much in tracking TSBs, SSMs & more. The mods here may want to consider doing the same thing. The subscription is about $100 per year." A subscription to OASIS would be nice but not for $100 a year. Here are excerpts of what Ford says about the ETM DTC screen in the service manual: To enter the IPC engineering test mode or dealer test mode, begin with the ignition OFF. Press and hold the LH steering wheel switch OK button. Place the ignition ON and continue to hold the button for 5-8 seconds until the display indicates ET in the upper LH corner of the message center. Press the up or down arrow buttons to navigate through each of the display windows. To exit the IPC dealer test mode, press and hold the OK button for 5-8 seconds or place the ignition in OFF. Each down arrow button press advances the viewing window to the next set of items. ... DTC HIST CURR xxxxxx x x xxxxxx x Displays all of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) set (history and current Diagnostic Trouble Codes [DTCs]). An X in the HIST or CURR column means the DTC is active. Three Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) display on each screen. If more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, there will be additional screens listing them. If there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in history or current, the display will only be the title row.

What do the Service Orders say? The dealer should show the Diagnostic Trouble Codes that triggered the CEL. Has the dealer contacted Ford techs for guidance? Take your car to a different dealer as they may have better techs or have seen something similar before. If the dealer can't fix the issue with one more attempt, open a case with Ford. This is the reason I buy the service manuals and a scanning tool (ForScan). There may be many potential causes for the DTC(s). So, the dealer (and Ford) will only try one fix at a time. Otherwise, Ford won't reimburse the dealer for the labor or parts to replace ALL potential parts that could trigger the CEL at one time. Having the Ford documentation (service manual) and ability to look at data (ForScan) while the car is being driven gives the owner "ammunition" to press Ford to get the issue fixed.

I believe that is the deal I got. I'll check (when I get back after Christmas) and also check the installation cost which I believe was around $25 as the battery monitoring data also had to be reset with their programming tool. As I reported prior, I had my car in for a recall in the summer of 2015 (30 months after purchase) at 48k miles and made sure the dealer checked the battery as it failed to start my car several times. My recharging and subsequent voltage measurements indicated the battery wouldn't hold a charge long. Two more points. IIRC, Ford Quick Service can't do the job because of the resetting of the battery monitoring. So, don't expect to just drive in and get the battery replaced without an appointment. Also, the C-Max PLUS battery has the 84 month warranty (not the 100 month MAX) prorated warranty and free replacement up to 18 months (not the 36 months as with the 100 month MAX prorated battery).

http://parts.davidstanleyford.com/p/Ford__C-Max/Battery/54406040/BXT67R.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla In AZ, I paid $140 at Ford dealer including installation and sales tax (around 9.5%). Look for coupons from Ford or dealer.

Are you sure Eco cruise is actually enabled when you set Eco cruise to "on" in the informational displays? both when EcoSelcct is enabled and not enabled. Reading the manual seems to indicate that it may not be enabled through the informational displays. But perhaps could be disabled in EcoSelect if Eco Cruise is disabled in the informational display. Another case of a poorly written manual. :) With EcoSelect button off and Eco cruise on, and when cruise control is enabled, how do really know whether you are in Eco - cruise or regular cruise control? Is there some indication on the dash? IMO, Eco cruise is okay but I couldn't live with the other conditions in EcoSelect just to get Eco Cruise.

Reboot didn't help me. I got timeouts and SQL errors most of the time. Away for weekend so could't try our desktops. I had no issues with other sites including the c-max energi sister site.

The inherent issue with super capacitors has been energy density. Based on the one link it's only 3-7 Wh per kg for the super cap (let's assume an optimistic value of 10 Wh per pound with ongoing development). So, say a 12 kWh super cap would weigh about 1200 pounds - Tesla's 85 kWh battery pack weighs 1200 pounds. That might be okay for the buses in China but it appears that there's a lot more work to get the energy density up for super caps to compete with ICE vehicles on range and energy replacement times. The new technology is believed to have the potential for electric cars to travel to similar distances as petrol cars without the need to stop for lengthy re-charging breaks of between 6-8 hours, and instead re-charge fully in the time it takes to fill a regular car with petrol.

Apparently not on the Hybrid. ECO CruiseNote: ECO Cruise is available as a separatefeature on Energi vehicles only. On nonplug-in vehicles it is included in EcoSelect.This feature saves vehicle energy byrelaxing acceleration compared tostandard cruise control. For example, yourvehicle may temporarily lose speed whengoing uphill. When set to on, ECO appearsin the information display when cruisecontrol is on.You can switch it on or off in through theinformation display. See GeneralInformation (page 93).

You are right. It's called ECOSELECT in the 2016 owner's manual.. Based on what I read, I'd turn it off and thus not have ECO Cruise available.. It does increase regeneration which IMO will likely benefit those that have poor brake scores using the friction brakes more often. I guess the intent is to improve FE for more aggressive drivers. ECOSELECTEcoSelect is a drive mode for non-pluginvehicles designed to offer the best possiblefuel economy with only a slight impact tovehicle performance and comfort.E198654To switch EcoSelect on, pressthe ECO button.A graphic displays on your informationdisplay when EcoSelect is on.Your vehicle will remember the lastselected mode whenever you start yourvehicle.EcoSelect allows your vehicle to operatemore efficiently. You will notice:• Less aggressive heating and cooling.• Softer acceleration.• More regenerative braking.• Changes in engine behavior.• ECO cruise control activation.

Ask the dealer for the Diagnostic Trouble Codes that triggered the check engine light or better yet spend about $30 for an ELM327 and the ForScan App to check for DTCs yourself. You can also monitor real time data. :) IMO, it's worth it just to monitor tire pressure.

My guess is most just drive the car with ECO mode either on or off and don't switch back and forth. If your goal is to maximize FE, than leave ECO mode off as a hyper-miler can always beat ECO mode with respect to FE. But after a while the "FE challenge" will likely wane - I just leave ECO mode on. :) I don't believe regeneration increases in ECO mode. That's counter intuitive to increasing FE (as one would believe is the goal of ECO mode) as it's generally better to coast (no throttle) with less regeneration than more since there are energy losses in converting the kinetic energy of the moving car to electrical energy, storing the electrical energy in the HVB, and converting the stored energy back to mechanical energy. If you want to increase FE, try shifting to neutral and coasting with no regeneration rather than use regeneration when going down hills or coasting to stops (the legality of coasting in N has been discussed ad infinitum so no need to rehash). Your FE will increase.

Sounds correct. Seems to me I recall reading that the "coast down" methodology to determine the road load coefficients which are used to setup the dynamometer was changed from a coast down speed of 70 mph to maybe 50? mph. I'll see if I can find EPA changes in the quidelines and why. This change might increase / decrease the relationship of the road load coefficients associated with the road load components. But EPA has adjusted FE of prior years models also as shown in djc first post. I doubt the manufacturers re-tested prior year models. So, I question whether one can determine if 2017 models that were actually tested are really more / less efficient than prior models absent retesting all prior year models. The 2017 Fusion Hybrid was tested. AFAIK, there is no requirement for manufacturers to test the same model every year like the C-Max. Remember these EPA numbers are to be used for comparison of vehicles among makes and models. I wouldn't bet the house that a 2017 FFH gets better highway FE than a 2016 FFH all other things being equal. :) But, it is a feather in Ford's hat that the EPA Hwy rating of the FFH has increased. I wouldn't bet the house that a 2017 FFH gets better highway FE than a 2016 FFH all other things being equal. :)

Click on full version of the site. Then click on image in the post. Options, View all sizes, Large. You'll have no problem reading.

Follow attachments. Wheel needs removed to remove fender splash shield.

Are there any Diagnostic Trouble Codes listed on the dealer's Service Order for diagnosing the issue? Ten hours of labor suggests removing the dash and removing the HVAC box under the dash which requires messing with the refrigerant and coolant systems. I looked in the service manual and have attached the components diagram of the HVAC box under the dash. To get to the two actuators (#2 and #4 on the attachment) on the left side (driver's side) of the box, requires removing the driver side knee air bags. There is no procedure shown for removing the actuating assembly (#1) which IMO may be the issue. It may be sold as part of the HVAC box. Perhaps the actuating assembly can be removed after the two actuators are removed. If the issue is the actuating box, perhaps a fix like Homestead indicates is possible. If the air bags weren't involved in getting to #2 and #4 (I've never removed air bags), I would not hesitate in seeing if I could remove the actuating assembly without disassembling the dash and assessing whether it is broken and could be fixed rather than spending $1700. BTW, there are many fault codes for the Climate Control System and a scan with ForScan might indicate what the issue is.

EVs wouldn't be a cost effective vehicle for me either with gas under $2 a gallon and the variable charge for electricity at under $0.09 per kWh (TOU tariff not effective because no load shifting from on to off-peak of normal consumption to make up the higher service charge of the TOU tariff). So, although the cost of fuel for an EV vs Gas Hybrid might reduce my cost by $0.03 per mile currently, I would need the spread to increase at least 4X before I would consider an EV. An EV might save me $150 a year at current fuel prices and my estimate of driving around 8 k miles a year with the Bolt. However, I would / could not come close to approaching the near 20 k miles a year that I currently drive my C-Max with a Bolt. A 200 mile range, lack of charging infrastructure, and time to charge are still negatives that would limit the usability of a Bolt for me and hence make it a bad choice from a value standpoint. You won't see me "in line" for a Bolt. :)

mynissanleaf.com there's a thread where a member posts the screenshots of auction prices every week.