plus 3 golfer

Isn't Cuba, NY at a higher elevation than Cape Cod. :) That 3200' or so uphill going home will "tank" FE. For example, the potential energy of a 4200 pound car at 3200 feet compared to sea level would be equivalent to about the energy in 1/2 gallon of gas burned in the C-Max to account for the elevation change. 500 miles @ 40 mpg on flat ground uses 12.5 gallons. Add the 1/2 gallon for the elevation change to the 12.5 gallons and the FE drops to 38.5 mpg for the 500 miles. Grille shutters will be full open at about 212-214*F. The grille shutters begin to open at about 194-196*F. If you have ForScan, you can monitor grille shutter operation.

You can actually leave your car in ready to drive mode, exit the car with your FOB, lock your car with the FOB, and leave. ICE will start when the HVB gets to the low SOC trigger level. I do this all the time when we travel with our dog and stop for lunch or dinner.

Tymer, IMO, given your conditions and driving style, I'd easily get 42 mpg actual FE (maybe 44 displayed) in my 2013. Since you are only getting 34.7 mpg as displayed, IMO, something is amiss. Your FE seems to be low by maybe 15-20%. The first thing that jumps out is your EV miles are not consistent, IMO, with what you describe as your driving style, speeds, and conditions. About 25% of your total miles are EV miles. IMO, your EV miles should be a lot higher given what you stated in your post. It's an indication that the hybrid system may not be used very efficiently. The question is why are your EV miles much lower than what I would expect? Also, given that the previous owner only got a lifetime average of 34 mpg and you experience low FE, I'd have the dealer reinstall the software up to current levels. There have been several members who claimed to have experienced a drop in FE after at least one of the earlier updates. A re-installation of the software again supposedly reversed the drop in FE. You may have a hard time convincing the dealer to do it but you need to get it done before your power train 5 year / 60 k miles warranty expires.

You'll need 4.5 quarts. So, get the 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W20 motor oil (see image in my post above of jug). You can also buy the Motorcraft filter at Walmart (FL-910S) for around $3.97 (a lot less than the dealer will charge). Also, I don't know what the dealer will charge for the oil change if you supply the oil and filter but you likely can find a local shop that will do it for a lot less. BTW, I just submitted my Walmart Mobil 1 purchase rebate form to Mobil. We'll see if Walmart is a "participating" retailer in about 2-5 days. :)

Problem with electric ones is that the residential ones are designed to use 120 VAC, 15 A circuits. To get higher pressures and flow like the gas ones, the HP rating would likely need to be at least 4 HP (which is likely more expensive than a gas 4 HP engine) and would require a circuit to handle 3000 Watts (240 VAC circuit). For example, my pressure washer is rated at 2600 psi @ 2.2 gallons / minute with the 15* tip in. That equates to a motor with a 4.0 HP output to drive the pump.

Resetting the Oil Life Monitoring System Note: Reset the oil life monitoring only after an oil change. 1. Turn the ignition key to the on position. Do not start the engine. For vehicles with push-button start, press and hold the start button for two seconds without pressing the brake pedal. Do not attempt to start the engine. 2. Press both the accelerator and brake pedals at the same time. 3. Keep both pedals fully pressed. 4. After three seconds, the Service: Oil reset in prog. message will be displayed. 5. After 25 seconds, the Service: Oil reset complete message will be displayed. 6. Release both the accelerator and brake pedals. 7. The Service: Oil reset complete message will no longer be displayed. 8. Rotate the key to the off position. For vehicles with push-button start, press the start button to turn the vehicle off completely.

Never happens to me with an SEL. So, first what happens when the car doesn't move like Kelleytoons says outside a car wash and also what happens when the car is moving outside the car wash. Find a steeper hill and shift into neutral and coast as far as you can safely do, then put it back into drive - what happens? I'd say there's an issue somewhere no matter what the outcome of the the above tests are as the car should never have to be "restarted" if one simply shifts to neutral and back to drive once the car is started (in ready to drive mode). It would be interesting to run a scan with ForScan and check for DTCs and also monitor state the car is in when going through the car wash.

As they say "live for today" as tomorrow may never come (highly likely with Ford ever fixing it). I installed v3.8 today

Welcome to the "club", Smirpuri! Just think of all those owners that are likely in the same boat but don't know there's a more current version that they are entitled to. On April 21, 2016 it will be 6 months since I sent my VIN to the Ford rep on this site as requested supposedly so that Ford could troubleshoot / correct the issue of v3.8 not showing up. Still waiting. I do have v3.6 though (not v3.5 like you do). :2thumbs:

IIRC, the TFT may not be supported in the PCM module but supported in another module. I'll look later.

Why not use the ForScan app and you won't have to worry about entering PID data. I believe the data for TFT is buried somewhere in this forum but couldn't find it with a quick search. Here's a link of how to convert the Scan Gauge code TFT shown below to the engine link format. TXD: 07E6221E1C RXF: 0462051E061C RXD: 3010 MTH: 000900500020 NAM: TFT

Yep, $22.88 :)

Yes, there could be DTCs without a CEL especially for the issue you have as the CEL is illuminated for issues that may affect emissions. . Here are two codes that could indicate a bad sensor: B1A63:00 and B1A64:00 There appears to be several simple voltage / resistance tests to determine if the sensor may be bad.

Thanks. Mobil 1 AFE 0W20 is $22.88 for 5 quarts jug at my local Walmart but Walmart is not listed as a participating retailer on the Mobil site which lists "some" of the participating dealers. I'm fairly sure I got a rebate on a prior purchase from Walmart on Mobil 1. Also, it appears the $12 rebate is for 5 quarts or more. So, apparently no double dipping from the same address. :) I will buy a jug and apply for the rebate and see what happens. NAPA is on the list but I'll bet you'll pay $35+ for a 5 quart jug.

mtta, the issue may be something other than the Sun Load sensor. You might want to consider getting an ELM327 OBDII interface module and the ForScan App for a smartphone especially if you like to "tinker" and learn more about your C-Max. In that way, you can check to see if there are any DTCs. Also, there may be a voltage data point that can be monitored to see if the voltage changes when one covers the sensor (I'll check to see what's available in ForScan when I have time).

The SUN LOAD (not headlight :)) sensor is in the center front of the dash. If it doesn't pull right out you may need to pry up a little or push a tab in as it may have spring type clips on the side to hold it in place. It looks to be around $35 from a Ford dealer. Try some on line stores and Ebay.

Agree with raadsel. A SA would have seen the issue and likely pulled fuse 79 and also checked for any Field Service Action items on your car. Redheadmed, the owner's manual clearly identifies fuse 79 for the radio, hazard light switch. You can check for FSAs yourself on owner.ford.com or enter your VIN here.

That's not how MY 2013 auto headlamps work. When in auto mode and in normal daytime light (especially in sunshine) the headlamps are off. If when in auto mode and the headlamps come on like when in a dimly lit tunnel in daytime, the headlamps will not stay on after exiting the tunnel (short time delay after exiting). The headlamps do not become running lights. mtta, was your car a commercially leased vehicle as IIRC they can be programmed for day time running lights? or maybe someone modified your vehicle for daytime running lights? The sunlight sensor is on the top of the dash in the center. Did the dealer scan your car for diagnostic trouble codes as there are many DTCs for the sunlight sensor?

Welcome. Report your complaint here (as indicated in my post 2). You can check the complaints to see if others filed a complaint similar to yours. Also, take the car to the dealer so the dealer can scan for diagnostic trouble codes. Please post what the dealer found out especially any trouble codes on the service order.

Might be somewhat related to the frequencies we hear best also. Pavement does make a big difference. I linked to a study in another post / thread on "road" noise (noise level outside of vehicle). Engine noise dominates "noise" at low speed and pavement / tire noise dominates at high speeds. I don't recall that aerodynamic noise ever dominates (maybe at a 100+ mph or so). :) The C-Max has the engine noise cancellation system and pretty good insulation so I don't hear a lot of engine noise.

It would be interesting to list ones actual rear camber as measured during an alignment (to see the variance among C-Maxes), miles on tires, any tire noise (especially at high speeds where it is very apparent), and any cupping on the inside edges.

I agree. My rear camber is LR = -1.4* and RR = -2.0*. Spec. is between -0.9* and -2.4*. IMO, the high negative camber caused my cupping and noise. I suppose Ford is balancing cornering performance with tire wear and has chosen a high rear negative camber spec. I do believe that reducing the negative camber to -0.9* (minimum spec) with the equipment you linked to would have reduced my cupping and extended my "tire life" (noise related) perhaps by 20%. The camber specs for the front are about 1* less negative than the rear. I believe that tire rotation (without reversing the tire on the rim) will likely not prevent cupping. It's just not economical for me to pay to have the tires reversed at say $15 / $20 a tire every 10 k miles or less. I also don't feel like rotating tire every few thousand miles myself to see if more frequent rotation would help. I replaced my OE tires at 48 k miles at Costco and took the car in at about 7.8 k miles on the new tires for rotation. I went back to Costco after another 5.5 k miles and the tire tech said there wasn't enough miles on to rotate again. The tech said 10 k is Ford's schedule (as we know). I've got around 18 k miles with no cupping / noise issues yet on the new tires. Also, just to be clear my tire cupping was actually very minor at 48 k miles but the noise was unbearable especially at very high speeds. If I were just going to drive around town and at moderate speeds, I likely would have lived with the noise.

Rear Junction Box not front?

The Motor Electronics Cooling System pump is not listed as a covered item under the extended coverage Hybrid / Electric Unique Component Coverage warranty. It's that simple. It's probably covered under the 5/60 power train warranty which lists water pump as covered. You'll have to ask Ford why it is not listed. BTW, the heat exchanger (radiator) for the MECS is not listed either. There are likely many parts that are unique to the Hybrid that are not listed and hence not covered by the unique coverage warranty.

Exactly, the reason I got new tires at 48 k miles. I had returned from a 5 k mile cross country trip and tire noise was unbearable on the trip at 75-80 mph. I also rotated the tires but the noise followed the tires to the front. I still had about 4/32 tread depth minimum on the tires but since we were planning another 5 k trip a months later I got new tires. :) My "noticeable" noise started around 25 k miles or so and never improved with tire rotations. I rotate my tires every oil change. It just got worse with more miles. I did have an alignment done at 27 k miles as the car was pulling slightly. IIRC, the rear camber can not be adjusted. I believe the rear camber setting simply causes excessive wear on rear tires that can not be fixed with an alignment. IIRC, there is a post on "fixing" the rear camber to mitigate this camber wear (camber is set to minimum spec). So, IMO tire rotations really don't fix the issue.