plus 3 golfer

I thought you can only get the Sony as an upgrade to an SEL and Energi. If that is the case and since the SEL / Energi have MFT as standard, the TSB does not apply.

Thanks for bringing up the floaters. :redcard: Now I'll be watching them all day. :)

All I can say is the link I provided above shows it as a tri-coat color and so does this link with the message below. I've used Dr Color chip on two vehicles with tri-coat paint and from 3-4 feet small chips blend in very well but up close I could always see the difference in color. Both the vehicles were a white pearl type tri-coat and maybe ruby red will not be as noticeable. I do like Dr Color chip as it works much better than the pens. It appears that the new link I provided has it in a touch up bottle probably with a small brush applicator much like the Ford touch up paint. Choose Size (2013 Ford C-Max Ruby Red Metallic) Note: Tri-coat color chosen. Both a groundcoat and a midcoat of the selected container will be shipped.

The Ruby Red is a tri-coat color and requires base, mid, and clear coat (that's why there is a premium for it). I believe Drcolorchip only supplies the base coat color and is the reason it doesn't match. Also, I doubt the ford paint will be any better since it's sold as one item. This is why I will not buy cars that have tri-coat paint colors anymore (of course once my cars had 100 k+ miles exact matching of paint didn't matter and I used Dr Colorchip). You can't truly touch up a tri-coat paint with one coat and using two touch up pens (base and mid) on a small chip will be difficult to still get a good match because it's virtually impossible to blend with the existing paint. Here's a link where it appears you can buy the base and mid coat touch up pens and give it a try. The price shown as base includes both pens (price is double the single coat paint pen price).

Likely, the same forum owners trying to corner the market. I see no need to "live" in two universes especially when one is significantly more robust than the other. :)

Okay, I drove today between 65 -70 mph in very windy conditions (about 20 -25 mph sustained and with higher gusts) - cross, tail and frontal winds. The car tracks extremely straight even in cross winds with slight pressure on the steering wheel in the direction the wind is coming from. If there is a gust or lessening of the wind, I can feel a correction (like dalebunker describes) which could be called a "twitch" -- wind subsides (eg, going through an underpass), steering wheel still has pressure towards wind direction, EPAS and driver correct when car starts drifting into the lessened wind direction (driver puts pressure on steering wheel with the direction of the wind). Seems to driver like over correction and driver moves steering wheel back to neutral position / slightly back into wind direction so car tracks straight. This is very subtle and virtually not noticeable to me. It amounts to just shifting the pressure on the steering wheel only slightly - probably less than a degree. I wouldn't call it "turning" the steering wheel though. But I would says that with EPAS, there is considerably less effort by the driver to keep the car tracking straight in windy conditions. I would guess the same things could happen when traveling on roads with ruts.

Maybe there's a software adjustment in the EPAS or maybe I'm not sensitive enough to the issue since my previous vehicle had electric assist steering. I'll be taking the C-Max out this afternoon and will experiment with the steering and since we have a wind advisory today with gusts up to 55 mph, I will get a feel as to how good the EPAS really is in strong winds. :)

Does it happen at all speeds? When I turn the steering wheel ever so slightly, the wheels turn. In essence, there is no slop / dead band that I can notice like conventional hydraulic steering might have where you can rock the steering wheel a degree or so back and forth with no effect on the wheels.

I don't have "twitchy steering". For those that do, what air pressure do you run in your tires? I've had electric steering in another vehicle and not had this "twitchy steering". I do run more pressure than the manufacturer recommends. Low air pressure will reduce sidewall stiffness. At high speeds this may lead to a feeling that when slightly turning the steering wheel, the car is not turning. The car will continue to want to go straight due to this additional flexing of the sidewall for a fraction of a second and then begin to turn. If one would sense this and turn the steering wheel slightly more, one has over-corrected for the turn. Higher air pressure will reduce flexing and give more responsive steering. So, see if increasing the tire pressure up to 44 psi has an effect. What I do notice though is that in windy conditions, I have to correct less with my C-MAX than my other vehicle that does not have EPAS.

I have my view with rpm and temperature but use it infrequently now. wamba2000, are you using a/c yet? It seems like there is a 6-8 % hit on FE when I use the a/c at modest ambient temps (low / upper 80's). I wonder what the hit will be when it's gets to 110*F.` I doubt my lifetime will be going up much now since the heat is fast approaching. Friday, I noticed about a 10% hit on FE using a/c during 87 / 88*F ambient, sunny day, 100 miles RT using auto climate control set at 74*F over a similar trip with no a/c. About 1/2 the trip was at 65- mph and virtually the rest between 40 and 55 mph (Gold Canyon - Coolidge). I got 44.8 mpg compared to virtually the same trip in late February with 60+*F ambient and no a/c, when I got 49.7 mpg.

I'm pretty sure I read in a press release when Ford announced the extended warranty that Ford will be "sending out" the update to those without navigation. Does this mean a couple $ USB memory stick sent to the consumer or a letter with instructions on how to download and install the update. This would save Ford a lot of money vs a paying the dealer to update. I can see why Ford extended the warranty on MFT and will pay dealers to install this update given the bad publicity but I wouldn't count on this forever especially for trivial updates. Has anyone seen a copy of the "MFT warranty" referred to in the quoted press articles? Those that already have 3.5 installed from the factory, did Ford provide an addendum to your warranty information when you purchased the vehicle specifically extending the MFT warranty? I searched a while back for a specific warranty on MFT when I first had the clock problem and couldn't find one. There's a license agreement for the MFT and navigation but I couldn't find a specific warranty for MFT. The only thing relevant that I found is what I quoted above in the basic warranty. This will allow Ford to determines what constitutes "service-type improvements and choose whether to pay the dealer to provide such free of charge. BTW, I haven't had the clock issue on my non-nav MFT since I turned off auto update of my phone book (where's the wood to knock on). :)

How about running with no more than 1/3 tank of fuel. That's a weight savings of 9 gallons of gas about 60 pounds or so.

Ford would likely instruct the dealers whether updates to Sync software should be installed free. It's obvious that sync updates are intended to be user installed much like one installs software updates on a PC, phone and so forth. Many times when a car is taken in for service, the dealer may check for sync updates and install them for free. Generally though, unless a TSB is issued and the customer has the problem the TSB fixes, software updates are not automatically included under a manufacturer's 3/36 B2B warranty. Per the Ford Warranty.

Yes, and it's also my understanding that the owner's will have to update to 3.5.1 per the procedures above. If the owner's want the dealer to do the update, the dealer will likely charge for it.

Also, here's how to install the status checker. Again, there is no mention of pushing an aux. button. http://support.ford.com/sync-technology/check-your-sync-software-version-sync-myford-touch

I don't see where these procedures talk about an auxiliary button anywhere in the steps. But of course I haven't tried the procedures.

http://support.ford.com/sync-technology/install-updates-sync-myford-touch

I suggest you read this from tire rack and then decide how much it's worth to spend on light weight wheels vs the FE benefit. You will be lucky to pay off the lightweight wheels (say 18# vs the OEM) with fuel economy savings. A 5% boost in FE might save you 100+ gallons every 100 k miles or $500 at $5.00 per gallon. Remember that the C-Max is a fuel efficient vehicle so the % increase in FE due to less wheel weight will save less $ on a C-Max then on a vehicle that gets 1/2 the FE of the C-Max. Also, lighter wheels generally will result in a harsher ride, not smoother ride. Like, Jus-A-CMax says the OEM Michelin tires are one of the best LRR tire on the market. You can likely find a tire that's maybe a pound lighter in the same size but you could lose in FE vs the Michelin.

What are you trying to improve? Are you planning to take the C-Max to the strip or track? You do understand that it will be extremely expensive to remove enough weight (keeping the same tire size and diameter) to make a noticeable difference to the driver. You'll likely not even feel a performance difference with a 10% weight reduction (say 4 pounds per tire and wheel or 16 pounds total). But you'll like win events against a stock C-Max by shaving a few tenths of second off your times.

There's no line item on my Farmer's statement for the hybrid discount. But my Farmer's auto premium dropped $60 a year by switching from my 2009 Jetta to my C-Max. The agent indicated that almost all was due to a hybrid drivers discount. If I back calculate what the discount might be, it works out to be as much as 15% hybrid discount. The Geico CSA told me that there was no per se hybrid discount but indicated that if hybrid drivers have lower claims then that would be factored into the premium.

I had Farmers and current renewal was $834 / year (2 vehicles) with hybrid discount. I switched to GEICO for $699 per year (no hybrid discount) but now have full glass with less comprehensive deductible and Mechanical Breakdown Insurance (MBI) coverage on the C-Max. So much for the hybrid discount. For full disclosure my homeowners and umbrella are now $80 more than Farmers. So, switching to GEICO saved $56 a year and also allowed me to get full glass which Farmers wanted IIRC about $100 a year for 2 vehicles and to buy MBI on the C-Max. Farmers does not offer MBI. Bottom line: no question ask for a hybrid discount but still shop around. Simply because there is a discount for hybrids doesn't mean that insurance will be the best buy. ;) EDIT: Also, although the "hybrid discount" might be 10%, IIRC it does not apply to all coverages.

I was able to get a quote shortly after buying my C-max from an out of state dealer on the dealer's website. As I recall I had to supply my name, address, and vin (maybe mileage too) to get an email quote. I believe I could have then purchased it with a CC. The only issue I can recall is that if you wanted to cancel within the stipulations of the agreement, you had to do it through the dealer that sold the contract to you unless the dealer was no longer in business. I did commit to Geico. So, we will see how it works out.

Unfortunately, there are those who don't believe this (or understand closed loop operation) and will still spend significant $ to buy "low" restriction filters (oiled or not) for their vehicles believing FE will increase. Also, to be clear, the possible loss of peak power due to intake restriction is hypothetical for virtually modern cars since the air box, intake, and filter are not restrictive even at peak power (but for a clogged filter). There have been plenty of dynos run using a low restriction air filter vs an OEM air filter vs different intakes, air box and so forth on a modern stock car and there is virtually no perceivable performance benefit from modding the intake but for "sound" - some like to hear that engine / turbo on hard acceleration. :) The OEM filter and air box are designed appropriately and there is no benefit to modify intakes or filters on a stock car. If one is worried about air flow restriction from a dirty filter buy a filter-minder like this one and install on your air box. One will likely get a better return from a filter-minder than a K&N filter as the air filter change interval of 30 k miles on the Ford C-Max is likely conservative.

When shutting downing any car including my C-MAX, I always step on the brake, shift into park, put the emergency brake on, and then turn the car off. My foot is always on the brake until I put the emergency brake on and then generally off the brake when I push the button.

If your car is propelled in the opposite direction from the gearshift indication, you should file a complaint with NHTSA. This seems to be a serious safety issue.