plus 3 golfer

This couldn't be further from the truth with the Hybrid (can't speak to the Energi). If the engine is on, the rpm increase significantly if one shifts to L. If you continue to drive in L, the rpm remains higher than in D. If the engine is not running and one shifts to L, the transmission engages the engine and rpm goes from zero to XXXX depending on speed. L is for "engine braking" not "regenerative braking". Also, CVT transmissions can be held in fixed set point gear ratios which in effect changes the gear ratio. Many CVT transmissions employ this with "manual shift mode". This is what is happening when on shifts to L in the Hybrid. The workshop manual shows no difference for L for the Hybrid or Energi: I suggest you set up MyView to rpm and watch and listen to the engine to see if rpm increases when you shift to L in your Energi.

One needs to look on the pump. Most states require a sticker that says may contain up to X% ethanol. IIRC, in reading AZ gasoline specs in the past, there was no distinction made between regular and premium gas with regards to oxygenated fuel program requirements.

Best FE is different than most efficient HEV operation. The HEV should be controlled to maximize HEV efficiency which generally maximizes FE. The HEV control logic doesn't know how one is going to drive the vehicle. So, it should run the engine at the most efficient point on the Brake Specific Fuel Consumption curve given the conditions at that time. What I see is that when operating between about 63-66 mph, the FE is significantly better than operating at say 70 mph (more FE difference than caused by the reduced aerodynamic drag due to the speed difference). So, the sweet spot reference for me is the maximum speed band where the HEV operation is maximized (operating at the engine "sweet spot" on the BSFC to propel the car and to charge the batteries and still allow switch over to EV operation). This appears to be around 63-66 mph. I certainly get better FE at 55, 45, and 35 mph speeds than the "sweet spot" speed but that is likely due to significantly reduced aerodynamic drag since the vehicle should still be operating near the BSFC sweet spot and also under EV mode given the same conditions as the sweet spot speed. Above the sweet spot speed, the engine may have to start operating outside the BSFC sweet spot AND EV mode very rarely occurs if at all. Bottom line: one cannot outwit physics but can take advantage of it. If time is not a factor, driving below the sweet spot speed will yield better FE all other things being the same. The only other factor I can think of that might come into play is the operation of the active grille shutters which affects aerodynamic drag. So, the degree to which the shutters may be open or closed at various speeds around the sweet spot speed could affect FE around those speeds such that under certain conditions one might see lower FE say at 60 mph than 63 mph due to changes in aerodynamic drag caused by shutter operations (speed is one of the variables used to control the shutters). For example, once the car is at operating temperature, more speed will increase air flow through the grille which could reduce coolant temperature and could cause the shutters to close a few notches from an otherwise more open position and thus improve aerodynamics and FE.

Series, split, and parallel refers to the path of the power distribution from the engine. This is my interpretation (although maybe wrong). :) : Series - speed is zero and engine is on. Split - Positive - engine is on, engine power is split between charging battery via the generator and driving the car Split - Negative - engine is on, engine power is split between the generator consuming power and driving the car Parallel - Generator is stopped (not spinning), engine power and battery assist power (traction motor) driving vehicle. I believe this is what is seen when high speed cruising and mpg is high. Usually battery would need to be near full charge, otherwise one would likely be in split positive. Also, I can see how the electric power steering pump statement under the electric mode might imply that a different type of steering is used in other modes. But nowhere does it say a hydraulic system is used. From page 147 of the pdf (note my bolded text):

For those not aware, this is described in the OBDII Theory and Operation available here. For anyone that wants to understand the C-Max operation it's a good 154 page read. ;) Here is the direct link to the pdf. The propulsion mode described above starts at page 8.

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I bought the Oxford White for virtually the same reasons. The Platinum does look nice but having owned two other tri-coat white variants, I will not spend the extra for tri-coat when one buys the car and then spend more again when one has to get it touched up professionally. I have tried touching up tri-coat paint chips with many types of after market touch up kits (which usually only supply the base coat) but the paint never matched. From 3-4 feet it's acceptable but any closer and one can easily pick out the mismatched paint. I've also had large areas resprayed professionally (after son had two minor collisions) and you could always see the difference from an OE painted tri-coat body panel and an after-market tri-coat painted panel. BTW, I am a fan of the clear-bra film albeit I paid about $500 for the installation. If I owned a tri-coat colored car, planned on long term ownership, and freeway driving (at normal freeway speeds ;)), I'd recommend investing in a clear-bra. IMHO, one either pays upfront for protection or pays when one sells the car either with a respray of the front end or lower resale value due to front end chips.

Ah NO, I guess a true hyper-miler might try to "anticipate" the effect of wind on FE before a trip and maybe adjust their speed, route, and so forth. :) If I worried about hits to FE on anticipated trips, I might just not go. So, lets see if I don't go, my FE for that anticipated trip would be 0 miles / 0 gallons = ???? MPG I guess that's better than any positive FE number had I gone on the trip. :confused: My plan is to "drive more and worry less" (about the direction of the wind, temperature, use of AC and all other variables that affect FE).

Set up My View in the right display for the Climate and Other usage screen and then run your tests again and see what the average usage readings are for both tests. It's hard to believe that the other usage (which should just be the blower motor) jumps up enough to lower your FE by over 10%. About what speed is the blower setting when climate is on but ac is off? Also, how many miles are you running these tests for? and is the battery level the same on both tests?

Exactly, as I said in another thread. "Short trips kill mpg" which is especially noticeable the colder the temperature is since the car (including powertrain, differential, wheel bearings, and tires) takes longer (if ever) to reach efficient operating temperature. Once the car is at operating temperature, the biggest effect ambient temperature has on the car is from air pressure. Cold air is more dense and thus the aerodynamic drag on a car is greater in colder air than warmer air. The car has to "plow" through heavier air when it's cold. For example, the density of air at 0 F, 40 F and 70 F is 1.3383, 1.2726, and 1.2005 kg/m^3. So, air is 11.5% more dense at 0 F than 70 F, 6.0% more dense at 0 F than 40 F, and 5.2% more dense at 40 F than 70 F. Since aerodynamic drag is directly proportional to air density, aerodynamic drag increases by the same ratios. My estimates indicate that the drag effect on FE would be 4.5 - 8.5% from 0 F - 70 F and 2.5 % to 4.5 % from 40 F to 70 F depending on speed. So, if one was getting 40 mpg (on a warmed up car) at 40 F and the ambient is now 70 F, ones FE might increase 1.0 - 1.8 mpg due to less dense air.

When I look at the workshop manual for removal of the grille shutters, there are three connectors shown which appear to be accessed from below and which would require the belly cover to be removed. I cannot see the connectors when I look down from the top. The pic shows the grill cover connector to be the middle of three connectors (which I assume are the ones we are talking about). I don't believe they will be hard to find once the cover is removed. If one looks at the belly cover, there are "slots" in the cover for air outflow. There are also vertical rubber / plastic "flaps" that extend downward that are mounted near each front tire as if to shield the underside / "slots" from getting sprayed by water from the tires and possibly into the slot openings. So, it makes me wonder if that's how water enters that area or is it from the front grille openings. I could certainly see how a car wash with undercarriage washing could saturate the area above the belly cover.

Seems impractical. I prefer a nuclear reactor in my home and car rather than being subject to the utility for use of my car as a power source. In AZ, one utility is already balking on "net metering" for solar PV.

flatbat, read this thread and ask the dealer to check the connectors referenced in the post. IMHO, the two TSB (including the new DC/DC converter software update) likely will only mask the "real" problem.

I looked up the connectors in the workshop manual. A few observations: 1) The three connectors appear to be located very close to each other in the left front of the car. It would be nice to examine exactly how water could reach these connectors. 2) C144 is a 12 wire connector. Pins 9-12 carry switched positive and ground from the Body Control Module to the fog lamps (not standard on the SE). The headlamp switch provides the signal to the BCM to operate the fog lamp relay. 1-8 are for the park assist sensors (not standard on SE and SEL). 3) C140 is a 4 wire connector. Pins 1-2 are positive (hot all the time) and ground to the coolant pump. Pins 3-4 are positive and ground to the brake vacuum pump. 4) C1651 is a 3 pin connector for the active grill shutters - positive (hot in start and run), ground, and control. So, if the moisture is causing a path to ground and subsequent drain of the 12 V battery, I would believe that a circuit would need to be hot all the time and / or the drain is causing a module to remain active when it should be asleep. Second, the battery issue appears to be more prevalent on the SE model. Of all the possible explanations of what is causing a dead battery, moisture may be the most plausible one. The DC/DC converter fix simply provides a higher initial charge level on shutdown and the display fix apparently shuts the display down quicker. Both could mask the moisture issue by increasing the time until a dead battery. So, the next question is why do the failures appear more prevalent in the SE model. Could it be the location of the connectors relative to the LH fog lamp assembly . Is it possible that the LH fog lamp assembly blocks water from reaching the connectors. If the new connectors have a "better" water seal, it would be beneficial to find out when the production change occurred. The reason is that those who have "old" connectors will evidently be subject to a dead battery for the life of the car. If Ford does not issue a recall, then connector repairs after the warranty expires will likely not be covered by Ford. Anyways just some info and food for thought.

Is this the 1st forum you've ever participated in???? I assume it is based on the sum total of your 11 posts - 4 of which are identical, irrelevant cross-posts in four different treads and add no value to the content, at three are irrational rants and the others are like "foam on beer" - they occupy space and add little value (please no debate on the value of the head on beer). Also, even if I knew someone from Ford that I thought might know about the issue, why would I give their contact info to you or anyone. If you are not satisfied with your Energi, you have recourse which I suggested to you above (which you thought was useless). I guarantee that will get Ford's attention and a contact.

Have you had the "issue"? If not, you have no beef. If yes and you can't get it resolved to your satisfaction, contact any attorney for advice. It's quite simple.

Yes, there's a nut on the bottom of the antenna base that needs to be removed from inside the car. But the headliner does not look difficult to completely remove. I can't tell whether one needs to completely remove everything to get to the nut or if there's enough room / flexibility in the headliner such that one can just drop the back of the headliner and reach the nut and connector by removing stuff holding the back up - maybe the rear hand holds and back pillar trim covers.

The antenna is the AM/FM/Satellite radio antenna not GPS.

The generator is the starter motor for ICE and is powered by the HV battery pack. So, I doubt ICE can be started, if the HV battery pack is "dead". In other words, you likely won't be able to disconnect the HV battery from the hybrid system and drive ICE like a normal vehicle since there appears to be no way to start ICE should one not want to spend $$ to replace a failed pack.

I have 3.1.3. So you don't see: Alt. xxxx? Also, put the coordinates of both into a map program and see which is closer to the actual place you are at. Usually, the C-Max gps is within 1/2 mile (not very good) and the elevation is off by 100 feet or more. My Garmin Is usually within 20 feet of elevation markers.

To find "Where am I" on the MFT screen, hit the settings button, help, and then where am I. The gps coordinates are displayed along with elevation. Problem in they are wrong every time I check. Currently, I'm at home and the C-Max GPS coordinates put me 50 miles east of where I am. My Garmin GPS coordinates put me on my lot. Funny thing is my clock has been okay for over a week until I started playing around with MFT. Just a crappy, crappy, system. I guess I should complain to the Ford / dealer about the GPS being wrong as I did about the clock.

I use my Garmin GPS for elevation (Where am I) and an appropriate topo map loaded on an SD card in addition to the normal Garmin City Navigator Map. Thus, as I drive, I see contour (elevation) lines on the navigation map. I have 24k topo maps (which show 20 foot contour lines) for most of the US.

I believe the advertising assessments are regionalized. I paid $427 in Dec. 2012. Fuel was $49.24.

Here's a good video on the Display Mode. The MyView setup starts about the 3:41