stolenmoment

Can you post a link? My camera looks like it stared into the Sun for too long.

Thanks! I don't have the facilities or the shoulders and knees to do it myself. I do suspect that the right rear shock mount is gone, given the nasty clatter over each bump.

My 2013 still has the original suspension, and something in the right rear has broken (wrote about this earlier), so I'm about to take it into the dealer to get all this fixed/replaced. My question is, does the car have just shocks, or does it also have McPherson struts (doesn't every car? every FWD car?), so what do I tell the clerk when I get the work done, so I don't sound like a dummy and get taken? Thanks!

The HVB is what runs the two electric motors that conspire to start the ICE and to get ICE torque to the wheels, remember? The 12v battery is just for the accessories and the power relay that lets juice out of the HVB. If the HVB is totally dead, your car is bricked. But there's a long way to go from "can't run on battery for long" and "not enough battery to start the ICE".

This *is* hybrid mode. What happens when you plug it in? Does it charge?

Remember, the guess-o-meter is based on your recent driving. If you have a lead foot, it might think that you only have eight miles of juice. Follow cr08's instructions, that will get to what you really have available.

Additionally, slowing down from highways speeds can generate a few percent of charge. My son went to college in Vermont, and it was really fun to climb the hills with gas, then charge the battery rolling downhill. You can get out of Hybrid mode this way: charge it going downhill, park it, turn it off, and when you turn it back on, it might have enough charge to go into EV Later mode, from which you can recharge as you go. I generally arrived with a fully-charged battery, even after driving in EV mode on the flats. "Recharge as you go": watch the battery percent in the Settings screen, remember what it was when you last hit EV Later. If it's higher than that, cycle the mode button three times to reset the target charge level.

The car companies are panicing because EVs have much lower repair costs than ICE vehicles, so they see the dealer+shop incomes drop accordingly, and they're reworking the warranties to keep them profitable.

Right, the cabin heater is a resistance heater and eats the battery, cuts range down by perhaps half on days like this in New England. Try the test again, as above: charge to 100% (percentage shown on the big screen), EV mode, heater off (you'll survive the chill), seat heater off, run in EV-only mode, no highways, until it drops into Hybrid, park and turn the car off. The left-hand screen will briefly show kWh used in this trip, that's your current usable battery capacity. Yes, "EV mode not available" is displayed when the battery is below the hybrid-only threshhold. The displayed range (guess-o-meter) is based on recent driving activity, so it's useless for the first couple of trips while it observes your driving style. I don't use the cabin heater on my Energi unless I have to, or if I'm going on the highway (and running the gas motor) anyway. The seat heater and gloves work just fine. But, I'm a fanatic.

My 2013 Energi's fuel pump is pretty loud, but the noise clearly comes from the back end of the car. The noise tracks the fuel consumption directly.

The dealer broke mine when they did the door latch recall work. They immediately fixed it with no fuss.

I had a similar "adventure", I managed to pull a K-turn by backing up (down the hill), but there is only the one way in to where I was going. I have alternatives, so all was not lost. Scary, trying to climb the hill, speedo says 10mph, but we're not moving.

sigh and my 2013 Energi tranny is going strong. The suspension, on the other hand, needs replacement. Badly. But it's had ten years of bad roads, so there you go.

So, the TCU contains both the phone and bluetooth radios? That would suck, I take phone calls all the time and the car reads (most) text messages to me. I also have a 2013, and I've gotten used to losing the phone network (I never upgraded), but losing bluetooth would really annoy me.

Both modes recharge from slowing down or going downhill, but you can play games with the accelerator when the motor is going to recharge ever so slowly; learn to glance at the up/down arrows on the dash. I always drive in L to give me more control over that sort of thing. EV auto has different thresholds for starting the engine, and will do that if you floor it. I live near a busy traffic circle, so I have to goose the car just to enter, which will always start the motor. One of the "My View" modes has the thresholds displayed if you want to get a feel for this. I want a more customized "My View" mode that shows me more details: it should turn on the tach whenever the motor's running. But, I'm a programmer and we all have a bit of OCD.

Right, when it's depleted, the battery switches to showing only how much of the hybrid range of the battery is filled. That said, I have been able to charge the battery back up into the EV-only range by taking a long downhill run and parking at the bottom, turning the car off. When I turn it on again, it had enough charge that I can switch to EV-later and play our OCD games to get more charge. When it's switched to EV-later mode, it won't deplete down into hybrid-only mode. EV-later mode operates as a "normal" hybrid, only with the target charge whatever the charge was when you switched into EV-later mode. Some of us (*ahem*) pay attention to the charge numbers and rotate from EV-later around and back (tap the button three times) to nudge the target up. Hilly terrain (gas uphill, recharge downhill) and decelerating from highway speed (stoplight, offramp) can garner a few percent of charge at a time, leaving more charge in the battery for the "last mile" once you're off the highway or onto the flat.

Hmm.. given the geometry of keys on belt ring and phone in pocket, that's a possibility. Thanks!

Busted rear shock mount was my first thought as well, I've certainly got that, but my rattle is absolutely correlated with bumps and does not go away at 35mph like yours does. I'm waiting for when I can be without my car for the duration...

I'm intermittently getting "No key in car" when I try to start my 2013 Energi. It eventually works, and behaves better for a while after that. Any idea for a fix? Just replace the battery in the fob? The remote works fine from at least 20 yards or so which makes me think that's not the problem. Thanks!

I just got a new phone (pixel 6, if that matters) and when I play podcasts via bluetooth, the audio is fine, but the title and such no longer show up on the car's screen. I expect it'll be some setting on the phone, even though it's the same podcast player, but I'm hoping that somebody here has the answer. My car is a 2013 Energi, stock Sync 2. I did find some online help that said using AVRCP 1.4 (instead of the default 1.5) helped some people, but not my case. Trying 1.6 didn't help, and 1.3 wouldn't even connect.

A truly bizarre result! Hasn't happened on my 2013 Energi (yet?), but I only fill it every couple of months.

I also find that I don't miss it on my 2013 Energi. The timed charge stuff was flaky (it worked for a while), but these things don't pull much juice in the first place.

Isn't it easier to refill the reservoir when the rear sprayer stops working? -- NOT a mechanic!

Thanks very much!

My 2013 Energi just started making a clunking noise in the right rear when I hit any sort of bump, even small ones. I'm guessing that something has broken or come apart in the suspension. My question is: is the CMax suspension so weird that I should take it to the dealer, or should my local (trusted!) non-dealer repair shop be able to handle it?