cr08

Not that I'm aware of on the stock keyfobs. There should be a specific button specifically for the remote start function if you have the correct keyfob. This is the one I have with my 2013. Not sure if they've changed them in newer model years. That top button is for the remote start: FLMPEPS6-F-MAIN2.jpg (1000×1125) (northcoastkeyless.com) If you didn't get a fob with the remote start button, you may want to review the settings in the IPC menu (left screen in gauge cluster). There should be options for remote start settings in there. If those show for you, that's a good sign the vehicle is configured for it, just need to get the right fob. (Though in theory if you have the option in MFM it should be a given as well I think the Energi's had it standard. But the settings in the dash will 100% confirm the availability via keyfob)

I just wish a proper fix for this was implemented. I'd love a functioning ANC system but definitely not dealing with the even occasional deafening drone. Have had mine disconnected for some time now myself. Now that ForScan offers module firmware updates as a tool, I wonder if the DACMC got any worthy updates over the years to sort this out?

Incorrect. There's a second coolant system but it is purely for the inverter and has a MUCH smaller coolant tank. And I can't imagine a reason why that shouldn't be changed at the same time the ICE coolant is done as well.

One thing to keep in mind is if the ICE -JUST- started and is cold, the car is going to prefer to let it idle and warm up without a load before it has it contributing to propulsion of the vehicle. Cases that will override this are heavier acceleration or low HVB level as examples. But under mild to moderate accelerator application it will have the electric motor do the lions share of acceleration until the ICE is ready to go (read: All the normal cold start emissions checks are done, O2 sensors are happy, etc..)

I will say this has been my experience in the C-Max as well in winter weather. I live in a climate where we don't get a ton of winter precip that sticks or makes things treacherous to I just stick with all seasons year round. Not worth it to spend on winter tires when I'd make use of them maybe a week max a year if we're (un)lucky. But it's worked well for me. Straight snow I've never had traction issues, slush is about the same. Ice is the worst we deal with here (urban heat island, rollercoaster temps, and snow easily melting and refreezing) and given the conditions the one really good thing I have to say is I've found the C-Max does a damn good job of keeping you in the direction you want to go and the heavy back end tends to stay in line REAL well. And it's always felt like the traction control kicks in quite subtly and does what it needs to when it starts to lose grip. We have one particular spot in our subdivision where the turn onto a side street ALWAYS has ice and is never treated and it's right in the path of the turn. It's slow enough that it's fun to try and get the car to kick out a bit there and like clockwork every time the back end just grips and gets back in line. So the short summary of all that is I've personally been very pleased with winter weather handling of my C-Max here even on the all seasons (in comparison, the stock Energy Savers were the WORST by a mile).

A bit late of a response, but no. You cannot drive away just on the remote start function alone. That would be a HUGE safety/security risk. You will need to use your key as you would normally to 'start' the vehicle and it'll take over from the remote start. I imagine the message you see is just a minor glitch but ultimately it's telling you what I mentioned here. EDIT: Even for those of us with push-button/keyless start, we need to start the car normally to drive it, using the exact directions as indicated on the dash in your picture. It won't permit driving away with just the remote start active even though technically it should be able to see the key inside the cabin. This isn't a Tesla.

Unfortunately what you are intending to do would be useless and probably difficult or impossible to do given the vehicle has been designed with no belt driven accessories in mind off the ICE. To put it simply: The car will simply not operate without a working HVB. Even in a degraded mode, as long as it is able to supply some power and the vehicle doesn't see an issue with it otherwise (which would likely prevent the car from operating at all), all associated systems should function as well. This includes some level of EV propulsion, A/C compressor usage, resistive heating (for Energi models), and a working DC-DC converter and operation there. So if the car can run and drive, the DC-DC converter should be supplying 12V power and charging the 12V battery while the car is 'on'. Those who claim a link between dying 12V batteries and degraded HVB's (again, if it was 'dead' they'd know it as the car wouldn't run) miss so many other potential and more likely culprits. Not one of which is simply an aging 12V battery or one not properly maintained due to people not getting the TSB's done that have been implemented over the years to cover 12V drain and charging concerns. Also not resetting the battery age in the vehicle when replacing as it WILL affect charging behavior. And lastly a low 12V battery causing phantom issues in random modules around the car as a result, and it could all tie back to the previous points. I should note I did see the original post and comments on the FB group where this thought process originated and to be 100% frank I trust the info from a VERY small list of people over there and the other 90% or so I wouldn't trust at all. Most of the stuff posted there could really stand to have an FAQ made by someone who actually knows the vehicle and has accurate info and just spam it on every new post someone makes.

Been a hot minute since I've been on this forum and looks like the Energi forum is long gone. Curious if anyone still has the CSV file for the Torque app for all the Ford hybrid/Energi PIDs that had been primarily floating around on the Energi forum? Been scouring this one but haven't found anything useful. And outside of this forum it seems like it wasn't really shared around much anywhere else.

Curious if anyone else has run into this to potentially see if this is a known issue or just my random luck. Long story made short I normally don't use the washer fluid a lot throughout the year. Noticed the other day when topping off the tank that I leaked a good portion of what I put in on the ground. It seems like wherever the leak is at is high up enough as it still retains enough for a good amount of uses including the rear washer. So it makes me curious where exactly it is leaking at. I looked into the service manual and it looks like a major job to get to which I probably will not do myself, this is more a curiosity than anything. I intend to take it in this weekend to get some other work done and have this looked at as well.

Also I wouldn't trust putting anything other than Ford recommended fluid in the eCVT. Since this fluid comes in direct contact with the motor windings for cooling purposes, anything that can potentially eat away at the enamel on the wiring WILL eventually cause shorts in the motor windings.

I'll just leave my final response to this wall of text as 'to each his own'. I've already explained my uses above. For me it is worth the relatively small cost to keep the built in nav updated once a year or every other year. I actually quite enjoy using the Sync system, voice commands and all. 3.8 and 3.10 have made it plenty usable and the voice commands work every time. YMMV though but for me it just works.

Waze has always been great for me especially when dealing with unusual traffic. Even with an active Traffic subscription with Sirius, the nav doesn't seem to take advantage of it other than an OCCASIONAL alert along the way when an occurrence is up ahead on the route. But still not enough of a benefit in my personal use cases to use it over the built in nav. Built in nav for road trips: Traffic and other issues aren't that big of a deal as any reroute is going to likely be impossible or add more time than the slowdown. Short trips to unfamiliar locations in town: Waze or Google Maps. More updated info and reroute around traffic which matters more in the city.

Personally I much rather use the built in nav especially on longer road trips rather than tying up my phone, letting it cook itself running nav plus whatever else, etc.. The ~$50 eBay cost every other year or even once a year is worth it IMHO. Plus having accurate speed limit displays is nice, not to mention at least in my neck of the woods there has been a lot of new construction and new roads lately. If I had Android Auto available I would readily change my mind but without any easy way with Sync 2 to fully integrate a phone's nav into the audio system, the convenience of the built in nav is worth it to me to do the regular updates.

Yep. Noticed this morning they had them already at greatly lowered prices on eBay. Will definitely be picking one up before our road trip in May.

Yep. There is a lumbar section to the heated seats.

Have them or either you check the passenger side headliner. The washer fluid hoses for the hatch run back there along the passenger side. This hasn't been a TOO common occurrence but the few people who have had water intrusion issues with the battery seem to have had this line leak and cause it.

Wild ass guess from me but sounds like the dealer didn't do their job if they weren't able to pull any codes and couldn't do any further diagnosing. A yellow wrench scenario, at ABSOLUTE minimum, should have some 'pending' codes after the fact if not full blown stored DTC's. Plus 3 Golfer brought up all very good points especially the suggestion to use an OBD dongle and the ForScan app for some potential diagnosing on your end. If that's not immediately available, even having a place like Autozone try to pull codes may not be a bad idea. At the very least if a generic off the shelf scantool can pull some codes where the dealer couldn't, it will at least provide even a tiny bit of direction on what is going on.

Funny enough I am perfectly happy with the available heat and often leave mine set on 5 any time the temps are about 35 or below. I actually complain about the lack of heat out of the seats in my brother's Crosstrek that only seems to put out about the equivalent of 1 or 2 at best in the C-Max when those are set to their High setting.

The street names you should be able to do naturally by voice like "one hundred and thirty first". It's just the street number it is very particular with. Entering by hand should be able to just start putting "131" and hit the little button next to it to get a list of street names its narrowed down if it hasn't gotten you down to one street name automatically.

Essentially the latch wasn't aligned properly on some vehicles so it never registered as closed so much like any other vehicle when a door is left ajar it could cause a decent battery drain when off. Not too bad a fix if memory serves. Just need a mechanic who knows the TSB and just realign the hatch/latch system.

Also going through the whole rigmarole of 'shutting things off' before you exit the vehicle is a bit redundant and useless. These aren't old vehicles with dumb electronics and relays that can occasionally 'stick'. Everything's operated and communicated electronically. Right off the bat, 'turning off' the radio is just muting/pausing the media playback and nothing else. All the various modules are still running and will continue to turn off/on as needed depending on the car's operation. The most common battery drain concerns have been the automatic tailgate with a known fix and the obvious radio being unresponsive. The latter is an unfortunate bug but simple enough that you start seeing it becoming wholly unresponsive, pull the fuses for it and be done with it for a while. As also mentioned by jestevens, 5 years is a pretty good run for a 12V battery and it may just be up for replacement. To jump back to the HVB drain concern by homestead, please re-read Plus 3 Golfer's post right above yours. This is in most cases normal. It is just the battery settling as its own temperature drops. Driving and a regular charge/discharge of the HVB will heat it up and as a result will naturally raise its voltage. After it settles back to ambient temps that voltage will drop. Gauging charge level on ANY battery is nothing fancy, it is just reading the voltage and knowing the normal operating range of that battery style and saying 'Here at xx.xx volts is at xx% per this graph'.

Essentially you have to adjust your way of thinking in reverse. To save on processing resources, it is easier for the system to work backwards and narrow down address possibilities. Start with the city and state and ask for the street name. It will assume to only search the input street name in the selected city and state. Once the street name is confirmed, ask for the street number which will then assume to look just at that previously set street name, city, and state. The other option is to simply input the address by voice which will naturally work in the forward direction. Not too difficult once you know what it is looking for too. Starting from the home screen I generally just go "Navigation. Destination. Street Address." in one phrase and clear brief pauses between commands. It'll then do the shpiel of asking for the address. Then as simple as "1. 2. 3. Main St. Columbus." as an example. Doesn't allow for "one twenty three" or "one hundred twenty three" but specifically wants "one two three".

Regen braking is where the brake pads are not doing any of the braking, pads not touching the rotors. It is up to the traction motor that normally propels the car to now act as a generator, creating a braking force itself, and putting that energy back into the battery. Friction braking is as it sounds. That is when the brake pads are being used. The brake coach focuses on just the regen braking. So the higher the score, the more braking is done via regen vs friction brakes. As far as best practice I couldn't say definitively. Efficiency wise it is best to try and max that braking score at all times. If rust does become an actual issue, if it was me I'd take every now and then and just do a normal but consistent braking pass in neutral. Doing it in neutral completely disables regen so it will all be on the friction brakes like a non-hybrid so it should scrape off the surface rust pretty effectively. From my experience with my Energi, there is a noticable effect on brake feel when it has or is raining and I've taken to occasionally doing the above neutral brake in those conditions otherwise when the car gets down to under 5mph and the friction brakes kick in they grab pretty harshly.

So to clarify between the hybrid and Energi is the situation is the same. If the battery is full on either one in L it'll spin up the engine to brake the vehicle. Obviously with the Energi you have a lot more room in the battery to work with. The other bit that jdbob somewhat alluded to is if the engine is cold and needs to enter the cold start warm up mode, it will do in L, burning gas in the process. Once it is warmed and can run normally it'll spin but burn no gas. Hybrids theoretically should never have this issue or run into it very little. Those of us with Energi's will have a higher chance of experiencing this with ICE runtime being much less depending on the scenario.

Or simply brake in neutral. No need to hard brake at all to overcome regen.