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At least in mine when it did it, it didn't feel like a 'bounce back' but it stopped at its set limit and dropped a little on its own once the motor stopped. I may try resetting the travel limit on it though.

I noticed this as well on my 2013 but it's only really happened once and on a decent incline and only a few inches of drop. Not exactly sure the cause myself but curious. At least in my case the struts seem to behave normally otherwise. I should also note that I exclusively use the power options on the liftgate. I've never manually opened/closed it.

Technically you should be able to. All that's involved with the newer vehicles from the factory is a simple splitter system. Roof antenna covers both AM/FM radio and GPS and brings it back on one line and splits off the signals behind the APIM/ACM. But it's likely going to be extra work. I've looked into doing this before on the C-Max specifically and it looks like the actual splitter harness runs all the way to the driver side corner of the dash so would probably be a bit of a headache. If you're worried about the GPS receiver reliability, there have been some recommended that are OEM modules from other vehicles and can be placed under the center dash cover just as easily as the cheap 3rd party recommendations. Unfortunately I don't have the info on those at the moment. EDIT: Re-read your post a little more: No, the stock 2013 GPSM cannot be used with Sync 3. The APIM is not programmed to read from that data source and it cannot be wired into the APIM as the connections only provide CAN data and not the raw GPS signal that APIM is requiring on the antenna feed. Also the 2013 GPSM is in the dash right above the IPC. The comment I made originally was under the assumption you wanted to upgrade to the all-in-one sharkfin style antennas on some newer Ford's that have the combined GPS/AM/FM/Sirius antennas.

Can't tell front or rear. Doesn't seem to vary with speed best I can tell but will vary slightly in volume based on load. I'm very aware of the rusting as it is quite obvious in noise after it rains and I'll often kick it into neutral for that exact reason on the first few stops to knock off the rust but there's still a slight grinding noise despite that. Sadly I don't have a jack or the space to really do checks like that myself. Though I think at some point I'm gonna see if I can go to an empty lot and have someone drive the car while I walk along side with my phone to get a clearer recording of my own. I did get my car back and here's the update: Ultimately I had to ride along with a tech to try and replicate it and had to find a good spot in a plaza nearby that I could drive up next to a building and it is noticeable under low speeds too. Was eventually able to point it out to the tech and he basically indicated it was brakes and a normal slight surface scraping even under no use. Not sure HOW much to believe it but the more I hear it the more I am leaning towards it is -some- form of brake related noise. And I do know the front brakes have never been touched in the 4 years/40k miles I've had the car. Just the rears were done, rotors and all. Nothing's been mentioned -yet- on the checkups that the fronts are bad or worn down and braking has been fine. I'm coming to the conclusion that under the assumption that even if the transmission starts to misbehave with the bearing issue it does take quite a while for it to start actually being an issue, I am probably going to be safe. Got 2 years left on my loan, after which I plan to build up a repair/trade-in fund. With my job being work from home for the foreseeable future my average mileage is putting me at only 10k miles over 2 years time (which should put me at 90-95k on the odometer). And at the current market value of these cars I can probably upgrade at that 2 year mark to a newer model for pretty cheap if I chose to do so. But most likely I'll drive this one til the proverbial wheels fall off.

Latest update: Door handle looks like it's gonna have to be replaced and I'm skipping on that since the cost from the dealer quoted is about $500. That's been a VERY minor issue. Worst case I'll try the documented TSB when I get the car back that's essentially removing the handle and cleaning/drying the inside and there's some kind of sealant used too. Seemed like an easy enough DIY job last I looked at it. Noise: So far they haven't been able to replicate/hear it. Service advisor's going to bat for me though and is getting another tech on it to try and figure it out. So I'm happy about that. Sadly that means no real substantial news yet.

Managed to pull this from the workshop manual CD I have for my 2013. It does have the procedure for drain/fill/bleeding the hybrid coolant system. Also included the listed procedures for trans fluid drain and fill. So the procedures are there. It may be terminology throwing people for a loop. As noted, the inverter cooling system has nothing to do with the HVB cooling. So wouldn't be surprised if someone not familiar with the vehicle is unaware of the second cooling system or how to work on it. EDIT: Added the ICE coolant procedures as well just for completeness. 2013_cmax_hybridcoolantdrainfill.pdf 2013_cmax_transdrainfill.pdf 2013_cmax_ICEcoolantdrainfill.pdf

Was actually a piece of cake. I did get mine pre-programmed for my C-Max however. I think that is honestly the more challenging part if you plan to do it yourself. DanMC85 over on the 2gfusion forums has a service he offers to provide the correct programming necessary if you want to go the full DIY route: Sync 3 Programming (via Email) by DanMc85 Basically it's just adjusting configuration bits to tell the APIM what vehicle and options it has to talk to now. Installation took me less than half an hour, maybe closer to 20 minutes? Granted I have viewed the installation videos a number of times. This is a good video going over the process. It's for the Escape but since the interior is near identical, it's a good analogue: (90) Ford Escape - SYNC 3 Upgrade Installation - YouTube Only thing that is not working out of the gate even with the programming is the automatic parallel parking feature. That's a known issue on older vehicle upgrades. The PAM (Parking Aid Module) needs updated. The actual parking sensors and beeps still work however. In my 4 years of ownership I've never had the option to use the parallel parking feature so it's not a huge loss for me. There's also a very minor issue due to a) mine being an older Sync 3 APIM and b) having updated to a newer 3.4 version, when the headlamps are in auto mode and the ambient light quickly changes and dims the interior lights, the APIM screen flickers when it dims. Some incompatibility with the lighting data sent over the CANbus if I understand things correctly. For me its not really that distracting. This one I don't think there's a fix for short of sticking with one of the earlier Sync 3 updates that still has an auto brightness toggle for Sync itself that can be turned off to avoid it (I think 3.4.19101 is the latest with this?). Newer versions remove it and have auto brightness turned on by default. Other than those it's 100% functional. Even the energy flow display and charge settings are kept. MyFordMobile still works. On screen climate controls disappeared on the latest update but that's a known thing and I just need to flip literally one bit in the AsBuilt data when I get the car back to re-enable it.

Yeah, mine happened well after that. No other work or changes were made around that time. Just stopped working and on the drivers door only. Sensors work in all the other doors perfectly. I do recall seeing a TSB about just needing to disassemble and clean/use some sealant on the inside of the handle. Didn't bring that up, just mentioned the drivers door being the lone one out that stopped working. So we'll see on that one. Not a HUGE issue so if it's more than that like needing parts replaced I'll likely just leave it as is. No new info otherwise. Car is with the dealer. Seemed they were backed up and would need to keep it which is fine as I work from home and have alternate transportation if needed. Thankfully the service advisor seemed pretty perceptive of everything I noted. Two comments she made that I made a mental note of is she was gonna have a tech drive around the building to try and get the sound to bounce off as I have been dealing with and she also did specifically mention the transmission and the warranty if it came to that. So cautiously optimistic and keeping my fingers crossed. So fare other than this noise cropping up, this car has been rock solid which I've been very happy with especially given it's a 2013. Other than regular maintenance, I had the APIM replaced under warranty and the washer fluid bottle replaced as it developed a crack and a leak at some point. Other than that, no 12V battery issues, minimal HVB (Energi model) degradation. Just recently upgraded to Sync 3. Quite happy and fully intend to drive it until the wheels fall off if possible.

That's what I'm hoping it is as well. If it's brakes or a wheel bearing/hub or something I'd be a lot happier about paying that repair bill vs worrying over the transmission issue. So far thankfully I haven't heard a peep of abnormal noise inside the vehicle with windows up. Just normal road noise.

This sound is actually very close to the one I'm hearing. I am taking her in today to get some other scheduled maintenance done. Also my drivers door handle completely stopped sensing my hand about a year back so gonna see if that's gonna be an involved fix or not. Will definitely be pushing to have them check on this noise and see if I can encourage them to also check on the transmission too to be sure. Just gonna flat out tell them I'm aware of the potential trans issues and want to make sure that's not starting to act up before my warranty runs out.

I've basically only ever heard it in EV mode. It's JUST quiet enough that it would be hard to hear over the ICE so not sure if it occurs during that or not. A/C is similar. I do plan to take it in to the dealer here in the next couple days for its yearly checkup, oil change, etc. so going to see if I can push them to do a more thorough check this time.

So I am very well aware of the known transmission issues on these vehicles in the earlier model years. Got a 2013 here. So far knock on wood with 81k on the odometer it has been behaving. However a noise that has been very slowly progressing over time has me bugged especially with only a few months left on the hybrid warranty. Unfortunately last time I had my dealer check it out they were unable to hear anything (to be fair, it was VERY hard to hear even for me at the time) and even now it can only be heard under very specific circumstances. Basically the only time it is heard is with the windows down, radio off, and if I am driving past another car or a wall or object that the sound can bounce off from the driver side. Anything outside of that such as driving in the open or windows rolled up it can't be heard easily unless it is SUPER quiet, no other cars/street noise. The noise though is a very distinct metal on metal grinding type noise, continuous with no rhythm I can tell. And it occurs under any load, accel or decel and seems to increase in loudness if more load is applied. Normally I would just say this is a wheel bearing somewhere but with the known transmission issues and the end of warranty coming up it has me a little spooked. Any thoughts especially from those who have dealt with the transmission failure before?

Get the ACM updated by a dealer. There have been TSBs for this exact issue on other Ford models over the years with software updates to fix this exact issue. No need for a rube goldberg workaround with the fuse.

Based on the clicking noises heard my guess would be it was indeed low enough that the various systems couldn't be powered up on battery alone and with the charger added in it was all fighting trying to get enough juice in to bring the battery up but also power up the rest of the car too. Given this and if its been sitting on the shelf as such, I'd definitely keep a very close eye on it after you've given it a solid trickle charge and resetting the life counter in the vehicle. If you do find you have to exchange it, I'd invest in a cheap voltmeter/multimeter and check the battery while in the store before you even check out with it. Very cheap insurance against a dud especially if the store isn't doing their due diligence on these. They shouldn't read anything below 12.00v sitting unused. Anything less can impact their usable life.

The ACM will need to be done by a dealer or a mechanic who has access to Ford's IDS. It can't be updated via USB like Sync can. Having the presets act up like that is also a probably sign of the ACM not behaving. To give the cliffnotes: The ACM is basically just the AM/FM/Sirius/CD tuner and outputs to the speakers and isn't much different than the old non-Sync radios. The APIM is the 'brains' and communicates with the ACM and tells it what to do and how to route audio and is the touch screen portion of the whole operation. The APIM pulls and interacts with the tuner presets from the ACM which holds them all. So it's all interconnected that way. And it's also why when these freezes happen that the touch screen works perfect but when you go to change sources or volume the controls 'respond' but don't really do anything. It's sending those commands but the ACM's not doing anything with them. As for the 12v battery, there are jumper leads under the hood on the driver side near the strut tower. There should be a little red cap for the positive post and negative is basically any bare metal. There may be a long bolt sticking out near there for a better connection. But this is where the car is supposed to be jump started from and should also be able to load test here as well as it runs directly to the battery. 12v battery life I don't think there's any good numbers as everyone's vehicle has behaved different over the years of ownership and with the above radio freezing issues that most like to ignore will commonly help degrade battery life and skew numbers. Most numbers I've seen thrown out are the classic 'average lifetime' of 12v batteries in any vehicle. I will say with my OWN personal experience on my 2013: I've had it since April '17. According to the internal counters the 12v battery looks like it MAY be original from the factory. Worst case if someone replaced the battery before me and didn't reset the life counter (FYI: This -SHOULD- be done. The vehicle has a smart charging system and tracks the battery life over time and adjusts charging and discharging based on that. When replacing it, the counter in the vehicle needs to be reset. This either needs to be done by a dealer or can be done via the ForScan app pretty easily) it's looking like it's at least 4 years old or more which still isn't shabby. And I haven't had any issues yet with it going dead on me. That said mine is an Energi model that I keep plugged in and it does top off the 12v battery while plugged in.

A LOT to unload in that last message but hopefully I can cover the key points: First, there is no need to force the ICE on for battery charging. Our vehicles will always be powering the 12V systems and charging the 12V battery when it is in 'Ready to Drive' mode. There is no alternator, it uses a DC-DC converter to convert power from the HVB down to 12V. The 12V battery should only need replacing if you have confirmed its capacity has dropped just like any other traditional vehicle. What is most often the case of the radio freeze and related 12V battery drain issues is the ACM (different from the APIM!) and it needs to be updated. There have been TSBs over the years on different Ford models with the same issues and the fix is updating the ACM to a new calibration level. To chime in on one of Bill-N's earlier points: The fact that the parking sensor beeps disappears is another indicator the ACM has locked up and will not shut down when the car is off. The Parking Aid Module sends signals to the ACM to tell it when, how and in which speakers to send the alert beeps. If those aren't heard when they should and the parking button isn't turned 'Off', the ACM is not behaving. Many people just stick with the workaround of pulling the necessary fuse(s) when this happens, but in reality the ACM needs updated. I can say from personal experience that I had my APIM replaced on my 2013 when I bought the vehicle back in 2017 and both it and the ACM were updated at that time. I have not had a single occurrence yet of the radio freezing.

My personal opinion on this is I'd be perfectly fine bringing the Energi forum back but just lock it and use it as an archive. I think with the small userbase here, having both Hybrid and Energi discussions on the same forum is fine moving forward rather than as separate sites. But that's just my opinion and thought on it. ?

Forgot to add this to my post, but this is also a very good item to check. This vehicle as well as most modern ones do have separate coils per spark plug and it is not uncommon for them to occasionally go bad. An easy check without a full on Ford IDS scantool is to clear the misfire codes and swap coils between the reported 'bad' one per the misfire code to another cylinder. If the misfire code follows the coil to the new cylinder, you have your problem. If the misfire position stays, it is something else still tied to that cylinder. Spark plug at best but could be a deeper issue. Also please ensure everything is fully seated and connected when doing this work.

Continuing to try to start the ICE if it can't continue to run and charge the HVB can be detrimental to it so I'd try and reduce how often you try until it can be properly sorted. If the HVB is drained beyond the point of being able to start the ICE, you're going to have to get a dealer involved so they can bring in a special battery charging unit if this is a Hybrid only model. That said, no, the HVB being low should not prevent the ICE from running if it was able to start it to begin with. Quite the opposite: If the battery is low enough but is able to start, it's gonna want to run the ICE longer to get the charge back up to a reasonable level barring any other issues to cause it to shut down the ICE. Probably a dumb question: But are you certain the ICE is shutting down due to a mechanical issue and not just because of the normal hybrid operation? There should be specific DTCs stored if the ICE is disabled/shut down due to an issue/failure where it is unsafe to continue running. Also the 'Ready to Drive' light -SHOULD- go out if there is an actual issue as the vehicle will no longer be able to move under its own power. If it's not reporting said DTC or the Ready to Drive light is still on, you can try this: While in Park with the vehicle started, hold the accelerator to the floor. This will, under normal operating circumstances, force the ICE to continue running while the pedal is pressed and charge the battery if it is able. If it is able to continue running in this case, the vehicle is at least not detecting any serious issues to prevent it from operating but if you still have misfire codes, those will obviously need to be figured out.

This would be really nice if it is doable. There were a LOT of useful posts there that are now missing.

You need to have your dealer (or trusted mechanic who has access to Ford's IDS) and get the ACM updated. This is the part that's locking up and causing related issues including key-off battery drain when it's stuck in this mode. There's been TSBs on this over the years for multiple Ford models covering this. Sadly most never get it properly fixed and just deal with the workaround.

Not that I'm aware of on the stock keyfobs. There should be a specific button specifically for the remote start function if you have the correct keyfob. This is the one I have with my 2013. Not sure if they've changed them in newer model years. That top button is for the remote start: FLMPEPS6-F-MAIN2.jpg (1000×1125) (northcoastkeyless.com) If you didn't get a fob with the remote start button, you may want to review the settings in the IPC menu (left screen in gauge cluster). There should be options for remote start settings in there. If those show for you, that's a good sign the vehicle is configured for it, just need to get the right fob. (Though in theory if you have the option in MFM it should be a given as well I think the Energi's had it standard. But the settings in the dash will 100% confirm the availability via keyfob)

I just wish a proper fix for this was implemented. I'd love a functioning ANC system but definitely not dealing with the even occasional deafening drone. Have had mine disconnected for some time now myself. Now that ForScan offers module firmware updates as a tool, I wonder if the DACMC got any worthy updates over the years to sort this out?

Incorrect. There's a second coolant system but it is purely for the inverter and has a MUCH smaller coolant tank. And I can't imagine a reason why that shouldn't be changed at the same time the ICE coolant is done as well.

One thing to keep in mind is if the ICE -JUST- started and is cold, the car is going to prefer to let it idle and warm up without a load before it has it contributing to propulsion of the vehicle. Cases that will override this are heavier acceleration or low HVB level as examples. But under mild to moderate accelerator application it will have the electric motor do the lions share of acceleration until the ICE is ready to go (read: All the normal cold start emissions checks are done, O2 sensors are happy, etc..)