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It's not going to end up on the recall list as it isn't necessarily a safety issue. It's likely going to be one of those unlisted 'if we feel like it' or 'if requested' software updates that the dealer can do but isn't required to. It's very likely it may have been missed. You can certainly request your dealer to get everything up to date at a cost to you.

One that always seems to work like clockwork for me is if you have an active Sirius subscription, have Sirius push a radio refresh.

Check over on the Ford Escape section of the Green Hybrid forums. There have been some posts quite a few years ago of people towing, and some with very large loads, in the Escape hybrids. They have pretty similar versions of the same transmission we have in ours and likely similar load capacity engineered in. Still boils down to a 'no towing' by Ford but some have done it to varying degrees. https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f26/ As jestevens alluded to, I think the biggest concern is ensuring control and braking of whatever is being towed. That is a much bigger issue over simply being able to pull the load from a stop or maintain speed.

It could be any combination of battery age, temp, cabin temp, etc.. Most cars these days will tailor the charging voltage to maximize the life of the battery. So if it is reading a bit above temp and the cabin temp is warmer than normal, it may lower the charging voltage. Even with a fairly aged/dead/dying battery, the charging system will still be able to maintain a 'normal' voltage of 13-15v. That's why you never see anyone recommend checking the battery voltage when the car is running because it is useless to do when trying to check the battery itself.

1) Look into getting a lithium based jump pack. They are compact and very portable and will often double as a USB power bank as well. These cars don't need much to jump start them so these will be a safe and convenient option for emergencies. Mine fits nicely in the little compartment under the passenger seat in the back. 2) Not sure if there's a super easy way to check. The only foolproof way I can think of is opening the hood and closing all other doors and let the car sit for about half an hour so everything shuts back off. Then use a voltmeter or multimeter to check the voltage at the jump terminal under the hood and see what it reads. You could also turn on the radio while the car is off and see how long it takes to turn itself off. Normally it does so after 10-15 minutes with a good battery. If the battery has aged or degraded it should turn off sooner. That may also give you a rough guess. I don't know if the factory batteries have any dates marked on them but if you can get to the battery in the back and see if it has a date marked anywhere to get an idea of how old it is that'd be a good thing to check. Overall if the battery is old it may simply need to be changed anyways. For a 2013 if you are lucky enough to still have the factory battery you are definitely overdue. One of the unfortunate side effects of these vehicles is you can no longer gauge battery health by engine cranking speed. They either start or they don't. 3) You can order a replacement canister from the dealer. I think it's no more than $20-$30 in most cases. If you are more mechanically inclined I'd probably go a step above and keep a patch kit in the car as well. Some people have also bought spares from other vehicles with the same wheel/tire size to keep around. I don't know details off the top of my head but shouldn't be too hard to search for in this forum. 4) I always recommend for replacement parts that aren't normal wear and tear to dig through parts.ford.com. You can either order direct and have it delivered to your local dealer for free and pick it up at the parts counter or at the very least it'll get you a part number you can then use to shop around like on eBay. Worst case you can just tear it off and leave it as is. I imagine it is just there for aerodynamics more than anything. 5) Never had an issue with mine personally. I get good coverage on the front windshield. If it is seriously degraded you could possibly have a blockage and/or may want to verify the fluid is topped off. Since you already have an appointment scheduled I'd keep on that. They'll probably check some of the basics I mentioned such as the battery age and health and may recommend a replacement anyways. There may also be some outstanding TSB's related to battery drain especially for a 2013 model that they could look into and make sure are applied.

The original drain issue you had simply sounds like the radio. The prox sensors not beeping, radio coming on while the car is off, bluetooth, etc.. Pull fuse 76 (at least as I last recall, someone can easily correct me on that) for a few minutes and reinstall. Simple fix.

It's noted in kilometres which comes up to roughly 155k miles.

Yep. Never bought directly from the navigation.com site. Usually buy either from Amazon or eBay. Both will usually have the cards listed around the $50 price point not too long after relase.

I don't have any immediate info on hand but may dig a little deeper after work. But some tidbits that may help track it down: Check the transmission teardowns on the Weber Auto Youtube channel. The fill/drain/check plugs most likely have been mentioned and indicated.Any searches, make sure to use 'HF-35' which is the model of the hybrid transmission used in the C-Max and Fusion hybrid/Energi's from 2013-2017.Another Youtube channel, fordtechmakuloco, recently covered transmission fluid drain/fill on the earlier 2005-2008 Escape hybrids which are not the same transmission but are very similar. Those were Aisin built while the 2013+ years are Ford built but have VERY close designs. May provide some breadcrumbs on where to look that may be of assistance.

I apologize if I misconstrued your earlier post. The specific wording sounded like you had lumped the Energi in with the hybrids as far as any 'EV capability'. Seems like we rather may be on the same page. As you indicated in this quoted paragraph you are pretty much spot on. Ford actually made some good design choices in adding extra parts to the Energi that the hybrid doesn't have in order to further assist it being viable running in EV only mode for extended periods. This does include the extra electric oil pump for the transmission and also full electric cabin heat. There are a few current PHEV's on the road that actually don't have the luxury of electric cabin heat and require engine operation for that which is a major downside IMHO. With my Energi I can easily drive in EV even in the dead of winter with cabin heat. Range suffers greatly, but it is capable. The only caveat is at a certain point the ambient temp to requested cabin temp differential is great enough that it decides it can't do so in EV and will force the ICE to kick in. But usually that is when it gets into the teens or below outside. As for the cruise comments, I'm in agreement and I think it is pretty much a dumb system outside of the Eco Cruise option which also seems pretty simple in operation in itself. And of course the relatively simplistic thresholds of when the C-Max decides to switch in and out of EV (which in some cases is a good thing, others it is annoying) will exacerbate that a bit. Some people may find it better to 'nudge' the car a bit into a given mode depending on the driving scenario.

Basically it is used at what is commonly referred to as a 'Harmonic Balancer'. More or less a dead weight that helps smoothen normal vibrations that come with an I4 engine. Normally this would be combined or be in addition to the crankshaft pulley to power other belt driven accessories. But with our cars all those accessories are electric so nothing that needs to be belt driven. But that harmonic balancer still needs to be there. The gear and sensor are also very likely the crankshaft position sensor as you inferred.

Interesting. This is all I get on my Energi. If I open up any of the panes it is just the boilerplate over explanation of the systems. Again, a 2013 model.

As a 2013 Energi user, I'm also curious about this. Never seen OLM info in my VHR reports and they aren't displayed anywhere else in the vehicle other than retrieving via OBD port.

I don't quite like the comment 'isn't an actual electric car' on PHEV's. Get too many EV Purists out there who bash PHEV's with this exact reasoning. It really should be seen as a short/mid-range EV with hybrid backup for range. In my case during normal commutes in my Energi I never use any gas during a normal day. In fact Ford has programmed the Energi to run the engine to use stale gas if the engine hasn't been used for I believe a full year. A -YEAR- with no ICE usage!

Sounds like an aftermarket unit a previous owner had installed. I am not aware of even a dealer offered (essentially aftermarket) option let alone a factory option.

As someone mentioned above, maybe contact Sync support via owner.ford.com and inform them of what your dealer mentioned and see if they can suggest another nearby dealer who knows what they're doing. If it was not showing the leaf icon, it is DEFINITELY way out of date and specifically needs a dealer to get it up to date. No way to do it DIY. With a 2013 it should still be covered under the 12M02 warranty extension as well on the Sync system. All in all, finding a more cooperative dealer is going to be a huge help on this.

If it is indeed on that old of an update, he will need to go to the dealer to get it updated. There was a certain version where it required some dealer only work to move forward. Do you have the leaf icon on the bottom of your screen?

So I have been watching this particular Youtube channel off and on for a while now called Weber Auto. Essentially lecture-like informational videos created by Professor John Kelly at Weber State University for their Advanced Automotive Technology course. And they have some videos specifically for the Ford hybrid drivetrain. Very educational. https://www.youtube.com/user/WeberAuto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHU5xFOBcsU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmDpNr1PdMk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZf_BUuW5Qg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UddAfkFfXuU

I'd love to see them offer fully sanctioned Sync 3 upgrades as compensation. Existing owners across various models have proven this is a relatively painless procedure. If that is not on the table, maintain Sync warranty coverage under the conditions offered by the 12M02 program indefinitely or under the length of an owner's remaining extended warranty coverage. I know lawyers will want their take but financial compensation is practically worthless for owners especially for us C-Max owners where swapping in aftermarket headunits is nigh impossible.

Yeah. I was kinda hoping it'd be better than rumored but the unfortunate side effect of EV propulsion. Lots of torque to break traction with. And the traction control unfortunately seems to be pretty lackluster. For me it seemed to let it spin unmitigated for a few moments then cut back all power and then try again. No sweet spot in between. Like you though I'm not too miffed since we hardly get this much snow and ice here. At most we get a very light dusting once or twice a season and it remains pretty driveable. This last blast was just a fluke. Now if I lived up in the snow belt where I grew up I likely would have reconsidered. That or kept my old Focus as a winter beater.

I'll have to check mine and see what it reports but I recall on my old '07 Focus even during the frigid winter months Torque would report it going closed loop pretty quickly around 15-20 seconds in from initial start. Seemed based on that that it only cared about the O2 sensors getting up to usable temp. Hopefully I'll be able to take mine out this weekend and verify after all our snow starts melting. Sadly haven't driven mine all week due to shitty snow management by our city. Our cul-de-sac has been untouched since our major snowfall and freezing rain last Friday. Tried going out Monday and got stuck 2 feet from the edge of my driveway. Have had to commute with my brother only because he has an AWD SUV with brand new tires and even then it is sketchy getting into our neighborhood.

1) Obvious question but is the car running/in 'Ready' mode? The two front ports will shut off when the car is off. The one in the hatch is on at all times. Otherwise nothing out of the ordinary on these. Check the normal stuff like using another device to see if it gets power, check fuses, verify you are touching your leads in the right spot (positive lead should be dead center in the bottom of the socket, negative to the outer metal casing). 2) EV+ Is a smart function where the car recognizes often visited locations such as home and work. What it does then is within 1/8 mi or so to those locations it ensures there is a healthy amount of charge remaining to make it the remainder of the way on EV only and will hold EV mode as long as possible. Allows it to shut down the engine and keep it off to your destination. 3) Not sure on this. Where is this coming from specifically? When does it happen? Etc.. 4) With hybrids I don't see this being as big of a concern especially in cold weather. The engine is going to need to come on at some point not too far out anyways. Especially if the car rests, the battery is going to cool down and depending on how cold, the engine's going to need to supplement it anyways until things warm up.

One thing SnowStorm posted above is very apt especially with battery replacements and that is getting the battery age reset in the car. Ours and most newer vehicles will actively monitor a battery SOC and age and modify various parameters such as charging and how long various modules stay running after the car is shut off. If this counter is not reset when the battery is replaced, it could skew certain things including charging rates. It is also a good idea to use the same type of battery and do not attempt any kind of 'upgrades' for this same reason. It is expecting a given type and size of battery. Good thing is if you DIY the battery replacement, the counter is easily reset through ForScan.

The 12v battery and systems is like any other car. There can be drains while the car is off that can drain it low enough where it wont be able to power the various computers reliably. Age and cold weather can also effect that and rate of 'offline' discharge just like any other car. Reason why the HVB doesn't run more stuff is it would cost a LOT more to develop the various electronics to run off it. 12V systems are so ubiquitous it is much cheaper and less hassle to build it this way. Every hybrid/plugin/EV runs this way even Teslas. Honestly don't know what the starting amperage is but it is definitely less than a tradiitonal ICE vehicle without the engine cranking load to worry about. It is a little bit of a pain and in a way I do wish there was some sort of built in jump starter utilizing the HVB. I have one of the Energi models with a larger battery and it is basically the same. Even with a full HVB charge if the 12V battery is dead, the car isn't going anywhere. Once the car is jump started that whole HVB becomes available.

Reason the HVB voltage is not in the manual is there is really no reason to need to know it. It'll vary depending on state of charge and will discharge further than a normal 12V battery will. And under 99.9999% of conditions it will never go dead. Lots of safeguards against this. To the point that there are currently no known dead HVB issues that I am aware of published or documented going waaaaay back to 2008-2010 with the second gen Escape hybrids and early Fusion hybrids. But FYI, the nominal voltage of the HVB is around 300-310v. The only thing the 12V battery does is get the computers up and running in the car. While the entire car is off, the HVB is completely disconnected and will have no drains on it. Starting up, it reconnects the HVB and gets everything going and the DC-DC converter begins supplying 12V power to the car just like an alternator, regardless if the ICE is running. When the ICE needs to start, the HVB does the cranking using the internal starter-generator motor in the transmission.