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On the Energi models, it is located in the left rear cargo trim panel and sits just behind the rear driver side door jamb. However since the hybrid models never came with these, the connector likely is not there. If you want to make the attempt to add it in you'd need to tap in somewhere on the I-CAN bus. That includes mainly infotainment adjacent modules like the APIM, ACM, IPC, FCIM/FCDIM, and DACM-C. These are all up front under the dash. No tire pressures reported in FordPass (neither did the old MyFord Mobile app). All it will do is give a general warning if any of the tires reach their low pressure threshold that would light up the TPMS warning on the dash. No way to add this in either. This feature seems to only exist in 'newer' TCUs/those with hotspot capability which will not communicate with the C-Max.

The traction battery has a very sturdy metal casing. Should be no issue. Personally in mine I've had the back loaded down with many bags of mulch/sand/etc from the local big box store with no issue.

More recently I have been mulling over a couple of potential electronic modifications to the C-Max that will all rely on CAN communication likely with some form of compact microcontroller/Arduino type setup to accomplish it. Right now nothing concrete started on these. Mostly just brainstorming the ideas so far and laying out some outlines of how I'd want to approach things. This thread, like a few of my others, is mostly to share these ideas and get them out there in writing. If anyone else is interested in toying with these, absolutely be my guest! Low gear brake lamp activation: A lot of new hybrid end electric vehicles when in heavy regen or whatever their low gear may be, will actively trigger the brake lamps without the brake pedal itself being used. The C-Max does not have this and I feel this is a huge safety issue. After playing around with Forscan and reviewing wiring diagrams, it does appear the BCM in the C-Max can activate the brake lamps fully in software as well (interesting enough, it has full PWM control and can adjust the brightness to any level 0-100%. Forscan has a control option with a nice brightness slider you can play with at the individual lamp level). Sadly no configurable options I can find for an actual low gear/regen brake lamp activation and was likely overlooked. Some logic conditions I have in mind for this: Only active in L Use a sensitive accelerometer in the micro or as an addon to sense G forces. I believe this is how Tesla handles theirs. I need to look into specifics and if the actual G force level is documented anywhere. If the actual brake pedal is depressed, cut off the automatic portion of the brake lamp activation (unsure how the two will coexist if trying to trigger simultaneously. This needs more testing) Pedestrian alert sounds: Again comparing to modern hybrid and electric vehicles here. Only recently has it been mandated to have external sounds generated at low speeds with the ICE off. Obviously the C-Max in all model years never had this. I think this would be a fun project to try and add that in and as a bonus have the ability to do custom sounds. One nice thing I've found is for newer Ford models with this, they have a 'weather-proof' speaker that sits either in the front or rear of the vehicle on the outside. It appears these are dumb speakers and just have basic +/- analog audio connections that go back into the cabin to a separate module that generates the sounds. Barring trying to find a place to mount it, this sounds like an ideal part to use here. Logic conditions in mind: Only active in any gear but Park Monitor vehicle speed, only active under 25mph Deactivate when ICE is active. Optionally may include when the AC compressor is running since that is quite buzzy and audible. Optional: Include some reverse specific alert sound active while in Reverse only (obviously) Personal goal: Keeping the sounds minimally jarring or annoying. I do have auditory sensory issues myself so keeping the sounds less annoying is a top goal for this. Additional battery cooling (Energi): This has been something that has been on the backburner for a while but I haven't really documented in full. Given the Energi's known thermal management issues with the hot exhausted air from the battery being sent back into the cabin (in a poor fashion at that), adding extra airflow or a more directed airflow outside of the vehicle would probably be a big help. I have a 12v high CFM blower that is built to be easily ducted that I have used for other projects and would probably be very useful for this. The hopeful goal is to be able to redirect the air through the louvres in the rear that let extra air flow out of the vehicle. Also the goal is for this to be intelligent to operate only while charging or while driving and the battery temp reaches a predetermined point and bypass Ford's own programming that keeps the stock cooling fan off until the temp reaches more than 20 degrees above the cabin temp. Logic conditions in mind for this: Trigger when plugged in and the on board charger is actively providing 12v/accessory power. While not charging (running Value Charge for example) only activate when the battery is at an elevated temperature but ONLY as long as the cabin temp stays within a certain range compared to HVB temp. I don't think there's much use trying to force cooling if the cabin temp is above battery temp. But may have to experiment to see if it continues to help in any way. Add some PWM control to adjust the speed based on battery temp. Optionally see about running this while driving, bypassing Ford's '20 degree' differential programming. The PWM control would come in very handy here to keep noise down.

Adding some extra info. Had a brief private discussion with a user on the Forscan forums. I'm just gonna copy/paste the discussion rather than try to paraphrase: A few takeaways I'm seeing from this: The BCM is likely going to be the biggest factor in which 'version' of this system will be used. As noted, mine is BV6N which should follow the old Focus Mk3 setup with the separate CCM module and radar. Not sure where the DV6T models come in. I'm gonna take a wild guess those may have came in the 2017 model years with the other major changes and updates at the time. But if you have that model BCM, in theory you can follow the Focus Mk3.5 setup with the radar module being the CCM with no separate modules needed. The IPC still remains the biggest question mark here. Sadly I haven't had much luck surfacing info on AsBuilt data for the PSCM and ABS. ABS will be necessary to modify for ACC at least. I'll probably have better luck with that once I can get into UCDS.

Another difference I noticed out driving this evening. Not huge, just a small thing: When stopped on an incline where the Hill Start Assist would be active, it actively pops up a message indicating this. The old IPC did not. I think I did enable HSA in the AsBuilt. I think at most on the old IPC it just had a small icon in the bottom row of the left screen for this. A full screen message shows instead on the new ones. If no one reports seeing this on their stock 17/18 models, it is probably due to the HSA config being enabled in my specific case.

Can you confirm exactly how the noise sounds? Is it more of a low hum? Does it only happen when the ICE/engine is running? If so, it's the active noise cancellation system in these vehicles misbehaving. There's a workaround to disable it entirely covered below. There are some TSBs for a supposed proper fix that your dealer can do so it will remain active but won't drone anymore. Hard to say if those fixes have had any success or not. Doesn't seem like anybody has reported following through and like a lot of other 'issues' with this vehicle it feels like most owners are too cheap to follow through with their dealers.

This is what you DONT want to do. I merely pointed that out as a situation that is more likely to cause this error code. Now some may disagree with some of my guidance, but I feel this is good practice based on what we know about these vehicles: Running EV+ is fine as long as you do make sure to plug in overnight*. Warmer months of the year you are probably even safe doing so without plugging in. Colder months things can get sketchy. As the battery temp drops (say it is warmed up from driving and then sits overnight and cools off to ambient temp) the charge level/SOC drops. EV+ lets the vehicle discharge it really low and when the SOC drops due to the temp dropping, it can easily fall below a safe threshold which one of the symptoms can be these cell balancing stuck codes. Charging overnight avoids this because you're actively bringing the SOC back up and keeping it within safe levels. I've only ever had the code come up twice on mine and they've gone away after a drive cycle. Both situations occurred after I had driven with EV+ in the winter and for various reasons did not plug in and the battery got deeply discharged. Following drive cycle the CEL/wrench light was on, ICE was on full time. After that drive though once the ICE charged the battery back up to safe levels, the code went away and the vehicle behaved fine after that. Hasn't happened since and I've made a more conscious effort to disable EV+ if I know it's not going to be plugged in. On that final note, if yours hasn't went away after a drive or charging the battery fully, likely you have bigger problems and I'll refer to my previous comment about having it properly diagnosed by a Ford dealer. * = Obviously this applies to Energi/plug-in models. IMHO EV+ should be avoided on hybrid models because you don't have the luxury of plugging in to bring it back to safe levels. Between of the Fusion and C-Max, there have been one or two reported cases of batteries getting deeply discharged and essentially 'bricking' the vehicle and being unable to start. For those they had to have their dealer bring in a proprietary charger to sort it out. These were on hybrid only models, just so we're on the same page.

These cell balancing circuit stuck on/off codes SHOULD go away normally on their own as long as the battery is still in ok shape. Usually you see the 'stuck on' version if the battery gets deeply discharged (such as running with EV+ enabled, letting it discharge really low, then sitting overnight without plugging in if an Energi model). If it sticks around, it is likely signaling a very degraded battery or a set of cells has degraded past the point the vehicle can keep them in check. There's nothing really to 'fix' here beyond getting a new battery if that's the case. You'll likely want to have a Ford dealer diagnose it if it is a concern.

Is it possible you can get a better idea where those wires are coming from and confirm the color (more specifically the stripe colors)? I tried to review the wiring diagrams to narrow down what those wire may be for but didn't have much luck. I do see another splice up there (that little blue clip just to the top right of your circle) which indicates somebody was messing about in here. May or may not be the culprit, but it certainly throws up some red flags to me.

By disconnected connector and suspicious wires, are these under the glove compartment on the passenger side? Can you get photos and post them? The fuse panel back here is the BCM which is a crucial module for the vehicle and can be in control of some of these functions and I'm curious if someone may have messed with something here that could be interfering. Other than that, it's hard to pinpoint things. If the vehicle drives but the cluster, radio, and climate controls don't turn on, it's doubtful it is EV/battery related. Likely these aren't getting the appropriate ignition on signal from the BCM. But that's an educated guess.

Make sure your Sync system is fully up to date. Ford has full instructions how to do so on their website: https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/ After that, do a master reset which will clear out any old garbage as well as phone pairings. If this has not been done since you've owned the car, it may be a good idea to do so even if there's no updates available. Remove the Bluetooth pairing from your phone and re-pair it. I usually recommend having it initiated from Sync by finding the phone on screen and pairing it there versus finding Sync on your phone's BT menu. In my personal experience the pairing process behaves better this way. YMMV though. If all that is exhausted and the issue still continues, you may want to try another phone if possible to rule out it being an issue with the phone itself. Making sure that is fully up to date is also prudent. Beyond those suggestions, the comments about using USB instead is likely your next best bet other than upgrading (I highly recommend upgrading to Sync 3 in these vehicles rather than go aftermarket, barring you have the 8" touch Sync 2. Also budget is a factor of course).

Small but important update for those who haven't gotten the news from other sources. Also kinda late getting to this: The official upgrade process and bulletin through Ford has been updated and upgrades on the C-Max have resumed with new parts and software updates available. Owners who haven't upgraded yet should be getting new notices mailed to them. For those of us who have DIY'd this, supposedly there's a new software update for the 'old' 4G TCU's as well. No clue on the actual versions/filenames at this time sadly so we're in the dark. We have to wait until someone does get theirs updated through Ford or otherwise and report the new calibration level. I've went through my usual process of checking DSFM (Ford's own site to download calibration files if you know the full filename) by incrementing the suffix, which has worked in the past, but nothing new I can find in that sequence. There's also been plenty of notes that these can take OTA updates. No idea what the process is for that. My guess is likely it'll happen silently in the background with no notifications or messages and happens all in the TCU itself. To the best of my knowledge there's no mechanisms in either Sync 2 or 3 to do anything like this (ie: Pulling down calibration updates over Wifi and updating the TCU itself. Sync 2 being EOL certainly is out of the question.) 21B09_-_Supplement_2.pdf

Dumb question: But is it push button start (guessing yes being a Titanium trim)? Make sure they are not using the brake pedal while trying to turn it off. My brother has the same issue with my 2013 as he tries to shut it off with his foot on the brake pedal. Just a wild guess though. I have yet to see anyone have issues in this area and the ignition system isn't terribly complicated.

I wanted to post here mainly to ping @Cellivar and to make an observation I just had while doing further research on trying to add adaptive cruise that I've started a thread for elsewhere in this forum. The 'Cruise Control Menu' setting which we've both looked at and commented on in the past I have come to find that on vehicles with more than just 'basic' cruise control like adaptive or intelligent adaptive (this mode apparently can either use the speed limits provided by the nav system, the lane keeping/forward collision camera in countries where the system is capable of reading speed limit signs, or a combination of both in conjunction with adaptive cruise, to automatically adjust the set speed as the speed limit changes) have this particular menu so you can switch modes in case you want just normal cruise control without adaptive and whatnot. This does make things very intriguing seeing that on our IPC especially considering the available config options seem to be very spartan and largely limited to options these vehicles actually have (with a few surprises of course). The menu didn't appear when I turned on adaptive cruise in the BCM/Central Config on a whim but I also don't have the CCM module and the BCM rightfully tossed a DTC when I did that and made cruise control completely inop. I'm curious if once I can get the necessary modules and install them that this menu will show. I'm kinda half optimistic that the IPC will surprise me and it will just miraculously show all the necessary displays, but not getting my hopes up.

For now this is just going to be an explanation and going over my thought processes and research thus far. I don't have the disposable funds at the moment to get the necessary modules especially with no guarantee of this actually working so it may be a while before I can take the next step. Also I'll likely want to get a UCDS adapter and with the Russia issues recently, getting a hold of one here in the US is nearly impossible now. For the longest time I have been itching to have adaptive cruise. Having driven my cousin's late model Subaru Crosstrek last year on a road trip, the ACC absolutely spoiled me. I started digging into the OpenPilot/Comma AI options to see what was possible there. Went down a rabbit hole and found there are plenty of unofficial forks with some people retrofitting off-brand parts that solely interface with the OP/Comma systems. For example one current fork I'm looking at uses a Toyota radar module and a 'Comma Pedal' which basically middle-mans the throttle pedal. This may still be something I'll look at later. During that process and looking further, I was made aware that the C-Max in the EU/UK, as well as other vehicles on the C1MCA platform like the Focus, had adaptive cruise, lane keeping, and other driver assistance technologies in the same generation. Reviewing the workshop manual and wiring diagrams for the EU/UK version as well as some other resources online, there are a lot of similarities more than just sharing the same body style even down to sharing the same ABS module as one immediate example. Electrically things should be compatible, just the software side is the big question mark. Also perusing the Focus Fanatics forum, which is largely NA focused, a number of users have apparently been successful doing the same thing there which leads extra credence to this project. After doing that digging, I decided to take a look at Forscan to see what options were already available. What we know currently as far as the software modifications needed on those overseas models and will likely carry over here if things are successful: ABS AsBuilt modified to indicate ACC is available BCM/Central Config has a Cruise control option w/ various additional options such as ACC, ACC with Stop & Go, etc that would need changed With lane keeping also being a potential option, the PSCM/Power Steering has an AsBuilt config to indicate lane keeping is available. This one I'll discuss later. Unfortunately the current ABS and PSCM AsBuilt's do not match any of the databases Cyanlabs has so I'll likely need to do more digging and maybe bug one of the members over there to see if they have AB info for our specific modules. But I did look into the BCM/Central Config and confirmed having the other cruise control options. For the heck of it, I decided to enable CC w/ Adaptive Cruise to at least see what it would do, if any errors appeared, etc.. What happened next was interesting and leads some hope to this being possible: After turning on Adaptive Cruise in the Central Config, the immediate notice was the normal cruise option was completely inoperable. Steering wheel controls did nothing, no displays on the cluster. There were also some new DTCs stored. Namely one complaining about lack of communication with the Cruise Control module. Why this last one is interesting is in my research leading up to this point, those Ford vehicles equipped with ACC will have a separate 'Cruise Control Module' that will communicate with the rest of the vehicle. So this seems to indicate it at least has some level of this functionality already programmed in as it is cognizant of a CCM that it cannot communicate with currently. For early C1 (C-Max or Focus) model years it seems this is a separate module inside the cabin and then the radar module behind the bumper has a private feed to the CCM. Later model years integrated it all into the radar module itself. Seems the BCM in those determines what version is compatible. For my 2013 and knowing already how dated the BCM is with some features, I'm leaning towards trying with the separate CCM/Radar module setup. In addition to these modules, a new CC button pack on the steering wheel is needed. They have one identical to ours but the cancel/resume paddle is now split and has the cancel/resume button as well as the distance increase/decrease buttons (attached a photo below). In theory this should just be a plug and play replacement. It's all down to resistances for each button going back to the BCM and the extra buttons are just added resistance values, the rest of the buttons remain the same. The other big question mark is the IPC/Gauge cluster. With the C-Max, there are no options to enable any ACC related display options because this cluster is unique to the NA Hybrid/Energi models and those never had the feature as an option. There is a 'Cruise Control Menu' option that enabling with a stock C-Max doesn't seem to do anything and a few owners including myself have confirmed this. Maybe something will show with ACC properly installed and enabled? Not sure. But in a worst case scenario, hoping the IPC will not interfere. If things all work well, I want to consider looking into an Arduino or other microcontroller with CAN capabilities and a screen and have it act as visual feedback instead. So far probably the biggest useful resource I have found is this long thread over on the FFClub russian forums detailing retrofitting ACC in the Mk3 Ford Focus. The processes should be very similar if not identical in places to the C-Max given the shared architecture. It's a bit rough being all russian with machine translation, but it's serviceable and a good read. https://ffclub.ru/topic/313391/ Forscan will also be a small headache, hence me wanting to look at getting a UCDS adapter and software. Forscan by default only shows modules that either were available factory or as an option for your model and year or if someone did some toying like this with 'off-brand/model' uses, they can work with the Forscan devs to add basically a 'whitelist' for your model for them to show. UCDS from what I have gathered is more flexible and even has some additional configuration and service options that Forscan may not have and which may be useful for this. I'll definitely keep you all posted as I make any progress. As noted initially, it may take some time for me to take the next steps here due to not having the disposable funds at the moment. But if anyone is keen in trying this themselves, be my guest. I can provide any additional information or research I've come across. Final note: Lane Keeping/Lane Centering is also a potential option. However the camera module that sits behind the rear view mirror will be a huge headache to install properly. Mainly because, once again not having this as an option here in North America, the windshield we have doesn't have the necessary 'openings' up top for the cameras. Other than trying to import one, maybe getting an aftermarket windshield without the 'blackout' area and effectively painting on your own will work? Also figuring out mounting with the existing mirror and rain sensor might be a chore. I'm not too terribly worried about LKA myself and will be purely focusing on ACC for the time being.

Radio presets don't get lost in Ford vehicles because they store them in the ACM AsBuilt data which is non-volatile RAM. Likewise for Sync, basically everything including phone pairings and the like are stored in flash and don't get lost during a simple power loss. Regarding your lights staying on, likely you have something else causing issues as well. Depending on your model year, there have been some known issues with stuff like the liftgate latch not registering as being closed and needing to be realigned. Other's will probably chime in with other suggestions as well since there have been numerous updates and fixes in the early model years for various battery drain issues, but with the lights staying on it seems to indicate a door (or even the hood) still registering as being open.

I'll have to do up a tutorial soon to show how people can do the ACM update themselves since people still seem to like doing things the hard way with the workaround. You can do it DIY through a Forscan beta that allows for firmware/calibration updates. Stupid simple process and takes less than 5-10 minutes.

Same. Not loading for me either. May be better uploading it someplace like YT and linking that here.

Yep! Upgraded about 2 years ago now. My unit came with 3.4 and I've been diligently been keeping it up to date with Syn3Updater. IMHO Sync 3 is probably one of the best and easiest upgrades to do on these vehicles barring you have the 8" touch Sync 2/MyFord Touch system.

Took another test drive today. Full charge and drove 100% EV. The Next Full Charge display was still inoperative as is the Full Charge display on the left screen. Likely another module in the vehicle somewhere needs updated or swapped outright (if that's even possible). Also the original intent with TCU/FordPass data: Still no change here. No EV Trip data still on my '13. So the next step there is the GWM which will be a process since newer part #'s are hard to come by. That said, everything else is fully functional. No DTCs or complaints from anything else in the vehicle. A couple of differences I have seen to the old IPC which I think is good to list here for documentation purposes: No more fuel + electric or 'MPGe' economy display. This exists under the Settings > Units menu on older units. No longer there on this one full EV driving maxes out at 999mpg. 'Ready to Drive' popup displays the charge percentage on the newer units. Old ones do not. Turn signal sound is SLIGHTLY different Some text such as the odometer and some menu entries are a slightly larger and more legible font to my eyes on the new unit. Probably a more obvious and well known one: The Gas+Elec range display on the bottom of the right side display on the new units. Doesn't exist on the old ones. There's a dedicated range screen on the left side on those. Because of the above change, the clock is no longer displayed here. This is fine since the APIM displays this anyways. Under the navigation panel, the compass image has changed. Hard to explain the differences but nothing major. Just a slightly different looking compass image. For nav equipped vehicles, the speed limit image has changed slightly. The actual speed number in the image is slightly bigger on the newer units and to my eyes a bit easier to read at a glance compared to the older units. Surprisingly, compared to my original assumptions, all the menus and displays on the right side screen are the same as on the older units while driving. The biggest difference here would be the Next Full Charge display that shows at key-off. I have previously enabled a 'Next Charge' display that replaces this and will have a Value Charge/Charge Now toggle as well as estimating when the charge will start and how long it will take. This behaves the same on both units. Will be keeping this installed in the meantime. I'm also going to start looking for a 17/18 workshop manual to review as they cover CAN communication details including the source and destination of various pieces of data which will be helpful. For now, this thread will probably go back idle unless something else comes up. But I'm always open for questions.

The proper fix for these is to get the ACM calibration updated. Bring it to a dealer. They can easily do it in under a half an hour. It's a simple process. May charge you the normal diag fee for that length of time. But it will sort it out. I had also found recently there was a TSB for these vehicles in particular on this. Previously I had been going on one exclusive to the Fusion but the same issue and ACMs are nearly universal in the Ford fleet. Ironically enough, this TSB for us has been posted in this forum already:

It can also regen while coasting under normal conditions. Depending on how long you may have done it for could have added some amount of charge back in. Short and sweet explanation being there are limited sources of energy to go back into the battery: Either via EVSE/plug-in (if this is an Energi model), the ICE/engine, or regen braking which can happen with the brake pedal actively applied, while coasting in Drive/L, or with grade assist or cruise control enabled and there's a need for them to 'slow down' or maintain a lower speed than the vehicle naturally wants to reach. So we would need to know more details about exactly the conditions during that drive to know for sure, but likely it comes under one of the above conditions.

Good news, everyone! So I have been working with the Forscan devs on the. up to now, missing Odometer Write function on the C-Max IPCs. Went through a few test builds and looks like we got it working. Current status of things: New '17 IPC installed into my '13. Odometer has been successfully updated. All the functions seem to work fine. The only thing so far not working which was a big question mark going into this is the 'Next Full Charge' screen that breaks down energy use between ambient, HVAC use, and propulsion. At the end of my test drive and shutting down the car it just came up blank. However I had no plug-in charge from this drive so not sure if that would still display? I'll have to report back if this changes. Worst case if it remains inop, I just keep my Value Charge/Charge Now toggle screen enabled. ? I did notice one of my previously enabled toggles, the Auto Engine Off function, now shows where it did not before. I haven't had a chance to test it. When I swapped, I basically brought over my entire AsBuilt from the old unit. Per CyanLabs' DB, all model years fall under the same AsBuilt data. Newer ones just have more bits to use for extra features. While messing with the AB stuff, I did notice one new bit that is in here is the 'Approach Detection Control Function' which after reviewing some of Ford's marketing materials surfaces an interesting feature: This is what some other makes/models have where with a keyless vehicle you can approach the vehicle and within 8-10 feet or so, the vehicle wakes up, lights go on, etc.. Which is weird seeing in the AsBuilt for this IPC since it is North American C-Max Hybrid/Energi exclusive as far as I know. Sadly when trying to enable it, Forscan says it is an invalid config so likely a loss. But if anyone else wants to take a whack at it, be my guest!

Did a brief install test in the garage this evening. Good news is that as best I can tell, everything works. All the new displays function fine. I have not been able to go for a test drive yet because Forscan apparently doesn't have the option to update the odometer on these vehicles. I will be reaching out to the devs over there to see what can be done. If I get lucky on that front and I can update the odometer, I'll reinstall the new IPC and do a proper test drive. For those that have newer model years with these features, I'm assuming the efficiency breakdown display is one that shows on the right side screen at key-off? I still have the next charge selection screen enabled which may be overwriting this so I'll need to disable that temporarily next go to see if that works. That's the only thing I didn't see. Also no new data from FordPass even moving an inch in the garage but that likely wasn't enough to trigger a full trip so that check will also come next time around if I can get the odometer updated.

Yeah, the C-Max never came with runflats from the factory that I'm aware of. The factory tires are Michelin Energy Savers. Personally I recommend avoiding them like the plague unless you live in a 100% dry climate. They'll bite you in the ass if you live where there's winter precip.