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Just put my '13 IPC back in earlier this evening with no fuss and was able to confirm the odometer write function in Forscan covered that part # just the same. If the 'Next Full Charge' energy usage breakdown and EV range estimate worked, I would have probably stuck with the '17 unit. But missing that (and not knowing what other modules are responsible and not being adventurous enough to try a calibration update on a crucial module) that combined with the loss of some other data points ultimately wasn't worth it. I even noticed it's missing the gallons of fuel used on the trip summary too. That one baffles me most of all.

A couple extra notes included with the photos: The rubber gromet on the passenger side of the hatch that has the washer fluid hose and rear defrost wire has a decent amount of room remaining. Was pretty easy to run the cable through here for a seamless run. Running the cable out of the trim on the top side of the hatch is not suitable. It kept tugging on the cable and disconnecting the camera. The photos below show where it routes on the window side of the trim which has worked out better here. All cable excess was wrapped up and hidden above the headliner up front above the passenger visor. I've also included a diagram of the headliner showing all the plastic spacers and the routing I took.

Got around to installing the rear camera to my dual cam Viofo A129 dashcam today since I had the day free and was already doing some tweaks and fixes to my APIM. This setup has a long USB cable that runs from the rear camera to the front. Power is fed through this cable instead of supplied separately. Ultimately was trying to find the cleanest and easiest solution without opening too many trim panels or having to pull down the whole headliner. What worked for me is there's a somewhat clear path through the headliner just to the side of the moonroof shade track on the passenger side (those without the moonroof will have an easier time). This also clears the side airbags as well. There's already a harness that runs in this same spot for the ANC mics and overhead lights. I had a set of fiberglass wire fish poles (linked below) for other uses that came in handy here. CAREFULLY probing around I was able to clear through the headliner. There's a metal brace up front that is a pain to clear and you may need to pull the headliner down some for clearance, but it is possible. There's a number of plastic spacers glued to the headliner that you need to work your way through/around, but the path I found seems to be the easiest to fish through. https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Running-Electrical-Different-Attachments/dp/B0B38KV7BQ/r As far as mounting the rear camera, with the tiny window we have I found the best spot was attaching to the upper trim piece on the hatch, leaving the camera lens the only thing coming into view of the window. It seems to have a clear and straight view with little obstructions. Trying to place it on either side of the window with the curvature leaves you missing a bit from the opposite side of the car. I'll have pics posted later this afternoon once I get everything buttoned back up. I need to do a test drive as well and make sure everything functions correctly. Some older dual cam units had some bad interference issues coming off this cable that could interfere with some systems in the vehicle such as TPMS.

You may be right. That was the only part # I saw coming up searching eBay and other sites. I'm mildly questioning some of the info, but it is a lot more than I was able to find previously on my own. Just need to dive in some more. I've reached out on the Comma.AI/Openpilot Discord's to see if maybe I can get some CAN data from similar vehicles to replay to try and trick the vehicle into thinking a CCM is installed to test before I go through with actually purchasing the parts. But so far haven't had anyone get back to me on that.

Yeah. After running it for a while now, I think I'm in the same mindset as you and will probably switch back. The tiny amount of improvements don't really make it worth it for the lost features. The original intent was mostly to rule it out as an issue with the TCU upgrade but that hasn't gotten any better or worse. I also noticed that it looks like the previous owner of this particular IPC already had it updated a good deal. The calibration level was dated sometime in 2022. One other little quirk I found is that the MyView screen now if you want to change it, you have to change both displays. The old IPC you could go in and change just one at a time. Another minor gripe I have with the new one.

It may not list the exact symptoms you experience, but it's all related. A dead 12v battery will often happen after experiencing those symptoms if it is left unchecked. Worst case you can fib to the dealer and say some of this is happening and provide them that TSB. The update called for should resolve it long term.

Cost shouldn't be much. The update takes 10-15 minutes tops. So likely it'll be the cost of a 1/2 or hour of labor depending on how they want to charge you.

Yep. Looks like it got added to the most recent public release. end of April.

Just keep in mind that with these vehicles (and a lot of newer vehicles and most Ford's anymore), the coolant tank is pressurized itself. It basically takes place of the old way of having that on the radiator. While I don't think any of the mentioned tricks here will harm this in any way, just figured I'd toss this out as an FYI.

Fat16/Fat32 as @jzchen mentioned, make sure it's setup as MBR and not GPT partitioning. Some newer drives/operating systems default to GPT. Past those, from my personal experience Sync is pretty forgiving for everything else as long as you're using compatible media files. The error you got is related to the formatting of the drive though and not the contents as I recall. It'll simply refuse to play/show incompatible files with no warning.

Nope. While the C-Max does track the individual tire pressures internally, there's no stock way to view these either on the in-vehicle displays (nothing you can even enable. I, as well as others, have went through these with a fine toothed comb) or via FordPass. You can use third party scantools to view them however.

On the Energi models, it is located in the left rear cargo trim panel and sits just behind the rear driver side door jamb. However since the hybrid models never came with these, the connector likely is not there. If you want to make the attempt to add it in you'd need to tap in somewhere on the I-CAN bus. That includes mainly infotainment adjacent modules like the APIM, ACM, IPC, FCIM/FCDIM, and DACM-C. These are all up front under the dash. No tire pressures reported in FordPass (neither did the old MyFord Mobile app). All it will do is give a general warning if any of the tires reach their low pressure threshold that would light up the TPMS warning on the dash. No way to add this in either. This feature seems to only exist in 'newer' TCUs/those with hotspot capability which will not communicate with the C-Max.

The traction battery has a very sturdy metal casing. Should be no issue. Personally in mine I've had the back loaded down with many bags of mulch/sand/etc from the local big box store with no issue.

More recently I have been mulling over a couple of potential electronic modifications to the C-Max that will all rely on CAN communication likely with some form of compact microcontroller/Arduino type setup to accomplish it. Right now nothing concrete started on these. Mostly just brainstorming the ideas so far and laying out some outlines of how I'd want to approach things. This thread, like a few of my others, is mostly to share these ideas and get them out there in writing. If anyone else is interested in toying with these, absolutely be my guest! Low gear brake lamp activation: A lot of new hybrid end electric vehicles when in heavy regen or whatever their low gear may be, will actively trigger the brake lamps without the brake pedal itself being used. The C-Max does not have this and I feel this is a huge safety issue. After playing around with Forscan and reviewing wiring diagrams, it does appear the BCM in the C-Max can activate the brake lamps fully in software as well (interesting enough, it has full PWM control and can adjust the brightness to any level 0-100%. Forscan has a control option with a nice brightness slider you can play with at the individual lamp level). Sadly no configurable options I can find for an actual low gear/regen brake lamp activation and was likely overlooked. Some logic conditions I have in mind for this: Only active in L Use a sensitive accelerometer in the micro or as an addon to sense G forces. I believe this is how Tesla handles theirs. I need to look into specifics and if the actual G force level is documented anywhere. If the actual brake pedal is depressed, cut off the automatic portion of the brake lamp activation (unsure how the two will coexist if trying to trigger simultaneously. This needs more testing) Pedestrian alert sounds: Again comparing to modern hybrid and electric vehicles here. Only recently has it been mandated to have external sounds generated at low speeds with the ICE off. Obviously the C-Max in all model years never had this. I think this would be a fun project to try and add that in and as a bonus have the ability to do custom sounds. One nice thing I've found is for newer Ford models with this, they have a 'weather-proof' speaker that sits either in the front or rear of the vehicle on the outside. It appears these are dumb speakers and just have basic +/- analog audio connections that go back into the cabin to a separate module that generates the sounds. Barring trying to find a place to mount it, this sounds like an ideal part to use here. Logic conditions in mind: Only active in any gear but Park Monitor vehicle speed, only active under 25mph Deactivate when ICE is active. Optionally may include when the AC compressor is running since that is quite buzzy and audible. Optional: Include some reverse specific alert sound active while in Reverse only (obviously) Personal goal: Keeping the sounds minimally jarring or annoying. I do have auditory sensory issues myself so keeping the sounds less annoying is a top goal for this. Additional battery cooling (Energi): This has been something that has been on the backburner for a while but I haven't really documented in full. Given the Energi's known thermal management issues with the hot exhausted air from the battery being sent back into the cabin (in a poor fashion at that), adding extra airflow or a more directed airflow outside of the vehicle would probably be a big help. I have a 12v high CFM blower that is built to be easily ducted that I have used for other projects and would probably be very useful for this. The hopeful goal is to be able to redirect the air through the louvres in the rear that let extra air flow out of the vehicle. Also the goal is for this to be intelligent to operate only while charging or while driving and the battery temp reaches a predetermined point and bypass Ford's own programming that keeps the stock cooling fan off until the temp reaches more than 20 degrees above the cabin temp. Logic conditions in mind for this: Trigger when plugged in and the on board charger is actively providing 12v/accessory power. While not charging (running Value Charge for example) only activate when the battery is at an elevated temperature but ONLY as long as the cabin temp stays within a certain range compared to HVB temp. I don't think there's much use trying to force cooling if the cabin temp is above battery temp. But may have to experiment to see if it continues to help in any way. Add some PWM control to adjust the speed based on battery temp. Optionally see about running this while driving, bypassing Ford's '20 degree' differential programming. The PWM control would come in very handy here to keep noise down.

Adding some extra info. Had a brief private discussion with a user on the Forscan forums. I'm just gonna copy/paste the discussion rather than try to paraphrase: A few takeaways I'm seeing from this: The BCM is likely going to be the biggest factor in which 'version' of this system will be used. As noted, mine is BV6N which should follow the old Focus Mk3 setup with the separate CCM module and radar. Not sure where the DV6T models come in. I'm gonna take a wild guess those may have came in the 2017 model years with the other major changes and updates at the time. But if you have that model BCM, in theory you can follow the Focus Mk3.5 setup with the radar module being the CCM with no separate modules needed. The IPC still remains the biggest question mark here. Sadly I haven't had much luck surfacing info on AsBuilt data for the PSCM and ABS. ABS will be necessary to modify for ACC at least. I'll probably have better luck with that once I can get into UCDS.

Another difference I noticed out driving this evening. Not huge, just a small thing: When stopped on an incline where the Hill Start Assist would be active, it actively pops up a message indicating this. The old IPC did not. I think I did enable HSA in the AsBuilt. I think at most on the old IPC it just had a small icon in the bottom row of the left screen for this. A full screen message shows instead on the new ones. If no one reports seeing this on their stock 17/18 models, it is probably due to the HSA config being enabled in my specific case.

Can you confirm exactly how the noise sounds? Is it more of a low hum? Does it only happen when the ICE/engine is running? If so, it's the active noise cancellation system in these vehicles misbehaving. There's a workaround to disable it entirely covered below. There are some TSBs for a supposed proper fix that your dealer can do so it will remain active but won't drone anymore. Hard to say if those fixes have had any success or not. Doesn't seem like anybody has reported following through and like a lot of other 'issues' with this vehicle it feels like most owners are too cheap to follow through with their dealers.

This is what you DONT want to do. I merely pointed that out as a situation that is more likely to cause this error code. Now some may disagree with some of my guidance, but I feel this is good practice based on what we know about these vehicles: Running EV+ is fine as long as you do make sure to plug in overnight*. Warmer months of the year you are probably even safe doing so without plugging in. Colder months things can get sketchy. As the battery temp drops (say it is warmed up from driving and then sits overnight and cools off to ambient temp) the charge level/SOC drops. EV+ lets the vehicle discharge it really low and when the SOC drops due to the temp dropping, it can easily fall below a safe threshold which one of the symptoms can be these cell balancing stuck codes. Charging overnight avoids this because you're actively bringing the SOC back up and keeping it within safe levels. I've only ever had the code come up twice on mine and they've gone away after a drive cycle. Both situations occurred after I had driven with EV+ in the winter and for various reasons did not plug in and the battery got deeply discharged. Following drive cycle the CEL/wrench light was on, ICE was on full time. After that drive though once the ICE charged the battery back up to safe levels, the code went away and the vehicle behaved fine after that. Hasn't happened since and I've made a more conscious effort to disable EV+ if I know it's not going to be plugged in. On that final note, if yours hasn't went away after a drive or charging the battery fully, likely you have bigger problems and I'll refer to my previous comment about having it properly diagnosed by a Ford dealer. * = Obviously this applies to Energi/plug-in models. IMHO EV+ should be avoided on hybrid models because you don't have the luxury of plugging in to bring it back to safe levels. Between of the Fusion and C-Max, there have been one or two reported cases of batteries getting deeply discharged and essentially 'bricking' the vehicle and being unable to start. For those they had to have their dealer bring in a proprietary charger to sort it out. These were on hybrid only models, just so we're on the same page.

These cell balancing circuit stuck on/off codes SHOULD go away normally on their own as long as the battery is still in ok shape. Usually you see the 'stuck on' version if the battery gets deeply discharged (such as running with EV+ enabled, letting it discharge really low, then sitting overnight without plugging in if an Energi model). If it sticks around, it is likely signaling a very degraded battery or a set of cells has degraded past the point the vehicle can keep them in check. There's nothing really to 'fix' here beyond getting a new battery if that's the case. You'll likely want to have a Ford dealer diagnose it if it is a concern.

Is it possible you can get a better idea where those wires are coming from and confirm the color (more specifically the stripe colors)? I tried to review the wiring diagrams to narrow down what those wire may be for but didn't have much luck. I do see another splice up there (that little blue clip just to the top right of your circle) which indicates somebody was messing about in here. May or may not be the culprit, but it certainly throws up some red flags to me.

By disconnected connector and suspicious wires, are these under the glove compartment on the passenger side? Can you get photos and post them? The fuse panel back here is the BCM which is a crucial module for the vehicle and can be in control of some of these functions and I'm curious if someone may have messed with something here that could be interfering. Other than that, it's hard to pinpoint things. If the vehicle drives but the cluster, radio, and climate controls don't turn on, it's doubtful it is EV/battery related. Likely these aren't getting the appropriate ignition on signal from the BCM. But that's an educated guess.

Make sure your Sync system is fully up to date. Ford has full instructions how to do so on their website: https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/ After that, do a master reset which will clear out any old garbage as well as phone pairings. If this has not been done since you've owned the car, it may be a good idea to do so even if there's no updates available. Remove the Bluetooth pairing from your phone and re-pair it. I usually recommend having it initiated from Sync by finding the phone on screen and pairing it there versus finding Sync on your phone's BT menu. In my personal experience the pairing process behaves better this way. YMMV though. If all that is exhausted and the issue still continues, you may want to try another phone if possible to rule out it being an issue with the phone itself. Making sure that is fully up to date is also prudent. Beyond those suggestions, the comments about using USB instead is likely your next best bet other than upgrading (I highly recommend upgrading to Sync 3 in these vehicles rather than go aftermarket, barring you have the 8" touch Sync 2. Also budget is a factor of course).

Small but important update for those who haven't gotten the news from other sources. Also kinda late getting to this: The official upgrade process and bulletin through Ford has been updated and upgrades on the C-Max have resumed with new parts and software updates available. Owners who haven't upgraded yet should be getting new notices mailed to them. For those of us who have DIY'd this, supposedly there's a new software update for the 'old' 4G TCU's as well. No clue on the actual versions/filenames at this time sadly so we're in the dark. We have to wait until someone does get theirs updated through Ford or otherwise and report the new calibration level. I've went through my usual process of checking DSFM (Ford's own site to download calibration files if you know the full filename) by incrementing the suffix, which has worked in the past, but nothing new I can find in that sequence. There's also been plenty of notes that these can take OTA updates. No idea what the process is for that. My guess is likely it'll happen silently in the background with no notifications or messages and happens all in the TCU itself. To the best of my knowledge there's no mechanisms in either Sync 2 or 3 to do anything like this (ie: Pulling down calibration updates over Wifi and updating the TCU itself. Sync 2 being EOL certainly is out of the question.) 21B09_-_Supplement_2.pdf

Dumb question: But is it push button start (guessing yes being a Titanium trim)? Make sure they are not using the brake pedal while trying to turn it off. My brother has the same issue with my 2013 as he tries to shut it off with his foot on the brake pedal. Just a wild guess though. I have yet to see anyone have issues in this area and the ignition system isn't terribly complicated.

I wanted to post here mainly to ping @Cellivar and to make an observation I just had while doing further research on trying to add adaptive cruise that I've started a thread for elsewhere in this forum. The 'Cruise Control Menu' setting which we've both looked at and commented on in the past I have come to find that on vehicles with more than just 'basic' cruise control like adaptive or intelligent adaptive (this mode apparently can either use the speed limits provided by the nav system, the lane keeping/forward collision camera in countries where the system is capable of reading speed limit signs, or a combination of both in conjunction with adaptive cruise, to automatically adjust the set speed as the speed limit changes) have this particular menu so you can switch modes in case you want just normal cruise control without adaptive and whatnot. This does make things very intriguing seeing that on our IPC especially considering the available config options seem to be very spartan and largely limited to options these vehicles actually have (with a few surprises of course). The menu didn't appear when I turned on adaptive cruise in the BCM/Central Config on a whim but I also don't have the CCM module and the BCM rightfully tossed a DTC when I did that and made cruise control completely inop. I'm curious if once I can get the necessary modules and install them that this menu will show. I'm kinda half optimistic that the IPC will surprise me and it will just miraculously show all the necessary displays, but not getting my hopes up.