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To clarify, the more accurate way to gauge the battery health of these vehicles is to see the actual kwh used from a full charge. There's no other way. Ford doesn't have any internal data points on these indicating battery health. Don't rely on the 'miles of range' the vehicle gives you as this can vary significantly depending on certain factors and isn't an accurate depiction of battery health. Here's a brief rundown of the test process: 1) Fully charge to 100% 1a) (optional: Reset a trip meter before taking off) 2) Drive the vehicle in EV mode ONLY. Do not drive on the highway or use cabin heat/defrost or anything else that may cause the engine to start. If the engine starts during this test, the numbers are immediately invalidated. 3) Once the battery is depleted and drops to hybrid operation you can either view the kwh used on the trip meter or bring the car to a safe stop, shut it down, and view the trip summary displayed. 5.5kwh is what is considered brand new capacity from the factory. Above 4.0 is still 'good/ok'. Anything less starts getting into solid degradation. Anecdotally: My 2013 with 90k miles is around 3.5kwh or so capacity now. It still drives with no issues and nets me in the range of 12-15 miles on a good day.

I'll say that as long as it's not throwing any codes, it should be fine. These vehicles track a LOT of data points and are pretty picky about emissions related stuff (of which coolant temp will be part of that). But take my info with a grain of salt of course. If you want to do some reading, Ford's got an extensive document about the OBD/emissions related systems including relevant trouble codes and conditions: https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/diagnostics/pdf/OBDSM1303_HEV.pdf

Retraining TPMS shouldn't be a huge issue. For one, it isn't STRICTLY required. Just means the car will complain at you about no/incorrect readings but it will still be perfectly drivable. Secondly, training isn't that difficult. Personally the fastest/easiest way I've found is while in accessory mode or the car is running, tap the hazard flasher button 5 times and it should initiate the process with clear messages stating what it wants in readable English in the cluster. Individual tires can be trained with a cheap TPMS training tool (Usually you hold these up to the valve stem and press the button for it to trigger) or you can add/remove air from a tire to get it to read (I've often done the deflation option. Remove enough and add back after it is trained). Once a tire is 'trained', the horn honks to let you know and the dash will update to let you know the next tire that needs done. I can't remember off the top of my head which order it goes in.

Actually there is. Many owners of newer model years have confirmed this on the FB C-Max groups. My 2013 didn't have it initially but I was able to add it. Need to go through the BCM Central Config in Forscan and there's a Global Open/Global Close option. It may need to be 'toggled' to get it to work, ie: If it already shows Global Close enabled, switch to something else like disabled or Global Open only, save/write, then go back in and repeat the process with Global Close enabled.

30 degrees F? This is normal behavior especially at lower temps like this and will be exacerbated the higher you have the cabin temp set. These vehicles don't push to get the coolant temp up to the 200-210 temp normally seen on ICE only vehicles. It only brings the coolant temp up to what's needed for cabin heat and will let the ICE cycle accordingly thereafter. In my firsthand experience I've often had it not get off the first notch on the coolant temp gauge when it gets down below freezing out when there's a ton of stop and go driving. But you should be getting heat if the temp gauge is up at least off the bottom of the gauge and it has been able to enter EV operation. If it's dead cold coming out of the vents, you may want to pull codes (with a proper scanner like Forscan with an appropriate adapter with MS-CAN support, not a generic off the shelf scanner) and see if any are reported for stuff like malfunctioning HVAC dampers or if it is seeing an issue with the engine cooling side of things. These vehicles are smart and track a lot of data points for this stuff and will store codes appropriately if something isn't behaving right.

Once the plug-in charge is depleted, it operates like a hybrid only model which still charges/depletes the battery as you drive as part of the hybrid operation. But it won't come up to having a plug-in charge where you can run pure EV mode, hence the 0km range shown.

Any lights on the EVSE? If it is charging ok on L2, you may have an issue with your house wiring or your L1 EVSE. There are lights on it that will blink in a certain fashion for diagnostic purposes.

I've got the OBDLink EX myself and it has been solid. In fact it is on Forscan's recommended list for everything including firmware updates. It's gotten me through a few 2h30m TCU updates with no fuss.

They should, yes. At the very least the charge session screen and notifications will. Features that have been hit or miss for some even on the H units ends up being the EV Trip Data screen mainly. For those that it doesn't work for it will just say there's no trip data in the past 30 days. As far as the 754-02-01 line, I think some of us who have toyed with this haven't seen much of a difference on these. Mine's currently set to 1EA0 but I've also had it on 00E0 in the past. As far as any continued comments on the J units, I'll leave that to others who have tried those. I have not and my info is second hand based on their information. Officially the 21B09 bulletin shows only H units being supplied to applicable vehicles. And those are the only ones known to have the necessary firmware/calibration to allow the Value Charge/Go Times features to function at the very least. This also impacts being able to set those via Sync (though I don't know if Sync 1 has those menus to set?), not just FordPass. Looks like @JoSS had posted their attempts at this a couple pages back.

Only the H TCU's are compatible with the C-Max. The J may work in some capacity, but no guarantees. Others have tried in the past and have been unsuccessful. I think remote start was one of the features found to be inoperative. There may be more. At the very least, it will absolutely not be possible to retain the Value Charge/Go Times features with this. For those features an updated calibration/firmware is needed that's only available for the H models. The AsBuilt looks correct though. Only thing to confirm is what type of Sync system do you have and adjusting that 9842 as necessary. You're indicating this is a Sync 1 equipped vehicle which would be the 4" non-touch version. If it's Sync 3 (the 8" touch version for 2017 model years), that should be a B. Lastly I assume you have done the whole factory mode/activation process?

What was your TCU part #? I'm not aware of any compatible ones from the F-150. If it's not compatible, it is possible some basic status displays still work but other functions do not. Also if you can post your AsBuilt, we can verify everything is set correctly. But if you like, you can view the AsBuilt info others have posted throughout this thread. There's not much to config and just a couple important items such as vehicle architecture and engine type

Got this message in the FordPass app this morning on mine. "Due to software updates to the Fordpass app, preferred Charge Times, Departure Times, and Trip & Charge Logs will no longer be supported on your C-Max. However, you can continue to access and enjoy these features using your in-vehicle display. We regret any inconvenience this may cause." Curious if anyone else, more specifically those with 2014+ model years covered under the 21B09 program, got this message as well? Also if anyone here has a Fusion Energi or Focus BEV has gotten this? Wondering if this just applied to the C-Max, maybe just hits certain model years? Since mine is a 2013 and was never technically inside this program to begin with. Ultimately it means this has basically hit a 'dead end' for me. I have been continuing to look out for newer firmware updates to try and fix the trip logs at least but since they're just eliminating those functions in the app entirely, no further need for me to continue messing with it. The remaining functionality operates fine as it is now. Really sucks though they're further dumbing this down. The only saving grace at this point is they continue to offer this for free (subscription-wise, not counting the hardware cost. At this point I'd implore anyone else who hasn't jumped on this to look for DIY options instead of paying Ford the $400-$500 for the modem for limited functionality.)

Yes, but why not have the option to add a sorely missed feature in this vehicle? May not be up to everyone's skill set, but it's there for those that want to tackle it. Purely informational which is always a welcome thing in this small community. Also you may not use the rear washer regularly to notice. I know I rarely use mine in comparison to the front washer. There may also be some corner cases where you may not have the washer fluid available once it stops working and will be SOL. Think out in the middle of nowhere on a road trip. Another fun little tidbit and makes the actual low fluid level sensor better than relying on the rear washer stopping: The way the washer fluid system is built in our vehicles (as well as many other Ford's with rear washers apparently) is it is a single pump that reverses polarity based on which is used. The reason the rear washer may stop flowing first is due to the longer fluid line (as well as having to run all the way up to the roof line) and needing the entire thing to be primed to have a flow. For the washer fluid level sensor, it sits higher up in the bottle and will give a lot more advance warning when it runs low instead of being when the bottle is completely empty where the pump can no longer do its job. At that point you're relying on what little fluid remains in the lines from the pump to the front washer nozzles. Personally, and why I am posting stuff like this, is I am very much interested in finding ways to add features back in that Ford never bothered to. There's a ton of potential, largely due to being shared with the Focus platform which in some respects (especially overseas) had a lot more going for it. Unfortunately with the community being so small and many owners that are of the older age groups who just treat it as an appliance (no harm in that), that very few people like myself are willing to dive in to this stuff.

We all know that these vehicles sadly never came with a washer fluid level sensor let alone had the option for it in any model year/trim. Doing some research recently, it does appear that it is possible to add it and enable it as if it came that way. In fact the Ford Parts site lists the sensor itself you can order (it lists about $15 for me at my dealer). I've already put in some details over on Cellivar's C-Max repo: https://github.com/Cellivar/ford-c-max/discussions/9#discussioncomment-6202112 The TL;DR/cliffnotes version: Part numbers: Sensor: CV4Z-17B649-A Sealing grommet: CV4Z-16K624-A A new wire needs to be run back to the BCM as it doesn't exist currently. This goes to pin 13 on connector C2280A (this is not confirmed, but wiring diagrams for a '14 Focus bear this out). The other side of the sensor is grounded nearby under the hood. Programming-wise: There's both a setting in the IPC as well as the BCM to enable the low fluid level warning and the sensor itself respectively. The IPC config you can refer to the CyanLabs AsBuilt DB: https://cyanlabs.net/asbuilt-db/ipc-c-max-2012-2019-database/?search=Global%20Clock%20(GC)%2012%2F24%20Hour#database. For the BCM, this will be part of the Central Config in human readable format and easy to find. Accessing the washer fluid bottle requires taking off the passenger side front wheel and taking out the fender liner. The Hybrid and Energi models have different washer fluid bottles and the sensor is located differently. However you can review the diagrams for the bottles on the Ford Parts site as, ironically, they show where the sensor should go even though it doesn't exist from the factory. That said, modification will be necessary as a hole will need to be drilled to fit the sensor. I have not had a chance yet to do this modification myself. Dealing with the tire/fender stuff is going to make that a bit of a pain. At minimum I intend to start by at least verifying the pin on the BCM and software modifications work. I have no reason to believe that they won't, but always good to confirm.

Just put my '13 IPC back in earlier this evening with no fuss and was able to confirm the odometer write function in Forscan covered that part # just the same. If the 'Next Full Charge' energy usage breakdown and EV range estimate worked, I would have probably stuck with the '17 unit. But missing that (and not knowing what other modules are responsible and not being adventurous enough to try a calibration update on a crucial module) that combined with the loss of some other data points ultimately wasn't worth it. I even noticed it's missing the gallons of fuel used on the trip summary too. That one baffles me most of all.

A couple extra notes included with the photos: The rubber gromet on the passenger side of the hatch that has the washer fluid hose and rear defrost wire has a decent amount of room remaining. Was pretty easy to run the cable through here for a seamless run. Running the cable out of the trim on the top side of the hatch is not suitable. It kept tugging on the cable and disconnecting the camera. The photos below show where it routes on the window side of the trim which has worked out better here. All cable excess was wrapped up and hidden above the headliner up front above the passenger visor. I've also included a diagram of the headliner showing all the plastic spacers and the routing I took.

Got around to installing the rear camera to my dual cam Viofo A129 dashcam today since I had the day free and was already doing some tweaks and fixes to my APIM. This setup has a long USB cable that runs from the rear camera to the front. Power is fed through this cable instead of supplied separately. Ultimately was trying to find the cleanest and easiest solution without opening too many trim panels or having to pull down the whole headliner. What worked for me is there's a somewhat clear path through the headliner just to the side of the moonroof shade track on the passenger side (those without the moonroof will have an easier time). This also clears the side airbags as well. There's already a harness that runs in this same spot for the ANC mics and overhead lights. I had a set of fiberglass wire fish poles (linked below) for other uses that came in handy here. CAREFULLY probing around I was able to clear through the headliner. There's a metal brace up front that is a pain to clear and you may need to pull the headliner down some for clearance, but it is possible. There's a number of plastic spacers glued to the headliner that you need to work your way through/around, but the path I found seems to be the easiest to fish through. https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Running-Electrical-Different-Attachments/dp/B0B38KV7BQ/r As far as mounting the rear camera, with the tiny window we have I found the best spot was attaching to the upper trim piece on the hatch, leaving the camera lens the only thing coming into view of the window. It seems to have a clear and straight view with little obstructions. Trying to place it on either side of the window with the curvature leaves you missing a bit from the opposite side of the car. I'll have pics posted later this afternoon once I get everything buttoned back up. I need to do a test drive as well and make sure everything functions correctly. Some older dual cam units had some bad interference issues coming off this cable that could interfere with some systems in the vehicle such as TPMS.

You may be right. That was the only part # I saw coming up searching eBay and other sites. I'm mildly questioning some of the info, but it is a lot more than I was able to find previously on my own. Just need to dive in some more. I've reached out on the Comma.AI/Openpilot Discord's to see if maybe I can get some CAN data from similar vehicles to replay to try and trick the vehicle into thinking a CCM is installed to test before I go through with actually purchasing the parts. But so far haven't had anyone get back to me on that.

Yeah. After running it for a while now, I think I'm in the same mindset as you and will probably switch back. The tiny amount of improvements don't really make it worth it for the lost features. The original intent was mostly to rule it out as an issue with the TCU upgrade but that hasn't gotten any better or worse. I also noticed that it looks like the previous owner of this particular IPC already had it updated a good deal. The calibration level was dated sometime in 2022. One other little quirk I found is that the MyView screen now if you want to change it, you have to change both displays. The old IPC you could go in and change just one at a time. Another minor gripe I have with the new one.

It may not list the exact symptoms you experience, but it's all related. A dead 12v battery will often happen after experiencing those symptoms if it is left unchecked. Worst case you can fib to the dealer and say some of this is happening and provide them that TSB. The update called for should resolve it long term.

Cost shouldn't be much. The update takes 10-15 minutes tops. So likely it'll be the cost of a 1/2 or hour of labor depending on how they want to charge you.

Yep. Looks like it got added to the most recent public release. end of April.

Just keep in mind that with these vehicles (and a lot of newer vehicles and most Ford's anymore), the coolant tank is pressurized itself. It basically takes place of the old way of having that on the radiator. While I don't think any of the mentioned tricks here will harm this in any way, just figured I'd toss this out as an FYI.

Fat16/Fat32 as @jzchen mentioned, make sure it's setup as MBR and not GPT partitioning. Some newer drives/operating systems default to GPT. Past those, from my personal experience Sync is pretty forgiving for everything else as long as you're using compatible media files. The error you got is related to the formatting of the drive though and not the contents as I recall. It'll simply refuse to play/show incompatible files with no warning.

Nope. While the C-Max does track the individual tire pressures internally, there's no stock way to view these either on the in-vehicle displays (nothing you can even enable. I, as well as others, have went through these with a fine toothed comb) or via FordPass. You can use third party scantools to view them however.