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For now this is just going to be an explanation and going over my thought processes and research thus far. I don't have the disposable funds at the moment to get the necessary modules especially with no guarantee of this actually working so it may be a while before I can take the next step. Also I'll likely want to get a UCDS adapter and with the Russia issues recently, getting a hold of one here in the US is nearly impossible now. For the longest time I have been itching to have adaptive cruise. Having driven my cousin's late model Subaru Crosstrek last year on a road trip, the ACC absolutely spoiled me. I started digging into the OpenPilot/Comma AI options to see what was possible there. Went down a rabbit hole and found there are plenty of unofficial forks with some people retrofitting off-brand parts that solely interface with the OP/Comma systems. For example one current fork I'm looking at uses a Toyota radar module and a 'Comma Pedal' which basically middle-mans the throttle pedal. This may still be something I'll look at later. During that process and looking further, I was made aware that the C-Max in the EU/UK, as well as other vehicles on the C1MCA platform like the Focus, had adaptive cruise, lane keeping, and other driver assistance technologies in the same generation. Reviewing the workshop manual and wiring diagrams for the EU/UK version as well as some other resources online, there are a lot of similarities more than just sharing the same body style even down to sharing the same ABS module as one immediate example. Electrically things should be compatible, just the software side is the big question mark. Also perusing the Focus Fanatics forum, which is largely NA focused, a number of users have apparently been successful doing the same thing there which leads extra credence to this project. After doing that digging, I decided to take a look at Forscan to see what options were already available. What we know currently as far as the software modifications needed on those overseas models and will likely carry over here if things are successful: ABS AsBuilt modified to indicate ACC is available BCM/Central Config has a Cruise control option w/ various additional options such as ACC, ACC with Stop & Go, etc that would need changed With lane keeping also being a potential option, the PSCM/Power Steering has an AsBuilt config to indicate lane keeping is available. This one I'll discuss later. Unfortunately the current ABS and PSCM AsBuilt's do not match any of the databases Cyanlabs has so I'll likely need to do more digging and maybe bug one of the members over there to see if they have AB info for our specific modules. But I did look into the BCM/Central Config and confirmed having the other cruise control options. For the heck of it, I decided to enable CC w/ Adaptive Cruise to at least see what it would do, if any errors appeared, etc.. What happened next was interesting and leads some hope to this being possible: After turning on Adaptive Cruise in the Central Config, the immediate notice was the normal cruise option was completely inoperable. Steering wheel controls did nothing, no displays on the cluster. There were also some new DTCs stored. Namely one complaining about lack of communication with the Cruise Control module. Why this last one is interesting is in my research leading up to this point, those Ford vehicles equipped with ACC will have a separate 'Cruise Control Module' that will communicate with the rest of the vehicle. So this seems to indicate it at least has some level of this functionality already programmed in as it is cognizant of a CCM that it cannot communicate with currently. For early C1 (C-Max or Focus) model years it seems this is a separate module inside the cabin and then the radar module behind the bumper has a private feed to the CCM. Later model years integrated it all into the radar module itself. Seems the BCM in those determines what version is compatible. For my 2013 and knowing already how dated the BCM is with some features, I'm leaning towards trying with the separate CCM/Radar module setup. In addition to these modules, a new CC button pack on the steering wheel is needed. They have one identical to ours but the cancel/resume paddle is now split and has the cancel/resume button as well as the distance increase/decrease buttons (attached a photo below). In theory this should just be a plug and play replacement. It's all down to resistances for each button going back to the BCM and the extra buttons are just added resistance values, the rest of the buttons remain the same. The other big question mark is the IPC/Gauge cluster. With the C-Max, there are no options to enable any ACC related display options because this cluster is unique to the NA Hybrid/Energi models and those never had the feature as an option. There is a 'Cruise Control Menu' option that enabling with a stock C-Max doesn't seem to do anything and a few owners including myself have confirmed this. Maybe something will show with ACC properly installed and enabled? Not sure. But in a worst case scenario, hoping the IPC will not interfere. If things all work well, I want to consider looking into an Arduino or other microcontroller with CAN capabilities and a screen and have it act as visual feedback instead. So far probably the biggest useful resource I have found is this long thread over on the FFClub russian forums detailing retrofitting ACC in the Mk3 Ford Focus. The processes should be very similar if not identical in places to the C-Max given the shared architecture. It's a bit rough being all russian with machine translation, but it's serviceable and a good read. https://ffclub.ru/topic/313391/ Forscan will also be a small headache, hence me wanting to look at getting a UCDS adapter and software. Forscan by default only shows modules that either were available factory or as an option for your model and year or if someone did some toying like this with 'off-brand/model' uses, they can work with the Forscan devs to add basically a 'whitelist' for your model for them to show. UCDS from what I have gathered is more flexible and even has some additional configuration and service options that Forscan may not have and which may be useful for this. I'll definitely keep you all posted as I make any progress. As noted initially, it may take some time for me to take the next steps here due to not having the disposable funds at the moment. But if anyone is keen in trying this themselves, be my guest. I can provide any additional information or research I've come across. Final note: Lane Keeping/Lane Centering is also a potential option. However the camera module that sits behind the rear view mirror will be a huge headache to install properly. Mainly because, once again not having this as an option here in North America, the windshield we have doesn't have the necessary 'openings' up top for the cameras. Other than trying to import one, maybe getting an aftermarket windshield without the 'blackout' area and effectively painting on your own will work? Also figuring out mounting with the existing mirror and rain sensor might be a chore. I'm not too terribly worried about LKA myself and will be purely focusing on ACC for the time being.

Radio presets don't get lost in Ford vehicles because they store them in the ACM AsBuilt data which is non-volatile RAM. Likewise for Sync, basically everything including phone pairings and the like are stored in flash and don't get lost during a simple power loss. Regarding your lights staying on, likely you have something else causing issues as well. Depending on your model year, there have been some known issues with stuff like the liftgate latch not registering as being closed and needing to be realigned. Other's will probably chime in with other suggestions as well since there have been numerous updates and fixes in the early model years for various battery drain issues, but with the lights staying on it seems to indicate a door (or even the hood) still registering as being open.

I'll have to do up a tutorial soon to show how people can do the ACM update themselves since people still seem to like doing things the hard way with the workaround. You can do it DIY through a Forscan beta that allows for firmware/calibration updates. Stupid simple process and takes less than 5-10 minutes.

Same. Not loading for me either. May be better uploading it someplace like YT and linking that here.

Yep! Upgraded about 2 years ago now. My unit came with 3.4 and I've been diligently been keeping it up to date with Syn3Updater. IMHO Sync 3 is probably one of the best and easiest upgrades to do on these vehicles barring you have the 8" touch Sync 2/MyFord Touch system.

Took another test drive today. Full charge and drove 100% EV. The Next Full Charge display was still inoperative as is the Full Charge display on the left screen. Likely another module in the vehicle somewhere needs updated or swapped outright (if that's even possible). Also the original intent with TCU/FordPass data: Still no change here. No EV Trip data still on my '13. So the next step there is the GWM which will be a process since newer part #'s are hard to come by. That said, everything else is fully functional. No DTCs or complaints from anything else in the vehicle. A couple of differences I have seen to the old IPC which I think is good to list here for documentation purposes: No more fuel + electric or 'MPGe' economy display. This exists under the Settings > Units menu on older units. No longer there on this one full EV driving maxes out at 999mpg. 'Ready to Drive' popup displays the charge percentage on the newer units. Old ones do not. Turn signal sound is SLIGHTLY different Some text such as the odometer and some menu entries are a slightly larger and more legible font to my eyes on the new unit. Probably a more obvious and well known one: The Gas+Elec range display on the bottom of the right side display on the new units. Doesn't exist on the old ones. There's a dedicated range screen on the left side on those. Because of the above change, the clock is no longer displayed here. This is fine since the APIM displays this anyways. Under the navigation panel, the compass image has changed. Hard to explain the differences but nothing major. Just a slightly different looking compass image. For nav equipped vehicles, the speed limit image has changed slightly. The actual speed number in the image is slightly bigger on the newer units and to my eyes a bit easier to read at a glance compared to the older units. Surprisingly, compared to my original assumptions, all the menus and displays on the right side screen are the same as on the older units while driving. The biggest difference here would be the Next Full Charge display that shows at key-off. I have previously enabled a 'Next Charge' display that replaces this and will have a Value Charge/Charge Now toggle as well as estimating when the charge will start and how long it will take. This behaves the same on both units. Will be keeping this installed in the meantime. I'm also going to start looking for a 17/18 workshop manual to review as they cover CAN communication details including the source and destination of various pieces of data which will be helpful. For now, this thread will probably go back idle unless something else comes up. But I'm always open for questions.

The proper fix for these is to get the ACM calibration updated. Bring it to a dealer. They can easily do it in under a half an hour. It's a simple process. May charge you the normal diag fee for that length of time. But it will sort it out. I had also found recently there was a TSB for these vehicles in particular on this. Previously I had been going on one exclusive to the Fusion but the same issue and ACMs are nearly universal in the Ford fleet. Ironically enough, this TSB for us has been posted in this forum already:

It can also regen while coasting under normal conditions. Depending on how long you may have done it for could have added some amount of charge back in. Short and sweet explanation being there are limited sources of energy to go back into the battery: Either via EVSE/plug-in (if this is an Energi model), the ICE/engine, or regen braking which can happen with the brake pedal actively applied, while coasting in Drive/L, or with grade assist or cruise control enabled and there's a need for them to 'slow down' or maintain a lower speed than the vehicle naturally wants to reach. So we would need to know more details about exactly the conditions during that drive to know for sure, but likely it comes under one of the above conditions.

Good news, everyone! So I have been working with the Forscan devs on the. up to now, missing Odometer Write function on the C-Max IPCs. Went through a few test builds and looks like we got it working. Current status of things: New '17 IPC installed into my '13. Odometer has been successfully updated. All the functions seem to work fine. The only thing so far not working which was a big question mark going into this is the 'Next Full Charge' screen that breaks down energy use between ambient, HVAC use, and propulsion. At the end of my test drive and shutting down the car it just came up blank. However I had no plug-in charge from this drive so not sure if that would still display? I'll have to report back if this changes. Worst case if it remains inop, I just keep my Value Charge/Charge Now toggle screen enabled. ? I did notice one of my previously enabled toggles, the Auto Engine Off function, now shows where it did not before. I haven't had a chance to test it. When I swapped, I basically brought over my entire AsBuilt from the old unit. Per CyanLabs' DB, all model years fall under the same AsBuilt data. Newer ones just have more bits to use for extra features. While messing with the AB stuff, I did notice one new bit that is in here is the 'Approach Detection Control Function' which after reviewing some of Ford's marketing materials surfaces an interesting feature: This is what some other makes/models have where with a keyless vehicle you can approach the vehicle and within 8-10 feet or so, the vehicle wakes up, lights go on, etc.. Which is weird seeing in the AsBuilt for this IPC since it is North American C-Max Hybrid/Energi exclusive as far as I know. Sadly when trying to enable it, Forscan says it is an invalid config so likely a loss. But if anyone else wants to take a whack at it, be my guest!

Did a brief install test in the garage this evening. Good news is that as best I can tell, everything works. All the new displays function fine. I have not been able to go for a test drive yet because Forscan apparently doesn't have the option to update the odometer on these vehicles. I will be reaching out to the devs over there to see what can be done. If I get lucky on that front and I can update the odometer, I'll reinstall the new IPC and do a proper test drive. For those that have newer model years with these features, I'm assuming the efficiency breakdown display is one that shows on the right side screen at key-off? I still have the next charge selection screen enabled which may be overwriting this so I'll need to disable that temporarily next go to see if that works. That's the only thing I didn't see. Also no new data from FordPass even moving an inch in the garage but that likely wasn't enough to trigger a full trip so that check will also come next time around if I can get the odometer updated.

Yeah, the C-Max never came with runflats from the factory that I'm aware of. The factory tires are Michelin Energy Savers. Personally I recommend avoiding them like the plague unless you live in a 100% dry climate. They'll bite you in the ass if you live where there's winter precip.

TL;DR version: Recently got lucky and found a cheap IPC/cluster module from a 17/18 C-Max with actual noted mileage below the 90k I have now. This is important because through most tools including Forscan, you can only increase odometer mileage, not decrease. Due to a number of reasons noted below, will be attempting to upgrade this and see how compatible it is, especially with some of the newer trip summary and EV bits. This kinda rolls back to the whole 4G TCU upgrade mess and having DIY'd this on my '13 which isn't officially on Ford's upgrade program. Most of the functions work beautifully, but some key features are missing such as EV Trip Data in FordPass. Having reviewed the workshop manuals numerous times over the years, I do know there's two 'gateway' modules in the C-Max: The IPC/cluster and the actual GWM/Gateway module (the OBD connector below the dash trim, not the one behind the panel next to the drivers door). Both are responsible in varying degrees to bridge messages between CAN networks. Part of this includes data from the powertrain related modules on the HS-CAN and HEV-CAN networks ultimately over to I-CAN where the TCU/modem lies. First try will be the IPC if only because there are other secondary reasons I want to try it. Then I'll move to the GWM which should be a much simpler and cheaper process. This led me to the wild and educated guess that there could be out of date modules, being a 2013, that could be interfering. And I decided to just try it for the hell of it and see what goes. Minimum I should be able to resell modules at a small loss which doesn't bother me much at the prices I'm looking at. Secondary reason is just to see if any of the newer IPC functions on the later model years are backwards compatible. I know some toggles that some people reference such as being able to turn DRLs on/off or disable parking sensors from the IPC menu will not be there. That's down to the BCM which has not and likely will not be updated anytime soon since it is a mission critical module and I'm not willing to brick my daily driver. But more importantly the info like the EV usage breakdown of propulsion vs ambient temp vs climate use is something I'm curious about. Got the IPC in today much earlier than expected. Likely won't be able to do anything with it until the weekend as a family member has my car while theirs is in the shop. But I'll report back when I have any new info to report.

Doesn't exist in earlier model years. Many of those toggles in the IPC don't exist nor can they be enabled. I've tried to add a bunch of these on my 2013 and even when enabled they do not appear. The BCM is too old and not capable of surfacing these toggles.

? On top of this note, a dealer can also do this for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself. Should only be the cost of a half hour or hour labor depending on their minimum charge.

EDIT: Removing post. Same OP from the other thread linked on the same topic.

Plug type matters. Our cars can only handle L1/L2 AC charging via the J1772 connector. L3 or DC charging via either CCS or Chademo connectors will not work and no adapters exist that will make it work. Although not explicitly asked about, Tesla connectors are a weird beast. Superchargers are L3/DC and likewise are impossible to use with the C-Max. There are adapters out there that will allow you to use Tesla 'Destination chargers' or home chargers as they do J1772 internally and are L1/L2 AC. But these are the only cases where that's possible. There was a rumor going around some years back that newer model destination/home chargers were dropping the J1772 compatibility but I'm not sure how that panned out. More technical explanation: L1/L2 AC charging involves the car having an onboard charger built into the vehicle. What you plug in whether it is your included L1 'granny charger' or a public L2 one, they are glorified extension cords with some safety features. Power is fed directly from the grid to the vehicle and the onboard charger does the job of converting that so it can be fed to the battery. L3/DCFC bypasses any onboard chargers and connects straight to the battery. The actual 'charger' that converts grid AC power to DC is in the big industrial fridge sized units that sit near the EVSEs somewhere. This bypasses the onboard charger but the vehicle needs to specifically support it. The C-Max as well as many PHEVs do not. The only current PHEV I'm aware of that can is the Mitsubishi Outlander.

As others have already pointed out, and just summarizing here: The C-Max is not officially rated for towing. Some owners have done some light towing but it is absolutely at your own risk. There are hitches available but are generally designed for use for stuff like bike racks, cargo racks, etc.. Also those from reputable companies will usually have a note saying that your vehicle's tow rating takes precedence over what they list as the rating for the hitch. For example, this is from Torklift's site for the Ecohitch model that I personally have on my 2013: As far as the button on the gearshift, @homestead nailed it. It's just for helping maintain speed going downhill and isn't tied to any towing capability or lack thereof. This button exists on many Ford vehicles including those never intended to tow.

From what I'm seeing, this error code indicates the ABS module saw above 17v power supplied. It's also listed as a historic code in your picture so likely temporary and if it was ever jump started, the process could have triggered this code. U3003:17 - Ford Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis (dtcdecode.com) Related to this code, you could try clearing it out and try getting the ICE to start again. May also be worth verifying what voltage you are getting on the 12v/LV side to make sure it is in spec. The highest that you should be seeing while running is up in the high 14s. Anything 15 or higher is bad. On the opposite end, nothing below 12v should be seen while running. By 'running' I mean when the vehicle is on/Ready to Drive. The ICE does not need to be running to see active charging voltages. Do you have any other codes? CEL light on? Wrench light? If the ICE is legitimately not wanting to run, the vehicle should have more telltales going on telling you something is wrong and why. Also being a hybrid and seeing the battery gauge up that high is indicating the ICE has been supplying power somewhere to recharge it. If you're just relying on the assumption the ICE will start when you turn the key/press the start button, it likely won't do so at such a high charge level. As a quick test, with the vehicle 'on' and in Ready to Drive mode: While remaining in Park, press the accelerator down and hold it (doesn't need to be all the way to the floor but does need to be depressed to some degree). This should force the ICE to start and run if all is operating well. That's about all that I can input on this without more details such as any additional codes, lights on the dash, and especially more detailed info on how the vehicle is behaving when you try or expect the ICE to run.

Just as an FYI, this is specifically the ACM which is a separate module from the Sync system/APIM. It's well known on these vehicles and possibly some other models. Ford has a TSB for this same exact concern on the Fusion. The fuse pull noted above is a temporary workaround but will get things operating again for an undetermined period of time. For a full fix, the calibration/firmware on the ACM needs to be updated. The dealer may balk at this considering nothing has been officially documented for the C-Max (likely a combination of low production volume and of so many people just using the fuse pull workaround and never getting it properly diagnosed/fixed for them to document) but you can have them look up info for the Fusion and they should be able to locate the info on this. SSM46440 Ford Technical Service Bulletin (tsbsearch.com) C-Max specific TSB:

Yep. The only time the turning radius has bothered me personally has been maybe two or three times tops in my ~6 years of ownership now. As far as the WHY? My semi-educated guess is something mechanical may be restricting how far the steering components can travel. I bet if one had access to a lift and checked it out from underneath, all underbody covers removed of course, while turning lock to lock you could probably get an idea if there's something there getting in the way. I would do this myself but don't have access to a lift. I've wanted to get a set of those 'sled' style compact lifts for home garages but they are quite a bit out of my price range.

No worries on the late reply. I've been a bit MIA here and other boards as well the past couple months dealing with other life matters. Appreciate the info though! I'll then see if I can get that sheet updated with this extra info. As far as the AC light, that's still an 'issue' if you can call it that. There's a jailbreak mod available to fix it though if one was inclined to go that route. For anyone else reading, I absolutely will not discuss JB stuff further than this for reasons. It's up to you to go track down on your own.

Unless you have other battery drain issues, I wouldn't worry too much about the 12v battery and cold weather. Unlike traditional ICE only vehicles, these only use a comparatively tiny amount of juice from the 12v battery to start. It's just used long enough to get all the computer modules woken up and running. If the ICE needs to spin over, that is done by the HVB. And likewise just as a note since it trips some new owners up who aren't familiar with hybrid vehicles: No alternator in these. Instead there's a solid state DC-DC converter which takes power from the HVB and converts down to the 12+V for the 12v battery and auxillary systems. This is in full operation any time the vehicle is in Ready to Drive mode (the green vehicle indicator with the arros on the dash) whether the ICE is running or not. Also as @SnowStormpointed out, plugging in an Energi model via the EVSE also has limited capabilities to charge and top up the 12v battery. Under normal operation while the HVB is charging, it'll keep the 12v battery maintained since that's needed to operate the necessary modules during this process. Once the HVB is charged, the 12v battery will continue to charge until the vehicle is satisfied that it is topped up. Once this is complete it will completely shut down and the vehicle will go to sleep. It WILL NOT initiate additional charge cycles on its own unless you actively wake the vehicle by opening a door or unplugging/replugging the EVSE. If you do want to add a battery tender, there are a couple options available: 1) Some owners have added a 12v cigar lighter plug and utilized the socket in the cargo area. This is hot at all times and gives a fused, direct feed to the 12v battery. 2) Use the jump start terminals under the hood. You'll only be able to use the 'alligator clamp' style connections here. 3) You can dig in and attach leads to the 12v battery directly. You will want to make sure this is wired up AFTER the current sensors installed on the factory leads. This will allow the vehicle to be aware of the energy you are putting in and manage the battery accordingly. I have a thread where I detailed an inverter install and there are pictures showing where I wired it up which may be helpful:

The TCU is still needed for Value Charging and Go Times features to function if those are in use. This remains the case with the old 3G modems and no cell service. While they can be unplugged, it is a royal pain to get to. It's behind the driver side trim panel in the cargo area in the back and requires taking out almost all of the trim panels in the cargo area to get that far. It's also shared with the same fuse as the APIM so removing that will disable the APIM as well. From what I have seen on various boards, there have been zero mentions of any abnormal 12v battery drain issues after the 3G shutdown or any relation to the TCU as such so at best I'd ignore that as a potential culprit except if everything else has been ruled out first.

Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Warning Indicator Flashes The TPMS warning indicator flashes for 70 seconds and then remains on continuously when the ignition is set to ON and the TPMS is malfunctioning. The Parameter Identification (PID) TP_STAT can be used to determine why the TPMS warning indicator is flashing. Tire Pressure Sensor Fault — The message center displays TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR FAULT when a TPMS sensor is malfunctioning. No communication with the BCM — The TPMS warning indicator illuminates when the IPC has not received any signals from the BCM for more than 5 seconds. The message center displays TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR FAULT. Tire Pressure Monitor Fault — The message center displays TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR FAULT when the TPMS is malfunctioning. TPMS Parameter Identification (PID) Definitions The BCM monitors the TPMS status. The current status can be viewed by accessing the TPMS status Parameter Identification (PID): TPMS_STAT using the scan tool. This helps identify the current system status and may aid in diagnosing the system. The Parameter Identification (PID) has 4 valid states: TPMS_STAT = SENSOR FAULT: If the BCM has not received the tire pressure data from 1 to 3 TPMS sensors for 20 minutes when vehicle speed is above 32.2 km/h (20 mph), the Parameter Identification (PID) displays SENSOR FAULT. TPMS_STAT = SYSTEM FAULT: If the BCM has not received the tire pressure data from all 4 TPMS sensors for 20 minutes when vehicle speed is above 32.2 km/h (20 mph), the Parameter Identification (PID) displays SYSTEM FAULT. TPMS_STAT = LOW: If the BCM has detected that at least 1 TPMS sensor is reporting low tire pressure, the Parameter Identification (PID) displays LOW. TPMS_STAT = ACTIVE: If the TPMS is functioning normally, the Parameter Identification (PID) displays ACTIVE. Last Warning Event Parameter Identification (PID) Definitions The TPMS uses the TPMS last warning event Parameter Identifications (PIDs) to store detailed information about the last 5 times the TPMS warning indicator was activated. These Parameter Identifications (PIDs) can be used to acquire more information about a particular TPMS event, but must be used carefully. PIDs Definition EVT1_AGE_IGN through EVT5_AGE_IGN The number of key cycles since the TPMS was activated. This Parameter Identification (PID) cycles from zero to 255 and then starts over from zero again. This can be used to determine how long ago a TPMS event occurred and the time (in key cycles) between events. EVT1_TR_LOC through EVT5_TR_LOC This is the last programmed location for the TPMS sensor identifier causing each TPMS event. Due to tire rotation, the sensor may no longer be at the original location. It is suggested that all the Parameter Identifications (PIDs) be recorded, the system retrained, and then the sensor identifier Parameter Identifications (PIDs) be used to pinpoint the actual location of each sensor. EVT1_PSI through EVT5_PSI This is the tire pressure associated with each TPMS indicator event. This can be used along with the function code to clearly identify the TPMS events that were strictly due to low pressure. It can also be used to determine when a sensor is transmitting inaccurate tire pressure. EVT1_SNSR_ST through EVT5_SNSR_ST Describes the warning status of each TPMS event by using the information received from the TPMS_STAT Parameter Identification (PID). If there is a communication concern, the status could be NORMAL. UNKNOWN NORMAL (normal operation) LOW (low pressure event) FAULT (sensor fault or system fault) EVT1_SNSR_ID through EVT5_SNSR_ID This is the identifier of the sensor involved in each TPMS event. EVT1 is the most recent event that triggered the TPMS warning indicator.

There is an option to turn it (Tire Mobility Kit) off altogether in Forscan in the IPC. Something I haven't gotten to yet on my 2013. I'll probably play with it this weekend and post in the mods thread. I need to add climate stuff there too. TPMS: Not sure if mine have ever been replaced when I've gotten new tires. If they are still original, they've been behaving just fine. Not a single blip out of it. Last I recall looking at the workshop manual, I think it had conditions for lighting or flashing the TPMS light if the sensors were inop. I'll review that again here this evening to confirm as well.