kc1174

Cheers!

Sorry to hear that - I'm already onto dealer #3, after a tire rotation that didn't happen, and a 4 hours MFT update that they said they did and then Ford sync support told me the dealer didn't attempt. Fortunately I have a year or 21,000 miles to get it fixed and a 5/100k esp after that.

Thanks - Sorry, should have included some more info. I've been monitoring the 12v with my scangauge and seeing how the blower acts when other things are running (radio, lights, engine off/on, ice vs. hvb etc.). Also tried it without the cabin air filter but no change. Figure it's something to do with the blower motor, but not sure. I am one of those who had the 12v discharge issues, but that was fixed when I bought a new coolant pump and pigtail harness of my own and had Ford fit it for me, so that wasn't the issue.Edit: Also bought a new 12v battery a few weeks after replacing the coolant pump, and am up to date on the multitude of recalls we've had. Just seems like the blower motor is bad.

Thanks. Yep, I've tried both auto and manual and recirc and outside air. It's just randomly surging. Has been like this since day one in Jan 2013. At first I figured it was supposed to be like this, but I took it in and showed them but nothing happened. I may just try another dealer, but wanted to see if anyone with this issue had it resolved and what the resolution was.

Did anyone with this issue find a resolution? My 2013 SE does it too, and I took it in a few months ago, but the dealer said they couldn't replicate it (the standard response).

Not sure if this is by design (the manual says nothing), but does anyone know if there's a way to use the windshield vents without the AC being on? Whenever I try, the AC shows as off in the climate control panel, but the live climate energy usage shows the AC is being used. Would rather just blow warm air at the windshield..

Cost me about $500 total, but I basically got this TSB done myself. Pigtail off fdmotorparts and the coolant pump off... Amazon.. Strangely enough. Labor was about $200. The last check off Ford paid for it, so I see it as awash. I had about 5 dead car experiences, and none since I got this done in Sept. If you really want to check that connector, it's hot, so disconnect the 12v in the trunk first. The connector is blue and on the passenger side front of the engine just above that engine bay splash guard under the car. http://www.fordfusionclub.com/showthread.php?t=618641 For what it's worth, I'm waiting on the VW bluemotion 1.6TDI to show up over here. 60+ mpg and no more messing about. Good luck.

Like most software, they add an expiration date to make sure folk keep up to date. Doesn't really apply to us though, because we still have the same car where dealers have new model years to support.

Cool! What build date is your car btw? Mine is August 2012, and had to cut the slots in the engine bay shield and drill holes where you connected using the push pin connectors. Just wonder if yours is maybe a newer shield, and maybe they'd already started on the 2014 parts, so installed a 2014 shield, less the deflectors. I'd have a check round the back end in front of the rear wheels and see if you have any holes for the rear deflectors too!

I think this one would be fine. It has no photo of the disc, but the screenshots are the same as mine. Can't go wrong for $19 :) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Ford-Service-Manual-dvd-C-Max-Hybrid-Energi-SE-SEL-Escape-S-SE-Titanium-/141350103076?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item20e91f6824&vxp=mtr

Yeah 11/5/2013 I bought it from a seller called fopa13 on eBay. 3 discs - 2012, 2013 and 2014 model years and the 2013 and 2014 had the C-Max. Mine were $48 for the three discs. The link up above with the $18 or $19 DVD is the same I have by the looks of it, except it's a newer version. I've seen some on eBay for $170 or so, and they're the exact same thing.

I bought one of those cheap DVDs off eBay, and to be honest, it's helped me out a lot. Yeah it's a burned copy of the official Ford one, and you have to backdate your PC, but it's worked out fine for me. Also have the wiring diagrams book. Is a bit confusing at first, but again, it's come in handy. I think I paid $30 for mine, but here's one on eBay. I've seen more available before now: http://m.ebay.com/itm/371153154948?nav=SEARCH

It's the stock antenna lol Looks better from above (aside from the orange patch) :) I'll keep you posted with what's going on. Since it's white, this may be happening with others but just not noticeable so best I get it checked out. I did by the way check inside the headliner with a torch from the hatch, and it looks OK inside. May just be oxidation but need to be sure and wanted to see if others had seen the same :)

Cheers - yup looks like I'll have to get it checked out when I go in for the latest recall. Had all sorts of bodywork problems with this - in particular the rear hatch that keeps to this day moving out of alignment. Every few months or so it's moved enough to warrant another visit to the dealer. I'd rather not, because I do like the car, but this is looking more and more like a lemon.

Was just out cleaning the car by hand as I usually do. In front of the roof antenna, there's a relatively large area of what looks like rust. Being a white car, it's easy to spot. Has anyone else seen this on theirs? If it's normal, I'll have to use a clay bar on it like I did most of the rail dust last year. Image is below - hopefully the resolution shows what's up. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/uploads/gallery/album_106/gallery_504_106_773818.jpg

Btw, I'll be asking for the old pump back, so will see what it looks like and will post up photos. Might be next weekend. The connector - well, if it's corroded that's something they'll have to take care of. And I'll insist on them covering the connector with silicone adhesive too assuming the heat there will allow it. Then I'll go find a storm somewhere. I'll report back when all this is done though.

Cool - well at the least it's documented as another real attempt by Ford to fix the same 12v issue, which may, depending on your state, bring you closer to the point at which lemon law comes into effect, if that's what you choose. Plus your car got a new piece added to it :) I ordered a new OEM water pump off eBay for about $30 last night from a company called Tasca in CT #DS7Z-8501-C. I've decided since my car only dies after heavy rain, and during that rain prior to it dying, my electric usage gauge in My View under the AC one is past 5kw (is normally just under 1kw), there's a short going on caused by that rain. So anyway, if Ford won't fix it and instead want to mess around with other stuff, I'll just take the car and the new pump in, and have them fit it along with a roll of 3M temflex cloth tape and pay to have them fix it and also go over all the wiring in the bay, and tidy up all the loose taping on all the wiring in there - the electric tape is all over the place in mine.. Shouldn't really have to pay to get it working, but it saves leaving it with them for days I suppose. Last time they said they checked the connectors on the water pump, I dropped some wax on the join - the wax was still there afterwards, so it'll be another dealer that gets my money this time. Meh... :)

Uh oh, step 5 of the TSB says "is the vehicle an Energi built on or before 9/12/2013" yes = replace the TCU module (what they installed) no = go to step 6, then check for wiring chafing in the rear liftgate and drivers side door of the car (not specified if hybrid or Energi, so presume both) if built on or before 6/3/2013. The TSB itself is on another thread here in pdf format. Am on my cell out of the house or I'd tidy this up with a link or the pdf itself, but you might want to ask the dealer or Ford why you had to wait a week for a part the TSB says isn't supposed to be replaced :/

That TSB is missing a couple of key steps. 1. Drive through a storm/wash car/stick a hose on full up under the front. 2. Observe if central locking opens the car after a few hours. If central locking works, customer likely left a cellphone charger plugged in. Hand over our sarcastic letter attached to this TSB. If car does not unlock, jump start the car and inform customer you cannot replicate the concern.

Btw, the fuse puller - it's in the fuse box in the engine bay...

There aren't any spare fuses in there - but - there are fuses in there that may not be used depending on which model you have, or what additional items you have. For example, mine doesn't have factory fog lights, but it has a fuse for them. I wouldn't use them as a spare for anything else though. I leave them where they are just incase. That fog fuse may be working something else.

I'm sure it's something you've already looked at but can you check if pulling fuse F2 in the engine bay stops the drop? That's the water pump.

Yeah the one I posted up earlier is the one I use. Boxed, with all the gizmos it fits in the glovebox on the shelf easily. Unboxed, it'll go anywhere - underseat compartment, armrest compartment. Not sure how or why, but it's supposed to provide a few jumpstarts, but with the Max, I've rarely had to recharge this thing. Connect it up, you hear a click in the engine bay somewhere, fire it up and unhook it within 10 secs. I'm sure somewhere in this thread there's an explanation why, but that click suggests a "jumpstart" in the C-max isn't a traditional jumpstart. Before I turn the key, it seems like it's ready - as if the click tells the high voltage battery it's ok to recharge the 12v (kinda like an alternator on a regular car)... Or something like that. It's like the car goes into a safe mode due to a short, and connecting the jumpstarter is like hitting reset. Of course I could be talking out of my rear end, it's just not a usual jumpstart. Next time I find it dead, I'll see if I can just connect the jumpstarter, hear the click, unhook the jumpstarter and then see if it starts... Item here btw: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D42AFS8/