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So I think this might be saying that when the engine is used to slow down the car, the transmission is being cooled. Is that how you see it ? I assume this would be for the hybrid.

I am hesitate to ask because it sounds like your joking, but please explain about the "Ford location finder app."

Too bad there isn't a website (insert dealer name)_horror_stories.com for you to post that post. That might get their attention. Though you might write Honda corporate. They don't like bad publicity for there Good Car image. I actually have called them about my Dad's transmission, 2000 Accord, and after some persistence, got them to subsidize a faulty transmission replacement. Marc, your post #10, awesome.

I suspect the service advisor's and the mechanics are getting a commission which blinds their humanity.

So I installed Forscan Lite. I like it better that Torque, way better(for me it certainly does transmission temperature better). I am going on trip of about 250 miles on Wednesday. I hope to do some transmission temperature monitoring. I have it install on an ASUS 7" android tablet with 1024x600 resolution display - not IPS. I paid like $60 for it. Seems fine. It does work with a cheapo bluetooth OBD. The tablet can sit horizontally over the speedometer blocking the lower mph's but not the faster ones, and blocking the mostly useless 2013 indicators on the right. I did program and save 3 screens of stuff but I will have to play with it to figure how to switch between them. It took a couple passes to figure out how to minimally use the software. One thing I know now is that when I power on, I need to disconnect the OBD and then reconnect within the android settings. Those setting seem to show it paired up on power up when it really isn't. Plus 3 Golfer Thanks for starting this thread letting me know about Forscan Lite. I am curious how these guys got all these codes while Torque does not have them.

Just a long shot but did you get new tires around the same time? New tires, even the same kind, have higher rolling resistance and a greater circumference which will lower car calculated mpg. I do not have a noticeable drop.

Why do you not crisscross them on the first 10kmi ? Later: OK I kind of get it. Really I want to switch the left and right back tires on the back, but that does not offload the wearing of the tires on the front.

Whoa ! Awesome. Do you mostly do highway driving ? I play with coasting down hills in neutral and it seems to do better now that the front tires have less tread. I would suspect at the wear indicators your car could do some fine coasting. Has your gas mileage gone up as the tire have worn ?

You might want to message the ford rep for this site to see if she can help. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/user/1579-fordservice/

Some reviews of tires from C-Max owners http://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?autoMake=Ford&autoModel=C-MAX+Hybrid&autoYear=2014&autoModClar=SE&commentStatus=P&additionalComments=Y&index=0&category=vehicle One interesting note from one of the reviews "With traction control off, tires will do slightly better in snow, but Ford buries that option deep in the menu (shameful and dangerous)." I am not sure that this is the case in all situations but if I am ever stuck I might try this. Last year I feared I was going to get stuck on some icy snow on a slanted parking lot, but I realized that with traction control I just needed take it slow and let the car do the work, can't use the same rocking skills I learned on older cars. ( I do have a set of cable chains, if stuck ) My impression from reading the reviews - the OEM Michelin's get great mileage. I will probably be getting a pair of new tires for the front before the winter driving. I am hoping to see some tires come out that rival the Michelin or do better. I was reading somewhere that it is not hard to make tires that have low rolling resistance, but it is challenging to do it and have comfort and handling and safety.

Dr Diesel had ideas on why the transmissions were failing (pump), recognizing the severity of the design problem which was fixed midstream 2013 and traded his 2013 for something like a 2014 energi, so I don't think they are the same.

Ouch

yes http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/361-battery-dead/

I noticed changes that may have been from this update. The radio does not continue to play after the key is out and the door is opened. When I brake, there used to be some flashing on the recharge up arrow and now there is no flashing.

Get a 2014. Look on cars.com, you might be able to get a new one for close to the same money. Some of the 2013s have to get transmissions replaced and if not under warrantee it is expensive. It is not clear when the fix was put in, I would say late in the year. If you are sold on the car, the dealer should throw in the longest, furthest, zero deductible extended warrantee.

I recently started using Torque OBD. I did select the Ford codes. I have noticed a lot of the items that are "pre-programmed" do not work. I have also started to enter in the formulas of the hybrid codes. It sounds like this software will have a higher percent of pre-programmed codes that work. Is that correct. Is there capacity to enter other formulas ? Are the formulas for the hybrid functions already in there ? such as these: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2757-obd2-%E2%80%93-elm-327-%E2%80%93-torque/?p=33841 Thanks.

Just had my third electrical shutdown this past Monday. My portable jumper worked fine. Dealer couldn't work on car until Wednesday so at dealer now. I assume they will do 15B04. I am considering the lemon law option.

Nice research and nice find.

I think you may be on to a million dollar idea. Fixing transmissions and the pissed off owners whose transmissions fail that Ford won't fix cost a lot of money.

So what I think you figured out is that the hot transmission happens when the car thinks it is not warmed up yet.

That is cool. It even has updated mpg numbers.

Was that covered under warranty ?

I assume that the rear tires can not be re-aligned. Is that true ?

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4109-tire-noise/?p=57070

I rotated my tires at 14500 (first time) and the tires were noisy up front, really bad, like a wheel bearing. I rotated them back and the noise lessened. I read this and did the remount inside to the outside on the rear tires. After one day of driving a few miles I am optimistic it has substantially improved. I want to give it a week to really test them out more for it was not real irritating at all times. So far I have not been irritated. It did seem to have a different sound at different speeds and time from cold. The rear tires have lots of tread. The fronts are getting low. I may just replace the fronts before the winter or rotate the tires. The rears should be warn in by then. My rear tires do seem to have a subtle but irregular wear pattern, which is now on the outside. I looked at them after a drive. The original tires have islands of tread on the outside that have a thin emptiness(line) through them. It seems like one part of the island is higher at this time than the other part, while the inside islands which were on the outside seem even. (I say this because the color was different. They actually are not obviously a different height.) (this was my first glance. If not accurate, I will correct the best I can.) Thanks for the idea. At some point I may also reverse sides (a la ptjones). The place that did the work said they can tell if it will work before doing it. I told them to just do it. They may have been sizing me up for new tires. After this I started to put 46 psi in my tires. I was running 50. I wonder if this "cupping" is a characteristic of these tires and not other tires, or a characteristic of the car suspension, or something else. UPDATE: After another day of driving, the tires have not had the irritating sound. They sound like tires that are a bit on the noisy side.