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SOUND SYSTEM QUIT WORKING TODAY


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Sounds like an intermittent connection.  Could pop open the dash cover and reseat/clean the connectors.

For the Microsoft problems maybe we need a reset button on the dash to temporarily  break the power 

so it will reboot.

Luckily ours has only glitched a couple times in 4.5 years and it fixed itself next time car was restarted.

If it keeps it up, I guess I'll have to try cleaning things but hate to think of tearing into the dash.

 

As to a reset button, that might be OK in a car but it reminds me of something from the early '80s.  I was working on avioncs for biz jets and we were just starting to use digital technology (microcontrollers) instead of analog designs.  Some of us had gone out to Cessna to discuss the latest design and it was suggest that a reset button be placed in the cockpit so the pilot could reset the system if it happened to "lock up"!  Well, that didn't fly at all with Cessna - no reset button!  We had to design an "activity monitor" to reset the processor automatically if it locked up.  Now-a-days these circuits are built in the microcontrollers and called "watchdogs".  If you don't properly "pet" the watchdog, it goes off and resets things.

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Sounds like an intermittent connection. Could pop open the dash cover and reseat/clean the connectors.

For the Microsoft problems maybe we need a reset button on the dash to temporarily break the power

so it will reboot.

Luckily ours has only glitched a couple times in 4.5 years and it fixed itself next time car was restarted.

Spoke too soon, radio froze this morning. Popped out F79 fuse under glove box and its working again.

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  • 4 weeks later...

This just happened yesterday we were driving had a cd in all was fine my wife got a call on her phone which was connected through Bluetooth. I know when a call comes in the music will go down and when it rings through. when she accepted the call we couldn't hear anything it said the call was connected, they hung up and tried again answered still not hearing anything. So checking a few things the voice controls did nothing and we tried to change to fm station still no sound. anyway my wife she decides to disconnect her phone from Bluetooth so she could receive the call bam everything started working. Not sure it was directly related to the bluetooth or what the hiccup was but hope it doesn't happen again.

                                                                               404319.png

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  • 1 month later...

Just want to document that this also happened to us today for the first time.  It's a 2013 C-Max Energi

1) Car runs fine.  
2) Touching the audio on/off button next to the volume knob with the car off activates the screen in what looks like accessory mode.  
3) Touching the SOUND button takes it to the screen where you tailor bass/treble etc. 
4) Pressing the car start button turns the car on, but the screen doesn't respond to any audio related functions (except item 3 above). 
5) That audio on/off button next to the volume knob with the car ON has no effect.  
6) Phones will connect via bluetooth and make calls, but no sound is heard.  

 

We will try pulling the fuses 67/69 and 79 and edit this note or post again.  

-Ron

 

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My sound system has quit several times. But this time, after the radio quit, the whole car would not start. After I jumped it and got it to the dealer, everything worked fine. They say I need a new APIM module. Can the APIM and the battery be connected?

 

Absolutely.  There are over two dozen computers in the C-Max that must turn on and off in the proper sequence.  A dead 12V battery is very likely if one or more of the modules fails to shut down properly.  The APIM and ACM are the usual suspects.

 

 

Cheers.

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  • 3 months later...

My radio/AV input quit working today in my Energi.  Audio would not turn on.  Could not select AM etc.  First time in nearly 5 years.  Pulled 67 and it still wouldn't work.  Pulled 67 and 79, waited a minute, put them back in and it works again.

 

A small curse to the Ford engineers that put the fuse panel in such a difficult place.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...

My 2013 CMax has been doing the same thing that Georgegmx and others had mentioned. The loud crackling noise followed by the sound system dying. In the beginning I was able to get it to work by turning off the car, opening the door, closing it and restarting the car again. But then it because more and more frequent till it stopped turning on at all. It let out many many death cries of the loud, very loud, crackling noise before it finally stopped working. We tried the system reset with the 67 or 69 and 79 fuses with no luck. The Ford dealership repair people here have no idea and have put in a call to the to the Ford engineers for guidance after replacing the computer module system with no change to the situation. Could the ' The APIM and ACM are the usual suspects." be the case here as Bill-N mentioned? Any help is much appreciated!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I left my CMAX without starting for almost two weeks and the physical radio buttons stopped working part of the way driving around town.  Press power or eject and no response, then the AMP stopped working (no audio from radio, but audio from turn signals okay), then the touchscreen started lagging and acting up.

 

I pulled fuse 67 under glove box on passenger side to reboot APIM -- (please wait while windows performs scheduled maintenance ) but that did not really resolve the issue.

 

I pulled fuse 79 and that seemed to do the trick, the amp output was back and physical radio controls started working again.

 

The only other problem was I had tried a "Master Reset" first so I had to re-pair my phone and reprogram all the Sync customization I had done.

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  • 6 months later...
On 12/31/2017 at 10:29 AM, SnowStorm said:

Our radio has started acting up over the last few weeks.  You will be driving along and there will be a sudden loud burst of "noise", like static, for a split second.  Afterwards the radio won't turn on.  When you repeatedly press the volume knob to turn it on it will cycle between no response and flashing a bit of colored bars/box on the screen.  Restarting the car seems to fix it - so far.  It has been cold weather of course - don't know if problem is temperature related or if it just started on its own.  We do not have the touchscreen - 2013 SE.  Any ideas?

I have had this issue. Now, it no longer works at all but the static is still there is really cold weather. Anyone know the resolution? They want to replace a chip for 500 bucks, now that my stereo no longer works, but while it was acting up they couldn't figure it out since they couldn't replicate the noise. 

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Mine is still dead - I guess.  I have just left the fuse out to get rid of the noise.  But no radio and no car-connected phone is getting old.  If I didn't have so many projects I'd like to tear into it and see if I could find the problem.  Way back, my dealer thought it was probably the 'radio' and it would cost like $500 also.

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Yesterday on the way to the dealer for another issue I realized my radio sound wouldn't adjust, I couldn't change stations or bands.  The weirdest part is I couldn't turn the radio off, even if I turned the car off.  The dealer tells me it needs a new audio module and it would cost $684 parts and labor.  I decline and have them pull the fuse to keep the battery from draining.  After reading this post I reinstalled the fuse this morning and everything is working normally.  2013 SEL.

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As has been well discussed previously on these: The noted fuse pull workaround should do the trick every time. The proper fix is to get the ACM updated with a current calibration. This has been documented in TSBs for other Ford models. If you're comfortable with using ForScan and have a license and good adapter, you can do the calibration update yourself easily and it's about 10-15 minutes of time to do.

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  • 7 months later...
On 5/12/2013 at 3:21 PM, BWP said:

A big thanks to Adair and Lauren!  Per the thread they directed me to, I pulled fuses 69 and 79 (underneath the glove box) ran the car with ICE for 5 minutes, reinserted the fuses, and problem solved.  The inaccessible entertainment screen and voice functions came back online.

 

Good on this forum to help folks solve these type problems.

 

Not so good on Ford service for not knowing this.   The C-Max may be new, but the thread that helped me was also for the Sync system on a 2011 Edge.  Seems to me that frozen screen issues have been around a while.  

 

Bottomline, I'm happy to have this problem solved.  Thanks again.

Thanks !! Worked like a charm, 2013 CMax. 

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  • 3 months later...
On 5/12/2013 at 1:21 PM, BWP said:

A big thanks to Adair and Lauren!  Per the thread they directed me to, I pulled fuses 69 and 79 (underneath the glove box) ran the car with ICE for 5 minutes, reinserted the fuses, and problem solved.  The inaccessible entertainment screen and voice functions came back online.

 

Good on this forum to help folks solve these type problems.

 

Not so good on Ford service for not knowing this.   The C-Max may be new, but the thread that helped me was also for the Sync system on a 2011 Edge.  Seems to me that frozen screen issues have been around a while.  

 

Bottomline, I'm happy to have this problem solved.  Thanks again.

I had it happened, reinserted the fuses and it worked for a time. Now it's off again (it happened to me few times last year). Does anybody know what causes it? I think reinserting the fuses is only temporary fix ?

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On 3/6/2023 at 4:17 PM, ula1313 said:

I had it happened, reinserted the fuses and it worked for a time. Now it's off again (it happened to me few times last year). Does anybody know what causes it? I think reinserting the fuses is only temporary fix ?

 

?

 

On 4/8/2022 at 11:27 PM, cr08 said:

As has been well discussed previously on these: The noted fuse pull workaround should do the trick every time. The proper fix is to get the ACM updated with a current calibration. This has been documented in TSBs for other Ford models. If you're comfortable with using ForScan and have a license and good adapter, you can do the calibration update yourself easily and it's about 10-15 minutes of time to do.

 

On top of this note, a dealer can also do this for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself. Should only be the cost of a half hour or hour labor depending on their minimum charge.

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