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The battery is almost never going to die while the car is running, or just after you stop. As long as the car is on, the 12v battery is getting charged from the HV battery, and has almost no load on it. You aren't going to lose running lights, power steering, or door locks while the car is in motion or while stopped on the side of the road, at least not for a basic 12v battery death. In fact, once the car is turned on, you could probably remove the 12v battery entirely and operate normally all day (just don't turn it off). The problem we have is that something slowly drains the battery over many hours, and the battery just doesn't have enough juice to handle that overnight. Do this repeatedly, and the battery capacity drops, making it more vulnerable over a shorter time, so you might see issues after being parked for 4 hours instead of 8.

 

That said, it's always a pain to find your car electrically dead in the morning when you need to get to work, and Ford does need to find/fix whatever is draining the battery. If they can't figure that out, then invoking lemon laws is not unreasonable.

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That said, it's always a pain to find your car electrically dead in the morning when you need to get to work, and Ford does need to find/fix whatever is draining the battery. If they can't figure that out, then invoking lemon laws is not unreasonable.

 

Absolutely agree MikeB.

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Ted

 

 

 

Mike B and Mbedit are correct about the doors: they will open from the inside even with the battery dead and can be opened from the outside with the key. Mike B is correct that the 12 volt failures can only occur when the car has been parked for some time, and cannot occur whle the car is being driven. The battery problem can render the car useless, which makes the problem suitable for Lemon Law cases, but it is not a safety problem.

 

About your attempt to invoke the Lemon Law: I looked at your posts, in which you report the number of dead battery episodes, but not the number of repair attempts. As you can see from the text of the Lemon Law in California, it is the number of repair attempts that counts.

 

Also, your posts make it sound (and perhaps this is a mis-readng on my part) as if you asked Ford to consider making a buy back offer, as opposed to giving Ford a polite but firm demand for a buy back in which you make the case yourself. Forgive me if my inference is wrong. Either way, Mbedit is correct that you need to assemble the case for a buy back with care and make sure you have dotted all the i's and crossed all the t's. Be very firm and clear by citing the legal requirements and demonstrating with documents that your case meets them, and always be polite. You can do this on your own. Just take your time and triple check all your records and the letter you write before you send it. If you follow the letter of the law and if Ford refuses you, then you can try telling Ford (always in writing) that you will see a lawyer. And if that does not work you can actually go see a lawyer. But all the experiences reported on this forum indicate that Ford has been reasonable in buy back cases concerning the CMax battery problems.

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always be polite. 

 

I can't begin to tell you how important this is! The situation may be frustrating at times, but its important to remain calm, level head and polite at all times. It can be the difference between getting someone at the dealership or Ford to become your advocate rather than indifferent to your situation.

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Ever since getting the car over a month ago I have been trying to consistantly check the 12v battery voltage. Typically I have checked the voltage in the morning before going to work after the car has been sitting overnight in the garage.

 

If you're checking the voltage that often it might be worth getting one of the little voltmeters that plug in to the cigarette lighter.

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/190-2423816-1183555?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=car%20volt%20meter

 

I wouldn't spend the money on a Scangauge just for this function but if you were thinking of getting one it can show the battery voltage.

Edited by viajero
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since the 2014s order guide is already out and i think they start taking orders in July maybe you could get a 14. surely the bugs will be worked out and they will have all the updates already installed from the factory so no need to go in to the dealer right away (until the next major rev change)  knock on vinyl. ;)

 

 

I haven't decided what I would do next, yet.  It depends on how long it takes, etc. since my options may be different, for example, if it spills into the next model year.

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It will be interesting to see if the 2014 models have a dramatically redesigned system of electrical controls, switches and software. If they knew the cuase of the 12 volt problems in the 2013 then they could target it surgically for the 2014, but they don't seem to know the cause or causes of the problems. That leaves them the option of a sweeping change for 2014.

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I just had my first dead battery. I have an SEL built 2/2/13. After roadside assistance jumped it the car is running fine but I had to do a master reset on Sync to get it working correctly. I still have an issue with the drivers side windows. They will auto down but will not auto up. Has anyone had similar issues, if so what do I need to so the windows work correctly. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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If you're checking the voltage that often it might be worth getting one of the little voltmeters that plug in to the cigarette lighter.

 

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2/190-2423816-1183555?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=car%20volt%20meter

 

I wouldn't spend the money on a Scangauge just for this function but if you were thinking of getting one it can show the battery voltage.

 

I don't check it every day. Maybe 2-3 times a week. It only takes a minute to check voltage under the hood so I don't consider it a hassle. Actually I think it is a good thing to get under the hood once in a while.

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There is a "bounce-back" feature that must be reset after the battery is disconnected and this may solve your issue.

 

Resetting the Bounce-Back Feature
WARNING: The bounce-back function remains deactivated until
you have reset the memory.
You must reset the bounce-back memory separately for each window
after the battery has been disconnected.
1. Lift and hold the switch until the window is fully closed.
2. Release the switch.
3. Lift the switch again for one more second.
4. Press and hold the switch until the window is fully open.
5. Release the switch

 

I just had my first dead battery. I have an SEL built 2/2/13. After roadside assistance jumped it the car is running fine but I had to do a master reset on Sync to get it working correctly. I still have an issue with the drivers side windows. They will auto down but will not auto up. Has anyone had similar issues, if so what do I need to so the windows work correctly. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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Got my car back this afternoon.  They did a couple of updates TSB 13-5-1 (12 volt battery unable to hold a charge), TSB 13-4-22 (Wrench Lamp with DTC P061A/U1011/P060C - Reduction in vehicle power), and  TSB 13-6-22 (Hybrid/Energi - Check Engine and/or wrench lamp and various DTCS).

 

On the clock not advancing (since I jumped it) - From the service tech to engineering: "Any known concerns for this problem tried unhooking the battery and setting clock multiple times and only the cluster changes and the radio display stays the same."  Ford Engineering response - "Clock accuracy concerns are currently being investigated by engineering.  Please continue to monitor OASIS for updates for this concern."    But I left the lot with the clock not advancing. You can go through the set menu and when you hit enter nothing happens.

So I finally got the clock to work properly...changed to 24hr format, set the time and it displayed correctly.  A few days later I changed back to 12 hr format and it is right.

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that did the trick! Thanks so much for the help!

 

 

There is a "bounce-back" feature that must be reset after the battery is disconnected and this may solve your issue.

 

Resetting the Bounce-Back Feature
WARNING: The bounce-back function remains deactivated until
you have reset the memory.
You must reset the bounce-back memory separately for each window
after the battery has been disconnected.
1. Lift and hold the switch until the window is fully closed.
2. Release the switch.
3. Lift the switch again for one more second.
4. Press and hold the switch until the window is fully open.
5. Release the switch
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DEAD BATTERY.PARKED CAR OVERNITE AND IN MORNING ALL IS DEAD!!!!!

ALSO VERY DISAPPOINTED THAT I  BOUGHT THIS CAR. HOW THE HELL DO YOU PRODUCE A CAR THAT HAS THOUSANDS OF DEAD BATTERIES. CHARGING SYSTEM/POWER TURNOFF IS DEFECTIVE. A V ERY BAD JOKE. I'M PISSED AT FORD ( Fix Or Repair Daily)

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ALSO VERY DISAPPOINTED THAT I  BOUGHT THIS CAR. HOW THE HELL DO YOU PRODUCE A CAR THAT HAS THOUSANDS OF DEAD BATTERIES.

It might dozens or hundreds out of 10s of thousands. Hard to say, but I and everyone else understand your frustration and anger. Keep us posted on your vehicle and the fixes they apply.
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I have had four dead battery's, been in for service five times. Last dead battery was

April 15, 2013. Almost three full months with out an issue. I hope they have this fixed! It is disheartening to pay $ 28.000 for new car and have this happen. If it does happen again I will finish the lemon law I started. I have all the documents.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We have had our batteries replaced 3 times and this last time they were able to recharge the battery.  Not sure why you would have the towing company jump start your brand new vehicle and not have it towed directly to the dealer? And why would you buy a portable jumper? This is an issue that FORD needs to deal with not the consumer and they need to see what is going on with the vehicle themselves so they can resolve the issue(s).

 

We have contacted Corporate, we have talked with the regional tech guy, we have talked with the sales manager, the service manager, we are not getting anywhere.  

One more occurrence and we will also begin Ohio's Lemon Law.

 

Today, the tech guy requested another 24 hours (our car has been in for 8 days this time) he said he thinks the phone sync system is draining the battery.  He said when you are in hands-free mode and then leave the vehicle and go back to your handset/phone mode that the sync system may not be turning off.  So, if you are talking on the phone when you park your car in the garage for the night that could explain why there is a drain and dead battery in the morning?

 

We have the SE version too and he also said that it is only occurring on the non-touch pad control panel models. He is going to test it tomorrow with his cell phone and see what happens.

 

They have already re-programmed our Cmax once before because we had completely dead batteries, this time is was rechargeable.

 

We had not purchased a CAR in over 15 years and within the first 2 months we started having problems.  Thought we were buying a reliable piece of transportation to drive our kids to and from their activities.  

 

So grateful for finding this forum, only wish I would have found it BEFORE buying the Cmax!!!

Edited by bam48
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Glad that you have found us Bam48, but so sorry to hear about your problems. I hope the tech guy is on to something about the sync/phone thing. Then they can address the cause, not just replace the battery. There has to be some common denominator/s in all of these battery problems. I wonder if anyone at Ford is looking at it from that angle.

 

Please keep us posted on your progress (Pollyanna optimism showing here  :airquote: )

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yes, they are checking ours to see if it is sync related too and if so, they will re-program too.

just curious DBO, why haven't you pursued the Lemon Law or legal action?

i am so sick and tired of dealing with the whole situation, i just want my money back to buy a good old fashion reliable car!  :)

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Update on our SE CMax - they have re-programmed our vehicle with a TSB that will not come out until next week or possibly later. They thought the SYNC computer system never shut off and was draining the battery. They have also included a 3yr/45,000 mile Maintenance Contract and paid 1 car payment up to this point, these things are not making me feel any better about the car though.

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This sounds like something I had happen once, and the Ford engineer did say there was something with the phone sync that was causing an issue. 

 

The interesting thing is this would imply that the habits of some people, e.g. parking and turning off the C-Max while talking on the phone, are a factor to why some people are having the issue and some are not. Though I can't recall changing my habits and my 2nd C-Max has worked w/o issues. At least the dead batter hasn't resurfaced!

 

Today, the tech guy requested another 24 hours (our car has been in for 8 days this time) he said he thinks the phone sync system is draining the battery.  He said when you are in hands-free mode and then leave the vehicle and go back to your handset/phone mode that the sync system may not be turning off.  So, if you are talking on the phone when you park your car in the garage for the night that could explain why there is a drain and dead battery in the morning?

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Many of us (or at least some of us) never use the Sync system but still have experienced dead batteries.

 

The Sync system could still be responsible if it goes on by itself and does not shut. Or there could be multiple causes for dead batteries. Or maybe the Sync system is never a cause.

 

I think we still do not have a good answer as to what is causing the problems.

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but we do know that very few have reported any new dead battery stories here in quite some time, compared to a few months ago when it seemed like every week we had 1-3 more "dead after sitting" stories.something has changed for the better, whether it be replaced batteries or updates to their systems or other replaced parts, or new builds don't have this issue.

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