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Hi everyone. I am a new C-Max energi owner. Picked up a fully loaded 2013 all black today. I have a level 2 charger on my house,so I'm all ready. As a long time Ford parts manager, I'm very familiar with them, and looked for about 6 months to find just what I wanted. One owner, 115k miles, selling dealer serviced from new. The transmission waa changed at 49k under warranty with the updated unit. I can't wait to start modifying it!

HALLELUJA!!!!!!! Thank you Lord. She runs! First try, it was a tad rough and low rpm(5-600-ish) for a couple seconds and slowly starting picking up rpm to the normal 1500. I waited another 15 seconds and floored it, went up to 2100 (how its always done) and back to 1500 when I let off. Put it in gear and moved it backward and forward a few feet (wife's car is in front). A minute later the rpm fluctuated up and down then went up to 2100 roughly like it was randomly dropping a cylinder then smoothed out and went back to 1500 smoothly, that scenario was maybe 10 seconds. Sat there another 2 minutes, still smooth, HVB already up to 50%. Set the defrost on max but lowest fan speed, to keep the ICE running. Going to let i run a half hour or so, get good and warm. Tomorrow I'll get it scanned. Ate something that didn't agree with me last night, don't feel like doing squat today, almost didn't even go out to try the car but it's warmed up to a balmy 18° so I figured to out. I'm guessing the problem was fuel related, something iced up or froze and maybe had some air in the lines causing that fluctuating/rough running for a few seconds just now.

Failed vehicle inspection due to "leaking" rear shocks. Shop wanted $700 to replace both. Nope. DIY and casual 4 hours later, replaced both shocks (using TRQs), rotated tires, and cleaned the HVB filter/screen behind passenger-side rear wheel tub while "in there"; screen was clogged and read that can reduce HVB charge. Shocks were slow to remove and reinstall/retorque the bottom bolts (given limited/tight access) and went ahead and replaced both upper shock brackets as well although both looked fine. Not bad overall for $200. Greg

Not to worry. The car will operate in normal hybrid mode. Cheers

There are jump points under the hood. Use those first to try and jump the vehicle long enough to open the hatch. Seeing issues people have had doing this in the past, you may want to verify you have a solid connection especially on the grounding post (the long grey 'bolt' sticking up in the engine bay on the drivers side near the headlight). Also may need to give it some time if the battery has been seriously discharged to give it enough juice for the appropriate modules to wake up. The BCM is in charge of the locking system and the latching mechanism in the hatch. If the door locks work and interior lights are lit, it should be enough to open the hatch. If all this fails, you'll unfortunately need to climb over the back seat and figure out how to access the battery that way which will be a HUGE paint in the ass. Try the above options first.

I know this post is 5 yrs old. Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution. 2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles. Rough running, flashing engine MIL light, P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup). I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier). First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire. Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors... Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips. I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil. Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip. Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes. Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right. Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built). Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone. Hope this helps someone.

It's with great sadness that we're listing our C-Max for sale. We bought the car in 2020 during the pandemic, and it has served us well. It's taken the kids to school, to the supermarket, and many more exciting adventures well beyond Jersey City where we live. We're moving overseas, so the car can't come with us. If we weren't moving so far away, we'd be keeping the C-Max until its dying days. It's spacious, fun to drive, and perfectly sized for city life. It has custom fitted Husky floor liners for both rows, a 3D printed liner for the trunk floor, custom fit windscreen shield, tinted rear windows, and a Sync 3 infotainment system with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto support. Message me if you're interested.

When it bought my 2017 C-max Energi, I found it so solid and stable and smooth on the road that I called it my "Little LTD."

In case it helps someone else about 2 weeks ago my backup camera stopped working about 85% of the time with the error message saying camera not available, see dealer. My car is a 2013 SEL. Occasionally it would work and some of those times the image would be upside down. After reviewing this forum, I ordered the camera (Dorman 592-008 Rear Park Assist Camera) and some plastic trim tools from Amazon. Using the YouTube video below I was able to replace it. I did have one of the tabs on the camera bracket break. I secured it with a trimmed piece of duct tape, and I think it will be fine. If not, I know the camera works and how to get to it now.

Several folks here have gotten over 200k. Enjoy the car. Cheers

For those who may be unaware, the rear hatch cannot be opened if the 12v battery is dead, so do NOT keep jumper cables in the rear cubby.

Welcome, the forum is back alive!

Just a little info for everyone, Use it however you want. I spent 20yrs as an auditor for various gas stations/stores across the southeast USA. Part of that job was verifying the fuel level reporting of each station. Reports were used to track refill orders & to report to the EPA to verify tank & fuel pipes were not losing fuel [EPA does not care what leaks into tanks just what could leak out]. Despite appearances, gas stations are not sealed. Every time you put a gallon in your car, the same volume of air is drawn into the feed tank. Outside air with moisture & dust. I probably checked a thousand or more over the years & EVERYONE of them had some water/dirt in the bottom of the tanks. Depending on the size of tank & water level, equipment is used to remove excess. There is a reason for using fuel additives that should not ignored. THANKs for the read.

To be clear: The BMS only needs reset if changing out the battery. If you're just disconnecting the same battery for some reason and reconnecting it after, there should be no reason to reset the BMS. That's all retained in non-volatile memory that doesn't get affected with loss of power. Also the BMS reset can be DIY'd. The best solution is to use Forscan (either the mobile or PC version, both have the necessary service function) with your OBD adapter of choice. There's some method floating out there of doing a whole dance with the high beams or flashers or something but the issue with that is there's no clear confirmation that it succeeded. With Forscan you can check the battery age PID after the reset to confirm it took.

No truer words were ever spoken. In my case, for example, I found out the hard way that the back-up sensors did not work when the 12V battery was failing.

Thanks for your reply. It's about 18 months old. Hopefully not going out again.

From memory some people on this forum have had luck sourcing a used 2016+ transmission from wrecking yards via car-part.com, and getting a local mechanic to install that. It will cost much less than the 7k the dealer wants to charge.

Cmax air filters are tedious. My engine air filter didn't look too different to the 'mouse nest' one above. I was tempted to 'let it go' for another year, but decided to change it; I similarly sucked up some monster cotton/felt/debris. Not concerning since the filter caught it, but that was unexpected. For my cabin air filter, I threw the retaining screw away since the plastic cover snaps into place although the cabin air filter requires some gymnastics. Greg

Not sure about a dealer installed. And I think most have taken the '2014-2017/18' years on the original bulletin as a hard limit on which ones they'll upgrade even though personally I think it wasn't intended to be interpreted that way and just what they covered under the free labor provisions. But I have a 2013 SEL and DIY'd it and it's been running perfectly aside from Ford dropping all the useful features which isn't specific to the '13s and affects everyone.

If it were me, I'd just replace the 12v battery and see what happens. I don't recall of anyone having a power steering issue that called for replacement. Or a power steering issue at all, for that matter. Cheers. PS: Remember to reset the battery age monitor. Search the forum for info. BN

I really like the car. Having driven a cramped 2006 Toyota Corolla until now, I am so impressed with the ergonomics. Ford did a great job with clear sight lines into adjacent lanes and to the rear. The seats are very comfortable, though very US-roomy (sized for big Americans). Steering, braking and acceleration are more than acceptable. The HVB takes up a fair amount of cargo space that I could have used, but I get to ride around locally in all-electric silence, 'til the engine kicks in. The vehicle has a big-car feel -- heavy doors that close with a solid "thunk", and a feeling of weight on the road. The CVT tranny is smooth and silent. My C-Max had nearly 150,000 mile on the odo when I got it. I wonder how long it will last before something critical and way too expensive fails, or until I am too old to drive. Until then, I have made my debut into the world of modern autos. I suppose that's better than tooling around in the old Toyota.

Hi all, just picked up my 2015 C-max Energi Titanium Plus with 145000 kilometers. It got traded in at a Volvo garage a friend of mine is running and he knew I was looking for a PHEV. Although working in EV industry for >6 years (CHPT) I never knew there were ever PHEV C-max sold in The Netherlands; actually less than 1000 have indeed been put on the road here. Hope to find useful information here.

I have a 2014 C Max SEL Hybrid with 55,000 miles. I've had the oil changed every 5,000 miles at the dealer. This time, they told me I needed additional additives. These were supposed to clean the fuel system, treat the engine oil, restore engine performance, and install a premium ethanol defender. I finally found out it was the BG product 44K Platinum. I also think they were proposing the use of BG's EPR for hybrids. This "oil change" would cost $329. I felt they were up-selling and declined their oil change. I told them that service was not in the manual and if it was needed it would have been stated there. They said it would make my car last longer. I know these products can be bought locally and I can add them myself. What are other C Max owners doing? Are they using additives and are they needed at 55,000 miles? I might add I have not had any problems with this car and plan to drive it till the wheels fall off. I do get 40.9 MPG which indicates to me the car is performing correctly. Your opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Funny...My Manual said the opposite at least for the engine : " Do not use supplemental engine oil additives in your engine. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage not covered by your Ford warranty."

Recently traded in my 2016 SEL Hybrid at 85000 miles. 48.8 AVG MPG. Picked up a 2024 Escape Plug-In Hybrid and am loving it.

Took me a bit of time to get around to getting this done at the dealer. Here is the old one: Here is the new one with its protective cover: This is on a 2013 CMax SEL

Engineers say "Oh, this part only needs replaced every seven years so" -- to replace the battery in my Prius from the trunk you had to remove a bunch of ductwork and a brake controller .. headlights -- in my HHR you literally had to turn the wheel to one side, undo the clips from the wheel wheel, reach up from behind the wheel well and then change the headlight from under the car. The Prius headlights -- to do by Toyota spec you had to remove and replace the front bumper, $300 .. I found the part on Amazon for $80 per xenon bulb and very carefully replaced them with teeny hands and a compact mirror. Even the CMAX you have to peel up the HVAC cowling, pop some push pins near the radiator and wrench a bit on the headlight assembly to get it to pivot to the point where it's easy access, depending on which headlight you want to replace. My '94 Cavalier? You could open the hood and replace a headlight bulb in about 30 secs.

Forgot to add, as a mature driver myself [70+] I feel your pain.

Nothing good happens with a weak 12V battery. Try charging it (battery recharge posts under hood on drivers side) to see if that helps. But be prepared for a replacement. Also, search the forum for lots more 12v info. Cheers, and welcome.

Welcome to the forum. Tire noise: C-Max is so quiet you hear/notice noises you don't usually do on ICE vehicles. They should quieten down as they settle in or you get use to the noise, Inconsistent warning lights, rear hatch: possible weak 12v battery or weak battery in key fob. As an owner of a 2013, it's NOT maroon, it's called Ruby Red. Sounds more regal & expensive, don't you think?

Greetings! Just purchased a 2015 C-Max Energi SEL and glad to be here! Will have lots of questions at first and hope to contribute once I learn more about the C-Max.

Have same problem, check out ford service bulletin. TSB 17-0015 electrical cable chaffing. this is the best answer in can find after searching the net. lots of people having this problem

For me it would't be worth it even if you doubled the range to 20 miles. I would get an escape PHEV (39mile range) or an EV if you don't take frequent long trips. I did buy a Mach-E standard range EV last year after I sold my c-max.

Remember, the guess-o-meter is based on your recent driving. If you have a lead foot, it might think that you only have eight miles of juice. Follow cr08's instructions, that will get to what you really have available.

Look here

I was hoping someone in the CMAX forum would be interested in taking over for me making Grill Covers for those that can't make their own. It would be a shame not to have them available for New Members. Paul

I went 273k mi. with out changing the brakes and they were fine when I traded in the car. ? Paul

Keep in mind that Energi variants had 0 of 4 transmission failures in the same test that failed 3 of 4 in Hybrid variants.

Is there a place up in the roof console to tap 12V switched power for a dashcam? I have the sunroof too. I'm planning to use the circuit from a 12V socket USB adaptor to provide a USB jack for my dashcam as I don't want to pull the A pillar trim to run a wire down to the dash area.

I'm also looking to put on taller tires, bumping up only the aspect ratio from 225/50/R17 to 225/55/R17. So all other tire dimensions would be the same except for a .4" taller sidewall. Does anyone know if they would rub with such a change?

I used a small booster battery on the jumper posts under the hood to jump the car and to get the lift gate to operate.

Yep; jump the car and you should be able to open the lift gate using the other car's 12v.

Don't care about larger tires but would love it if my c-max sat a little higher off the ground.

I've always been into lighting and the factory halogen headlights on the C-Max are just not acceptable to me, comparing them to my past cars that are equipped with factory projector HIDs. I tried LED bulbs in the factory halogen hosing. Although the performance was much better, the glare was a little too much for my liking as I've been high-beamed by oncoming traffic a few times. I wanted to correct this so I looked into retrofitting projector HID's into the factory housing. My choices were TSX or RX350 projectors but found out that the best option would be to use projectors from Morimoto. I opted for their Mini H1 V7.0 bi-xenon kit and they definitely live up to their reputation. I don't have any progress pictures, unfortunately. Just the end results! I have a few more videos that I'm going through but for now, hope you guys enjoy some pictures and clips..

62Lincoln, you are responding to posts that are over a year old...

Just found out that Rockauto has the Motorcraft rebuilt axle (Right) for $145 + shipping. I do have a competent local mechanic who can pull and install an axle within 45 mins(given there are no seized/ruste parts) just in case

I recall at least one time I had a similar experience as SnowStorm. From the manual, the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) needs the power mode signal from the Body Control Module for Electronic Power Assist Steering (EPAS) to be activated. So, any delay or error in getting the signal might be the cause of the few second delay in EPAS activation. Once active, EPAS uses the steering torque sensor input and vehicle speed in applying steering assist. "The steering torque sensor senses the torque at the steering wheel. It is hard wired to the PSCM and works by measuring the relative rotation between an input and output shaft which are connected by a torsion bar." "The PSCM is self-monitoring and is capable of setting and storing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Depending on the DTC set, the PSCM may enter a failure mode. In addition, the PSCM may send a request to the IPC to display a message in the message center, alerting the driver of a potential EPAS concern." Depending on the DTC, the PSCM failure modes are 1) diminished EPAS and 2) no EPAS or manual steering. So, my guess is that upon restart the issue causing the failure mode was no longer present and EPAS operation returned to normal and the DTC was reset. It seems that a CAN issue, PSCM issue, or an issue with the steering torque sensor could initiate a failure mode.

So, I cut up some plexiglass, got some black adhesive, and... ...the contents of my glove box actually stay in place now! :)

I've got an idea: take the bed apart, load it back into the car, and take a picture! :doh: :confused: What?

Why do people believe the C-Max has a restrictive filter? where's the evidence? and replacing it with an oiled K&N less restrictive filter is of benefit? where's the evidence? If you want more dirt in your engine, put the K&N filter in or any other less restrictive filter. If you want to save money on air filter changes starting at 120 k miles, put the K&N filter in (3 - OEM filters = 1 K&N filter). If you want to risk an oiled MAF sensor, put the oiled K&N filter in (of course K&N denies this is an issue with a properly oiled filter). It's one own choice but beware of seat of the pants performance and mileage improvement claims using a "less restrictive" filter (if there is a restriction, it's virtually always not the air filter) ;)