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HALLELUJA!!!!!!! Thank you Lord. She runs! First try, it was a tad rough and low rpm(5-600-ish) for a couple seconds and slowly starting picking up rpm to the normal 1500. I waited another 15 seconds and floored it, went up to 2100 (how its always done) and back to 1500 when I let off. Put it in gear and moved it backward and forward a few feet (wife's car is in front). A minute later the rpm fluctuated up and down then went up to 2100 roughly like it was randomly dropping a cylinder then smoothed out and went back to 1500 smoothly, that scenario was maybe 10 seconds. Sat there another 2 minutes, still smooth, HVB already up to 50%. Set the defrost on max but lowest fan speed, to keep the ICE running. Going to let i run a half hour or so, get good and warm. Tomorrow I'll get it scanned. Ate something that didn't agree with me last night, don't feel like doing squat today, almost didn't even go out to try the car but it's warmed up to a balmy 18° so I figured to out. I'm guessing the problem was fuel related, something iced up or froze and maybe had some air in the lines causing that fluctuating/rough running for a few seconds just now.

Hi everyone. I am a new C-Max energi owner. Picked up a fully loaded 2013 all black today. I have a level 2 charger on my house,so I'm all ready. As a long time Ford parts manager, I'm very familiar with them, and looked for about 6 months to find just what I wanted. One owner, 115k miles, selling dealer serviced from new. The transmission waa changed at 49k under warranty with the updated unit. I can't wait to start modifying it!

Failed vehicle inspection due to "leaking" rear shocks. Shop wanted $700 to replace both. Nope. DIY and casual 4 hours later, replaced both shocks (using TRQs), rotated tires, and cleaned the HVB filter/screen behind passenger-side rear wheel tub while "in there"; screen was clogged and read that can reduce HVB charge. Shocks were slow to remove and reinstall/retorque the bottom bolts (given limited/tight access) and went ahead and replaced both upper shock brackets as well although both looked fine. Not bad overall for $200. Greg

Hello, we are picking up a new to us 2018 SE tomorrow.

Just a little info for everyone, Use it however you want. I spent 20yrs as an auditor for various gas stations/stores across the southeast USA. Part of that job was verifying the fuel level reporting of each station. Reports were used to track refill orders & to report to the EPA to verify tank & fuel pipes were not losing fuel [EPA does not care what leaks into tanks just what could leak out]. Despite appearances, gas stations are not sealed. Every time you put a gallon in your car, the same volume of air is drawn into the feed tank. Outside air with moisture & dust. I probably checked a thousand or more over the years & EVERYONE of them had some water/dirt in the bottom of the tanks. Depending on the size of tank & water level, equipment is used to remove excess. There is a reason for using fuel additives that should not ignored. THANKs for the read.

There are jump points under the hood. Use those first to try and jump the vehicle long enough to open the hatch. Seeing issues people have had doing this in the past, you may want to verify you have a solid connection especially on the grounding post (the long grey 'bolt' sticking up in the engine bay on the drivers side near the headlight). Also may need to give it some time if the battery has been seriously discharged to give it enough juice for the appropriate modules to wake up. The BCM is in charge of the locking system and the latching mechanism in the hatch. If the door locks work and interior lights are lit, it should be enough to open the hatch. If all this fails, you'll unfortunately need to climb over the back seat and figure out how to access the battery that way which will be a HUGE paint in the ass. Try the above options first.

I know this post is 5 yrs old. Just posting to possibly help someone else in future who might be reading or searching for solution. 2013 CMax SEL Hybrid 114K miles. Rough running, flashing engine MIL light, P codes: 0302 (cyl 2 misfire), 0202 (cyl 2 injector A circuit), 0316 (engine misfire on startup). I had proactively replaced spark plugs about 1000 miles ago (couple months earlier). First time the above malfunction happened a couple weeks ago I got all new coil on plugs, Motorcraft DG-522, and replaced all four, figuring and hoping it was a coil problem since I was pretty sure the spark plugs were fine. Problem went away for about a week. It happened again so I figured it probably wasn’t a spark problem anymore. Tested resistance between the two pins on each of the injectors with the multimeter, which should be between 11 and 18 ohms. I didn’t know that range of values at the time, but the suspected three good ones from cylinders 1, 3, 4 were about 13 ohms and cylinder two was about 29 ohms. Figured cylinder two is probably beyond a limit. Found online mechanics saying the resistance should be between the 11 and 18 ohms. Ordered four Bosch fuel injectors 62383 figuring I would just replace them all at once. Car had sat now for a couple days so wasn’t worried about fuel pressure or fire. Wasn’t very difficult to replace injectors... Obviously you have to remove the air filter box associated air hoses etc to get at the coils/plugs/injectors. Then took picture of all the wires as is, although I don’t think you could physically cross wire anything in truth on reinstallation. Then removed the wires from the coils and from the injectors, and all the wire mounts, to gain some working room below the wire looms. Blew the gunk out of the injector holes with compressed air. Loosened the two bolts holding the fuel rail on. Jiggled and wiggled the fuel rail plus 4 injectors out of the four cylinders. I did not disconnect the fuel line leading in to the fuel rail. A bit of fuel dripped around out of the injectors (a few ounces total), but I had a rag ready to soak it up. I cleaned the injector holes with the gasoline soaked rag and my finger, and some qtips. I sucked the injector holes with a vacuum to remove any residual debris. Removed the old injectors from fuel rail with a small screwdriver to get the metal clip to release then pulled them out (still working below the wire looms with fuel input line still attached, tight but manageable plus a bit more fuel dripped out). Transferred the old metal clips over to the new injectors. Lubed the new injectors o rings with some Vaseline or could’ve used motor oil. Inserted each injector by pushing in to fuel rail making sure the metal clip latched on the fuel rail lip. Pushed the fuel rail with new injectors back into their 4 cylinder holes. Tightened the fuel injector rail bolts to 17 foot pounds. And plugged everything back in. Double checked it looked right. Started car and pressed gas to make ICE run (1-2 seconds of sputtering as fuel pressure built). Checked for leaks and problems seems solved. We’ll see if it stays gone. Hope this helps someone.

It's with great sadness that we're listing our C-Max for sale. We bought the car in 2020 during the pandemic, and it has served us well. It's taken the kids to school, to the supermarket, and many more exciting adventures well beyond Jersey City where we live. We're moving overseas, so the car can't come with us. If we weren't moving so far away, we'd be keeping the C-Max until its dying days. It's spacious, fun to drive, and perfectly sized for city life. It has custom fitted Husky floor liners for both rows, a 3D printed liner for the trunk floor, custom fit windscreen shield, tinted rear windows, and a Sync 3 infotainment system with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto support. Message me if you're interested.

When it bought my 2017 C-max Energi, I found it so solid and stable and smooth on the road that I called it my "Little LTD."

In case it helps someone else about 2 weeks ago my backup camera stopped working about 85% of the time with the error message saying camera not available, see dealer. My car is a 2013 SEL. Occasionally it would work and some of those times the image would be upside down. After reviewing this forum, I ordered the camera (Dorman 592-008 Rear Park Assist Camera) and some plastic trim tools from Amazon. Using the YouTube video below I was able to replace it. I did have one of the tabs on the camera bracket break. I secured it with a trimmed piece of duct tape, and I think it will be fine. If not, I know the camera works and how to get to it now.

Several folks here have gotten over 200k. Enjoy the car. Cheers

The pic is from April 5th and today I have 530,300 with no pic.

We changed 12V battery in my daughter's 2013 Hybrid this week. Replacement was $199 at Ford dealer. This was the cheapest price I found and cost less than non-ford solutions. Old battery lasted 7 years. Had a problem removing the plastic clamp on the bottom of the battery. The bolt got loose but failed to fully remove. Bolt was a little rusty and it was spinning the threaded nut under the plastic clamp. Was able to reach under the car and grab onto the bottom of the threaded nut with pliers to keep it from spinning for full removal. Previous battery was replaced in 2018 by ford dealer that offered a free install but unfortunately they over-tightened the nut on the Positive + clamp and that cracked the clamp body and it came apart when I removed it. Ford doesn't sell just the broken clamp part, they sell an assembly of the parts connected to it for $320. However I was able to get a universal clamp at autozone for $10 that worked just fine. After install charged the new battery fully and then ran the manual procedure to reset the battery age to 0. That process worked and was able to the run the radio 10 min after turning the car off.

What system? Is it the 8" touch screen or the 4" non touch screen. Portions of your post hint at the latter. Unfortunately it seems like those systems are a bit more problematic. I'd try first pulling fuse 67 (not to be confused with fuse 79) which is for the Sync system itself. 79 is for the ACM which is a different set of issues. See if that brings it back at least temporarily. If not, you may be looking at hardware failures which is not uncommon with those. Most people just go to aftermarket headunits with those. It's often not worth the limited functionality the basic Sync system provides on those and having to pay the cost and risk it going out again. The 8" touch screen systems are a whole different beast. Usually Sync 3 units (2016+ model years) are rock solid. Older Sync 2/MFT hardware (2013-2015) is pretty ok especially once they're fully updated. Some hardware failures exist but aren't nearly as common. These are also easily upgraded to Sync 3 which I personally highly recommend if you can afford it. You get the benefit of a newer more reliable infotainment system and added Android Auto/CarPlay functionality from a fully OEM/integrated system. And it's virtually a plug and play upgrade. Semi-related comment: But for people shopping around for these vehicles, one of my main recommendations is going for one with the 8" touch screen infotainment if possible. Sounds counter-intuitive but they've gotten more attention and fixes over time compared to the 4" models.

For me I've basically skipped refreshing the included tire kit/inflator. Ulterior motive for that being I found mine had an air leak somewhere and wouldn't get up past around 20 psi. Instead I just got a cheap tire inflator from the local big box store. Slime branded model that also has a digital pressure readout and auto-stop once it reaches your set pressure. Then just a simple tire plug kit to go along with it. Both are small enough to stash under the lip in the cargo area on my Energi and the old space under the passenger seat is now open for extra storage.

Shifting into Low doesn't try to keep a constant speed, the hill descent control does. Personally, I'd rather keep it in L and manage the speed with the accelerator pedal. I *think* that the loopy arrow over the battery display on the left screen is only shown when friction braking is applied, but I'm not sure about that. When you plug the charger back in, the car wakes up and checks stuff; it will go back to sleep when it's satisfied. The indicator on the lower right lights when the doors are locked. Yes, it should be a button, but it isn't. I consider it a bug that the car doesn't keep the 12v battery topped up when plugged in. If I'm going to leave my car undriven for long periods, or in cold snaps like this, I use the fob to start it occasionally, just to try to take care of the 12v. I suspect that they used those beefy cables to attach the battery because that wouldn't require a special part. At the end of each trip, the left screen briefly shows per-trip stats, including how much regen you get; I typically get about 20%. Folklore indicates that the high-voltage battery will last longer if you keep acceleration low, and use EV Later if you're going over 45mph. My 2013 Energi still has 20 miles in the HVB, so I tend to believe that. I use EV Later whenever I'm going farther than one exit on the highway, or when there are hills to be climbed; my town is sliced by a highway, it's damned convenient to use it to get to the other side of town, and I'll use the HVB for that distance.

There is a coolant temp gauge under the MyView screen. It only tracks the ICE/cabin heat coolant, not the hybrid/inverter side. It also is not a 'dumb' gauge like most vehicles and will gradually move based on temperature which is nice! Beyond that, I'm not aware of any other relevant gauges. Mostly all the EV vs ICE usage, auxillary/HVAC power consumption, etc.. There are one or two pages under MyView that will track the ICE tachometer as well. Oil pressure specifically is definitely not covered stock and not 100% sure if there's a PID for that for aftermarket units but I can double check later this evening. I know on some past vehicles I've owned they have not tracked oil pressure so I don't consider that one a guarantee.

As far as the 2016 situation, here's the gist: 2016 model year C-Maxes with the appropriate trims/options (ie: Has the 8" touch screen, not the 4" non-touch unit) would have been supplied with Sync 3 vs Sync 2. But the USB hubs in the center console were not compatible with CarPlay. I believe something to do with a special identification chip that Apple requires. Don't quote me on that though. Android Auto users don't have the same issue. But 2017+ model years they updated the hub so it is compatible. There was also a software update to Sync that was needed too. Many may already be past this. Always recommend to go through Ford for these updates first and it'll get the software side sorted out: https://www.ford.com/support/sync-maps-updates/ . Some suggest using Cyanlabs to get to newer 3.4 versions that Ford doesn't officially support on our vehicles but it requires some technical experience and has the potential to brick your APIM. If you happen to still have an older hub and update Sync 3 to the latest available version to you, you should then receive a warning on startup about USB hubs not being supported. The hub replacement is inexpensive and quick to do. The hub in the center console just snaps in. Pop it out, there's two connectors on the back. Unplug the old, plug in the new, pop it back in. No further work or programming needed.

My son upgraded his 2016 c-max energi to the latest sync version a couple years ago but I don't think he had to upgrade the usb hubs. If you are going from sync 2 to sync 3 I think the usb ports are upgraded on some models. He got the sync updates from a non-ford site.

This is what Ford used to call the 'oil maintenance mode' on earlier model years and changed it up to this confusing wording later. This mode only exists on Energi models and will run if you have too many drive cycles where the ICE starts but runs in short bursts or otherwise doesn't come up to full temp. Many will see this during the colder months of the year with cabin heat being used especially if you stay on EV Auto mode. It's normal and it is designed to run the ICE full time until it gets hot enough for long enough to boil off accumulated moisture in the oil. It'll continue to run even between vehicle restarts until it is satisfied. A quick way to end it is to get on the highway and drive it for a bit so it is under a consistent engine load and maintains the coolant/oil temp it needs. Just keep in mind that once it finishes, it'll drop back to 'Auto' operation and with plug-in charge available that means it'll be running on EV power primarily and you'll want to switch back to EV Later while still on the highway to help protect the battery.

Just saw the video you posted (odd, I didn't see it te other day). Anyhow, mine didn't even "run" anywhere near that smooth. It was really rough, almost like only one cylinder was firing. And the rpm definitely was not steady. I also noticed at times the up/down arrow flicked from discharge to charge and I'm sure I saw the "EV" flick on once. Either way, fuel pump looks like a good place to start. Haven't done anything yet as it's still been sub freezing. Tomorrow supposed to be in the low 20s in the afternoon. I'll try again in case something was frozen.

208K miles on my 2015 so far. Brake pads, rotors, tires, tie rod ends (Minnesota potholes) Still gets 40 MPG with cruise control set at 70MPH on 5 hour drives across Minnesota, Iowa, and South Dakota. Love this thing. Wish they woud make them again. I would buy one in an instant. G,

To be clear: The BMS only needs reset if changing out the battery. If you're just disconnecting the same battery for some reason and reconnecting it after, there should be no reason to reset the BMS. That's all retained in non-volatile memory that doesn't get affected with loss of power. Also the BMS reset can be DIY'd. The best solution is to use Forscan (either the mobile or PC version, both have the necessary service function) with your OBD adapter of choice. There's some method floating out there of doing a whole dance with the high beams or flashers or something but the issue with that is there's no clear confirmation that it succeeded. With Forscan you can check the battery age PID after the reset to confirm it took.

The transmission fluid actually looked like new but I believe it was a little bit low because I've added like 1/2 Liter more than I've drained

If it were me, I'd just replace the 12v battery and see what happens. I don't recall of anyone having a power steering issue that called for replacement. Or a power steering issue at all, for that matter. Cheers. PS: Remember to reset the battery age monitor. Search the forum for info. BN

I just replaced my two front bearings and hubs on my 2013 SEL. Bought parts at Rock Auto including new Timken sealed bearings, snap rings, axle nuts, and Motorcraft hubs. Bought tools I needed at Amazon. Bought high powered/torque battery impact at Harbor Freight (Hercules brand). Basically did it how this guy did it:

I had the same issue happen to me last night: windows all down, car unlocked. My key/fob seems to be malfunctionning. Even after going in the car, raising the windows, the would automatically come back down. To identify the root cause, I kept the two sides of the fob separated so that there was no contact as soon as I raised the windows. Then, I'd keep the two sides apart. The windows stayed up during the night. This morning, I looked inside the key/fob and it looks like there was a piece of rubber that came unglued therefore there was always a contact on the down button.

Funny...My Manual said the opposite at least for the engine : " Do not use supplemental engine oil additives in your engine. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage not covered by your Ford warranty."

Recently traded in my 2016 SEL Hybrid at 85000 miles. 48.8 AVG MPG. Picked up a 2024 Escape Plug-In Hybrid and am loving it.

Short drives won't fully charge the battery. Stick a battery charger on it and charge it fully. See how that goes before changing anything.

Lots of old data on this forum going back to 2012 when the c-max came out. Suggest you do a search for the cv boot problem before laying out $$ for that one.

Timing chain. And there's no service interval listed by Ford for this.

I'm super interested in this topic too. As far as I understand it you can move from 17' to 18' without a problem. Not sure about bigger than 18' though. I do think that bigger tires will reduce your MPGs tough (basically the car has to do more work to turn the wheels)

I used a small booster battery on the jumper posts under the hood to jump the car and to get the lift gate to operate.

Looking at something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tema4x4-Complete-FOCUS-C-MAX-2012-2018/dp/B073F99S91/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/147-9239965-5571232?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073F99S91&pd_rd_r=23ddf887-8a8d-4da7-ab55-c6a2cd9f8955&pd_rd_w=J72Id&pd_rd_wg=aCHGG&pf_rd_p=b65ee94e-1282-43fc-a8b1-8bf931f6dfab&pf_rd_r=XXS7J2SQB9E15A6XNMQD&psc=1&refRID=XXS7J2SQB9E15A6XNMQD

Don't care about larger tires but would love it if my c-max sat a little higher off the ground.

Found this filter . Being new to hybrids, but fresh out of the turner world, I have to wonder why the product was even made. I know K&N filter often add a couple extra HP, but would C-Max even benefit from this? Like I said, filter/ intake upgrades don't really add much power, but could our cars be more restricted than the average car? Also, would the new filter negatively impact mpg's, provided normal driving conditions? I rarely stomp the pedal, so the added power would be almost never used. I do think it would be nice to have a little more pep getting onto the highway (altho, I don't have any issues doing so). In the past, I have used K&N filters for the HP and the fact the are reusable. I still think having a reusable filter will save me money in the long run. Just tossing around ideas for discussion. What do you guys think?

Get an ELM327 adapter (as low as $8 to $80 for one that can scan HS and MS modules automatically) and download the free Windows Forscan App to a windows tablet / laptop / PC and reset the 12V battery data. I believe you have to request the extended license and Forscan will send a code to unlock the App. It doesn't matter how much you pay for a car as to whether to reset the battery or not. The charging and load shed algorithms need correct data to keep track of the State of Charge of the battery to hopefully maximize life of the battery. If you feel paying 1/2 hour labor is too much, don't do it.

At 206k miles I'm finally doing a repair which I have to pay for, can't complain but FORD wants $600 to replace right hand half shaft axle which I can't afford with having to replace my tires in a month or two for $800. Fortunately I have a Son in Law that's good with working on cars if I need help. :) As it turns out I needed help separating ball joint from wheel knuckle and the extra pair of hands made the difference. My inner boot was leaking grease. Have pics of ball joint and wheel knuckle and old & new right hand half shaft. The rest of the steps were pretty easy, I'm getting new half shaft from AutoZone this afternoon for $145 vs $245 from FORD. will Post when I get the car back together. I have it most of the way back together, same problem area getting it back together. Definitely a 2 man job. :) Paul

Regarding the advice to carry a plug kit/pliers and skip the sealer: not everyone has the ability to do the work on the side of the road. I've just recently used the sealant on a 24k mile used tire (Nissan Leaf) and it worked exactly as advertised. Yes, follow-up was inconvenient, to take the car to a tire shop, remove the tire from the rim, flush out the water-base sealant, plug/patch from the inside, remount, balance tire. The TPMS wasn't affected by the sealant. 1500 miles later, tire hasn't lost a breath of air. The convenience factor, for anyone not mechanically inclined, is important. (I would prefer a full-sized spare, as the sealant is worthless, of course, if there's a blow-out!)

I recall at least one time I had a similar experience as SnowStorm. From the manual, the Power Steering Control Module (PSCM) needs the power mode signal from the Body Control Module for Electronic Power Assist Steering (EPAS) to be activated. So, any delay or error in getting the signal might be the cause of the few second delay in EPAS activation. Once active, EPAS uses the steering torque sensor input and vehicle speed in applying steering assist. "The steering torque sensor senses the torque at the steering wheel. It is hard wired to the PSCM and works by measuring the relative rotation between an input and output shaft which are connected by a torsion bar." "The PSCM is self-monitoring and is capable of setting and storing Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Depending on the DTC set, the PSCM may enter a failure mode. In addition, the PSCM may send a request to the IPC to display a message in the message center, alerting the driver of a potential EPAS concern." Depending on the DTC, the PSCM failure modes are 1) diminished EPAS and 2) no EPAS or manual steering. So, my guess is that upon restart the issue causing the failure mode was no longer present and EPAS operation returned to normal and the DTC was reset. It seems that a CAN issue, PSCM issue, or an issue with the steering torque sensor could initiate a failure mode.

So, I cut up some plexiglass, got some black adhesive, and... ...the contents of my glove box actually stay in place now! :)

Paul, No, coming out of a turn, the more weight on the rear tires, the less likely to start slipping. It is on the second part of the turn. This is why a RWD drive (or AWD these days) is considered better for performance - the balance between the engine up front and more weight over the rear wheels. The hybrid has some weight back there, but the Energi has and extra 200 or more lbs. It handles better coming out of a turn.

I found this in FFH Forum: "run flat bridgestone driveguard tires.The tires are quieter and handle much better than the michelin energy savers. they are very quiet too. i was worried the gas mileage would go down alot with a run flat w speed rated tire. to my surprise the mileage is about the same and thats with the oem recommended 35 psi. im wondering if i boost the pressure alittle if i can do even better. overall, a highly recommended tire and im generally a die hard michelin guy. No worries if anyone wants the security of run flats since we do not have a spare. go for it" I wonder how accurately they're measuring their gas mileage, but I thought I'd pass this on.FWIW :) Paul

Geesh... How simple, yet needed. I wish Ford would take note of this, and possibly cut you a small check for the idea :)

I put a hi flow filter in my truck 15 years ago.(still have the same one in there) I got a 5 mpg boost and has 300,000 miles on it now with no problems. Saves gas and only have to buy one over the life of the vehicle. What more could you ask for?

Why do people believe the C-Max has a restrictive filter? where's the evidence? and replacing it with an oiled K&N less restrictive filter is of benefit? where's the evidence? If you want more dirt in your engine, put the K&N filter in or any other less restrictive filter. If you want to save money on air filter changes starting at 120 k miles, put the K&N filter in (3 - OEM filters = 1 K&N filter). If you want to risk an oiled MAF sensor, put the oiled K&N filter in (of course K&N denies this is an issue with a properly oiled filter). It's one own choice but beware of seat of the pants performance and mileage improvement claims using a "less restrictive" filter (if there is a restriction, it's virtually always not the air filter) ;)