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old one above. New one: https://www.tsbsearch.com/Ford/22-2396

Not to worry. The car will operate in normal hybrid mode. Cheers

Just found out that the coolant reservoir has an overflow tube somewhere by the cap. I must have accidently pointed the funnel in that direction while filling up the reservoir, hence the spilling of coolant. Guess because of the bad location of the reservoir, it's hard to get the funnel into a straight position while filling.

Hi all, just an update in case you are interested - i took the car to the same dealership, and they've identified an issue with the Body Control Module, so they`ll be replacing it and reprogramming everything. They managed to replicate the issue by turning the heat full blast and leaving it on for a while. Hopefully replacing the BCM will resolve the issue. A bit disappointed to be honest that a 2017 car with 30k miles, which was babied by both me and the original owner, requires such an expensive repair. I am not sure what could have caused it, or if BCM's are something that are prone to breakage, but that's where we are at the moment. Cheers and thanks everyone who read/commented!

Welcome, the forum is back alive!

All the listings I see have the same hatch fitting all years of the car. The tail lights did change in 2017, but all they did was flip the white and red parts of the lens and restyle the lenses slightly. They appear to be the same shape. Here's how to take the light off the liftgate on a pre 2017, but they seem to mount the same way on every year. I doubt they changed the mounting lug locations even if the lens got restyled.

Yes, you can mount the bracket as you want to. The original Ford bracket has contoured sides to fit over the grill ribs. It is riveted through the solid panel between the grille slats at the two points in the recessed rectangles marked with the yellow arrows. I drilled pilot holes and used short chunky self-tapping 1/2" screws that I had in hand to mount mine. There is some space behind the grille to work with. Probably at least an inch. The OEM brackets are still available if you look on the web. Ford part number FO1068151 Here's a link to one source: https://www.theautopartsshop.com/sku/replace-front-license-plate-bracket-fo1068151 One other thing I did was replace the nasty hex head plate screws with 1/2" #14 Phillips head screws which look nicer and also won't damage another car's bumper. The photo of the gray car is off the web (not my car), the bracket is mounted too high, the wide notch should fit over the painted section below the grille - see the second picture (which IS my car).

Thanks for finding a reasonable replacement. Knowing the group number will be a big help. Also, don't forget to reset the battery age monitor/charging scheme. Something like hold the brake pedal down, rub your belly 10 times, or some such. Search the forum for specifics. Cheers.

Yes, you absolutely can brick modules in ways that are not possible to recover, requiring installation of a new part instead. I don't want to mince words here, we are dealing with parts of the vehicle Ford never intended to be modified in the way we are modifying them. It is possible to permanently damage modules and your car. The safeties are off. It is dangerous to your wallet to do this. I had to buy three Parking Aid Modules because I screwed up one, got the wrong part for the second one, and the third finally worked to add automatic parallel park assist. The original one off my car and the other two are sitting in a box in the back of my garage reminding me to read part numbers correctly the first time before searching on fleabay. There are generally two types of 'programming' you can do with Forscan: AsBuilt config changes and module firmware updates. Modifying "AsBuilt" configuration flags is _usually_ safe. Save a backup of the original, make sure it's easy to find, then follow guide on the settings you can flip. I've written about those config settings here: https://github.com/Cellivar/ford-c-max/tree/main/systems/modules I've got links to sources where I get my information on those pages, and some of those have been myself , CR08, bookemdano, and others changing flags and seeing what happened. I say _usually_ safe here because some of those AsBuilt settings are actually one-time-change permanent flags. If you change some of them you can't put them back. If this happens to your Body Control Module or Powertrain Control Module those are expensive and complex to replace. And again, since Ford never intended anyone outside of Ford to touch these, those settings that can't be changed back are completely undocumented and have to be discovered by trial and error. The F150 folks doing this sort of thing have found a number of them in their Transmission Control Modules and, well, that's pretty annoying and expensive to replace. Module reprogramming is an entirely different beast. Ford provides very little external information about the different versions of firmware for modules, this is again pieced together through trial and error. We know things like "don't update the firmware of the IPC while it's in the car" because people have bricked their IPCs doing this. We know "don't update the BECM firmware on its own" because it turns out the BECM, DCDC module, and a few other things all need to be on a compatible-with-each-other firmware version. Which version is that for each module? That's right, trial and error. "Your car doesn't run until you try every combination" sorts of trial and error. And firmware module updates can take hours. All this to say: Nothing we're doing is 'safe to do', it's about making it 'safe-er to do'. Learn as much as you can ahead of time BEFORE you start messing around. There's a reason I started writing things down into my GitHub space. Have a backup plan in case everything goes horribly wrong. Backup config files. Backup module firmware versions. Backup your odometer reading. Backup everything so you can put it back in a hurry if you need to. If you can't live without your car working for a while wait for a better time to mess with things. Read all instructions and guides carefully before you do anything in them, making sure you understand them before you try them. Don't expect your dealer to bail you out, they don't know what we're doing and they often know less than you do. So long as you keep your head on straight, understand what you're doing before you do it, and have a backup plan in case what you're trying to do doesn't work, you will usually be okay. Usually. Good luck.

Hi! I am new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself. I live in Michigan and have fallen in love with the CMAX. Last fall (2022) our family went through some big medical issues so I sold my 2022 Bronco Sport back to the dealer and walked out with a used CMAX 2016 SEL with 96,000 miles on it. The salesperson was driving it as his demo car and couldn't stop raving about how it's one of the best cars Ford ever made and how Ford made a mistake not making them anymore. I said yes to a CMAX to help save money and to get better gas mileage driving my husband back and forth to the hospital and to and from numerous appointments. I love the car so much! My oldest son who is in college is now driving the 2016 CMAX (his car took a dump this semester). He loves it! A 2017 Ford CMAX Energi with only 54,000 miles is on its way to me this week and I can't wait. I am constantly reading this forum and fangirling over the CMAX, so thought I would join! I am excited to learn more and hopeful the batteries will last as long as possible.

Here is an old thread on the topic. best-highway-cruising-speed-for-mpgs

The rear suspension is built similar to many other cars on the road and should have no problem being serviced by a local repair shop. I would check the rear shock mount first. They are made of aluminum and tend to disintegrate over time. I recently had to replace mine on my 2013 Energi after one failed.

Welcome, I guess the previous owner bought a new car with the bingo winnings.

Energi will get you the used car tax credit if you buy it from a dealer, but if cargo space is important it's not the car for you. Same with small turning radius. I swear, Mack trucks could turn inside a C-Max turning radius.

Remember, the guess-o-meter is based on your recent driving. If you have a lead foot, it might think that you only have eight miles of juice. Follow cr08's instructions, that will get to what you really have available.

A lot to unpack here: First off, Ford's original 'up to 20 miles' was optimistic and considered the most efficient driving scenario which would be in town stop and go driving. All EVs (PHEV's like the Energi included) are going to be less efficient and have less range in highway driving. In fact it is highly recommended not to drive EV mode on the highway because it stresses the battery and accelerates degradation. Switch to EV Later and save the battery for in town driving/roads under 45-50mph. The range estimate is also just a guess by the system and often referred to as the 'guess-o-meter'. There's many factors that can impact what range it shows and as such is not a reliable indicator of overall battery health. If you want to check the current health, the procedure below is the best way to do so: 1) Fully charge the vehicle 2) Drive in EV mode ONLY, avoiding scenarios that can cause the ICE/engine to start. This means no highway driving, avoid cabin heat/defrost as much as possible. The fewer running accessories the better. 3) Drive until the plug-in charge is depleted and it drops back to hybrid operation. Safely stop the car and shut it off. 4) Upon shutting off the car, you will have a trip summary screen show on the dash. the Kwh used number is what you're looking for. 5.5kwh is what is expected brand new from the factory. 4.0 or higher is still in good territory. Doing this will also give you more reasonable 'EV miles driven' in that summary that will be a bit more accurate than your highway driving test. The car is perfect for long distance driving IMHO and I've taken mine on plenty of cross country road trips and love it. But some expectations have to be tempered here. Using EV on the highway is not advisable and you really should run it as a hybrid in those cases. It's also not going to be as efficient as a Prius in hybrid mode. That said in my first hand experience I can easily average 37-40mpg highway with cruise set and following posted speed limits +5mph or so depending on the traffic. Lowering speed will definitely improve that and other owners have documented notable mileage increases doing so.

You're fine. The battery has a nice sturdy metal case around it. In fact you can pull up the carpeting back there and see what it looks like. It's just attached with velcro. I know on my Energi I briefly had about a dozen bags of sand from the local big box store loaded, probably well over the vehicle's payload. The battery is no worse for wear.

Welcome to the forum. There's not much to check on with a car with so low of mileage other than maintainance records & any accident reports. Since lead acid batteries degrade almost as much from age as they do mileage, unless it has been replaced, it is about 7yrs old, so if possible check the 12v battery. It is entering that age when LA batteries start to fail. [Not just on the C-Max but most 12v batteries in all cars]. With that low of use/mileage, it is possible fuel may show signs of getting stale, [easiest way to tell is by smell of the exhaust]. Would suggest using fuel system cleaner the first few tanks of gas if you decide to purchase. Merry Christmas & Thanks for the read.

Our 2013 C-Max Hybrid showed the Wrench warning light, twice. The manual suggests that multiple appearances should be checked. We took it in to Stevens Creek Ford and they diagnosed the battery control module as defective. We were under warranty, which surprised me. They replaced the unit and we picked it up the next day. Everything seems to be running fine. Thank you Ford! My wife likes the car a lot and doesn't want to change right now; I have been arguing for a year that we should get a new car for her. At least for the next few months, I am not going to bring up the subject. John

The problem with that might actually be lack of use. If the battery is left to discharge for a long time you might have other issues, but a low mileage 2017-18 from a climate that's not overly hot or too cold might maximize your longevity.

Yes. All have Lithium batteries even hybrid models. The only Ford vehicles that ever had the older NiMH batteries were the 2005-2012 Escape Hybrid and the first gen 2010-2012 Fusion Hybrids. Everything 2013+ in Ford's lineup are exclusively lithium-ion based. No transmission issues so far knock on wood. Majority of my driving has been city driving.

I think the CVT in the C-MAX and Prius are more reliable compared to the ones from Nissan for example -- it's just unfortunate they had this seal issue. I do love the car, a lot of hybrids come with upmarket trim because the car cost a lot more than a gas car at new. I'm very satisfied with my purchase but bought the car used with 30k mi around 2016 or so so I've been able to enjoy it for quite a while. The 2nd Gen Prius batteries are starting to fail now, but they also use Nickel Metal Hydride chemistry, I think the C-MAX uses Lithium ion -- so far I've only seen a handful of cars reported on here saying "Stop Safely Now" -- someone with the Forscan app and an OBD dongle might be able to see the actual degradation in the state of charge on the battery pack. The charging routine typically only allows using between 20-80% of the ACTUAL battery pack range to help preserve the battery for as long as possible. Charging to 100% or discharging to 0% is a sure way to lower the life expectancy of the battery so the battery management software is programmed to avoid it. This is all seamless to the driver, the difference is programmed into the gauges, etc. Maybe you can at least test drive the C-MAX and see what you think .. I really like the car .. It's a lot better than the competition, which at the time was the Prius V -- (had absolutely NO power). Ford was more interested in selling F-150, Escapes and Fusion and seemingly took some government funding to develop their version of the transmission and a few other components. They oversold the car as getting 60MPG -- on a very good day, with just the right driving the car CAN do that but it's more typical to get around 40-42MPG. It was TRW that actually developed the drivetrain concept way back in the 60's but up until now they just never had decent enough batteries to make it a reality.

koons-ford-report.pdfI have a 2016 CMax, I've been trying for the last couple of years to get the 3g modem upgraded but the dealers around here don't have a clue how to do it or what it means. finally Sheehy ford in springfield va said they found the part for it. when I brought it in for my appointment they said that the part didn't come in and then the next day they said they couldn't get it. This was after a couple of years trying to get someone to understand what I was talking about. Next I went to Coons Ford in Fall Church VA, they said sure we can get the part after the guy took a couple of days trying to find what I was asking for. I brought my car in when they got the part and a few hours later they guy called me back and said that the "wrench" light was on and there was a check engine light on. The guy who installed this was not a mechanic for ford but a guy who installs their audio and radios. the service advisor also seemed to not know what he was talking about. I accused him of botching the job and shorting something and he hung up on me. the service manager finally called me back and he said it was my "gateway" computer was out. he told me verbally that there was a "safe driving mode" warning showing but didn't tell me that the "stop safely now" triangle was on.. I had seen the "safe driving mode" at some point prior, but never the wrench light or the "stop safely now" .... yet.. clearly this is written on the paper he gave me down in the details of smaller print. my daughter drove home the car so I didn't see the stop safely now notice.. I only saw it when she got home. of course the gateway computer is $1205 cost and he says that if that doesn't fix it he needs to replace the instrument cluster at $900 bucks... So did the stereo guy who tried to upgrade the modem short out my cars computer? or do you think this could have been a problem prior which was made worse or just appeared now? note I attached a pdf of the paper the guy gave me when I picked up the car.

Thank you so much!

I think that's a new one for this forum. Try other ford sites, especially fusion. Good luck and let us know what you find. Cheers

@jzchen thanks, yes, I already have the fit kit, I purchased it along with the feet from someone who's dad had a C-Max in the past (feet + fit kit were a grand total of $40 CAD) I also purchased aeroblades for $200 CAD, I had to play ball with what the seller wanted because I wanted to avoid new, and it's not easy getting the specific length of 53" on used sites, so if something comes along, you grab it! I finally picked up the vehicle yesterday (yay!) and have only attempted a perfuntory attempt to slide the feet onto the bar.. as you can see from the side shot (posted above), the interface between the foot and the bar doesn't seem to rely on the smaller slot under the bar, but instead struggles to slot into the larger channel above this slot. Photos of the feet in some manuals show a smaller interface that I assume fits the channel, I am now wondering if: there were either multiple versions of the 480R feet (and/or) I can lube up the existing interface and bang it on with a rubber mallet (and/or) I can purchase a different interface for the existing feet that fits the channel (or) I need to purchase an updated set of feet I will continue to test and report back as I continue this complicated journey!

I have experience with buying parts for the now old Thule system. Yes I believe the foot kit you got was the 480R which I vaguely recall use the aero blades. Thank you for sharing that instruction it looks like the newer Wing blade Evos also fit (pardon me if I got the exact name wrong. These feet are usually available for a long time past the “expiration” of the specific vehicle fitting, if you’ll just humor me for a second. The foot attaches to the roof of each specific vehicle with what is called a “Fit Kit”. This kit is vehicle specific and tends to disappear from production and then Thule will delist an available solution for the car. Did what you were sold include this kit? Basically it’ll be like a “L” to attach to the door frame. Those 4 pieces aka fit kit are/is probably the most difficult part to find…

Thanks to this forum posting, I bought a sensor from rockauto for around $50 and replaced it on our 2018 cmax. Getting to the sensor is a bit of a challenge as there is limited room and the dashboard back panel simply gets in the way, but with patience and help from my wife's smaller hands working inside the dashboard...success. Greg

I traded it in for 2021 FORD Escape Plug-in. ? Paul

115000 on our 2017 cmax. Love this car.

The 2023 Mobil 1 rebate program has been announced: https://acbincentives.com/mobil1/terms.asp Includes "Advanced Fuel Economy" but not "Hybrid" version. Rebate for most versions is $6 per 5 quarts, or $10 for a few "extended performance" versions. Limit 2 rebates per household. Walmart is not on the long list of participating retailers, although "Other retailer" is. In past years rebates have been issued for purchases at Walmart even though WM was not on the list.

these are my last 3 fill ups. I found if I avoid the interstate and take a different route to work it is 2 miles SHORTER and I get 10mpg increase but it takes about 10 minutes longer so that's a trade I'll take

Find a good Ford dealership (look on line in Yelp, etc.) and get them to sort out the issues. A 'local repair shop' doesn't have the access to all the technical stuff; just whatever rumor their local mechanic might have heard, somewhere.

Wow.....well you both are severely lucky to have the experience you've had. Well back in 2021 by uncle reached out and asked if I'd like to inherit the 2013 SEL my aunt purchased new passed away the year so he had no use for it. I said "Yes please!" as my Triumph Striple was giving me some electrical grief (was an all season rider for years living in the Seattle area since my 2000 Subaru GC8's trans was shot and sat during that time). Skip forward to picking the car up from my uncle. Not a clue which model it was, nor what color (blue), but when I got in and looked at the odo my jaw dropped at seeing just under 17,500mi. Here I was thinking I just scored a new car hah for free......little did I know what was in store. The 1st year my uncle already had got a year of insurance so it was under his name.......during that year I popped 2 of the 4 og tires as they were brittle and riddled with micro cracks. Other 2 were replaced soon after. (GRIPE #1): Not firing the geniuses who thought up and approved, "Remove the spare, give them an 1 shot device that will only help with a small leak! Oh and since they won't have a spare and clearly that's the only reason people jack up their cars." Wow I didn't see this to urning into a novel hah...I pick up the pace. Fast forward to summer 2022. Time for me to put the car in my name we had already filled out the proper documents. Get to the dol and...low and behold you can only gift a vehicle once (in WA at least). Slapped with tax on fair market value of over $12k (Seattle sales tax was 10.1% at the time too haha). I didn't know how to work the system until afterward. Then my move to OR is when this thing just gained some baditude. Now I had already made 2 or 3 trips down to the Portland area and it was smooth and quiet. By now I was maybe at 32k miles and moved in July. Buddy of mine hooked it up with a job when I got here delivering luggage airlines lose. I figured what a perfect job with this hybrid with ample capacity. For those of you not familiar with the great PNW, our roads are seemingly always in need of attention. I would say about late August I was noticing more road noise and the ride was not as smooth anymore. Got rotations and balancing at appropriate mileage and everything. Got an alignment and by then I was getting that rear squat look (and no, I am NOT into the stanced look nor functionality). The alignment shop said my suspension was all good and brakes too. During a 2 week period I have the balance checked 3 times and was all good. Now in all of this one day I got a screw in my tire around 4am (doing late night/morning deliveries), had to go home until discount tire opened across the street from me (this was my second time since moving I got a leak). Back to delivering by 9ish and on my way to last delivery ding.....check engine light. Auto shop let me scan it and was thrown p0304 (misfires in cylinder 4. By no means was did I know my way around cars let alone a hybrid. I knew just some of the basics like oil changes brake rotors/pads, spark plugs and the sort. So being a hands on learner and craving some new knowledge I decided I'd do as much as I was comfortable with. So after all new spark plugs was still getting misfires so I did the ignition coils next. Nope! Okay so logically based on no other related codes being thrown I could afford a new injector. I curse the buttfaces on the internet who give out incorrect info. I red the number 4 cylinder was the third from the left. (It's not, it's the last one on the right) well that check engine light would go away and reappear a few times before it went out for awhile at least. Sometimes in Sept I took my car for a real good inspection and asked them to really get into the suspension and figured they'd run into an issue they could diagnose and fix. Also to clear any codes they found. They didn't see any codes nor find anything wrong with the car.....I was seriously thinking I was going crazy at that point. Not 1 mechanic or technician who all know more than I can find the issue or feel/hear it like me. Oddly enough I went back to the auto shop for a scan and sure enough that p0304 was still present. Then not a month after the Ford shop's inspection I hit a long and wide pothole on a county road during dusk. No popped rire yay. a week later by shock gave out on the freeway and evey tiny bump sounded like I was bottoming out. Fast forward to now, I have replaced (learned to and did the work myself too!) Both shocks, front lower control arms, outer tie rods, front and rear sway bar links (twice now as the first time I torqued while unloaded), rear upper control arms (yes the forward ones to correct the camber). I went with Moog parts and got them for a steal on Amazon. Well at this point I realized that I didn't trust the factory suspension so I found some coilovers as I figured it'd be nice to be able to adjust my damping to better tackle crazy roads we come up against delivering. This took a lot longer than I had guessed it would. Not having a place to work on it at home means I'm using what little windows of good weather there are to work on it in flat parking lots around here. I legit succeeded with the install but then had a lot of adjustments so was going to have a shop take over so I could let my body heal. Needless to say. I'm quite certain this sour faced lemon joke of a free car is the bane of my existence. Had to run up to Seattle before that appointment and a car up ahead and a lane over ran over a deer and caused it to come over to my lane in front of me. I actually didn't feel thuds or crunches but more glides over it. no tire leaks but blood fluids and fur were all up under the car and wheel wells. And something was indeed wrong. Pulled into a shell and looked see the coil springs on the front and the coils were almost touching. Spent an hour plus adjusting them and got back on it only to pull off in another few miles. After all said and done I discovered one of the springs is permanently 5mm shorter. Then I did some digging and discovered the Godspeed project monoss coilovers for the C-max have the very same spring rates as the roughly 600lb lighter Focus. Which I think was more the problem than the deer. It would explain why the rear at near maximum ride heigh setting is still pretty low. And would certainly cause springs to overcompress. Regardless, I like how much I've learned but I've been out of work since the day before Thanksgiving. Though I like to say I saved a ton (likely in the $4000 range from doing work myself). I also highly recommend a bidirectional scan tool (I got a ThinkDiag2) as you can test components from your phone app rather than hunt down the part then run texts. Okay wow....I'm done (definitely left out much more) but I need some sleep and to regain feeling in my frozen toes haha. I am also more than happy to try and help out whoever. Once I get the coilovers sorted though I'll try And post my thoughts and feeling of them. Maybe throw up some pictures too Not all were created equally hahaha. I've ever my car a C-min(imum). Good luck!

I love the steering in this era of Euro-developed Fords. I wish they were a little chattier, but barely anything from any brand in this era is. They're just well weighted, heavy enough without needing build your biceps, just enough feel, and stable at highway speeds so that a slight motion off center doesn't send you careening towards the next lane.

Well, you made me look. Hardly a replacement for my C-max. ? But if you need seating for 8 and towing that fills the bill. Was expecting a little better mpg's for a hybrid.

In case it helps anyone, I have found it's possible to dramatically improve the cornering/handling of the C-max while keeping the ride quality very similar to stock with some relatively low cost mods. Rear swaybar - This is a *very* cost effective way of making the cmax more eager to turn in, and minimize understeer. A gen 1 Mazdaspeed3 rear sway bar is cheap and fits the C-max; you can use stock Ford end links. Summer tires - A big rear sway bar + decent summer tires will make the Cmax very responsive to steering inputs, and way more fun to drive. Swapping the wheels from my Focus ST, the grip levels actually feel very similar between the Cmax and ST. Comparing sound levels, the worn Focus ST tires (235/40/18 Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetric 2 @3/32" tread depth) are 1-2db louder at 70mph on smooth concrete freeway vs. the OE Michelin Energy Saver AS tires at @5/32" depth. Rear shocks: Koni adjustable yellows for the Focus (8040 1351 Sport) fit; no drilling required. At the softest setting, the ride is close to stock, but still reduces the C-max's tendency to rebound and porpoise. I'm pretty satisfied with the soft setting, but will probably adjust them a bit stiffer at some point. With just the sway bar and tires, the C-max is more engaging in corners than my 2013 Focus was with similar mods. I think it's almost as satisfying in turns as one of my favorites, my 2005 Mazda 3.

I went 273k mi. with out changing the brakes and they were fine when I traded in the car. ? Paul

Well, there goes the trade-in vaue of my 2013!!

In fairness to your dealer, Ford does specify a 12 month oil change interval, in addition to the 10K mile alarm. In a hybrid, neither has a place. I did oil analysis throughout C-Max ownership. The data's attached. One change is early, at 12 months, and the last is extended to 2 years. There is a pattern of low and high water in the oil, with associated flash point depression. It is purely dependent on recent driving; after 100 miles at highway speeds, there's very little water in the oil. That's not true after a large number of short, low-speed trips where the ICE never gets hot. Ford has changed their tune. My new Escape will get ~15K miles on this oil change, because the Escape algorithm uses ICE on-time. Bov Oil Data 191105.pdf

I used the site today. I had to be sure to include the www. in the URL. One of my four latches was apparently never replaced. The dealer only did 3 of 4, the front passenger latch seemed like it was the original. So maybe Ford noticed that many dealerships were cutting corners.

After 5 years, My FOB 1 would not work at all. I put in a new battery, and when I hold the fob next to the steering wheel, I can start the car. But it will not lock or unlock the doors. Any suggestions? The new battery is rated at 3 volts and reads 3.2 volts on a volt meter. The old one read 2.7 volts. The original FOB2 still works fine. Any suggestions?

Here's what it says in the 2016 C-Max Owner Manual: EcoSelect is a drive mode for non-plugin vehicles designed to offer the best possible fuel economy with only a slight impact to vehicle performance and comfort. To switch EcoSelect on, press the ECO button. A graphic displays on your information display when EcoSelect is on. Your vehicle will remember the last selected mode whenever you start your vehicle. EcoSelect allows your vehicle to operate more efficiently. You will notice: • Less aggressive heating and cooling. • Softer acceleration. • More regenerative braking. • Changes in engine behavior. • ECO cruise control activation.

There's always a lot of opinions and heated discussion when it comes to oil and oil changes, so I'll add mine. Every 12 months, regardless of ICE mileage. I drive 75% EV and 25% ICE. Mobil 1 0-20 Motorcraft FL-910S Drive car with ICE for 10-20 miles to heat oil Drain for 30 minutes, rocking the car a couple of times after it's drained Running ICE for a couple of minutes to check for leaks, waiting 10-15 minutes and checking level. First thing in the morning, pulling dipstick and re-checking level

When I read the headline, I thought you'd actually seen a never-before-sighted Ford "efficiency coach". These were announced along with the first round of fuel rebate checks last year.

Yup, I got to see the covers among the other mods Paul has made to squeeze the last ounce of mileage out. After he left I went down to the auto store (for some more stuff for my emergency kit) and the kids working there were asking me what the heck it was that I was driving, as they are used to seeing almost anything and had no idea what it was that *I* had. If only Paul and I could have driven in together <g>. It's another tiny perk of having the C-Max (in that you aren't driving yet *another* Prius).

Thanks Jus! This should be required reading for the SALESMEN at Ford dealerships! They have no clue on how to tell new drivers to drive their cars. One of Asia's running buddies picked up her new loaded SEL C-MAX last week and the idiot salesman told her there was no way she would get over 37mpg!!! Can you believe that? I told her maybe it was a challenge......for her to prove him wrong. I have given her the forum link and expect her to drop in sometime soon.

First off let me say I used to be a motor speed freak while using allot of premium gas in my GMC Syclone. Now I want to mod the looks of my Max with cool aerodynamic add-on's made from carbon fiber for that high tech look despite the cost. Sort of want to copy all the young guys in their euro speed rockets. But alas there are no 3rd party makers of such toys for my Max..at least not yet and I hope it is because the Max is still a new model? I find myself dreaming of trying to fabricate my own front air splitter under the front bumper. Also a rear air disfuser for mounting just behind the rear suspension and run back under the muffler up to the rear bumper. But that will probably screw up the functionality of the one kick tailgate feature? But I'd be willing to give it up for a cool looking rear difuser that integrated with the rear bumper. Want my Max to look like a euro road racer without exceeding 85mph once 3.6x installed. For now dreaming of aero mods.