JAZ

Owners Manual specifies Ford WSS-M2C945-A (page 347, 1st printing) and this requirement is met by Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-20. Currently on sale in my area at Auto Zone @ 5 qts. + Mobil 1 oil filter (M1-102) for $ 31.99. Info gathered from Mobil 1 website and current Auto Zone sale circular.

If I'm understanding you, the two screens you are referencing show Lifetime data (which you can reset) and the other screen shows data for the trip just completed (from the last time you started the engine).

So i guess they did something dirty to it. =\ so i am gonna do a throughout exam to it if i find anything wrong i can refuse to sign off? Until they get your money it's their car, but I think the 'dirty' referred to above was that the dealer had an opportunity to sell the vehicle to another customer. I wonder why the dealer would take six days (and counting) to deliver...that's just ridiculous.

I can't imagine prepping a new vehicle would take more than a day--and that would be excessive. Here's an old quote from the Scion message board: "theres a couple things they do. first is called PDI, pre delivery inspection (i believe is what it stands for). after it comes off the truck, they take all the plastic and junk off it, wash it, half-assley clean it, and check over about 50 things on a list (which you are supposed to get... at least at the honda dealership i worked at). at that point, if the car is not sold already, it sits in a lot waiting to be sold. once it IS sold, they take about half hour to an hour, depending on how busy it is, giving it a full wash and detail. the whole process from start to finish takes a few hours, and can be done in a day. if you install any parts to it (that you dont come back later to put on), it may take a little longer, but not too much, and still shouldnt take more than a day total. my guess is that it may be another car, and not yours. OR, they did something dirty, which i've seen a number of times, and your car DID come in, someone else saw it, and they sold it to them. if they did that, they'll give you some PR line about how they messed up your order and have to order another one, etc etc. anyway, if it is yours, you should be able to drive it home the day it arives. MAYBE the next day if they are really busy."

Good points all: I just discovered a major error a couple of days ago on two major roads in Detroit. Going to be checking to see if it continues to be wrong or was a one-off. But on a Florida/Texas trip it always seemed to be spot on. 3.5.1.

Drove over 20 miles through Houston during a heavy downpour months ago and experienced no issues other than a large drop in mpgs during the drive. I know that some under the hood electrical connectors look exposed, but the panel under the front of the car would seem to block much of the water. Just saying...

Adair posted: "Now I can go into my dealership and speak with some semblance of knowledge about my car.........it's empowering!" I would add that reading this board has certainly been enlightening. Additionally, the variety of posts and posters has been engaging.

Hey Matt: you want rudeness and inconsiderate folk, just start a thread about politics or religion... John

"We're taking a big trip in a few weeks to the Carolinas. It will be interesting how it performs on that trip. Anything over 40 MPG will be a major bonus, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep myself from staying under 70 MPH the whole time 40 mpg wouldn't surprise me, but the more you exceed 70 mph, the less likely that will be.

No pic, but 609.1 miles and 12.1 gallons used for 50.3 mpg. I was gonna go for 700, but my wife objected to me wanting her to walk the last hundred miles...

They were topping off the tank for mpg comparisons: specifically recommended against by Ford.

Definitely Day/Month

That build date should guarantee you have 3.5.1 and the A4 maps.

Matt, I'm thinking that with your tire psi @ 51, you must have some pretty decent roads where you are. Here in Michigan with the spring thaw(s) and resultant potholes--aka bathtubs--- I'd be fearful of running those pressures.

I'm way outta the loop: I use a pencil, paper and sometimes a calculator...

I've carelessly been in Low a couple of times, but the engine noise when accelerating promptly told me I wasn't in Drive.

It's pretty simple: if any of us choose to go for the highest mileage, we steal Matt's Max.

From the Owners Manual: Choosing the Right Fuel Use only UNLEADED fuel or UNLEADED fuel blended with a maximum of 15% ethanol. Do not use fuel ethanol (E85), diesel fuel, fuel-methanol, leaded fuel or any other fuel because it could damage or impair the emission control system. The use of leaded fuel is prohibited by law. Octane Recommendations Regular unleaded gasoline with a pump (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87 is recommended. Some stations offer fuels posted as Regular with an octane rating below 87, particularly in high altitude areas. Fuels with octane levels below 87 are not recommended.

And a tip o' the hat to Red Green, too!

Canadiens?

I've recorded several fillups where the pump recorded 8% more fuel than the vehicle reported. Like wab, I've had a couple fillups use 1% less than reported, but overall the vehicle reports better mileage than the fuel pump. Conversely, the odometer reads about 1.5% low.

I'm a bit confused: it's definitely numbers 69 and 79 and NOT 67 ?

Ditto, hundreds of visits for me too. OCD

Wow!

I will use this till 10,000 and then I'm thinking of going to their 0w20. Mobil does recommend it for the C-Max and by then the ICE should be pretty well broken in. Fotomoto, I'm also a fan of Mobil 1 0w-20, having used it for several years in all my vehicles. I don't think it's classed as an extended service oil (i.e., 10,000 miles 'twixt changes), but I was wondering if 5,000 changes might be suitable with our hybrids.