drdiesel1

So you're saying to continue to be put through this problem at the cost of a battery ? Not worth it for me :drop:

Running the defroster turns on the A/C compressor to remove the moisture from the air. You're also running it on HIGH, so it's gonna use maximum power to operate the system at that level. Try setting it to a slightly lower fan speed. Crack two windows for cross flow air and turn the defroster off in favor of the dash vents. This should keep the cabin vented and the windows clear. This should improve your MPG's. What tire pressures are you running ???? I run 50 psi in mine. I have 3500 miles on my C-Max and the tires are wearing nicely. Give it a try, before you lose it :victory:

I just hooked up my charger again. It's back to 50% SOC. I charged it last week, so it's a problem. Looks like I'll be trying a new battery soon. I'll update this thread when I have more info. on this issue. I do notice when my HV charging cord is plugged in, the 12V operated HV battery cooling fan runs all the time. While the key is off, the DC/DC system isn't charging the 12V battery. I'm beginning to think this might be part of the problem too. The HVB is done charging but the cooling fan is running continually with the cord plugged in. Without the DC/DC charging input, the 12V battery is left to handle the load by itself. This could certainly be a problem. Anything over a 35 m/a voltage draw can kill a 12V battery in a short time. I think I'll do some testing to see what the amperage load to the 12V battery is while parked with nothing running, also while the HVB cooling fan is on. Should prove to be an interesting bug hunt :kookie:

Ford does not make batteries. The have a battery supplier and they label them MotorCraft. It's certainly possible to get a bad batch of batteries. It's also possible those bad batteries are in the thousands, number wise. The supplier sends them by the truckload to the production plant and workers install them. Dealers get the same batteries and put them on the shelf to sell. If this is the case, it takes a while to get something done to eliminate the faulty batteries. You might go by a replacement A/C Delco battery and see if this corrects your problem. I've been keeping an eye on mine. It was @ 50% SOC the day I brought is home. I've charged it 3 times already. I've updated my BECM and all the other modules that had updates available. Even the DC/DC control module was reprogrammed. I refuse to be jerked around by the dealer, so I'll see if I can resolve this low battery issue on my own, even if I need to buy a battery. If that fixes it, I'll ask for a reimbursement for the cost of the battery.

A low 12V battery could very well be the cause of these types of issue's.

No 2014's out yet. Probably a 2013 before the PDI

Installed my Hitch today :love_shower:

Yes! They did have a TSB for noise issue's due to leaks. I never heard mine, so I'll just continue to enjoy it. I rarely use A/C here anyways.

Using EV off the hills on the freeway at 65 or above is a nice feature. The update shouldn't effect your city driving mpg numbers.It will reset the system and you'll need to start over, but it won't change it otherwise. I would encourage you to get it done, as there are other updates for other modules that should be done. The BECM, the BCM, the PCM, the ABS, the SOBDM, and the SOBDMC also have updates. Updating the systems is the best thing you can do for overall system operation and integrity. They fix a lot of glitches and anomalies with software updates. It's the first thing I look for to correct a customer complaint. TSB are the next research stop. A lot of TSB direct techs to software updates to correct problems. Today's cars are heavily computerized and require a knowlegible tech with the right information to resolve customer complaints. "Oldschool" parts chucking is dead. Long live the "Newschool" of computers and software fixes :victory:

The A/C unit is an electric pump. All pumps make noise while pumping ;) As for the dealer checking the oil level, that's a B/S statement. The only way to check oil level is to drain the oil in the compressor and capture the rest from the Freon and measure them together. Not gonna happen. I really doubt they even checked it. It's easiest to compare it to another unit like they did. Showing the customer proof is the best way to resolve a NON issue, issue. Otherwise, they'll always have doubts and continue to pursue the noise as a problem. Happy Motoring :love_shower:

That's great that you have a good dealer to rely on. A large majority of dealers aren't worth a sh-t. Most dealer staff are under paid and won't take the time or care about your warranty issue's. It's a shame, but it's the way thing are going due to the bottom line way of life working for a dealership.

Shipping materials to protect the rims during the trip from the factory. Most new cars are completely covered.

I already gave you the information. The fuel pump runs to keep the ICE running. No fuel from the pump equals no ICE operation.

Push the button half way and it won't run to the full open/closed position. It will stop when you let off the button :drop:

If you go back and look at it again... It states vehicles serviced in North America don't require a label.

Got a picture ????

Like I said. Programming is either done or it's not. An incomplete programming attempt can brick the PCM if it fails. There are more than 1 module updates. The updates are a fixed calibration file. No file or calibration can be altered by the programmer. The IDS will program the modules. It's all automated and controlled by the IDS. If the tech didn't look for the latest updates, then you could have older software or he could have missed a control module. I own the Ford IDS factory tool. I subscribe to the IDS website and program vehicles for indy shops, everyday. I did my C-Max the day (8/18) after I purchased it. 3 weeks later, I found 2 more updates available. We get updates every month and some come twice in a month. It's all depends on what Ford releases. I don't base updates on MPG data. I base updates on calibration file ID's. Here's the latest for my car as of 8/19/2013

Here's an educational photo set. Just so you have an idea of what's, what. This pump is from a 2010 Ford Mustang GT. Fuel is passed though the pump and out the top of the body. All the internals are cooled and lubricated at the same time.

When I ran my tank dry, the engine just stopped and I EVd to the gas station and immediately put fuel in the tank. When I restarted, the engine started immediately with no cranking. The purpose of running my tank dry was to see how far it would stretch and find out the exact capacity of the tank when refueling. It is only necessary to do this once...and I am not recommending that running your tank dry should be done with every tank of fuel. IMO I believe the fuel pump shuts off when the ICE shuts off so I don't see a problem here. Your thinking is backwards. The ICE shut off because the fuel supply stopped. The problem is running the pump dry. The pump is cooled and lubricated by the fuel it pumps. You don't understand pump design and have no idea what type of damage doing this will cause. Pumps have a bushing in the end plate. The pump itself is a hybrid plastic. Heat is the enemy. Most current day pumps run about 7000 RPM. Without lubrication, they'll smoke out pretty fast. As the fuel level in the tank drops below the body of the pump, it will start to run hot. The pump modules are designed to keep the pump submersed in fuel. Running it dry is a fools game, but I'm sure you know better than all the Ford engineers that designed it. So keep giving bad advise on something you don't understand. DON'T RUN YOUR TANKS DRY!

That's odd! I'm in and out of my C-Max all day long, everyday. I use it for work and the doors get heavy use. I haven't experienced anything like this on my car :camera:

Impossible. There's no such thing as: It didn't take properly. Either it's programmed or it's not. My bet is they never did the updates.

Sounds like your dealer is jerking you around. There's no such thing as it didn't take. Either it's reprogrammed or it's not. My bet is they never updated your modules. I've been programming vehicles for the last 20 years. Your SA is a jackass.

I only leave it on in the hills. Where did you read that info. ? Got a link or can you post that statement ?

Yeah, but the ICE turns in fuel cut mode and it's only used a decel control after the battery tops out. With the Energi, I don't have that problem unless it a big downhill and my battery is close to full. I use the DHA on small hills too. I run with it on all the time when driving in the hills. It's easy to utilize after you use it for awhile :love_shower:

While running the tank to empty to verify fuel capacity sounds like a good idea, I can assure you it's not. The fuel pump is cooled by the fuel that runs through it. Allowing the pump to run dry will shorten it's lifespan and will also cause extended cranking after the vehicle has been parked for long periods. Like overnight or even as short as 2 to 3 hours. Pumps aren't designed to be run dry and often fail prematurely from this type of abuse.