drdiesel1

Your testing the voltage with the hatch open and all the interior and outside lights on. It's best to pop the hood and check the battery voltage at the power stud on the left (drivers) side of the engine compartment. This way, you're not causing the battery voltage to drop and you get a true reading. I leave the hood popped open when parking it. That way, I don't disturb the system from opening the door, to open the hood. You'll drop a few volts with all the lights on and it will take a few min. for the battery to recover the loss after they go off.

This charger is simple to use. Open the hood and connect it to the 12V power stud and a ground point. Plug it in and set the button for a 15 amp charge. The charger will do the rest. If you did this once a month you could avoid a dead battery issue. I would advise you to do this for the short term. Just to make your car reliable until they get it fixed properly. Having the charger will allow you to never be stranded with a dead battery.

The TPMS system detects tire pressures. It has a high and a low threshold. Without the sensor to send a signal to the module, it takes awhile to trigger the lamp.

Are you using the USB port for a thumb drive or iPod ? Why not buy a cheap but good charger until they resolve this issue ? Here's the one I've been using for the last 2 years. It's cheap and foolproof. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_7?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ship%20n%20shore%20speed%20charge%20ssc-1500a&sprefix=ship+n+%2Caps%2C335&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aship%20n%20shore%20speed%20charge%20ssc-1500a You won't need to wait for a tow truck and you can drive the car until a "REAL" fix is found. You should have the TSB performed to correct the voltage problem. I don't think it was available back in, MAY ? The Toyota is a turd................................... :drop: :spend:

Deep cycle batteries aren't designed for automotive use. RV and Marine use. The DC/DC converter charges the 12V battery.

Nope! That's as far as it will lift.

So my USB thumb drive and my iPod have been plugged into the USB ports. I found my thumb drive being pinged, even with the system off. My iPod was also being charged as far as I can tell. I didn't verify it. I was more concerned with the system continually staying awake and pinging my thumb drive. I'm hoping this was the cause of my 12V batteries SOC issue. I removed both units from my USB port 2 days ago. My battery voltage was 12.64V when tested 2 days ago. I tested the SOC and it was @ 70% I'm currently charging the battery back to 100% SOC and will monitor the 12V battery condition over the next 2 weeks to see if it's a viable fix. Only time will tell, but I'm pretty confident it will enable the system to stay at a more normal rate. I'm hoping for at least 75%. 85% would be great, IMO :love_shower:

Are you looking at the doors and fenders ? They have a drop from front to rear to help with drag. NORMAL.

If the car is turned on/run position, the HV battery will be charging the 12V battery via the DC/DC converter.

I wonder if they plan on removing the lifetime function from early production vehicles as well ????

That very well could be. Not all recalls and bulletins apply to every car. The VIN is the deciding factor based on production changes. Known problems are correct during production and may have been updated before the release of information. You should always wait to see what for sends out for recall information and have your dealer check Oasis info anytime your car is in for service work. That Etis site, is a Euro site and I don't know if the info is valid or not ???

I had one of the batch I purchased that was junk.

So it's okay for he to be insulting to me because she's #32..............? I don't think so, so until she learns to keep her comments civil you should consider your NOTE to her as well. It takes two to disrupt a thread and I'm not the one who started the disrespectful behavior. Regardless of her inability to understand what to expect, it's uncalled for....and there is no excuse for it..........Thanks!

I've read every post and don't see a problem. I offered helpful information too. Don't be a hateful idiot.You're obviously never gonna be happy..... Go buy a Toyota, buddy! NOTE FROM ADAIR.....We don't ever call anyone idiots..........ever! This may be acceptable on other forums, but not here. And Laurel has been around here longer than most anyone else......# 32 on the roster. So have a little respect and understanding of her frustration. We are all ...... ALL....new to hybrids and we learn from each other. But not by being insulting.

And you consider this BAD MILEAGE ?

EV will run to 85 mph!

The Scan Gauge II will also read code information. I don't know it limits, but it should work for all PCM data. I use the Ford IDS scan tool. I'm a shop owner and make money with it, so it's easy for me to have the dealer equipment ;)

Yep! Just push the button and the compressor will turn off.

Without knowing what DTC the system is reporting, you can guess and futz with the car all day and get nowhere. You need to know what code is stored before you can assume what the problem might be. The PCM will store a code based on what it's reading from input data. That will tell you what system has an issue and you'll need to diagnose it from there. Guessing won't do anything and could cause you to set a false code. By opening the seal on the fuel filler neck, you'll cause the fuel tank pressure sensor to see the pressure change that shouldn't be taking place and it could very well set a code that the dealer can't duplicate. Then they'll keep the car for testing and waste more time on something you caused. Keeping your car for longer than needed. Just keep tinkering with it. When they keep it for a month and can't find anything wrong, you can complain about it to Ford. Stop monkeying around with something you don't understand.

Someone is telling you B/S. You can't perform the same update twice. Sounds like the dealer techs can't diagnose your cars problem. Your P2183 is a simple coolant sensor fault. It's a 2 wire circuit and shouldn't be very difficult to diagnose. Their lame excuses just add fuel to the fire. They need to verify the CTS input values to the PCM, first.

A jumper box is nothing more than a 12V battery with a built in charger and two cables. Hooking it to the jumper stud under the hood will give the 12V battery enough juice to active the control modules and allow the system to close the latching contacts, allowing the car to start. However! Not properly charging the battery with a battery charger will not allow the system to return to a full charge, as the DC/DC converter isn't designed to bring the battery to a full charge state. This will require a charger like the one in my link. Always use a smart/micro processor charger so you don't damage the battery and cause more damage to the vehicle and it's systems.

So I was looking in my center console for something and noticed my thumbdrive LED would flash, stop and flash again. I spotted it while the car was on yesterday, but didn't pay much attention to it. This time the car is off. I have the Sony Audio system and also have my iPod plugged into the second USB port. When I unplugged the iPod, the display screen flashed on. Looks like I'll be doing the parasitic load to test next. This could very well be why my 12V SOC drops to 50% over a short period of time. I'll run my tests ASAP. Here's the thread from the Energi Forum http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/1645-12-volt-battery-soc/

Sweet! My 2013 BMW R1200GS Adventure only gets about 40 mpg on those roads :)

Yep! Added as many LED's to the C-Max as possible and have them in a few outlets in the home. Planning to go all LED at the house.

Car or both. Sync 3.6.2 is the latest version to date.