drdiesel1

Don't blame Ford for your dealers inability to properly diagnose your car. It's obvious they misdiagnosed it the very first time and failed to QC it before they returned it to you. Incompetence is a common issue in the dealers service departments. They don't pay very well and most have a flat rate system. Flat rate breeds comebacks. "There's never enough time to do it right the first time, but there's always time to do it over". This has been our motto for years. I worked for GM for 38 years as an hourly technician and left the dealers when the Corporation took over. They killed our union and started the flat rate system. It's not a good environment to work in and the customer is the one that suffers most. I wish you luck with your MIL problem, but don't blame the car. Sure things happen in production that will cause problems, but the dealer is responsible for not fixing it right the first time.

Welcome.....You might not P&G now, but you will after you learn how to maximize your MPG numbers. The car will teach you how to be a more efficient driver as well as learning how to spend less at the pump :happy feet: Enjoy the tech and the ride :love_shower:

I think it's a smarter way to do business. Toyota floods the market and is forced to sell them off at lower prices. Keeping inventory in check will insure you don't over run yourself and loose money with a deflated product. The Energi can be had a great price with all the rebates and incentives. With the SEL trim level, it's a smokin deal @ 27,400 out the door with Nav and the Sony audio system.

Fuel slosh in the tank will make the float read differently when going up or down hill. Acceleration or braking can have the same affect. The best way to check it would be sitting still on a level surface.

By disconnecting the 12V battery, it resets everything to the default settings. You'll need to go through the settings and reconfigure everything to return it back the way you had it. If you have a battery charger, I would charge the battery too. Who knows how long that battery has been sitting on a shelf. I charge all batteries before installing them.

This would be a good idea. It will maximize battery health and life as an added benefit.

I bought the Energi over the Hybrid for the available EV range. That little bit of cargo space isn't an issue for me. My Energi is awesome and I can do most of my weekday driving in EV mode. I drive to Santa Cruz on Saturdays, but I still get great MPG numbers. It's the only car for me and after adding up all the rebates, incentives, zero % loan and the CA green cash refund. My C-Max Energi was 24,700.00 OTD :love_shower:

My car had the headliner update done before I bought it. I have not been back to the dealer for anything. I did have my audio system flake out, but I cleared the communication error codes and it's been fine ever since. I did update my software the day after I purchased my C-Max. I updated my IDS last week and will chack for the latest updates today. My car has been working just fine. My lifetime MPG number is 68 mpg. That's worth a few first year bugs, in my book :happy feet: I just turned 3500 miles :love_shower:

We need a way to turn off the headlamps when the car is in for service. Otherwise, the battery would be dead all the time. The headlamp sentinel is a great design. Just get use to it. It does exactly what you are asking. Not all manufactures define it's function the same. Maybe a standard function should be adopted for all cars ;)

All cars come with the metal keys. They're in the pack the dealer hands you or in the glove box. You open them and install them into the FOB's. If they are not in the pack, the dealer is responsible for getting them for you.

CassyD: It's true....... You can't go back to older software and the system programs, or not. No such thing as didn't take or only some of it took. The programming control is all automated so you can't tweak anything. The system is reset. The KAM is wiped and all the adaption data is reset. Give the car time to relearn and build the adaption tables. The software will improve your MPG's. Don't be hasty. Give it some time :waiting: You should also make sure and reset your trip data and lifetime data, if they were not reset during the updates.

Yep! The computer systems will be active even when the car is off. Some Ford models have been known to be active up to 45 min. All modules have KAM. Keep Alive Memory. Modules can wake the system buss and cause other modules to active and check for each others signals. Hybrids have a lot of control routines and will make all kinds of noise, new hybrid drivers don't expect.

Anytime :hat_tip:

Hopefully this will resolve your problems, but I'm concerned if the battery was properly charged too ?

Yep! Turn the power on and push the power window switch down and hold it until the window stops. Continue to hold the switch for about 2 seconds after it stops. Pull the window switch to raise the window until it closes. Continue to hold the switch for another 2 seconds after the window closes. Do this for each window and your auto and pinch mode should be restored to normal :)

I think it's a misprint from the Focus EV manual.

Time to install the block heater and use a timer to have a warm engine at drive time. Set it two hours before you leave the house.

You need to charge the battery and retrain the auto window feature on all 4 windows.

I am a professional :victory: My USB thumb drive has an LED and I can watch it when the system pings it. It's being pinged all the time. I only assumed the iPod was being charged too. I never said it was for sure, but I can tell you my voltage readings are staying above 12.6 volts after unplugging both. I have the Ford IDS and my system is 100% up to date. I check it for updates when Ford sends me the latest IDS software. They update the IDS twice a month. My system has no faults or codes.

Overcharging would be the main reason. They should maintain the battery from 75% to 95% on average. I rarely see batteries above 85% even in new cars.

It would be easier to verify if the heater element was even present in the back of the block ;)

Nope! The A/C outlet is only powered when the system/key/button is on. You'll need to get an extension cord to use the charger.

I'm not sure what it could be. I drive an Energi, so it charges my 12V battery, when I charge the HVB. There's only 1 way that I know of to check for a parasitic load that will cause dead batteries. Otherwise it's a guessing game. Sometimes a low SOC on a 12V battery is never corrected because no one ever properly charges the 12V battery. This leaves the battery in a low voltage state. It shortens the batteries life too. Never having enough reserve power can cause a sudden dead battery. The vehicles charging system is only designed to maintain the battery. You need to plug it into a good charger to get it back to a 100% SOC level. I do all my regular vehicles every 6mo. I'll be charging my Energi every 1 to 2 months or as required to maintain it's 12V battery in the 85% range. I don't like to see my batteries under a 75% SOC and always maintain them. It's part of regular maintenance, IMO. You never detect the batteries state of charge on a hybrid due to the lack of a conventional starter. When you use the 12V battery to start a conventional ICE, the starter load gives you an idea of how well the 12V battery is, based on starter speed/drag. The hybrid vehicle uses the HVB and MG1 to start the car, so you never see it coming. Most drivers don't understand how their car starts/works, so they're surprised when it happens out of nowhere. It's not out of nowhere, really. It's been there all the time, but it goes unnoticed until it's to late. The 12V battery powers the input request from the start key/button through the BCM and activates the HVB contacts. Without the 12V power, the BCM can't function. There is no more 250 amp starter load placed on the the 12V battery to know if it's low. You need to use a meter to know where it's at, or you risk the dead battery syndrome. I know Ford is aware of the this problem and I'm sure they will have a fix, but until then, I would use the charger once a week and make sure my battery stays healthy, properly charged and ready to go :victory:

Jump starts are a temporary band-aid. Without properly CHARGING the battery you'll have the same problem, again. Having an undercharged battery will also shorten it's life span. I use a micro processor battery charger that's fool proof. I've been using this charger for the last 2 or so years. My wife's battery lasted 8 yrs. to the month in her car. I do a 6 mo. service charge on all my vehicles to promote battery health and longer life. I use it on my motorcycles too. I've been using on my C-Max. The day after I bought my car, I found the battery at a 50% state of charge. I charged it up and found out my USB drive was being pinged all the time and my iPod was being charged all the time too. I unplugged them both and my battery problems have stopped. I recommend you spend the money on a charger and not a jumper. The charger will condition your battery as well as keeping it charged. A jumper will only work to start a dead battery and nothing else. If you check and charge the battery on a regular basis until a fix is found, you'll never have a dead battery. Even if you did, the charger will enable you to get enough power to start the car. Here's the one, I use and recommend http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SSC-1500A-SpeedCharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B000H961YI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382038990&sr=8-1&keywords=ship+n+shore+speed+charge+ssc-1500a

Really ?????????????? http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/wds/diagnosticsites/ids/mcs/ Ford Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS): The Ford Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) will be the only equipment that provides complete diagnostic coverage of current and future Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles in North America. The IDS package replaces the Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS). The IDS application will perform the identical functions of the WDS and allows dealership technicians to diagnose and service Ford, Lincoln, Mercury vehicles. As the new diagnostic tool, IDS will be required to perform diagnostics on future model year vehicles. One IDS Package is recommended for each WDS in the dealership. IDS is enhanced WDS software that was modified to run on a standard laptop platform, and utilizes the VCM and VMM. Moving IDS to a laptop helps technicians by integrating access to both diagnostics and service information on a single, powerful machine. I had my dealer print out an updated TSB from his system. It's as easy as having a printer plugged into the laptop.