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Have you scanned all modules for DTCs. The Engineering Test Mode does not record all DTCs in the car. U0415:86 Invalid Data Received From ABS Control Module: Signal Invalid This DTC sets when the Parking Aid Module (PAM) receives invalid network data from the ABS module with a faulted signal data input. RETRIEVE and REPAIR all non-network Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in the other modules on the network U0424:82 Invalid Data Received From HVAC Control Module: Alive/Sequence Counter Incorrect/Not Updated Sets in continuous memory in the IPC if invalid data messages received from the HVAC module for 5 seconds or longer. Possible Sources Communication concern Battery voltage concern HVAC module IPC U0424 - Invalid Data Received from HVAC Control Module Description: Network DTC concerns occur during module to module communication. Possible Causes: Invalid data network concerns - data is transferred within the normal inter-module message, but contains known invalid data. The transmitting module logs a DTC related to the invalid data concern. Missing message network concerns - missing message concerns are logged by the module upon failure to receive a message from another module within a defined retry period. Diagnostic Aids: Check for other SOBDMC DTCs or SOBDMC related symptoms. Diagnose all other SOBDMC DTCs or SOBDMC related symptoms first. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test QD .

HVB capacity fade (degradation) and HVB Internal wiring is not covered by Ford under the Unique Hybrid Components 8 yr /100k warranty. I can recall just a few that have had a manufacturing defect with the HVB and have had it covered under warranty. The capacity fade issue In the Energi is that the usable EV only kWh is around 5.4 kWh, when new, out of the initial 7.6 kWh HVB capacity. The difference of around 2.2 kWh is for hybrid operation and minimum operating limit (can’t discharge below a certain level). So, if the HVB capacity fade is 25%, one loses a greater % of usable EV range. For example, 25% capacity fade is around 1.9 kWh or about 35% of EV only range. Some have reported a capacity fade of 2.4 kWh or a loss of nearly 45% in EV range. Thus, one would see their new EV only mileage range nearly cut in half. Once capacity fade reaches a certain level, one is probably better off simply operating the HVB as a hybrid and not plugging in anymore and charging to full capacity. Thus, the HVB should be good for several 100k miles. So, before buying a used Energi one should know how much capacity the HVB has lost so one is not disappointed as several buyers of used Energis have been.

Advancetrac is likely used on all Ford vehicles. Is the warning a message or light? When do you get the message / light? Is Check Engine light on? Where are you located? Is traction control disabled or on? Do you notice issues with the performance when you get the message? Do you have an Energi? I would think most good independent shops can trouble shoot the issue. Go to Autozone and they can / should scan your car for diagnostic trouble codes. However, their code readers may not scan all modules in the car but should at least scan the PCM and ABS module.

Welcome. Well, I really don’t think you are going to be able “nip” the Issue “in the bud.” The link below is the latest TSB on the issue. Also, I’ve attached the latest Ford OBD System Operation Manual which you will likely enjoy reading. OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148717-9999.pdf

Did you scan all modules for diagnostic trouble codes? Why did you change the compressor? Get the FORScan App, an OBDII interface adapter, and the Service Manual (about $50 to $100 total depending on the adapter- look on FORScan website for recommended adapters or buy a cheap knock off on Ebay). https://forscan.org/home.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2013-2014-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual/303622595024?hash=item46b15121d0:g:d50AAOSwdnNdu4HJ

This sounds like the evaporator core is icing up. There is a temperature sensor in the duct work which the AC control algorithm uses to cycle the compressor on /off . When evaporator core temp drops to around 35F the compressor is cycled off to prevent ICE from forming on the core which begins blocking air flow and cooling of the warm air. Failure of the sensor is a common problem on most vehicles. It’s about a $20 part and easy to replace. I would just change it and see if issue goes away. See image below. Pry small plastic panel off center lower console panel by drivers knee to access sensor. See ebay link below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Evaporator-Temperature-Sensor-MOTORCRAFT-YH-1771/253081785517?fits=Year%3A2013|Model%3AC-Max&epid=140427623&hash=item3aecd994ad:g:7MoAAOSwROleTBhQ#rwid

The link below is the complete Ford Service Manual and it has the wiring diagrams. It will have the test procedures for the DTC. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2017-2018-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual/303621155197?hash=item46b13b297d:g:ST4AAOSw2k5dw5WN

Did you get the SM with wiring diagrams as it has the procedures for the DTC? Yes, the HVB disconnect must be pulled and 12 V battery must be disconnected. I believe the wiring is only covered under the 3/36 warranty. There was one poster (maybe on the apparently defunct CMax Energi Forum) had an issue with HVB wiring which was not covered under warranty. The Unique Hybrid Components Warranty (8/100k) should cover the BECM, DCDC, and SOBDMC.

An Ah-ha moment, I believe that’s when I heard a load clunk at least once. On most of our trips back East, I’d take US 60 out of Phoenix and drive through the Salt River Canyon in the mountains using hill assist and “L” instead of friction brakes. A few times I had no traffic and made it all the way down without using friction brakes going down about 5 miles and IIRC 1800 feet with hair pins turns. My speeds would range from about 60 mph down to 15 mph around the hairpins. I believe the loud clunk may have happened when I shifted out of low at lower speeds. I can’t recall whether hill assist was on / off as I would also toggle it.

I believe SS’s theory on cause of failure. I’ve been saying the following for a long time. Ford says “ under certain driving conditions”, failures may occur. We need to “figure out” the conditions and mitigate the conditions. Perhaps, the salient point to longevity of the transmission may be avoiding / mitigating the conditions that cause a clunk. A clunk would seem to be caused by an abrupt change in torque like backing off accelerator momentarily (perhaps to engage EV mode when battery SOC is high). Thus, there would be momentary regeneration torque (negative torque to wheels) followed by EV motor torque (positive torque to wheels) as accelerator pedal is pushed to maintain speed. It seems that ICE to EV or EV to ICE torque transfer under normal driving is always seamless as the torque demand on the shaft would always be in same direction and likely the same and not cause a clunk as when going into regeneration (no positive torque demand). I also believe that it may take a substantial number of times of this reversal of torque to shift bearings on the shaft for the clunk to occur. The axial force that the bearing retainers are “holding against” act like a “slide hammer” against the retaining surface. I have heard clunks on rare occasions from front. But, I’m not sure at what speeds or what my exact driving condition were at the time and whether the clunk was from transmission. I’m fairly sure the clunks have occurred at lower speeds (maybe under 45 mph) and not say above 65 mph. I don’t believe I’ve ever experienced a clunk shifting into reverse. I also don’t believe the clunks have occurred when torque was transferred from ICE to EV or EV to ICE. About 70 % of my miles are high speed miles. I always thought (like SS said) the clunks, if from transmission, were an anomaly caused by the control algorithms.

I've got 129 k miles on my 2013 with no apparent transmission issues. Since trade-in value is minimal, I see no reason to trade it. I'm putting less miles on each year as it ages (about 10 k per year now). So, I intend to keep a few more years. However, at the first sign of pending failure (likely whirring noise), I'll trade it and hope to get a couple thousand for it. Ford has a transfer shaft / bearing kit replacement should the bearings start to fail. But, you must catch the failure prior to the output shift boring a hole through the case. If you catch it, you will save the cost difference between a used transmission and the kit less 1.6 hours of labor. My guess maybe a $1000 savings as the labor and other parts required would likely be the same whether replacing transmission or repairing. You can look at the TSBs on the transmission issue and see the labor and likely parts difference between repairing the transmission and replacing the transmission.

Okay, we all like to hype our MPG at likely higher speeds than actual but we are talking about constant speed on flat ground (no hypermiling) per the INL tests. The C-Max can not get 43 to 48 mpg (actual fuel burned over miles driven) at a constant speed of 72.5 mph (70-75 averaged). On flat ground the C-Max will run in negative split mode virtually continuously at higher speeds which means ICE is on all the time. Torque requirement don't change and HVB SOC is in the high 50% range continually. When the 2013 C-Max first came out Cleanmpg tested it. I've attached a graph of their data. I have tested my C-Max FE many times over measured distances in both directions at constant speeds and generally get slightly higher numbers than the chart (but I run higher PSI. Ford did add a few aero enhancements in later modes that would affect the numbers somewhat and increasing PSI in tires might add 1 mpg max. The INL FE data used RLHP coefficients that under stated the final 2014 RLHP by over 8% for speeds above 15 mph. The effect on FE of the under stated numbers is seen in the EPA FE data. Ford lowered the EPA (city, hwy, combined) FE numbers from 47/47/47 initially to 45/40/43 in 2013 and then to 42/37/40 in 2014. So, the INL numbers are likely at least 2 mpg to high. I have also attached the RLHP chart for the C-Max Hybrid for comparison on how the RLHP numbers changed with Ford's revisions.

Unfortunately, those numbers used the incorrect RLHP coefficients when setting up the dynamometer. At 75 mph I’m lucky to get 36 mpg with AC off. Here’s my 2015 post on it.

Put the Empower display up and see where the “EV off / ICE on” bar is. The bar is generally a function of SOC of HVB (when in EV+ it moves higher). Since the torque requirement should be small, the bar should be well above actual demand.

Before the car goes into ready to drive mode, all modules and systems are validated. Modules go through a self test / check which should pick up any anomalies which would prevent normal hybrid operation and if an anomaly were found, the car would not go into ready to drive mode. ICE never starts immediately under “normal” conditions. ICE starts when torque demand or other operator inputs exceed thresholds. One can drive in EV quite a while on cold startup before ICE starts when higher SOC provided thresholds are not exceeded. There may “extreme” conditions like low ECT, low ambient temp, max defrost / heat and so forth when ICE will start. When ICE does start and runs, the comprehensive emissions monitoring begins. Here’s a copy of the latest I’ve found. There are many factors which the control algorithms will use to determine ICE on and ICE off / EV operations. OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf

I don't believe 2014 MY had DRLs enabled from factory unless your car was a fleet vehicle. I don't know whether MY 2015 had DRLs enabled but someone with a 2015 should know the answer. Again dealer should be able to turn off DRLs in MY 2014 but will likely charge $100+ for a 10 minute job. I'm fairly sure if you search the Fusion Hybrid forum and maybe the FORScan forum, someone has used FORScan to configure DRLs and the C-Max. Below is a link for a Ford truck using FORScan to configure DRLs. There are many online videos using FORScan. DRLs are controlled by the BCM. So, about the only thing you could do is to install a manual toggle switch in the head lamp low beam circuits. I am not aware of any fuses you can pull that would disable DRLs yet allow the BCM to perform its function while car is running. Also, don't other daytime running lights also come on besides headlamps with DRLs?

What year car? Evidently your car has DRLs enabled. On early MY C-Maxes DRLs, IIRC, were an option on fleet cars only. One could thus turn them on / off with a Ford Software tool (dealer can do it) or by changing data using the FORScan application. https://forscan.org/home.html I believe in 2017 and 2018 C-Maxes Ford made them standard at lest on high end models. The owner's manual should tell you if the DRLs are configurable.

With respect to seat removal it looks relatively easy to remove both seats. I'd suggest buying the DVD Service Manual / Download SM from an EBay seller. Search ebay for your MY Ford C-Max Service Manual - looks like $10-$25 now.

I’ll look in the SM on seat removal. I use AC with car on for up to an hour at a time for our dog when traveling when we stop for meals. It works fine. I assume you have a hybrid and not the Energi. So, the hybrid battery has a very small usable kWh range between charging / discharging. It will not charge full (full is about 70% SOC ) with ICE but only around 50 % or so and then ICE shuts down. One may get about 15% usable SOC or so to run AC and other load before ICE has to start. The climate usage demand will depend mostly on outside temperature and set point temperature which likely yields between 250 - 400 Watts if Ambient temps aren’t too high. Add the parasitic load when ICE is off, but car is on - likely several 100 Watts - and the total demand might be around 500 - 800 Watts. This means ICE might start around 3-4 times a hour for maybe 2-4 minutes each time. If ICE charges at 6 kW, it would take about 2 minutes to replace 200 Wh of energy consumed from the HVB (15% x 1. 4 kWh new HVB capacity). These are nominal values and depends on climate conditions and set point temperatures of the AC.

Are there any additional numbers after B112B? like :87 which is the BCM looses communications with the SASM. Do, the wipers work when this happens, although perhaps if communication is restored wipers will work but not cruise as SM seems to indicate CC may remain inoperative (likely until a restart when the BCM checks if it can communicate with modules). Bottom line is that one has to tear apart the steering wheel to get to the wiring to see where the problem is likely regardless of any 2 digit appended codes. I can't find :07 in the manual.

Cruise control is disabled if there is a detected issue and there is no indication to the driver of it being disabled. The input from the cruise control switch is processed by the Steering Angle Sensor Module and sent to the BCM via the HSCan. "The cruise control steering wheel mounted switches are momentary contact switches. Each steering wheel switch function corresponds to a specific resistance value. The SASM sends out a 5-volt reference voltage to the steering wheel switch and monitors the voltage when a switch is pressed. The voltage varies depending upon the resistance of the specific switch pressed, indicating which switch is pressed." - Service Manual This circuit passes through the clock spring. So, one has to remove the air bag in order to troubleshoot the circuit. There may be DTCs set. So, you should scan the BCM and SASM. The trouble shooting is to measure resistance and checking for open / short circuits from the switch to the SASM. It also could be a fault in the Brake Switch deactivation function. "When the brake pedal is applied, an electrical signal from the stoplamp circuit to the PCM deactivates the system.” This is the normal deactivation. “Under increased brake pedal effort, the cruise control deactivator switch opens and removes the ground signal from the PCM input circuit releasing the throttle, immediately deactivating the system." -Service Manual Perhaps the deactivator switch is faulty and sticks when brake pedal is first pushed in. I believe the switch is called the brake pedal angle sensor and has 4 wires and 2 position angle switches.

14E02 and 15E03 apparently corrected software issues related to emissions (maybe some of the 13B07 FE tweaks presented emissions issues - just saying). Maybe they missed some stuff in 13B07 and had to adjust some of the parameters of the emissions monitors like timing, trigger temperatures, and so forth as these programs were issued in 2014 and 2015 well after the 2013 MY were first sold starting late 2012. Yes, I remember all these - must have been around 1/2 dozen trips to dealer for CSPs and recalls in the first few years of ownership - one of the reasons the C-Max got poor reliability ratings - too many trips to dealer to fix issues.

Yes, it was done. If you read 13B07, Ford has a disclaimer indicating your FE improvements will depend on how you drive. ? One would think Ford engineers would have “wrung out” all the FE they could have Initially but wait, were they using the initially wrong or even the 1st initial corrected wrong Road Load HP dyno coefficients in “tuning” the strategies? ?

The following is what Ford supposedly did with CSP 13B07 (Fuel Economy Improvement – Power Train Control Module Calibration effective through April 14,2014). I did not note any significant FE improvement from the 5 bullet points. I believe it was more hype than substance at Ford was trying to appease the “reviewers” who said the original EPA FE numbers were bogus. This CSP was issued prior to Ford lowering the EPA numbers not once but twice from the high EPA rating of 47 mpg for city, hwy, and combined. Increasing the maximum pure electric speed to 85 mph from 62 mph, allowing increased use of electric-only mode on the highway Optimizing the use of Active Grille Shutters to reduce aerodynamic drag under more driving and temperature conditions including cold weather, during air conditioner use, and when the engine coolant temperature is higher Reducing the electric fan speed as a function of coolant temperature to minimize the fan’s energy consumption Shortening engine warm-up time to enable electric-only driving and engine shutdown at stops sooner after cold starts Optimizing the climate control system to minimize use of the air conditioner compressor and reduce the energy used in cold weather operation

Here’s what a Ford dealer would do to ensure your car is up to date but you’ll likely have to pay. https://ford.oemdtc.com/1648/module-programming-and-reprogramming-procedures-ford-lincoln-mercury